Dried to last

For over 200 years, Kashmiris have perfected the art of drying vegetables to survive the long, snowy winters.

December 16, 2024

Text by Shah Khursheed | In November, snow gently begins to blanket Kashmir's hills. By mid-December, winter's cold grip tightens, slowing life across the plains. Schools close for two months, surrendering to a tradition born of survival against the region's unrelenting winters. But the real test arrives with Chilai Kalan, the harshest 40 days of winter. Roads vanish beneath snow, water pipes freeze, and the air cuts like a knife. For over 200 years, Kashmiris have perfected the art of drying vegetables to survive the long, snowy winters. This practice began when snowfalls could pile up as high as six or seven feet, cutting villages off from supplies. Over time, it became not just a necessity but a cherished tradition. One example is the dandelion, known locally as Handh. Generations of women have relied on its restorative properties, especially after childbirth, to find strength during the punishing winters. In the coldest months, Handh serves as a reminder of the bond between the people and the land.

This practice began when snowfalls could pile up as high as six or seven feet, cutting villages off from supplies. Over time, it became not just a necessity but a cherished tradition.

No items found.
No items found.
01
/
12
By Dal Lake, near the Hazratbal Shrine, a vendor displays dried vegetables, including Al Hach (dried bottle gourd).
After Friday prayers at Hazratbal Dargah, the market buzzes with people buying dried red chillies, called Marcher or Sobut Marchwangun. These chillies are a key ingredient in Kashmiri cooking, especially in the famous Wazwan dishes, and are often used to make pickles that bring warmth to cold winter days.
The Al-Hachi pumpkin, a dry cultivar, isn’t just food–it’s a winter remedy. Known for its healing properties, families rely on it every year to help fend off coughs and colds, especially when cooked with chicken. Farmers put their heart into the drying process, carefully preparing the pumpkin outdoors with patience and precision. It’s a delicate craft, and a single mistake could ruin the entire batch.
A man in his 60s sells Faer'ie or fa-ri, a smoked fish dish that's a winter favourite. The preparation starts in autumn when wild grass, "narre gasse," is collected, dried, and layered with fish.
Once lit, the grass creates the smoke that gives the fish its rich, smoky flavour—a perfect treat for the cold season.
Handh (dandelion) is sold for 300–400 rupees per bundle. For Kashmiri mothers, it’s more than food—it’s a way to care for their families and ensure health during tough winters.
In East Srinagar, Saira Begum picks walnuts at the market.
Kashmiri Hoggard—sun-dried fish—is another winter staple, paired with radishes, tomatoes, lotus stems, or spinach.
Also known as Hokh Syun, it costs around 1000 to 1200 rupees per kilogram.
Knolkhol turnips (Gogi Hakh), sitting beside bright red chillies, paint a picture of Kashmir’s winter flavours.
Dried figs (anjeer) offer a touch of sweetness in the cold. Nutritious and full of flavour, they’re a winter treat many look forward to.

You might also like

See all
Is your food nutritious or only fast?
Are there heavy metals in your vegetables?
Does your food contain Microplastics?
Are your food habits disrupting the ecological balance?
Nibble right, Save the PLANET'S MIGHT!
Is your food nutritious or only fast?
Are there heavy metals in your vegetables?
Does your food contain Microplastics?
Are your food habits disrupting the ecological balance?
Nibble right, Save the PLANET'S MIGHT!