Everest's changing landscape

Traditional food takes a step back as Sherpa kitchens dish out pizzas, burgers, spaghetti and apple pies in the dizzying heights of the Everest region in Nepal.

Photographs By 

Nidhi Jamwal

August 26, 2024

Earlier this year, in the month of May, I was in northeastern Nepal in the Everest region. I was there for a 11-day trek, covering 130 kilometres from Lukla (2,860 m) to Everest Base Camp (5,364 m) and back. We stayed in several Sherpa villages in lodges run by Sherpa women who prepared dishes ranging from traditional dal-bhat (lentil-rice) and local millet preparations to pizza-burger-spaghetti! Yes, a pizza at 5,000 metres above mean sea level! The cost of food is astronomical (I paid NPR 500, or INR Rs 315 for one apple at Gorak Shep village on the way to the EBC) as all the food ingredients, including LPG cylinders, have to be transported to these high altitude villages through long distances by porters or dzo (hybrid between yak and domestic cattle) or yaks. A local woman in Khumjung village (3,790 m) told me that refilling an LPG cylinder costs them NPR 12,500. Hence, firewood is what fuels most of these Sherpa kitchens. Sadly, induction of ‘modern’ food has come with a high cost. Plastic packaging waste is growing at an alarming rate. There is no mechanism in place to process or recycle these plastics wastes in the Khumbu region. Usually, they are burnt in the open.

Sadly, induction of ‘modern’ food has come with a high cost.

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The most common meal from a Sherpa kitchen, and perhaps the most comforting for me was the dal-bhat (lentil-rice). It is served with fresh greens grown in the kitchen garden, locally cultivated potatoes and a chilli chutney, just perfect to warm you up in the freeing cold. I had two delicious meals, one in Phakding village at a height of 2,610 m, and the second at Dingboche village at 4,4,10 m. Our common joke was: “Dal-bhat power, 24 hour”!
The fluffy soft Tibetan bread, locally known as Tsampa or Sherpa bread, is made of white flour that is kneaded with some oil and sugar. It was the perfect accompaniment to a cup of tea I sipped at Dingboche village at 4,410 m.
Uwa, a traditional variety of barley, is grown by the Sherpas in the Everest region. But it is slowly fading as rice is becoming more popular. In the image you can see women harvesting Uwa growing in small patches of land in Phakding village.
There is something surreal about eating pizza, burger and spaghetti in the dizzying heights of the Sherpa villages. But they have come to stay as they pander to the palates of Western travellers who come in their hundreds.
You can find these items in the Sherpa kitchens right up to the Everest Base Camp.
Yak cheese, locally known as chhurpi/ chhurpe, is one of the hardest cheeses in the world. Packed with protein, it has a smoky flavour. The trick is to keep it in your mouth and chew on it till it gradually becomes softer, providing energy on the way.
Chhurpi is made from the milk produced by chauri – a cross between a male yak and a female cow. In the image you can see a Sherpa woman selling chhurpi on the way to the Everest Base Camp.
What they lack in resources they make up in hospitality. Sherpas serve freshly cooked food and you can ask for any number of helpings if you are having the thali. These kitchens are run by the local Sherpa women. This is a Sherpa kitchen in Thamsherku Lodge, Kyangjuma village (3,550 m).
Dish-type parabolic solar cookers are slowly becoming popular in the Sherpa villages, which is cutting down the use of firewood. Here, a guest house owner is boiling water in a kettle in a parabolic solar cooker in Lobuche village (4,940 m).
The Everest region in Nepal now has fancy coffee shops no different from those in posh big cities. This Himalayan Sherpa Coffee house is on the way from Lukla to Monjo village.
As packaged food items such as chips and bottled drinking water have become popular in the Everest region, non-biodegradable waste is on the rise. The region has no facilities to process or safely dispose of such wastes. Majority of it is burnt in the open. ‘Carry Me Back’ is a special campaign that urges trekkers to carry back these 1-kg bags of dry waste down till Lukla from where it gets transported for proper disposal.

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Is your food nutritious or only fast?
Are there heavy metals in your vegetables?
Does your food contain Microplastics?
Are your food habits disrupting the ecological balance?
Nibble right, Save the PLANET'S MIGHT!