In India, food security programs have long been mired in controversy, with frequent criticism over both the quality and quantity of food provided. These schemes, designed to combat malnutrition, often fail not due to a lack of resources but because of inefficient supply chains and a lack of focus on nutritional standards.

Recently, the Madras High Court directed the central government to address concerns about potential health impacts linked to fortified rice. Made under FSSAI standards, fortified rice involves blending rice with three crucial micronutrients: Iron, folic acid, and vitamin B12. This rice reaches millions of Indians through food security schemes, including the widely praised Mid-Day Meal (MDM) program, a free school feeding initiative supported by educators and economists.

The Union Ministry of Consumer Affairs, Food, and Public Distribution stood accused of neglecting essential operational guidelines for evaluating the distribution and use of fortified rice among its intended recipients, including through the MDM program and other schemes.

The Union Ministry of Consumer Affairs, Food, and Public Distribution has faced accusations of neglecting crucial guidelines for distributing and evaluating fortified rice. Critics argue that the rice lacks necessary warning labels to caution individuals with certain health conditions. The Indian Council of Medical Research has highlighted the absence of thorough medical evaluations since the pilot program's rollout, raising questions about potential health risks. Moreover, NITI Aayog, the government’s policy think tank, recommended a baseline study before introducing fortified rice, a step seemingly overlooked.

{{marquee}}

Promising start

In 2020, during the announcement to introduce fortified rice under the MDM, then Food Secretary Sudhanshu Pandey emphasized that India runs the world's largest food program under the National Food Security Act (NFSA), which legally entitles 810 million beneficiaries.

During his 75th Independence Day speech in 2021, Prime Minister Narendra Modi announced the government's commitment to distributing fortified rice through central schemes by 2024 to combat malnutrition among underprivileged communities. The initial phase, which started in October 2021, saw fortified rice being provided through the Integrated Child Development Services (ICDS) and the Pradhan Mantri Poshan Shakti Nirman (formerly Mid-Day Meal Scheme). The second phase began on April 1, 2022, targeting 291 specific districts, with the third phase launching in April 2023.

Challenges emerge

But in 2023, a report surfaced unfolding the reality about the quality of rice being served to children. School Development and Monitoring Committees, students, and teachers reported improperly cooked rice, yet no inquiry was conducted into the staple's quality. Current allegations that the grain was not thoroughly evaluated before reaching plates add to the concerns.

Sanjeev Chopra, the current secretary in the Department of Food and Public Distribution, assured that the Center is “on track to achieve 100 percent distribution of fortified rice across all rice consuming districts in the country.”  Once fortified rice is fully distributed across all districts by the end of this fiscal year, the program's annual cost will go up to Rs 2,680 crore. But the situation of India’s food distribution system continues to be grim despite money being funnelled into the meal programmes by the government.

Call for accountability 

The Mid-Day Meal program was introduced to ensure at least one nutritious meal for government school students and to boost attendance. The logic is simple: well-fed children can concentrate better and are more likely to attend school, especially those from impoverished families. However, some regions struggle to meet even this secondary goal, as the number of students relying on the program decreases.

A decade ago, the Comptroller and Auditor General (CAG) had concluded that the Mid-Day Meal scheme had been ineffective. But with thousands of crore rupees being channelled each year, wiser decisions should be made as the government becomes liable if it fails to meet the required quality mid-day meal as legally mandated by the National Food Security Act, 2013.

On 31 January, five members of the All Goa Small Scale Responsible Fisheries Union (AGSSRFU) set out to document illegal fishing activities in the Zuari River.

Using GPS cameras and powerful lights, they recorded trawlers fishing illegally near Dona Paula Jetty, just four kilometres from the coast. 

“We submitted this evidence to the department and the police to prove that illegal fishing was taking place. The recordings were made using GPS cameras, so the longitude and all GPS data were embedded within the videos,” said Sebastiao Rodrigues, AGSSRFU’s advisor.

Despite being prohibited within a five-kilometer radius from the shore as per the Goa, Daman, and Diu Marine Fishing Regulation Act, 1980, ecologically harmful fishing equipment such as trawl nets and purse-seine nets continue to be used in the Zuari River. 

The lack of proper enforcement has even emboldened trawlers to attack small-scale fishers.

“Although trawling has now ceased in the Zuari River due to our efforts, we still receive unconfirmed reports of a few trawlers and purse seiners engaging in such [illegal fishing] activities around 3:00 a.m. in the river,” he noted.

The union has consistently fought against illegal trawling and numerous others. There are junctures in time where it would stop—issues, including tourism encroaching on the fishers' livelihoods. Yet, given the state's lack of interest in maintaining ecological balance and curbing illegal activities, small-scale fish workers increasingly feel like they're fighting an uphill battle.

Policy dissonance

India is one of the top global producers of marine capture fisheries. Since independence, its marine capture fisheries have evolved from small-scale operations to highly mechanised ones. In 2022, marine fishing in mainland India generated an estimated revenue of ₹58,247 crore, supporting livelihoods and providing nutritional security for more than 28 million people engaged in the industry.

However, overfishing has become a growing concern in Indian waters in the past two decades due in part to the rise in mechanized fishing vessels, a trend encouraged by the Indian government to boost catch volumes. Additionally, climate change has led to declining fish stocks along India's eastern and western coasts. 

The report by the Bay of Bengal Programme Inter-Governmental Organisation (BOBP-IGO) mentioned that increasing seawater temperature, ocean acidification, sea level rise, changing current pattern, cyclone intensity, ocean oxygen, and nitrate levels, and shifting fish stocks likely pose significant challenges to the marine fisheries sector, having an estimated cost of 1-2% of India's current GDP by 2050.

A 2023 study published in Marine Policy concluded that India’s fisheries policies developed over the last 75 years rarely accounted for the ecological consequences of overfishing. It analysed previous research and revealed that policies have embraced new technology to catch more fish but have been slow to acknowledge scientific evidence of declining fish populations. 

The study revealed that the five states on the western coast had significant policy differences despite sharing similar marine ecology. For instance, in Maharashtra and Kerala, exclusive zones for artisanal fishing are defined by water depth, whereas in Gujarat, Goa, and Karnataka, they are determined by distance from shore. Bull trawling, a highly destructive technique, is banned in Goa and Maharashtra but remains legal in neighbouring Gujarat.

Regarding existing laws, there are no specifications for mesh sizes of trawler nets in Goa. Thus, trawlers can use any mesh size they desire.

Additionally, the minimum mesh sizes for trawlers vary considerably among these West Coast states. National fisheries policies have yet to implement a system to identify, assess, and address these discrepancies. The researchers recommended establishing effective incentives to encourage inter-state collaboration in fisheries management. “Regarding existing laws, there are no specifications for mesh sizes of trawler nets in Goa. Thus, trawlers can use any mesh size they desire,” said Rodrigues.

However, Goa has two legally approved mesh sizes for gillnets: 24 mm and 22 mm. The 22 mm size is general, while the 24 mm size is specifically for prawns and other species. These are the only two approved sizes, and anything smaller is prohibited.

Moreover, fishermen who use fish finders and have computer screens installed in their canoes and trawlers often use purse seine nets. However, purse seines are not supposed to operate within 5 km of the shore. These nets usually have a relatively small mesh size of eight or nine mm. “This situation leads to fish entering the nets, which are either discarded and dumped, including small or dead fish, directly into the river or sold as fertiliser,” he points out.

India's marine fishery has witnessed significant growth. The mechanisation of fishing vessels has led to intense exploitation of commercial marine species along both coasts and has put pressure on fish stocks, causing many species to become less abundant. The study warns that this rapid growth could lead Indian fisheries towards an unsustainable future.

Fishing ban

Every year, the Indian government imposes a 45- to 62-day fishing ban along the East and West coasts to maintain marine life and ensure healthy populations of aquatic species.

The fishing ban coincides with the monsoon season, the prime time for fish to reproduce without disturbance. The Central government enforces fishing bans in Exclusive Economic Zones (EEZ), while state governments are responsible for setting the ban periods in territorial waters.

The primary purpose of the ban is to prevent overfishing and maintain a balance in marine ecosystems. It also helps protect fishermen from the rough seas and unpredictable weather during the monsoon season.

On the East Coast, the ban runs from mid-April to mid-June; on the West Coast, it starts in early June and ends in late July. There is a 10- to 14-day overlap in early June when fishing is prohibited on both coasts simultaneously.

Seasonal fishing bans and minimum mesh size regulations are two standard rules used in fisheries management. However, the aforementioned study published in the journal Marine Policy found that these rules often do not consider important biological information published in scientific studies.

Small-scale fishers have complained that they return empty-handed almost daily for ten days starting June 15, signaling the end of the ban period.

Debasis Shyamal, President of the Dakshinbanga Matsyajibi Forum (DMF) and council member of the National Platform for Small Scale Fish Workers (NPSSFW), which represents small-scale fish workers in the southern part of West Bengal, says that at the national level, NPSSFW demands that trawlers be banned for 120 days and motorized boats for 61 days. The NPSSFW argues that when everyone returns to the sea after the ban period, resources are depleted within 15-20 days, affecting small-scale fishers. "Small-scale fishers have complained that they return empty-handed almost daily for ten days starting June 15, signaling the end of the ban period," Shyamal points out.

NPSSFW advocates for differential management in fisheries because small fishers cannot compete with big, mechanized boats. Shyamal also notes that promoting and preserving small-scale fishers helps protect marine resources.

"Small-scale fishers are increasingly moving away from fishing activities or transitioning to work for trawlers and other big mechanized boats, indicating that resources are being depleted faster than they can be replenished," he says.

NPSSFW has repeatedly demanded a pan-India differential treatment prioritizing small-scale fishers. Shyamal explains that one reason for this demand is the increasing occurrence of cyclones and natural disasters on the East Coast. He believes that a 120-day ban on mechanized boats could also be beneficial in this context.

According to Shyamal, small-scale fishers benefit from the ban period because trawlers and other large mechanized boats must cease operations entirely.

"It has been confirmed that hand-drawn net fishers near my home [in East Medinipur district] have a significant catch during the ban period. However, soon after the ban ends, small fishers find it difficult to catch fish, and the yield decreases significantly," he explains.

The fishing ban period may be less effective in recharging marine resources. The Marine Policy study found that the monsoon fishing ban, applied to all coastal states, is not very effective because less than 40% of commercially fished species breed during the ban on the West Coast. Given these findings, changes to the regulations might be necessary.

Additionally, large, mechanized boats and trawlers do not always follow the fishing ban. Rodrigues points out that there have been reports of violations by several trawlers and purse seiners, even during the fishing ban period of June-July.

He also mentions that in his conversations with fishermen, some recommend abandoning mechanized fishing or, for small-scale fishers, avoiding using motors and resorting to rowing for fishing for at least two months. This drastic approach, he suggests, could genuinely help replenish fish stock. 

"They claim that even their motors chase away fish and create sound pollution, not just trawlers," he says.

Mechanized menace

According to a 2022 report by the Central Marine Fisheries Research Institute (CMFRI), mechanized fishing vessels accounted for 82.0% of the total catch, totaling 2.85 million tonnes, out of three types of fishing crafts. Motorized fishing crafts contributed 0.61 million tonnes, or 17.0%, while non-motorized fishing crafts brought in just 0.04 million tonnes, representing 1.0% of the total landings.

This significant shift towards mechanized fishing not only impacts the marine ecosystem but also severely affects the lives and livelihoods of small-scale and artisanal fishers.

"Small-scale fishers are finding it hard to survive. They migrate from Andhra Pradesh to work on large mechanized boats operating in West Coast states like Gujarat and Maharashtra," says D. Pal, General Secretary of the Democratic Traditional Fish Workers Forum based in Rajahmundry, a city on the eastern banks of the sacred Godavari River in Andhra Pradesh.

Pal adds that the dominance of mechanized boats has increased over the past eight years due to government policies. He explains that these policies encourage the transition to mechanized fishing, but this shift does not benefit small-scale fishers. Even if the government provides partial financial support for buying mechanized boats, small-scale fishers often cannot meet the rest of the loan requirements.

"They can hardly meet their daily expenses. We can't expect them to gather enough funds to transition to mechanized fishing boats. People with more resources can afford these mechanized boats, while small-scale fishers, unable to compete with the big mechanized boats, end up working on them," he notes.

Pal also pointed out that conflicts between fishermen have escalated in Visakhapatnam. Fishermen from nearby areas, struggling to find a catch in their own regions, come close to the Vishakhapatnam area. Local fishermen in Vishakhapatnam have protested this intrusion, and in some cases, boats belonging to the intruders have been set on fire.

{{marquee}}

Surviving the ban period

Since fisheries fall under state jurisdiction, each state government decides the ban period and whether to offer any financial compensation during this time. As a result, the compensation schemes vary widely and are sometimes completely absent.

In West Bengal, there has been no allowance for the fishing ban period since 2012, when the Savings Cum Relief Scheme—which relied on contributions from the central government, the state, and beneficiaries—was discontinued. This program supported small-scale fishers during the ban period.

This year, the West Bengal government finally addressed a demand made by the Dakshin Banga Matsyajibi Forum in 2017 by launching the Samudra Sathi scheme. This scheme provides Rs 5,000 in compensation to all seafaring fishermen over 21 years old during the ban period. Even trawlers can request compensation under this scheme.

In Andhra Pradesh, all marine fishermen operating mechanized, motorized, and non-motorized vessels receive an allowance of Rs 10,000 during the ban period. However, according to D. Pal, General Secretary of the Democratic Traditional Fish Workers Forum, many small-scale fishers are excluded from this allowance.

"We have corresponded with the fisheries department multiple times over the last three years about this," he said.

Furthermore, additional eligibility criteria restrict who can receive the allowance. For instance, fishermen over 50 are ineligible, leaving many without support during the ban. If someone is over 50 but has no choice but to continue fishing, what will they do? The government doesn't even provide a pension to those over 50," Pal remarked.

Pal also noted widespread corruption, with only a few enjoying diesel subsidies—300 liters for a boat every month. Mechanized boats, which account for most of the fishing activity, tend to receive preferential treatment, monopolizing the subsidies meant for everyone. The subsidies for essential items like ice boxes, new nets, and ropes are frequently redirected towards mechanized boats.

Another source of inequity is that boats under 25 meters are considered small-scale fishers, even if they are motorized. Yet, they do not receive subsidies meant for small-scale fishers. Pal highlighted that many larger boats receiving these benefits belong to influential political leaders.

In April, fishermen associated with the Odisha Traditional Fish Workers Union (OTFWU) called for an increase in compensation during the two-month marine fishing ban from April 15 to June 14. The Odisha government proposed offering Rs. 4,500 to each family during the ban through a scheme focused on providing "livelihood nutritional support for the socio-economic background of active traditional fishery families for conservation of fisheries resources."

K. Alleya, the general secretary of OTFWU, mentioned that the ban would impact about 1.5 lakh traditional fishermen in Odisha who rely on fishing for their livelihoods. He urged the government to increase compensation to at least Rs. 15,000 per family per month during the ban. Additionally, he insisted that women involved in the fishing industry, including those who sell and transport fish, should be included in the list of beneficiaries.

In Goa, there is no allowance for small-scale fish workers during the ban period. "They survive on their savings," says Rodrigues.

This project originated during my time at Samaj Pragati Sahayaog in Dewas, Madhya Pradesh. Together with Hari Sai Srikar, I was involved in documenting the edible wild greens that thrived abundantly during the monsoon season in a small village named 'Sitapuri,' located alongside the 'Kanad' river. Throughout this process, we meticulously documented our findings, along with several other wonderful discoveries. Among these, was the documentation of local games played by the kids. Anything in their surroundings seemed to become a medium for play and joy for them, so simple and creative. They have a deep-seated connection with nature, as seen in their intuitive understanding of the plants and materials around them. They knew which leaves when crushed produced colors, which one suited best to blow bubbles. Young girls made necklaces breaking reeds and blew bubbles from the sap coming out of plants.
‍

Unlike urban environments where play is often confined to structured playgrounds or indoor spaces, rural children use the vast outdoors as their playground. This natural setting provides endless opportunities for imaginative and unstructured play. The curiosity with which they immerse themselves opens portals of magic for them in the ordinary. The children's ability to repurpose natural elements into toys and games highlights the resourcefulness and adaptability inherent in rural life. Through play, children learn about their local ecosystems. They become familiar with different plants, insects, and animals, gaining practical knowledge about which plants are safe, which insects might sting, and where it’s safe to explore. Many games played by rural children have been passed down through generations. These games often have cultural significance and are a way for children to connect with their heritage. This connection nurtures creativity, resilience, and a sense of community. The way children in Sitapuri and similar villages interact with nature reminds us of the profound relationship between humans and their environment.

An audio-visual record

Sachin makes whistles with leaves from the trees around his house in Sitapuri. We can see here how kids engage all their senses when interacting with their surroundings.

Madhu and Sajjan display their creativity by crafting captivating patterns on leaves with gentle bites, each leaf becoming a canvas for their imagination. With each playful interaction, they explore the infinite possibilities, creating unique designs with an innate understanding of natural aesthetics. This is a delightful illustration of how children effortlessly apply design principles in harmony with nature.

Young girls find ways to make jewelry from the plants around them, breaking down reeds into small pieces carefully, they make these beautiful neckpieces for themselves.

Madhu and Sonu find joy in creating bubbles using the sap of fruits from the Jatropha plant, which thrives abundantly around their home. Their fascination highlights the keen awareness children possess regarding the unique traits of the plants in their environment.

Sajjan delights in plucking the tender leaves of the Sagwan Tree, and with a gentle crush between his hands, unveils brick-red pigments. Children, captivated by the allure of nature's palette, eagerly join in the exploration, uncovering vibrant colors hidden within. These simple yet enchanting games are cherished among the young ones, passed down through generations, fostering a timeless connection with the wonders of the natural world.

Rajma, Idli, Chana. Repeat.

Since the green revolution, our plates and palates have shrunk to eat just what is readily available. With the entire country depending on a handful of crops for their nutritional needs, this has had a profound impact on our bodies, ecology, and the soil that grows them. 

In the last 50 years or so, more than 1.10 lakh rice varieties have been lost because of multiple factors. First, high-yielding varieties were favoured; second, the onslaught of monoculture began; and third, chemical usage became rampant. The loss of crop diversity has reduced our nutrition and exposed farmers to the vagaries of climate. 

Our collective dietary choices can go a long way in fighting climate change, and the rules seem simple enough: eat local, seasonal, and traditional food. Yet, making these choices has never been more challenging. With more choices than we can count from distant lands, much of our food is packaged, laced with toxic chemicals or comes with immense food miles. To help consumers make ecologically sustainable choices while rediscovering the lost foods in their region, the Centre for Science and Environment launched ‘First Food: Future of Taste’, the fourth in their series ‘First Food’. The book is a compilation of a hundred climate-resilient and highly nutritious recipes from different parts of India.

The First Food series started in 2000 after CSE’s Down To Earth magazine focused on featuring local ingredients. Vibha Varshney, editor of the First Food series and Down To Earth’s consulting editor, says, “The first book, Taste of India's Biodiversity, focused on food and environment; second, Culture of Taste on community’s knowledge of biodiversity in food and third, Business of Taste on linkages between food, biodiversity and livelihood.”

Preserving traditions

Future of Taste guides cooking in our climate-risked worlds by focusing on resilient ingredients such as galgal (hill lemon) and kulfa (purslane) that are locally foraged. The volume is a survival guide to food shortages and haphazard climate patterns. It encourages you to consume food that thrives despite arid conditions, water scarcity and erratic life cycles. By including traditional knowledge from the grassroots, the book is an entreaty to reimagine and use food parts that are generally wasted, weeds that are often overlooked, and seeds with long shelf lives.  

“Communities in India have used such ingredients to survive periods of distress like droughts or excessive rains or floods,” said Varshney. “Our ancestors had this knowledge. Future of Taste is an effort to preserve this knowledge,” she added. 

The book’s approach involves focusing on one ingredient in one article at a time. Each article narrates its cultural significance, importance to nature, nutritional and medicinal value, livelihood impact and response to climate change. At least one or two recipes later follow the article.

Apart from Varshney, the book's contributors include scientists, bloggers, nutritionists, politicians, and government officials who have shared their personal food stories. Future of Taste also has renowned chefs Manish Mehrotra, Jatin Mallick, and Manjit S Gill to give a spin to the ancient millet and encourage the urban eater to play and innovate. To date, the entire series has showcased 400 recipes.    

Varshney’s belief that carrying out such recipes can create a demand and, thus, business has had encouraging precedents. Millets and makhanas are two recent examples that have grown in popularity. From millet rotis to makhana chaat, these ingredients are now used by the urban consumer in myriad imaginative ways.

First Food is divided into two sections: one focuses on millet accompanied by experimental millet recipes from the chefs. The second section focuses on breakfast, snacks, meals, chutneys, pickles, beverages, and sweets recipes using native ingredients from different regions in the country. For the average reader, surprises are there at each turn of the page. The book reveals recipes for gulmohar flower pakoras and chane ka saag (saag made from chickpea leaves).

 At a glance, the list of ingredients seems unfamiliar and wild. But Varshney dispels the myth that a wide variety of food is inaccessible to city-dwellers. “Many of the ingredients grow wild in urban neighbourhoods. We need to recognise them and find ways of using them,” explains Varshney. For example, young leaves of pilkhan (Ficus virens) can be used to prepare a stir-fried vegetable dish. Though the leaves are abundant for a few weeks in the year, very few know they can be consumed, let alone make an effort to pluck them and prepare a dish.”

The book also includes expert opinions on five Indian ecosystems, including the Himalayas, Sundarbans, Western Ghats, Peninsular Plateau, and Northeast. The spotlight on each ecosystem illuminates its role as a food basket for indigenous communities and beyond. Since documenting biodiversity is a key challenge, Future of Taste chronicles the natural bounty of fish, snails, crab, cereals, millets, legumes, roots, tubers, vegetables, and spices such ecosystems possibly offer. 

Each ecosystem offers unique offerings. For instance, the Himalayas are known for their wild edibles. Consuming these edibles can help marginal communities achieve nutritional security, and documentation through various non-profits also improves their livelihoods. 

In that sense, ‘First Food: Future of Taste’ is a win-win for all. It is time to look around and pluck that oft-seen flower, grow local greens, and ask your vegetable seller for the local and traditional to repair the damage to our soil and bodies. 

Murukesan TP wades into the backwater and disappears into it in a flash. Seconds later, he emerges, carrying in his hands a mound of blackish mud, which he deposits on the shore. This routine continues until he has collected enough of the nutrient-rich mud that will serve as the bed for his mangrove seeds at home.

Murukesan from Malippuram, a small fishing hamlet 13 kilometres from Ernakulam, has over 5,000 mangrove saplings at a small nursery attached to his 10-cent property. For over 11 years now, this fisherman has been working tirelessly towards conserving the region’s mangrove cover. Till date, he has planted more than 100,000 saplings in Elankunnapuzha, Mulavukadu, Valanthakad, Vallarpadam, Puthuvype, Njarakkal, Cherai and Kannammali regions where the mangrove population has declined drastically.

‍

According to a 2009 study carried out by the Kerala Forest Research Institute (KFRI), of the 14 districts in Kerala, mangroves are spread over 10 districts with Kannur having the largest area under mangroves (755 ha), followed by Kozhikode (293 ha) and Ernakulam (260 ha). Over the years, as the burgeoning city began expanding its boundaries, mangrove forests were cleared. 

I was born and raised here, amidst the fields and mangroves, and they have always been a part of my life.

Murukesan, 58, has witnessed this change first hand. “I come from a family of farmers who worked in the Pokkali fields here in Malippuram. I was born and raised here, amidst the fields and mangroves, and they have always been a part of my life. I remember my grandmother cooking the seeds of uppatti (avicennia officinalis) known as black mangrove for they were said to have medicinal properties,” he says. Over time, rapid urbanisation led to the shrinking of mangrove forests and Pokkali rice fields were filled up for construction. 

How it all started

It was in 2013, when he had a chance meeting with an official from the Kerala Forest Department’s social forestry programme that Murukesan decided to get into active conservation. “We spoke about replanting and the idea of a nursery was born then,” he says. He soon set up a makeshift nursery at home.

In 2020, Murukesan improved the infrastructure at the nursery with the support of the MS Swaminathan Research Foundation’s fisheries-based skill development and livelihood enhancement project for coastal villages. Today, the nursery, which is built in the space around his house, is 10 metres in breadth and 40 metres long.

He builds a seed bed by creating a frame on the ground with bamboo pieces stacked close together (about eight to nine inches in height). This is filled with the fertile mud collected from the backwater. After the bed is ready, the seeds are sown and watered periodically. “If it is too sunny, I tie a thin sheet above.” Once the seeds are sown, Murukesan monitors them constantly. “I have to keep checking, remove the bad seeds and ensure they are watered,” he adds. In about three weeks, the seeds sprout two leaves and in two months, they grow up to one-and-a-half feet in height. “This is when the saplings are ready to be planted,” Murukesan adds.

Seed collection usually begins in April and extends up to May – he takes his two-wheeler and goes on a seed hunt. “I usually come back with at least two sacks full of seeds, however, this year, owing to the harsh summer, the seeds were fewer,” he adds. 

Murukesan does the planting himself, too. He takes his boat out to the estuarine zones and plants the saplings close to the shore in such a way that they are not fully submerged during high tide.

The picture, however, isn’t all too rosy. Murukesan does 80% of the work, even though his family and friends chip in at times and the process is expensive. He buys bamboo, rope, sacks, and rents out a machine to cut the bamboo into pieces. Though the organisations/individuals who place the orders for mangrove saplings for planting drives pay him, most of the money is spent from his own pocket, which gets especially challenging when he isn’t able to go out fishing. But Murukesan is undeterred. “I will continue to do what I can to bring mangroves back to their former glory,” he says.

During the initial days, his neighbours saw his work as a futile exercise. They couldn’t understand why he would want to spend time and money on a relatively valueless plant. “Coastal communities often attach a nuisance value to mangroves as they are a safe haven for reptiles, mosquitos and sometimes attract otters; which are seen as pests by people living close to mangroves,” Murukesan says.

But today, things are different. Governmental organisations and private bodies procure saplings from him and he is often invited to give lectures and talks on the importance of mangroves in the region. He has won a number of awards and recognition for his conservation efforts, too. “The people around here have begun to understand my work. I have become a mangrove evangelist,” he laughs.

Even if I can create a difference one tree at a time, I would say it is a step ahead.

Mangrove tree clusters act as a natural barrier against tidal waves, storms and coastal erosion. “It was during the 2018 floods that coastal communities realised the real importance of mangroves. It can prevent coastal flooding to a great extent,” he adds.

They also sustain several marine species. Mangrove swamps serve as feeding, breeding, and spawning ground for fishes, crabs and shrimp. The inorganic nutrients from the land and decomposed leaves supply valuable organic nutrients for marine organisms. The trees, with their wide canopies, act as a sanctuary for birds.

Kochi has about 15 varieties of mangroves and Murukesan deals mostly with Rizophora mucronata (the Asiatic mangrove or bhranthan kandal in Malayalam).

Murukesan is confident that if the afforestation efforts are carried out at this rate, we would be able to witness a visible change in the next 10 years. He says: “Even if I can create a difference one tree at a time, I would say it is a step ahead.”

What keeps farmers in Coimbatore and its neighbouring districts awake at night? It's not just the usual worries of weather and market prices, but the looming threat of wild animals, especially elephants and boars.

"Every other day, I lose crops worth up to Rs 150," said ‘Manpuzhu' (Earthworm) Ravi, an organic farmer in Uppupallam, Sathyamangalam. For over a decade, he has been waging a silent war against wild boars on his four-acre farm.

In Coimbatore and Sathyamangalam, farmers cultivate various crops such as bananas, mangoes, tomatoes, brinjals, and turmeric. Millets like sorghum and ragi, along with pulses such as black gram and green gram, round out the crop diversity. TBut there is a serious threat to their livelihoods lurking in the form of wild boars. These animals can adapt to diverse habitats, breed quickly, and feed on just about anything, making them well-suited to areas with human activity. The farmers struggle to protect their crops, with the state forest department's measures often falling short. The wild boars wreak havoc on the fields, damaging every stage of the crops from seedlings to maturity.

"Unlike elephants, boars cause seemingly minor damage. For example, they just knock down a few trees. Even getting a paltry compensation of Rs 500 for those few trees is a hassle. So, many farmers simply don't report boar attacks. But the losses add up significantly over time,” said Dr Jayaprakash CR, an expert in human-animal conflict and a certified organic farmer in Thadagam.

Perfect storm

Farms are easy to attack and combined with deforestation and fewer natural predators like tigers, leopards, panthers, wild dogs, and jackals, allowed the wild boar population to grow quickly. According to globalforestwatch.org, Coimbatore lost 262 hectares of natural forest from 2010 to 2023.

Kerala’s boar population grew by more than 40% in the last 15 years, from 40,963 in 1993 to 58,000 in 2019​​.  Since 2022, culling efforts have been enforced with proper protocol to ensure the humane treatment of the boars while not disrupting their role in the ecosystem. Determining the exact wild boar population in Tamil Nadu is challenging due to the lack of a comprehensive statewide census.

The consequences of boar attacks go beyond mere crop damage. “The fear they create is palpable. Farmer unions demand vermin status for wild boars, Centre highlights their role in forest habitat and workers are afraid to even come to the fields," said an office bearer of the Tamilaga Vivasayigal Sangam's (Tamil Nadu Farmer’s Union) G Ranganathan. 

Ideally, a buffer zone of 100 to 200 metres from the forest boundary should remain undeveloped to allow wildlife to move freely and mitigate human-wildlife conflicts. “However, this practice is often ignored, with cultivation extending right up to the forest edge, exacerbating conflicts and disrupting wildlife movements,” said N Sadiq Ali, founder of Wildlife and Nature Conservation Trust (WNCT) in Nilgiris.

Culling vs conservation

In Kerala, the government encourages local bodies to cull wild boars that threaten crops or human life. In March, the government decided to designate the conflict as a state-specific disaster. As a result, the State Disaster Management Authority (SDMA) will also be involved in implementing various remedial actions.

Farmer organisations across Tamil Nadu have also urged their state government to classify the animals as vermin, allowing for their culling. In December 2023, farmers in Tirunelveli asked the government to remove wild boars from the Wildlife Protection Act's 1972 Scheduled List of protected animals. As per the latest announcement, TN’s forest minister M Mathiventhan has officially declared that the government will hunt wild boars that damage agricultural crops beyond 5 km from reserve forests. 

Conservationists, though not entirely against culling, are sceptical of misuse. "A significant fear is that without strict oversight, such measures could lead to indiscriminate killing, affecting not only the targeted wild boar populations but other wildlife species as well," said Ali. 

Kalidasan, founder of Osai, a Coimbatore-based environmental trust, emphasises the wild boar's ecological importance: "It is an essential link in the food chain by providing prey for predators such as leopards and tigers. Its habit of digging the ground fosters plant growth, and its scavenging behaviour helps with nutrient recycling. So, a drastic action like culling must be carried out with careful consideration.” 

The state government formed a 19-member committee in November 2023. Headed by Chief Wildlife Warden Srinivas R Reddy, the committee included forest officials, scientists, and farmers. It conducted field visits to assess the situation and recommend mitigation strategies. Antony Rubin, one of the committee's members, said it found no concrete evidence of culling in Kerala reducing the wild boar population in the long run. "They might disappear for a day or two due to fear, but they eventually return. The compensation system is broken. Lack of transparency in promised payments and municipalities not paying further complicate the situation. To make matters worse, regulations against culling young and lactating animals are being ignored," he added.

Containing the wild boar population requires a multi-pronged approach. "While the forest department initially considered capture and relocation, the logistics have made it unviable," said Kalidasan. "We need to conduct a thorough survey to map wild boar populations and crop damage outside forested areas before making policy decisions. We must also identify and clear their hiding places, such as overgrown areas near streams which are often choked by invasive plants. This could discourage them from encroaching on farmland,” he added.

Ali suggests that camera traps, typically used in forests, could be deployed on forest edges to track the movement of wild boars. This data, he reckons, would help target interventions to reduce conflict and protect animals and communities.

The state government's committee also favours a multifaceted approach, according to Rubin. Apart from identifying 'hot zones' of the wild boar population, he believes studying the impact of feral pigs (which seem to result from interbreeding between domestic and wild pigs), examining the insurance schemes for farmer compensations, and exploring bio-repellent options is crucial for resolving the conflict. "We have suggested all these mitigation measures. And the final framework of the committee will be released soon," said Ali.

"As an organic farmer, I understand biodiversity," said ‘Manpuzhu’ Ravi. “The wild boars aren't at fault. Human encroachment—like resorts on forest land—disregards the environment,” he added. 

To address the growing crisis, GV Sudarshan, a third-generation organic farmer from Gobichettipalayam, Erode, has developed a liquid bio-repellent. Validated by the Forest College and Research Institute of Tamil Nadu Agriculture University, this bio-repellent, according to Sudarshan, can also increase yields and improve soil health. "We've conducted tests in various locations against elephants, wild boars, and even bats," he said, "Once these tests proved successful, we started collaborating with Krishi Vigyan Kendras (KVKs) through the Indian Council of Agricultural Research district research stations for wider application." 

The product is available in Tamil Nadu, Orissa, Uttar Pradesh, Bihar, Gujarat, and Kashmir.

Jagadeesh Reddy grew up watching his grandfather lovingly tend to their family farm in Chittoor, Andhra Pradesh. When Reddy’s father later used chemical fertilisers and pesticides on the farm, he felt a sense of loss.

When it was Reddy’s turn to care for the family farm, he decided that it would be completely chemical-free. He was drawn to the zero-budget natural farming (ZBNF) techniques of Subash Pakekar. The approach requires minimal external inputs and is based on the principles of natural farming. 

It took Reddy two years of hard work to see results. His biggest challenge was getting rid of harmful metals —including nickel, cadmium, and arsenic— in the soil from 40 years of chemical use. As Reddy began applying the techniques he learned from the ZBNF workshop, he noticed the reappearance of small creatures like earthworms, beetles, and weaver ants in his land. Their return was a clear indication that the soil was free of harmful heavy metals. “When they came back, I knew the soil was free from heavy metals,” he said.

Today, Reddy grows a diverse range of crops, including four mango varieties, six indigenous rice types, millets, groundnuts, sugarcane, pulses, lentils, turmeric, tamarind and vegetables in his 35-acre farm. His natural farming methods have gained widespread attention. Neighbouring farmers, professionals from different states, and industry experts visit to learn from his practices.

Reddy is also a recipient of numerous prestigious state and national awards, including the “Innovative Farmer Award'' by the Indian Agriculture Research Institute, New Delhi, and the Adarsh Raitu Award by the Government of Andhra Pradesh.

Zero-budget revolution

The ZBNF technique is a holistic and ecological approach to agriculture. It recognises that the diversity of nature is essential for growing healthy food and maintaining a healthy planet.

ZBNF emphasizes the importance of using indigenous seeds and livestock, which are well adapted to local conditions and minimise the need for external inputs. Cow dung and urine are the primary ingredients for microbial concoctions for seed treatment (beejamrut), soil enrichment (jeevamrut), and pest management (neemastram). 

The method also encourages mixed cropping for several reasons, including improving soil health and reducing dependence on a single crop in case of a bad season, as well as biomass for livestock to ensure work and harvest are available throughout the year. Some farmers even grow trees to create a microclimate for heat-sensitive crops.  “Through years of practice, we learn the right combinations. For instance, I deliberately stress the roots of sugarcane by only watering the chilli plants in the next row. This forces the sugarcane roots to reach out further,” he said. 

Natural farming, in contrast to conventional chemical farming, relies on the natural decomposition of organic matter by earthworms to maintain a healthy and nutrient-rich soil. This healthy soil not only improves crop yields but also helps to mitigate the effects of climate change by increasing the soil's moisture retention and reducing flood vulnerability.

I deliberately stress the roots of sugarcane by only watering the chilli plants in the next row. This forces the sugarcane roots to reach out further.

As a result, natural farming is more ecologically sustainable and climate resilient than traditional chemical farming. Unlike organic farming, which typically requires the purchase of vermicompost, natural farming does not require this additional input, thus saving the farmer money and increasing profits.

The lack of chemicals on his farmland keeps his workers cheerful and healthy. “They are long past the days of being exposed to toxic and carcinogenic chemical inputs. Natural farming also requires minimum ploughing and weed removal,” Reddy said. Spraying natural pesticides like Neemastram keeps diseases at bay.

Beyond the field

Reddy markets his produce directly to urban consumers. The millets from his farm are milled and turned into snacks, while the peanuts are used for both snacks and oil. "We ensure there is no loss of nutrients in these processes," he said.

Only the husk is removed from the rice kernels, and a stone crusher is used to grind the millets and produce cold-pressed groundnut oil. The snacks are prepared using firewood and seasoned with Himalayan pink salt. The farm’s sugar cane undergoes a similar process, yielding jaggery balls without any external additives such as chemicals or colors. This jaggery retains its richness in essential minerals, vitamins, and proteins.

To expand his efforts, Reddy has established a network of 100 farmers who collaborate to package and sell products to urban consumers. While these natural farmers have received support from the state government through various schemes, additional infrastructure is required to effectively market their produce. To this end, the farmers actively participate in exhibitions in cities such as Bengaluru, Hyderabad, and Delhi.

Reddy is dedicated to persuading and converting farmers to adopt natural farming methods.

“Like there is a family doctor for every family, there should be a natural farmer for every family. We can then be assured of delivering a healthy world for our children to live in and thrive,” he said.

Organic farming means returning to basics. Instead of relying on chemicals to grow crops, farmers use traditional and natural methods. They nurture the soil, rotate crops, and let beneficial insects control pests. Animals can roam freely and eat organic food too. Intensive inorganic agricultural practices deplete the physical, chemical, and biological elements needed for sustainable agriculture. 

In the late 1960s, India faced food security threats due to population growth and frequent droughts. In response, the Indian government collaborated with the U.S. to modernise farming, incorporating chemical inputs for cultivation, disease management, and weed control. This led to increased production and productivity, partially satisfying food security needs and even creating surplus for export.

Over the next 30-40 years, production and productivity declined due to rising input costs, soil degradation, increased disease prevalence, uncontrollable weed growth, excessive water use, and unfavourable market prices. Conventional farming became unsustainable and unprofitable for many.

{{marquee}}

Organic farming emerged as a viable alternative to address the harmful effects of chemical inputs. It prioritises sustainable use of natural resources and environmental stewardship, making it a more suitable option in light of contemporary challenges. Here are five benefits of supporting and practising organic farming:

Improves soil health

According to Organic International (IFOAM), organic farming retains and sustains soil health in several ways. 

• Improving soil fertility: Organic farming maintains and builds fertile soil by using organic matter inputs such as green manures, compost, and farmyard manure. Techniques like cover cropping, crop rotation, intercropping, and low soil disturbance tillage also contribute to soil fertility.
• Integrating crops and animals: This practice reduces overgrazing and promotes nutrient recycling on the farm, leading to healthier soil ecosystems.
• Boosting water infiltration and retention: High levels of organic matter and permanent soil cover, like cover crops or mulch, improve water infiltration and reduce irrigation needs.

Research published in the Journal of the Saudi Society of Agricultural Sciences highlights that Soil Organic Carbon (SOC) increases more rapidly under organic management. SOC is crucial for enhancing soil physical structure, water holding capacity, aggregate stability, and cation exchange capacity. Increased SOC also improves nutrient composition, water cycling, and regulates pH levels.

Helps in pest control 

 Pests pose a major challenge for farmers, especially in India, where reliance on chemical inputs has degraded soil health and created a cycle of crop failures and debts. However, studies show that organic farming can effectively address pest issues:

• A study published in Nature indicates that organic farming enhances pest control, reducing the need for synthetic pesticides.
• Research in Nature Plants shows that organic management strengthens plants' natural defences against pests, even in their presence. Practices like crop rotation, cultivation, and using resistant varieties help manage pests without relying on synthetic alternatives.
• Long-term organic farms report decreased pest levels due to practices that limit pest build-up, increase predator biodiversity, and encourage beneficial insects.

Organic farms often have lower nitrogen levels, as organic fertilisers are less soluble than synthetic ones. This makes nitrogen-limited plants less attractive to herbivores, reducing pest pressure.

Environment-friendly

According to the Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations, organic agriculture reduces non-renewable energy use by decreasing agrochemicals, whose production processes are carbon intensive. 

By improving soil health, organic farming improves its ability to sequester carbon, contributing to the fight against climate change. 

According to an article published on Organic Without Boundaries – a blog by IFOAM – Organics International, there is a direct correlation between nitrous oxide (a greenhouse gas) emissions and the volume of nitrogen-based fertilisers used in farming. 

The article also mentions that organic farms tend to have lower nitrogen levels per hectare than conventional farms because they focus on establishing closed nutrient cycles and minimising losses via runoff, volatilisation (transfer of chemical as a gas through soil-air interface), and emissions. Organic farming also does not pollute groundwater with chemical inputs. 

Better economic output  

According to an article titled ‘The Economics of Organic Farming’ published by NGO ‘Nature’s Path’, organic agriculture, when compared to conventional farming, is a more efficient economic system, both for generating profit and reducing the sort of environmental impacts (often thought of as “hidden costs”) that end up costing consumers in other ways.

The article also highlights a concept called ‘natural capital’, defined as a branch of economics that recognises how people benefit from natural systems as a form of capital. In other words, it quantifies the ecosystem services and resources nature provides. When natural capital values are incorporated, organic farming provides long-term profitability for the farmers.

‘The economic implications of organic farming’, a study published by the American Journal of Alternative Agriculture, states that lesser dependency on fossil fuels, expensive inputs and annual loans makes organic farming less vulnerable to market fluctuations. It also avoids social and economic costs such as pesticide poisonings and costs of testing genetically engineered foods, says a study titled ‘Benefits of U.S. organic agriculture’ published in Researchgate. The premium prices that certified organic produce fetch in the market and exports further increase farmers’ profits.

The Marayoor-Kanthalloor region in Kerala is known for many things, including aromatic sandalwood forests, sprawling tea plantations, sugarcane fields, and fruit orchards. But have you heard of Keezhanthoor coffee, named after the small village about 40 km north of Munnar that cultivates it?

In late 2023, Keezhanthoor coffee took centre stage at the fifth  World Coffee Conference, hosted for the first time in India. With over 20,000 participants from more than 80 countries, the event's theme of 'Sustainability through Circular Economy and Regenerative Agriculture' provided the perfect platform for this unique brew.

Situated at 1,500 meters above sea level on the Tamil Nadu-Kerala border, Keezhanthoor boasts an ideal climate for coffee cultivation. The average temperature ranges from 23°C to 28°C, and annual rainfall falls between 150 cm and 200 cm. The region experiences a dry spell lasting 70 to 90 days. Despite coffee's inherent resistance to pests and diseases, Keezhanthoor tells a story of a community overcoming great odds to produce globally recognised coffee.

‍Field notes

Coffee production in Keezhanthoor dates back at least a century, according to V.V. Paranthaman, a village senior who has worked in coffee fields since childhood. For most of his lifetime, coffee and paddy were the main crops in the village. “Paddy was always grown only in small landholdings in our village for local consumption,” he said. When farmers tried to market it, middlemen reaped the most profits. Combined with changing weather patterns, paddy quickly became unprofitable. “We didn’t want to make the same mistake with coffee,” he added.

Over time, the paddy fields made way for Arecanut trees and sugarcane farms, which later gave rise to small industries producing jaggery. The remaining paddy fields were turned into fruit and vegetable farms. Among other fruits, Kanthalloor now produces apples, oranges, cabbage, and cauliflowers, making it the only region in Kerala to grow these cold-weather crops.

Coffee is an easy crop to grow. It is resistant to pests and thrives in the shade, allowing it to be grown alongside other crops and in forested regions. The plants do not require regular manuring, and the weed needs to be cleared only once every few months, which is then deposited back as natural fertiliser. When the coffee beans ripen, they occasionally attract monkeys, civets, and even elephants. “With no permanent solution to the animal attacks, we have made peace with these visits,” said Kumaravel Mannadiyil, who maintains a 1.5-acre coffee farm. Despite their hardy nature, coffee plants are susceptible to two things: unpredictable rain and unscrupulous middlemen.

Changing rain patterns

The region used to experience a unique phenomenon known as Noolmazha, thread-thin raindrops exclusive to certain areas (e.g. Wayanad) in the Western Ghats. The raindrops are thread-thin, like spun in a spinning wheel, also giving it the name ‘40 Number Rain’ (No. 40 yarn is generally thinner and finer). Noolmazha lasted for parts of the summer monsoon and helped coffee plants grow well. It kept things cool enough for the coffee flowers to turn into beans without getting ruined by heavy downpours. However, farmers from both regions have noted that Noolmazha has disappeared almost entirely.

“While it is still early to say whether there is a major change in the annual rainfall in Kerala, it is noticed that the number of rainy days is fewer in a year, leading to heavier rains during a short period,” said YEA Raj, retired director general of the India Meteorological Department. 

As coffee is not grown in conventional farming fields, it depends entirely on rain. The timing, intensity, and duration of rainfall are crucial. “If the rain does not favour us in a year, then the production from a single coffee plant can fall from an average of 10 kilos to as low as 3 kilos,” said Kumaravel.

For Keezhanthoor, coffee has become a crucial source of livelihood. Of the 240 families in Keezhanthoor, around 200 cultivate coffee as their primary crop, each holding between one and three acres of land. In a good year, they yield up to 8,000 kgs per acre.

Small-scale farmers lack the resources and networks to find optimal buyers or access markets to sell their harvest. Until the early 2000s, the Kanthalloor co-operative bank supported the farmers by directly collecting the crop and ensuring a fair price, including a bonus later if the crop was sold for a considerably higher price. However, the bank withdrew from that role, forcing coffee farmers to rely on middlemen for more than a decade. 

If the rain does not favour us in a year, then the production from a single coffee plant can fall from an average of 10 kilos to as low as 3 kilos

Turning point

In 2014, the Manarcadu Social Service Society (MASS), a cooperative group committed to Fairtrade and organic products, stepped in. MASS revitalized the local procurement process. Under the cooperative bank and middlemen, Keezhanthoor coffee had little to no marketing. Now, the coffee processed by MASS is marketed and exported by Plantich, an agribusiness company in Kerala. Annually, approximately 60 tons of Keezhanthoor coffee are exported worldwide, primarily to Canada, the USA, and Germany.

Before 2014, farmers had to dry and extract seeds from coffee fruits before selling them to the lone cooperative bank or middlemen. The process was challenging as the harvest occurs in November and December, when heavy mist and fog make drying and seed extraction difficult. Now, the cooperative transports the fruits to its center in Andipatty, a hotter region in Tamil Nadu, for drying and seed extraction in a factory. MASS also provides the farmers with organic fertilisers like cow dung, oil cakes (punakku), and lime powder (kummayam). “Despite the challenges, we did not resort to using chemical fertilisers,” said Kumaravel.

As climate change continues to threaten agricultural yields, sustained support from organisations like MASS is vital for the resilience of small-scale farming communities. The story of Keezhanthoor coffee serves as a reminder of the power of cooperation and adaptability in the face of environmental and economic challenges.