The Yamuna is one of India’s most revered rivers. It is a sacred geological artery. For centuries, glacial melt and natural streams from the Himalayan highlands served as natural sources in the Yamuna basin, delivering mineral-rich water to the high-altitude terraces of Uttarakhand’s Purola and Barkot.
Today, the pulse of that artery is irregular. The nectar is parched. Consecutive snow droughts in the winters have triggered a break in the seasonal melt cycle. Without a consistent snowpack (an accumulation of snowfall in a compressed form in high altitude regions), traditional irrigation channels run low or dry in April and May—precisely when the state’s heritage lal chawal (red rice) requires its first, life-giving bath.
When the grain was awarded a Geographical Indication (GI) tag in 2023, farmers reported receiving worthy rates for their produce, and things looked hopeful. However, the increased volatility in weather patterns makes this success fragile. Not only are irrigation channels failing, farmers are observing an abrupt increase in infestation and a decrease in production. The cold chain—the natural supply of cool water that shields these heritage seeds from pests—is slowly collapsing. “In desperation, some farmers have started to rely on chemicals to protect their red rice crops, which were traditionally grown organically,” says Balveer Singh, a farmer and a retired teacher from Purola’s Kandiyal village.
What emerges is a portrait of a landscape undergoing a forced re-engineering. As the glaciers retreat and the river systems fracture, the food sovereignty of the Yamuna basin faces an irreversible degradation. This is no longer a seasonal fluctuation; it is a systemic collapse of the mountain’s architecture.















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