Thank you! Your submission has been received!
Oops! Something went wrong while submitting the form.
Total 0 feature articles
Ananyo Chatterjee
|
August 27, 2024
|
3
min read

The bitter truth behind artificial sweeteners

Doesn't taste much like sugar, and its safety remains uncertain.

Sugar is a common ingredient in many Indian dishes, but it has long been criticised for its negative impact on health. Consuming excessive amounts of sugar can cause dental decay, weight gain, increased risk of diabetes, and heart disease. 

Unfortunately, popular fast-food chains and cold drink brands often incorporate sugar in their products, making it difficult to avoid this harmful ingredient.

Potato chips, tea, coffee, sweets, and many Indian dishes often contain added sugar, which can be unhealthy in large quantities. However, the prospect of giving up sweets may not be very appealing to the average consumer. Hence, many are turning to artificial sweeteners, which offer the sweetness without the negative effects. These sweeteners are made from plant extracts or chemicals and can be found in many sugar-free products.

But what are these artificial sweeteners? How did we discover them? What are they made of? Are they entirely safe? Let’s find out.

"Table sugar, also known as sucrose, is high in calories but low in nutritional value. Natural sugars found in fruits and vegetables are digested slowly and provide a steady source of energy, which is generally considered healthy. But when sugar is added to food and drinks as a sweetener or preservative, it’s probably bad news. According to the NHS, adults shouldn’t consume no more than 30 grams of added sugar per day.

Artificial sweeteners work by providing the same level of sweetness as sugar, or even more, with almost no calories. This is why they are called non-nutritive sweeteners (NNS). The Food Safety and Standards Authority of India (FSSAI) has approved the following artificial sweeteners for use in food: saccharin sodium, aspartame, acesulfame potassium, sucralose, neotame, and isomaltulose.

Oldest artificial sweetener

Saccharin is the oldest artificial sweetener on the market. It comes in granule and liquid forms and is made by chemically modifying o-toluene sulfonamide or phthalic anhydride through the process of oxidation. 

Saccharin was discovered in 1879 by Constantin Fahlberg at Johns Hopkins University, Baltimore, while he was experimenting with benzoic sulfimide. The discovery was allegedly accidental, as Fahlberg noticed a sweet taste on his hand and named the compound after this observation. Fahlberg and his colleague Ira Remsen later developed a way to synthesise saccharin from o-sulfamoylbenzoic acid.

Saccharin is about four to five hundred times sweeter than table sugar, and hence required in far smaller quantities to do its job. This high sweetness and stability, as well as its long shelf life, make it an ideal choice for food manufacturers. Common applications include sugar-free sodas, candies, jams, jellies, and cookies.

According to the US Food and Drug Administration (FDA), the acceptable daily intake (ADI) of sodium saccharin is 5 mg per kilogram of body weight.

Are they really safe?

Artificial sweeteners, despite their widespread use, remain controversial due to concerns about their safety and benefits. While many people believe that switching to artificial sweeteners can aid weight loss, scientific evidence is inconclusive. The World Health Organization (WHO) does not recommend their use for weight loss, noting little to no reduction in body fat based on a 2022 review. Instead of relying on artificial sweeteners, it might be better to incorporate more nutrient-rich fruits and non-sweetened foods into one's diet.

A review published in the Indian Journal of Pharmacology highlights a lack of randomised controlled studies assessing the efficacy of artificial sweeteners across various population groups.  Observational studies yield inconsistent and contradictory findings.  Moreover, consumers are generally unaware of the potential dangers associated with the use of artificial sweeteners.

Aspartame, an ester derived from the amino acids L-aspartic acid and L-phenylalanine, is a good case in point. This dipeptide is combined with methanol to form the compound aspartame, which is around 200 times sweeter than sugar. Aspartame is extensively used in various food and beverage products and is generally considered safe for human consumption.

However, some potential risks have been identified.

The International Agency for Research on Cancer (IARC) has classified aspartame as ‘possibly carcinogenic to humans’, although the evidence is limited.

The Joint FAO/WHO Expert Committee on Food Additives has established the acceptable daily intake (ADI) of aspartame at 40 mg per kg of body weight. However, more research is needed to better understand the possible mechanisms by which aspartame may cause cancer.

Some research suggests that aspartame may pose a risk for people with Type-2 Diabetes. This is because it can increase cortisol levels in the body, potentially leading to weight gain and insulin resistance.

The widespread marketing and government approval of artificial sweeteners have contributed to their widespread use. However, due to the limited evidence of their benefits and potential health risks, consumers, particularly those with diabetes, need to exercise caution when consuming these products.

Sneha Mahale
|
August 26, 2024
|
5
min read

Heatwaves cast shadow on India's food future

Unusually high temperatures in the second fortnight of February and March were responsible for the low crop yields.

Bhupen Singh, a farmer in Punjab's Bathinda district, witnessed his wheat harvest shrivel in 2022 due to unusual heat, peaking at a scorching 44.1°C during critical growing months. “Unusually high temperatures in the second fortnight of February and March were responsible for the low crop yields. It affected the wheat during its critical milking stage, resulting in smaller grains. Crops also experienced browning, premature maturation and shrivelled grains. Farmers, like me, suffered heavy losses,” said Singh.

According to the Indian Council of Agricultural Research (ICAR), average wheat yields in the district plummeted from 58.2q/ha in 2021 to just 41.6q/ha in 2022. Heatwaves in 2023 and 2024 have also affected wheat crop yields in the region, although specific data on the losses is not yet available.

Scientists project that a temperature increase of 2.5 to 4.9°C across India could lead to a decrease of 41%-52% in wheat yield. (Source: Yann Forget via Wikimedia Commons)

The heat is on

Our planet's temperature has been steadily rising. Since 1880, Earth's temperature has been rising by 0.08°C per decade. But since 1981, it's more than doubled to 0.18°C per decade. Globally, hot days are increasing while cold days are declining. Research published in Science Advances shows that heatwaves are becoming longer and slower, particularly in North America and Eurasia. From 1979-1983, the world averaged about 75 heatwave events. Fast forward to 2016-2020, and the number had increased to 98.

While a warmer planet poses severe health risks for humans, it also significantly impacts agricultural output. For India, home to over 1.4 billion people and ranked 111 out of 125 countries in the Global Hunger Index, this presents a serious problem.

Most India Meteorological Department (IMD) stations have recorded an increase in heatwave events from 1961 to 2020. This summer, the country faced its third consecutive year of severe heatwaves, with temperatures in northern India crossing 50°C. What's even more concerning is the trend of these heatwaves starting earlier, lasting longer, and affecting larger areas – a troubling shift from historical climate patterns.

Fields of fire

Studies project a temperature increase of 2.5 to 4.9°C across India, potentially leading to a decrease of 41%-52% in wheat yield and 32%-40% in rice production. This decline extends to most cereals, particularly in the Indo-Gangetic plains, where rising temperatures and reduced water availability are expected. Modelling approaches suggest a substantial loss in crop production, ranging from 10% to 40% by 2100.

High temperatures could impact water-intensive crops such as rice, making their cultivation increasingly challenging. (Source: Subhrajyoti via Wikimedia Commons)

“Some crops, vegetables, and fruits are more susceptible than others, depending on their genetic quality and agro-ecological needs,” said Anjani Kumar, senior research fellow at the International Food Policy Research Institute-South Asia.

Rain-fed crops: Crops, including sorghum, jowar, ragi, bajra, oilseeds, and vegetables, are particularly susceptible to longer dry spells, erratic rainfall patterns, and extreme heavy rain events. "These conditions could lead to lower yields per hectare or even crop failure, with a higher risk of pest infestations due to rising temperatures," said Shrinivas Badiger, PhD fellow at the Centre for Environment and Development, Ashoka Trust for Research in Ecology and the Environment.

Groundwater-irrigated crops: A warming climate accelerates groundwater depletion, threatening crops reliant on irrigation. "Higher temperatures elevate the water demand for evapotranspiration," said Badiger. "If this requirement isn't met, it will adversely affect yields even in irrigated regions." This could significantly impact water-intensive crops like sugarcane, rice, cotton, and wheat, making their cultivation increasingly challenging.

Quality matters

A 2019 United Nations report highlights the negative impact of climate change on staple crops, vital for global nutrition. While elevated CO2 levels may make vegetables like lettuce and tomatoes sweeter and increase yields, it comes at a cost. Studies show a decrease of 10 to 20% in protein, nitrate, magnesium, iron, and zinc content. Plants may lose up to 8% of their mineral content in these carbon-rich environments.

While elevated CO2 levels may make vegetables like lettuce and tomatoes sweeter and increase yields, it comes at a cost. Studies show a decrease of 10 to 20% in protein, nitrate, magnesium, iron, and zinc content. Plants may lose up to 8% of their mineral content in these carbon-rich environments.

This translates to a rise in hidden hunger, a condition where people experience undernutrition due to a lack of essential nutrients despite consuming enough calories. A policy note from the Gender, Climate Change, and Nutrition Integration Initiative predicts 138 million more people could be at risk of zinc deficiency and 148 million more at risk of protein deficiency globally by 2050.

The most vulnerable regions include South Asia, Southeast Asia, China, the Middle East and North Africa, where many are already near nutritional deficiency and rely heavily on wheat and rice. In India alone, an estimated 53 million people could become newly protein-deficient, and 48 million could become zinc-deficient under higher CO2 levels.

“The precise impact of heatwaves varies according to the type of crop, soil conditions, and the local climate. So, more comprehensive research is required to fully understand and verify these effects and their implications for food security and dietary quality,” said Suvarna Sawant, chief dietician and HOD, clinical nutrition & dietetics, Nanavati Max Super Speciality Hospital, Mumbai.

Coping strategies

Climate change demands a shift in dietary patterns, but the strategies differ across regions. In the West, reducing meat consumption is a major focus. However, meat and eggs remain essential protein sources in India, where consumption is already relatively low and these foods contribute significantly to meeting nutritional targets.

Substituting scarce items with readily available ones is another option, but challenges exist. No two foods are nutritionally identical, and even similar options can differ in calories, protein, and micronutrients.“For example, replacing whole grains with refined grains significantly reduces fibre and nutrient intake, while shifting from animal protein to plant-based alternatives requires careful consideration to balance amino acids and vitamins," said Sawant.

Here's where consumers can play a key role:

Reduce food waste: Globally, 931 million tonnes of food are wasted annually, contributing to 8-10% of carbon emissions. Reducing food waste lowers demand and mitigates further warming.

Prioritise fresh produce: Fresh, seasonal produce offers higher nutrient levels and fewer additives compared to processed foods.

Meanwhile, scientists and policymakers are working on equipping farmers with tools to manage losses:

Climate-resilient crops: Genome editing is making strides towards creating heat-resistant, nutritious crops. In 2021, Prime Minister Narendra Modi introduced 35 such varieties developed by ICAR, including drought-tolerant chickpeas and biofortified wheat, pearl millet, and maize. Biofortification is a process that increases the nutrient density of crops.

Weather information and agronomic practices: The IMD's Gramin Krishi Mausam Sewa scheme provides farmers with crucial weather and crop information to optimise production. "Farmers can adapt by diversifying crops, using resilient seed varieties, and modifying planting and irrigation practices," said Kumar.

Rising temperatures result in mango flower drop and lots of jhumka problems. (Source: Yann via Wikimedia Commons)

For instance, in Uttar Pradesh this year, a 5°C rise in temperature resulted in mango flower drop and lots of jhumka problems in the fruit due to poor pollination. “To mitigate losses, we implemented ICAR-Central Citrus Research Institute (CCRI) and ICAR-Central Institute for Subtropical Horticulture’s advisories to initiate drip irrigation with organic mulching. Certain fungicides, such as copper oxychloride, were also recommended to control fruit infections that spike in rising temperatures,” said Uday Singh, a farmer in the Ayodhya district, where mangoes and guavas are the primary fruits grown.

The road ahead

There's no doubt that our planet is getting warmer, and heatwaves will only intensify. Only through informed, collaborative efforts at the community level and through government-led initiatives can India develop resilient food systems. Ongoing research and data collection can provide valuable insights, guiding effective interventions and policies aimed at preventing malnutrition, sustaining yields, and promoting overall health and well-being.

Maneesh
|
August 2, 2024
|
3
min read

Why common infections could become killers again

Antimicrobial resistance is making infections tougher to treat

Antimicrobial resistance, or AMR, is a fast-evolving threat to global health systems. According to the World Health Organization (WHO), AMR occurs when bacteria, viruses, fungi, and parasites no longer respond to antimicrobial medicines as they develop drug resistance.

In many wealthy countries, doctors frequently prescribe antimicrobials even when they aren't necessary, according to a paper published in the United States National Center for Biotechnology Information. Meanwhile, in developing nations like India, these drugs are often readily available over the counter, leading to rampant misuse.

A study in The Lancet Regional Health — Southeast Asia highlighted India's high consumption of broad-spectrum antibiotics, which should be used sparingly due to their wide-ranging effects. The journal JAC—Antimicrobial Resistance reported that antibiotic misuse varies significantly across India, with poorer states showing lower rates of consumption, likely due to limited access rather than prudent use. This misuse breeds superbugs—pathogens armed with resistance genes that render treatments ineffective. As a result, common infections become increasingly difficult, if not impossible, to treat.

According to a report published by the Indian Council of Medical Research, a big chunk of patients in India may no longer benefit from carbapenem, a powerful antibiotic used in critical care settings to treat pneumonia and septicemia. The resistance isn't limited to bacteria. Fungal pathogens like C. parapsilosis and C. glabrata are showing increasing resistance to common antifungal medicines such as fluconazole.

Unfolding catastrophe

In 2019 alone, drug-resistant infections claimed 1.27 million lives globally. The United Nations warns that by 2050, this number could soar to a staggering 10 million annual deaths. 

According to an article in the United States Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC), antimicrobial-resistant infections that require the use of second- and third-line treatments can harm patients by causing serious side effects, such as organ failure, and prolonged care and recovery, sometimes for months.

The article further says that resistance also comes in the way of a person’s ability to fight infections using antibiotics during treatments/procedures, including joint replacements, organ transplants, cancer therapy, and chronic diseases like diabetes, asthma, and rheumatoid arthritis. 

According to the United Nations Environment Programme (UNEP), AMR could shave off USD 3.4 trillion from global annual GDP and push 24 million more people into extreme poverty in the next decade. The UNEP also warns that by 2050, up to 10 million deaths could occur annually due to drug-resistant infections globally. 

Beyond human health

The misuse of antimicrobials extends beyond humans, affecting food-producing animals and aquaculture. The widespread use of these drugs to promote growth and prevent disease has led to resistant bacterial strains that can spread to humans through direct contact, consumption, or the environment.

While AMR drivers are universal, its impact is disproportionately severe in low- and middle-income countries, as noted by the WHO. Here, the overuse of non-prescribed drugs is more prevalent, exacerbating existing inequalities as healthcare costs rise and agricultural productivity falls.

Charting a new course

Recognising the gravity of AMR, scientists and policymakers advocate for a multi-faceted approach. Improved surveillance is crucial, as highlighted by the United States Library of Medicine. Gaps in data on key microbes hinder our understanding of AMR trends, making it essential to establish standardised methods and definitions for tracking resistance.

Hospitals must improve infection control measures, while public education campaigns can help curb antimicrobial misuse. The Federation of European Microbiological Societies (FEMS) suggests that effective public awareness campaigns could cut antimicrobial prescriptions by 36%.

In agriculture, reducing antimicrobial use in livestock and developing new drugs to combat superbugs is imperative. The UNEP emphasises the environment's role in AMR's evolution and spread, advocating for a 'One Health' approach that recognises the interconnectedness of humans, animals, plants, and ecosystems.

A call to action

For the 'One Health' strategy to succeed, global organisations and governments must prioritise AMR as an international concern. The time has come to place this threat at the forefront of the global political agenda, acknowledging that addressing AMR is not just a scientific or medical issue but a societal imperative that demands coordinated action from all sectors. Only by acting decisively can we hope to avert the looming health crisis and safeguard future generations from the devastating impact of drug-resistant infections.

Puja Bhattacharjee
|
July 16, 2024
|
6
min read

The rise and fall of India's Tilapia dream

The journey of Tilapia from miracle fish to ecological menace in Indian waters

Before becoming an aquaculture consultant and probiotic shrimp supplier, Apuchand Eluri farmed fish for 15 years on his 130-acre farm in Khammam district, Telangana. Today, an uninvited guest threatens to upend his livelihood.

"Tilapia feed much faster than the Carp because there are more of them, and they are very active feeders. They have robust spines on their fins, which prevent other fish from attacking them and eating the feed. They're more dominating and territorial. They eat the feed first, and the other cultured fish eat the rest," he said.

Tilapia, once hailed as a potential solution to global food security, has become both a blessing and a curse for Indian fish farmers and ecosystems alike.

A fish with a mission

In 1988, WorldFish and its partners started the Genetic Improvement of Farmed Tilapia (GIFT) project to develop a faster-growing strain of Nile Tilapia fit for small-scale and commercial aquaculture. According to the Consortium of International Agricultural Research Centers (CGIAR), GIFT has since become a lifeline for small-scale farmers, providing a sustainable source of income, food, and nutrition while helping them adapt to climate change.

(Source: Wikimedia Commons)

A 2022 study by WorldFish and the Confederation of Indian Industry (CII) revealed a growing interest in Tilapia farming across India's eastern, western, and southern states. This trend is driven by rising prices of Carp and sea catch. India's current Tilapia production stands at approximately 70,000 metric tons, with 30,000 metric tons from aquaculture and 40,000 metric tons from wild catches.

The CII study projects India's Tilapia market to grow to over 0.766 million metric tons by 2027 and exceed 2.155 million metric tons by 2032. This aquatic chicken, as it's sometimes called, could significantly boost India's ambitious fish export goals.

Farmer’s dilemma

Globally, Tilapia farming has grown much faster than the aquaculture sector and other farmed aquatic species categories over the last twenty years. But In Andhra Pradesh, India's aquaculture hub, the Tilapia boom feels more like a bust. 

“Carps fetch anywhere between Rs 80 to Rs 100 per kg. But Tilapias fetch around Rs 10 to Rs 20 per kg, but their feed costs as much as the Carp. In Kerala, a fish called pearl spot or Etroplus, a close cousin of Tilapia, fetches almost 300 to 450 rupees per kg because of its taste,” said Eluri.

Eluri suffered significant losses due to the Tilapia invasion. To cut losses, farmers like Eluri have become creative, using dried and pulverised Tilapia as fish feed and soil fertiliser or selling it to Sea Bass farms. 

Getting rid of Tilapia also proves challenging. “The bigger fish are caught in the nets; however, mid-sized and small fish hide in the soil at the uneven pond bottom. Even if the pond is dried, there will be some eggs or small fish in the slush. They start multiplying once the water fills the pond," he said. 

India has a diverse palate. Proper planning is needed because a single species or strategy across the country may not be effective.

KK Vijayan, Former Director of the Central Institute of Brackishwater Aquaculture (ICAR-CIBA) Chennai and Former Head of the Marine Biotech Division, ICAR-CMFRI, Kochi, said Tilapia is not a one-size-fits-all solution. "India has a diverse palate. Proper planning is needed because a single species or strategy across the country may not be effective,” he said.

Tilapia that grows in brackish water are tastier and have more nutritional value as their bodies release a burst of antioxidants to counteract the salinity stress, he added.

(Source: Wikimedia Commons)

Growing problem

A 2021 study found the Mozambique Tilapia to be the most extensively distributed invasive fish in the region. In just two years, their population in the Yamuna River jumped from a fraction to 3.5% of total fish species. In Rajasthan's Jaisamand Lake, they've reduced the average weight of major Carp and threatened endangered Mahseers. Tilapias have infiltrated biodiversity hotspots like the Andaman Islands and the Western Ghats and are thriving in the marine environment in Palk Bay, Tamil Nadu.

According to Smrithy Raj, a postdoctoral fellow at the University of Kerala and one of the study's authors, the Western Ghats contain more than 300 species of freshwater fish, of which nearly 70% are endemic. Roughly one-third are threatened by flow regulation, pollution, invasive species, climate change, and overexploitation.

“And among these, biological invasion is the most rapid and widespread. When there are a lot of new invasive species coming in, there is a higher chance that some species in the wild will die out,” he said. Raj said the number of non-native exotic species in the Western Ghats has doubled after the floods.

“Earlier, only the Mozambique Tilapia variety was found, but at present, Nile Tilapia has become dominant in the water bodies. They compete with native fish species for food and shelter. The Pearlspot Cichlid (Etroplus suratensis), Kerala's state fish, is at high risk due to the invasion of Tilapia, as both species share a similar niche,” he added.

Tilapia farming also has its own set of challenges.

An expert from the Indian Council of Agricultural Research (ICAR) said Tilapia can meet the protein demand and is very easy to grow, which is why it is being promoted worldwide. However, the highly contagious Tilapia Lake virus, which causes sudden mortality in Tilapia, is a cause for concern.

According to Vijayan, to achieve a blue revolution, the government should focus on various fish species instead of a single species. “Tilapia has its market niche, depending on various factors. We could take a holistic approach based on consumption patterns. Understanding these consumption patterns and marketing strategies is crucial,” he said.

Meanwhile, Eluri said the government intervention is unwieldy.

“Mozambique Tilapia is a wild species, but the government is promoting the genetically modified variety (GIFT), which grows to a larger size. However, because the Mozambique Tilapia has been around for decades, people have developed an aversion towards the fish. As a result, even if farmers want to culture GIFT, there are no buyers.” he said.

In the end, the Tilapia dilemma is more than just a question of fish farming—it's a test of our ability to balance progress with preservation, innovation with tradition, and short-term gains with long-term sustainability. 

Ananyo Chatterjee
|
July 12, 2024
|
3
min read

What’s really in your street food?

Find out which street foods might be dangerous and how to stay safe

In India, street food is more than just food; it’s an adventure. Whether you’re looking for a quick bite or an excuse to hang out with friends, these food stalls have you covered. 

The famous Khau Gallis of Aamchi Mumbai are packed with hungry office workers and students ready to dive into a feast of pani puri, momos, and shawarmas. Meanwhile, Manek Chowk in Ahmedabad undergoes a nightly transformation from a bustling jewellery market to a food paradise, where scores of workers grate cheese with mechanical dedication, infusing it into everything from sandwiches to 'gotala' dosas. In Namma Bengaluru, the famous Rameshwaram Café takes pride in injecting its offerings with heart-stopping quantities of ghee. 

The smells, the flavours, the sheer joy of eating something delicious right off the cart is what makes street food so irresistible. But beneath all that flavour, these snacks often conceal serious public health risks. Recent studies have given us more reasons to pause and reconsider our love for these quick bites.

{{marquee}}

Hidden dangers

Recent sampling in Karnataka found cancer-causing chemicals used as food colouring in many pani puri samples. Colours like sunset yellow, brilliant blue, and carmoisine, found in 19 out of 49 tested samples in Bengaluru, have raised health concerns. Officials are considering bans on these additives, but pani puri has long been a concern due to the water used, which is often contaminated and of uncertain origin.  And it's not just pani puri. Kebabs were previously under scrutiny for artificial coloring use, while rhodamine-B, a dye found in Gobi Manchurian and cotton candy, caused health scares earlier this year. Shawarmas have also been flagged for safety concerns. A survey by the Food Safety and Standards Authority of India (FSSAI) across 10 districts in Karnataka revealed that 8 out of 17 samples contained harmful bacteria and yeast, which could cause severe illnesses like diarrhea, food poisoning, and pneumonia.

While many are aware of the risks associated with street food, the severity is often underestimated. Contaminants are not always visible, and one frequent yet overlooked danger is the use of newspapers to wrap food.  Ink from newspapers can leach bioactive elements into food, posing serious health risks. If the newspaper is made from recycled paper, there’s the additional danger of metal contaminants and other harmful chemicals.

And then there is hygiene, a question almost entirely ignored in India’s street food culture.  A 2023 study in Kolkata found that only a quarter of food vendors covered their food after preparation, leaving it vulnerable to airborne contaminants. Almost half reused leftovers from the previous day, increasing the risk of infection and foodborne illnesses.

Be street smart

While government authorities strive to regulate and enforce bans on harmful substances in street foods, these measures take time and are not always consistently applied. As consumers, it's essential to exercise caution. When indulging in street food, consider asking vendors about their water sources, consulting locals for trusted stalls, and opting for fried foods to minimize risk.

Alternatively, there are plenty of healthy snack options to enjoy. A mixed bowl of nuts like almonds, pistachios, cashews, and peanuts offers healthy fats, protein, and fiber without the risk of illness. Dark chocolate, rich in antioxidants, is another tasty choice. Fresh fruits also make a satisfying and nutritious addition to your snack repertoire.

Shreyas S Kumar
|
July 4, 2024
|
4
min read

Is a world without farmers possible?

Masanobu Fukuoka believed humanity's essence is rooted in plant life.

Farming has been a key part of human life for thousands of years, but things are changing. The number of farmers worldwide has dropped from 1 billion in 2000 to 866 million in 2021 - a 13.4% decrease.

(Source: FAO)

Some economists even argue that a world without agriculture could be feasible if developing countries adopt the model set by developed countries, where the share of employment in agriculture is minimal. Land consolidation and technological advances could maintain or even increase production with fewer farmers, freeing smallholders to pursue more lucrative urban careers.

However, this radical idea has some problems. Modern farming methods, including those from the Green Revolution, contribute a lot to global warming. Also, as the world's population grows (expected to reach 9.8 billion by 2050), we'll need more food and more land to grow it on. Some estimates suggest we'll need an additional landmass twice the size of India to feed the growing population. 

The great and characteristic problem of industrial agriculture is that it does not distinguish one place from another.

The Midwest of the United States shows what large-scale industrial farming looks like. You see huge fields growing just one type of crop, usually corn or soybeans. This approach has removed much of the natural variety of plants and animals that used to exist in these areas. Wendell Berry, a writer and environmental activist, says this makes all the fields look the same. He also points out that modern tractors separate farmers from direct contact with nature.

Then there is genetically modified (GM) food. Unlike traditional farming methods that rely on natural crossbreeding and selection, GM technology allows scientists to introduce new traits into organisms faster and more precisely. This could lead to crops that are resistant to pests, more nutritious, or grow faster. Some people believe GM foods can help increase food production and reduce the need for harmful chemicals, but others are concerned about the effects on our health and the environment.

<spanclass = 'display-text pretty text-color-dark-green'>As farming becomes more focused on technology and large farms, it's losing its sense of community. In the past, farming was not just a job but a way of life that connected people to their neighbours and the land.</span>

Impact

Farming has been central to human existence since the agricultural revolution about 10,000 years ago. Peter C. Timmer, Professor emeritus of Development studies at Harvard, highlighted the role agriculture has played in lifting populations out of poverty: Historically, almost all poverty alleviation schemes are intractably linked to a “successful structural transformation” in agriculture, which leads to higher productivity rates and increasing wages which then expunge ‘absolute poverty’. Timmer said agriculture has set the economic gears in motion.

However, as economies grow, they usually become less dependent on agriculture. Based on the assumption that food spending remains relatively constant even with an increase in income, a low-income family would spend the majority of their income (e.g., 70%) on food, and as their income increases, this percentage would decrease. Consider India, where agriculture's contribution to GDP hovers around 17.59%—far above the global average of 4.32% (as of 2022). Yet 65% of Indians still depend on agriculture for their livelihood. This mismatch between economic output and employment exposes deeper structural fault lines.

Globally, the three biggest agricultural producers are India, China, and the USA. China and the USA have mostly switched to machine-based farming, showing the trend towards industrialisation.

Risks

Masanobu Fukuoka, the influential Japanese farmer and philosopher, believed humanity's essence is rooted in plant life. He argued that nature tends towards balance and harmony, ensuring equilibrium among all living things. Any disruption to this balance, he warned, could lead to ecological crises and human alienation.

Masanobu Fukuoka (Source: Designer AI)

Fukuoka's "do-nothing" philosophy of farming advocates for minimal intervention in natural processes. The approach stands in stark contrast to the intensive methods of industrial agriculture, raising important questions about sustainability and our relationship with nature. The potential consequences of a world with fewer farmers are far-reaching:

Spiritual and psychological impact: Through a Fukuokan lens, severing our connection to nature through farming could lead to spiritual alienation. This isn't just a philosophical speculation. Harvard Health Publishing reports that spending time in nature significantly reduces cortisol levels, a key stress hormone. Another study found an almost proportional decrease in stress levels as people visited areas with increasing greenery.

Environmental effects: If farms become too large, it might make sustainable farming practices nearly impossible. If we focus only on producing as much food as possible, we could destroy much of the natural variety of plants and animals in favour of crops that make money. This would break a 10,000-year-old connection between humans and nature, likely causing many unexpected problems. Experts agree that we need a new, more sustainable approach to farming that considers more than just production.

Economic impact on developing countries: In poorer countries, improving agriculture is often necessary before the wider economy can grow. The idea of combining small farms into larger ones, which might work in richer countries, is much harder to do in poorer nations where there are many small farmers with tiny plots of land. Ironically, to move away from agriculture, these countries first need to make their farming more effective. 

Food producers of the world (Source: https://cgspace.cgiar.org/items/a248e930-9cbf-4b83-997d-d588b1aec81e)

Farming 2.0

With the world's population growing and the need for food increasing, encouraging small farmers could be the way forward - making farming a viable career while connecting it to the wider market. It could also address the ageing farmer population, potentially attracting younger generations to the profession. However, any efforts to encourage farming must also consider environmental concerns.

Simply moving people away from farming by promoting urban or industrial jobs can cause problems. A sudden increase in people looking for work in cities could lead to lower wages and overcrowded urban areas, which could slow down economic growth.

Instead of abandoning small farmers, we should find ways to help them use modern technology and sustainable practices such as precision farming techniques for small plots, methods that increase biodiversity, and better access to markets through digital platforms.

Our relationship with the land isn't just about producing food. It's about maintaining our connection to nature, preserving the variety of plant and animal life, and ensuring the health of our planet for future generations. The future of farming isn't about getting rid of it, but about changing it for the better. By supporting small farmers and giving them the tools to succeed in a changing world, we can work towards a more sustainable planet.

Rashi Goel
|
July 3, 2024
|
6
min read

India's national vegetable is conquering kitchens and culture

Pumpkins thrive in tough conditions and require minimal pesticides

The humble pumpkin, now India's national vegetable, has quietly awaited its moment in the sun. In Chhattisgarh, it's revered as the eldest son, and cutting one can be seen as akin to sacrificing a child. Here, tradition dictates that a male family member first cuts the pumpkin in half before passing it to the women for further preparation. In North India, particularly West Bengal and northeastern states, pumpkins have replaced animal sacrifices in religious ceremonies, much to animal lovers' delight.

In South India, a white pumpkin is hung outside homes to absorb evil and negative energies. Evil energies are believed to remain in the house if the pumpkin rots in less than a year. If it lasts a year, then it means the negativity has cleared. 


Many-splendoured thing

Recently,  a Goan neighbour saw the pumpkin vines overflowing from my terrace and remarked on how the beautiful yellow flowers taste so good when batter-fried. The next day, a domestic help saw the same vines cascading to the floors below and commented on how they often cook the young leaves into a stew in her village, Sirsi, in Karnataka. A couple of days later, Jaywant Chowgule, a farmer who runs a farm and experiments with growing various plants, offered me some pumpkin mousse when I visited his farm in Goa. These encounters sparked a rediscovery of the pumpkin's abundance - every part edible, from fruit to seeds, flowers to leaves, and even tender stems.

In Bihar, pumpkin leaves and stems are batter-fried to make pakodas (fritters). Further south in Goa, pumpkin leaves are made into 'Dudyachya Paanachi Bhaji', which translates to a “dish made with pumpkin leaves''. Across India, pumpkins have found their place in many regional cuisines.

Bengalis love the entire plant. Flowers are batter-fried to make ‘PhoolerBoro’, leaves into a chutney named ‘Kumro Patar Vorta’ and young stalks are used in curries. Owing to its growing popularity, Chef Dibyendu Roy of Taj Fort Aguada, Goa, has arranged for his team to grow pumpkins in the hotel’s rather large kitchen garden area. A popular vegetable in West Bengal, the pumpkin leaves and stems are thrown into a pan to create a Chachari - a mish-mash of several vegetables.

Odiyas, too, have discovered the versatility and taste of pumpkins. They relish the plant in its entirety - they use the pumpkin, called Kakharu in Odiya, and its stem, called Danka, in a dish similar to Chachari, called the ‘Kakharu Danka Batibasa Chadchadi’.

 “All the ingredients are mixed up in a bowl known as Bati and cooked on extremely low heat. This Batibasa technique is still practised in many rural households who cook their food on Chullahs,” said Odiya chef Rachit Keertiman. The women would slow-cook the dish on the dying embers of the challah. “This is a very healthy form of cooking a dish,” he added. Slow cooking on low heat retains the nutrients in the food.

Pumpkin vines are a common sight in Odisha's kitchen gardens. Its fruit is the primary ingredient in ‘Dalma’, a dish associated with frugality in the past. The flower adds texture to dishes, while the leaves are perfect for chutneys. “We teach hotel management students nose-to-tail menus or, in the case of pumpkin - fruit to root, where we use absolutely every part of the plant,” said Keertiman.

With its versatility, an entire menu - from starters to desserts - can be curated with pumpkin plants. The flowers have an earthy flavour, while the stems and leaves are nutritious. The fleshy fruit can be made sweet or savoury. 

In West Bengal, pumpkin seeds are combined with jaggery and sesame to make a delectable evening snack, said Chef Dibyendu Roy. World over, roasted pumpkin seeds are great as a snack and make a healthy addition to smoothies and cereal mixes. And, of course, in the US, around Halloween, pumpkins are the flavour of the season and make their way into all possible foods and beverages - the famous ‘pumpkin spice latte’ is only one of them. 

Medicinal benefits

Pumpkins boasts medicinal properties, potentially protecting against peptic ulcers and offering a wealth of vitamins (A, B, C, and E).Research suggests that pumpkin seeds and pulp may even benefit the liver and promote healthy cholesterol levels in rats.This diverse nutritional profile has captured the attention of scientists, with traditional medicine systems also recognising its potential.

Global research dubs the pumpkin a crop likely to mitigate food challenges in the future. “Although undervalued, pumpkin is a valuable vegetable herbaceous plant that contributes to global food and nutritional security,” according to  MDPI. A hardy crop, pumpkin is relatively easy to grow even in water-scarce regions and does not require a lot of pesticides and external intervention. 

Kashiphal, the Indian name for Pumpkin, is a multifunctional crop for both humans and animals and could be a potential solution for food and livelihood. From rural kitchens to five-star hotels, this adaptable vegetable is reshaping India's culinary landscape while offering solutions to agricultural challenges.

Tasmia Ansari
|
July 1, 2024
|
5
min read

The hidden backbone of India's agriculture

The story is one of resilience in the face of systemic neglect

The first Indian colour film, released in 1938, was Kisan Kanya (Farmer's Daughter). Today, despite nearly 85% of rural Indian women working in agriculture, their contributions are often overlooked. The image of the Indian farmer—a man in a dhoti kurta, standing defiantly against a barren landscape—has become an icon of agrarian struggle. But this portrait is incomplete.

P Sainath, a veteran journalist who has chronicled rural India for decades, captures this disparity in his documentary, Nero's Guest. In its opening scenes, Sainath examines photographs of farmers who have taken their own lives. He pauses on the image of Sudha Mani, a woman cradling a child. Sudha's mother had died by suicide. Yet Sudha was deemed ineligible for compensation. In the eyes of society and law, her mother was not a farmer but just a farmer's wife.

(Source: Nero's Guest/YouTube)

"I wish I had a memory of my mother when she was not working," Sudha said. "When I slept, she was working; when I woke up, she was working." This relentless toil is the reality for millions of women across India's agricultural heartland.

According to Annual Periodic Labour Force Survey, 2021-2022, agriculture has the highest estimated female labour force participation at 62.9%. Yet, these women are rarely recognised as farmers in their own right, instead labelled as mere labourers on land they often help cultivate.

Men, money and migration

The Economic Survey of 2017-18 emphasised the need for an 'inclusive transformative agricultural policy' with targeted gender-specific interventions and proposed strategies to boost productivity on small farms, integrate women into rural development and involve both genders in extension services. The survey mentioned allocating at least 30% of budgets across ongoing schemes and development activities to women beneficiaries. The government also pledged to support women through self-help groups (SHGs), facilitating micro-credit access and ensuring representation in decision-making bodies.

Despite these recommendations, a significant gender gap persists in agricultural support programs. Take, for example, the Pradhan Mantri Kisan Samman Nidhi scheme, which provides Indian farmers 6,000 annually as minimum income support. In June, PM Narendra Modi released the “17th instalment amounting to nearly 20,000 crore that will benefit around 9.3 crore farmers.” The delayed funds, released as a bonanza, drew criticism from the opposition. In November 2023, the overall figure of the scheme’s beneficiaries stood at 8.12 crore, of which 6.27 crore or 77.33 percent were men and only 1.83 crore or 22.64 percent, highlighting a stark gender disparity.

(Source: Flickr

The feminisation of Indian agriculture is, paradoxically, a byproduct of its challenges. As climate change renders farming increasingly unpredictable and chemical fertilisers drive up costs, men are migrating to cities in search of more stable incomes. Women, left behind, shoulder the double burden of agricultural labour and domestic responsibilities.

Mounting challenges 

Indian women have limited access to resources crucial for agricultural stability, such as land, water, credit, technology, and training. To make ends meet, these workers often overexert themselves, leading to various problems.

In Beed, Maharashtra, economic distress has led to a disturbing trend. More women in their twenties are undergoing hysterectomies due to exploitative sugarcane work. Lack of education and the perception that menstruation hinders work drive this dangerous practice.

(Source: Wikimedia Commons)

Further north, as temperatures soar to record highs, women from impoverished backgrounds endure the brunt of heat exposure in agricultural labour, facing severe health hazards. Rural areas often lack access to amenities such as air conditioning and health resources, leaving these women particularly vulnerable to rising temperatures.

Perhaps the most fundamental barrier facing women farmers is land ownership. In India, despite 85% of rural women engaging in agriculture, only about 13% have land ownership. Challenging male dominance in agriculture is extremely difficult since women who provide labour aren't recognised as farmers, a status tied to land ownership that most rural Indian women lack.

Kavitha Kuruganti, speaking for the Mahila Kisan Adhikaar Manch (MAKAAM), identifies this lack of land ownership as the key factor rendering female farmers invisible. Without land titles, these women remain unrecognised as farmers, perpetuating their marginalisation and leaving them vulnerable to exploitation.

Path forward

As India grapples with the challenges of feeding a growing population in an era of climate uncertainty, it can no longer afford to overlook half of its agricultural workforce. Recognizing and empowering women farmers is not just a matter of equality—it's a necessity for the nation's food security and economic stability.

The path forward requires a multipronged approach:

  1. Legal reforms to recognise women as farmers in their own right
  2. Targeted financial and educational support
  3. A cultural shift in how society views women's roles in agriculture

Only then can India truly claim to be cultivating a future where every farmer, regardless of gender, can reap what they sow.

In the end, the story of India's women farmers is one of resilience in the face of systemic neglect. It's time for their silent revolution to be heard, for their invisible labour to be seen, and for their rightful place in India's agricultural narrative to be acknowledged.

Rashi Goel
|
June 21, 2024
|
6
min read

The surprising culinary uses of jasmine flower

This versatile flower is changing drinks, dishes, and desserts

As I watched the jasmine flowers in full bloom in my mother-in-law’s garden in Pune, the sweet smell wafted into my senses subtly with the pre-monsoon breeze, and I couldn’t help but think of the calming effect this was having on me. 

Jasmine flowers are beloved across India, especially in South India, where they are a staple hair accessory for women. Known as Mallipoo in Tamil, Mallige in Kannada, and Malle Puvvu in Telugu, jasmine holds a special place in wedding and festival decorations, is considered sacred and offered to gods, and is used to produce essential oil, much of which is exported from India. Jasmine plants are easy to grow in pots and thrive in sunlight, making them a common sight in gardens worldwide.

Jasmine's appeal goes beyond decoration and perfume; these fragrant blooms are now appearing on our plates. Every part of the jasmine plant is edible and features in recipes across the globe.

Refreshing traditions

During the last monsoon, I was introduced to a mogra sharbat at a friend’s house, made from steeping mogra flowers in sugar syrup. “My mother disliked Coca-Cola and other aerated drinks so much that when we were kids she made it a point to give us only fresh sharbats which she prepared at home. She made mogra, badam, and rose sharbat amongst others,” says Aruna Katara from Pune. “What started off as a way for my mother to share her love for cooking with our family, has turned into a tradition that my sister-in-law Ritu Chhabria, is keeping alive even today, years after my mother’s passing.” 

Every year, the family sends out hundreds of bottles of mogra sharbat to friends and family.

Mogra sharbat bottled to send out to relatives (Source: Ritu Chhabria)

Mixology

Journalist Vikram Doctor says, “Gin, lime, jasmine syrup and soda make for a great cocktail. There’s an excellent book Madurai Malligai, by Dr Uma Kannan, about the cultivation and use of jasmine in Tamil Nadu, and that gives a good recipe for jasmine syrup.” 

Buland Shukla, the founder of For the Record bar in Goa steam distils Jasmine and Plumeria for a cocktail named ‘Hydroball’. He prefers steam distilling to boiling as the latter brings out hints of off flavours. “There's still some amount of reflux that happens, even if it is steam and not hydro distillation. But by taking conservative cuts, we can get a really good quality distillate that is both sweet and earthy.” 

It is said that scented jasmines, picked early in the day, make the best syrup. 

Water distillation of mogra in progress (Source: Buland Shukla)

Global influence

One of the most common uses for jasmine flowers is in tea. Jasmine tea is made by boiling fresh or dried flowers in water for a minute and then letting it steep for five minutes. Many chefs use jasmine decoction and flowers in drinks, mostly cocktails, while some use the flowers as a garnish. Being edible, they are often pressed into cookies or cakes. Just a few flowers can make an entire dish fragrant; for instance, six jasmine flowers can aromatize a whole pot of rice. Renowned chef Sanjeev Kapoor shares a  recipe for very fragrant jasmine rice, and there are popular versions of fried rice using fresh flowers in the East.

Jasmine tea can subtly enhance various foods during cooking. While jasmine has a sweet aroma, it also has a slightly bitter taste. In China, jasmine flower buds are used in dishes like fried eggs. Mogra flowers are loved for their strong aroma in everything from vodka infusions to salad dressings. Nazish Arif, a food technologist from Karachi, Pakistan is so partial to jasmine flowers that she has dedicated an entire blog to Chameli, the local name for the flowers. 

In her book Royal Cuisines of India, travel writer Dharmendar Kanwar features an old recipe that uses a kilo of jasmine stalks. Given that various parts of this plant are edible, I’m sure it finds use in various regional recipes. One that I did come across was the Mogra Panache Virshe, a soup made using the leaves of the jasmine plant. 

Blooming desserts

The Mogra dessert at The Table in Mumbai (Source: The Food Matters group)

Given their sweet smell and taste, I would think the flowers themselves are only used in sweeter foods. They are used in a variety of global desserts - from British shortbread cookies to French palmiers. Popular Mumbai restaurant, The Table, incorporates Mogra flowers into a dessert. Their chef Will Aghajanian says, “A flower vendor on the streets of Colaba trying to sell a mogra gajra (a jasmine hand bracelet or hair accessory) was the inspiration behind incorporating the fragrant mogra flower in The Table's dessert menu. We make a jasmine and jaggery syrup to season the cream with, as well as infuse the cream with more jasmine flowers overnight.” The Gavti Lab, a Goa-based gelato brand, has a jasmine and coconut crumble. Although I’m yet to try it, I hear it’s a hot favourite.

My mother disliked Coca-Cola and other aerated drinks so much that when we were kids, she made it a point to give us only fresh sharbats which she prepared at home. She made mogra, badam, and rose sharbat amongst others.

There’s definitely a renewed interest in cooking with flowers in recent times and as chefs and food scientists experiment more with offbeat ingredients, I’m sure mogra’s unique flavour and aroma will be used to elevate a larger variety of dishes. 

Jasmine Coconut gelato (Source: The Gavti Lab, Goa)
Sorry... Your keyword didn't match

Please try another keyword to match the results