The fragile future of Guchi mushrooms

What’s behind the decline in morels

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Dec 13, 2024
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“I don't know how we will survive this year,” said Tanveer Ahmad, 38, sitting in his lawn. His eyes scanned the horizon, waiting for the buyer who would take this year’s meagre harvest of morel mushrooms–his only source of income.

For Tanveer, these few kilograms are all that stand between his family and hunger. But with production in decline, his future looks increasingly precarious.

“Just a few years ago, I could collect 8-10 kilograms of dried morels by the season’s end. Now, it’s barely 2-3 kilograms,” he said. The drop has forced him to seek alternative jobs, including manual labour in nearby towns.

Since childhood, Tanveer has trekked high into the peaks with his father to collect morels, a tradition that sustained their family for generations. “The decline of these mushrooms scares thousands of collectors like me,” he added.

A few years ago, it was possible to collect 8–10 kilograms of dried morels by the end of the season, but now it's barely 2–3 kilograms. Credit: Najma Zahoor

Shrinking harvest

Locally called Guchi, morel mushrooms are some of the rarest and most expensive edible fungi in the world. Found in the Himalayan regions of Jammu and Kashmir, Himachal Pradesh, and Uttarakhand, they are highly prized in gourmet cooking.

With their unique spongy texture, rich aroma, and distinct flavour, morels are a favourite among chefs. Their rarity adds to their appeal, fetching prices as high as Rs 3,000–40,000 (about USD 36–USD480) per kilogram.

But these mushrooms now face a serious threat to their survival.

Morel mushrooms mark the arrival of spring for us. But this year, due to the dry weather patterns, the harvest was poor.

South Asia is grappling with a 2°C rise in temperature, and the ripple effects are being felt in the delicate ecosystems where morels thrive. Collectors across the Himalayan region report a steep decline in production, sending ripples of concern through food enthusiasts, chefs and conservationists.

The Guchi mushroom, scientifically known as Morchella and part of the Morchellaceae family, relies on specific climatic conditions to flourish. Rising temperatures, erratic weather patterns and environmental degradation are disrupting these conditions, threatening the mushroom’s natural habitat.

For communities like Tanveer’s, the decline is more than an environmental issue–it’s a direct blow to their livelihoods. As morels grow scarcer, the traditional knowledge and cultural practices surrounding their collection are at risk of fading into oblivion.

Can the Himalayan regions and their communities adapt to a warming world, or will the Guchi mushroom–and the traditions it sustains–become a relic of the past?

Lay of the land

Rising temperatures and erratic weather patterns, fueled by climate change, are making the Himalayas less hospitable. Typically found in wooded areas or sandy flats near water, these fungi signal the arrival of spring in Jammu and Kashmir. 

“Morel mushrooms mark the arrival of spring for us. But this year, due to the dry weather patterns, the harvest was poor," said Bashir Ahmad, a resident of Pathkot Bandipor.

The secret to morel growth lies in specific soil conditions, reliant on sufficient moisture from snowmelt. Prolonged dry spells and dwindling snowfall have disrupted this delicate balance, spelling trouble for morel harvesters.

“Earlier, we used to collect 5–6 kilograms of mushrooms in a season from February to April. This year, my brother and I barely managed 1.5 kilograms in three to four months,” said Fayaz Ahmad from Bandipora district.

The numbers paint a stark picture. Data from Jammu and Kashmir's forest Departments 2018-19 Digest of forest statistics reveals that morel production has plummeted from 200 tons in 1991 to just 8.8 tons in 2018–19. 

Kitchen confidential

Morel mushrooms aren’t just a local treat—they’re prized worldwide for their medicinal benefits and unique flavour. Chefs use them to enhance dishes, adding them to sauces, soups and risottos. Their meaty, earthy taste has earned them a spot in gourmet kitchens, often compared to truffles for their rarity and culinary value.

In Kashmir, one type of morel is served with traditional dishes and is considered a luxurious addition to the famous Kashmiri wazwan feast.

However, as scarcity drives prices sky-high, their presence in everyday cuisine is dwindling. “The rising prices of Guchi mushrooms have forced us to limit their use. It has become a luxury food reserved for special events or guests,” said Sameer Ahmad, a chef from Budgam district who specialises in Kashmiri cuisine.

The soaring price of morels has also created a booming trade. Locals trek for hours into dense forests to hand-pick these mushrooms, which are then sun-dried or smoked for preservation. Even a few grams can fetch thousands of rupees in markets across India and abroad.

Challenges

Dr Bilal, an expert from Krishi Vigyan Kendra Gurez, explained how climate change is affecting crop production, particularly in the Himalayas.

"Earlier, we saw bumper harvests of naturally grown products, but now the impact of climate change is evident on the ground. Mushrooms that were once sold for Rs 10,000 per kilogram are now priced at Rs 30,000. With growing demand in national and international markets, the decline in morel mushroom production is hurting the livelihoods of thousands involved in its trade," he said.

Meanwhile, the high demand and lucrative prices are reducing the availability of spores, threatening future growth.

Many collectors do not leave behind a single mushroom to regenerate for the next season, which is crucial for maintaining their population.

Brakat Hussain, an official from Sher-e-Kashmir University of Agricultural Science and Technology, emphasised the dangers of overharvesting. "Many collectors do not leave behind a single mushroom to regenerate for the next season, which is crucial for maintaining their population," he said. "We don’t have enough scientific research or concrete evidence to prove that rising temperatures are directly affecting morel mushroom production. It could be an assumption, but it also reflects the traditional knowledge of farmers who work closely with the land. Farmers' opinions are valuable because they learn through experience."

Hussain also highlighted how human activity is disrupting natural cycles. "In the past, these mushrooms were found in wild, undisturbed areas. But as populations have grown, people began living at higher altitudes and building homes, which has interfered with these ecosystems," he said.

Morels require specific conditions to thrive, such as adequate rainfall, lightning, and moisture-rich soil. "If these conditions are irregular, it might explain the changes in their growth," he added.

Balancing act

Unlike commercially grown mushrooms, morels are notoriously difficult to cultivate due to their complex growth requirements. However, experts believe that integrating mushroom cultivation into agroforestry systems could offer a solution. This approach could reduce the pressure on wild populations and mitigate the impact of deforestation.

As the demand for morels continues to grow, so does the urgency to adopt sustainable practices. For the communities who depend on these mushrooms, the stakes are clear: without action, a treasured resource–and a way of life–may disappear forever.

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Written by
Tauseef Ahmad

Freelance journalist based in Kashmir, covering conflict, food, climate change, environment, and society, with work featured in outlets like Mongabay India, Fair Planet, Down to Earth, and more.

Co-author
Mohammad Aatif Ammad Kanth

I am a Kashmir-based journalist covering finance, economics, and the environment, with work featured in Article-14, Down To Earth, and more.

Edited By
Ebin Gheevarghese

Making stories digestible. Curious about crops & climate.

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As per statistics morel production has plummeted from 200 tons in 1991 to how much in 2018–19?

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