Om Prakash and Premkali, landless workers in the dalit hamlet of Mohatra (Banda district, Uttar Pradesh) were becoming increasingly tense as food stocks dwindled rapidly and moneylenders harassed them for repaying loans. Their biggest worry was how to feed their three young children.

Like many other Dalits in their village and nearby areas, they accepted an advance from a labour contractor and ended up working at a distant brick kiln in Gwalior, bringing their children along.

At the brick kiln, Prakash and Kali worked tirelessly, but things took a turn when Prakash fell ill. As his condition worsened, the owner told the whole family to leave immediately. In the scorching heat of May, Premkali somehow managed to get a rickshaw to take all five of them to the Gwalior railway station, but Om Prakash died on the way. On finding her crying uncontrollably, some railway and police officials arranged for them to be sent to their village with the dead body.

Now back in the village, Premkali has no idea how she'll raise her children. All the families there are landless, with limited employment opportunities locally – and even those pay very little. As a result, many are forced to migrate to distant places, often facing unsafe and exploitative working conditions.

Worker’s plight

Delhi is a major destination for migrant workers. At various labour chowks, workers gather to find daily wage jobs. Talking to some of them, I learned that newer migrants often live together in rented rooms and don't have access to subsidised food or other benefits available to most city residents. When I asked why they have not made use of the government's recent decision to make village ration cards operational in cities too, they said that this may exist on paper, but ration dealers do not accept this.

Things got worse for these migrant workers when the lockdown was announced during the pandemic. With no food reserves and no money for rent, they were forced to walk hundreds of miles back to their villages.

Pappu from Naugawa said he walked about 800 km from Surat to his village in Banda district. He reached here in 26 days, then spent another 15 miserable days in quarantine. Bhaiyaram Lakshman, from the same village, walked from Hyderabad but managed to get some lifts along the way, reaching home in 15 days with swollen, blistered feet. Karim Chacha said his four sons, who worked in Hyderabad, walked the entire way back to the village. During quarantine, these workers had to be fed by their families, even though their families were already struggling with hunger themselves.

Community support

In Bhanwarpur village, Butu broke down as he talked about the struggles his three sons faced walking all the way from Delhi with a larger group. I also met some families, including young children, who had walked about 500 km from Delhi, occasionally getting lifts along the way.

Their hardships were eased somewhat by food and other supplies provided by a voluntary group, Vidyadham Samiti (VDS). This organisation also helped some of the migrant workers return to farming their small, neglected plots. In an inspiring effort, around 50 Dalits from Bhanwarpur, including many women, formed a committee to partially revive a small river, improving farming opportunities and increasing crop yields.

While supporting these efforts, VDS has also called for better implementation of rural employment programs under NREGA, so that even landless workers have better chances of survival in their villages.

As Raja Bhaiya, the coordinator of VDS, says, "Migration will still happen, but we can work to make sure people aren't so helpless that they have to accept any kind of exploitation. With better farming, kitchen gardens, land for the landless, water conservation, and improved implementation of NREGA and other government programs, we should ensure that people won't go hungry, even if they stay in their village. This will improve their terms even when they go out for work."

Forced migration

In other words, workers shouldn't be forced to migrate due to poverty and hunger, which pushes them into accepting exploitative conditions. But right now, many villages face this harsh reality. One particularly heartbreaking story I heard during a drought was about a woman who didn't want to leave with her husband because their young daughter was very sick. However, her husband convinced her, saying they had to go or they'd have no food. She reluctantly agreed, holding her baby close. Sadly, just a few miles into their bus journey, the baby passed away, and the couple had to return to arrange the funeral.

Extreme hunger and deprivation, worsened by frequent droughts, hailstorms, floods, and other disasters linked to climate change, must be addressed. To fix this, we need programs focused on justice and equality. Unfortunately, land reforms and distributing land to the landless have been almost forgotten. There's plenty of land that could be given to the landless simply by removing illegal encroachments by powerful people, but this has been ignored. In addition, of course, protection measures for migrant workers should be better implemented.

Worker protection

At a recent meeting of Chingari, a leading women's organisation in Banda district and nearby areas, women from poor rural households strongly demanded that the local labour department register all outgoing workers. They called for a system that helps workers facing exploitation or bondage in distant places by providing assistance, including rescue operations. Helplines and similar services could be set up, as they have in some areas. Although several laws and policies already exist to protect migrant workers, they haven't been properly enforced.

An overlooked issue is the elderly parents or grandparents left behind in villages, often without enough food or basic necessities. In some cases, children are also left behind to live in difficult conditions with elderly relatives who are unable to care for them properly.

The situation for children who travel with their parents to work sites like brick kilns can be extremely harsh, especially for girls who are more vulnerable to sexual exploitation. In one tragic case I reported, a teenage girl had migrated with her mother and brother. When her employer attempted to molest her, her brother stepped in to defend her and was killed. The girl was so traumatised that she would faint whenever the incident was discussed. Despite several efforts to seek justice, nothing had been achieved by the time of reporting.

Incidents like this emphasise the urgent need for widespread justice and development programs in villages where workers are at risk of falling into exploitative migrant labour. Providing land to the poorest families, helping them cultivate it, and ensuring better implementation of NREGA and other government programs are essential steps to prevent such tragedies.

In 1994, Dr Anurag Goel and Dr Sujata Goel who worked in a research lab in Delhi made a decision to trade the confines of urban Delhi life for Kodagu slowness. Heading towards South India, they landed on the piece of neglected land and decided to build it organically. 

The Goels have established a model that integrates agroecology to preserve the local flora and fauna. They are focused on growing coffee and nurturing the space organically to minimise harm to the land and ecosystem, both of which are currently at risk from chemical fertilisers.

We visited their farm in Madikeri to learn about the insights and experiences they've gathered over the past three decades.

Experience with ecology

You’ve been here for 30 years, but that wasn’t the initial plan. How has the experience of living with nature been, as researchers, as farmers, and as a couple?

Anurag: The first few years were tough. We didn’t know a single person in South India—we just came and settled. We started in a rented place before finding this land. Initially, we wanted a place with a house to make the move easier. But when we saw the wilderness and streams, we fell in love with this place, even though it had no infrastructure.

The first 5-7 years were challenging, especially financially. When you buy land, you have to survive off it. There was a small amount of income from cardamom growing here, which we replanted and supplemented with other crops. We introduced vanilla and diversified as much as we could while preserving the canopy, which was our goal—to find a balance between nature and agriculture.

Sujata: Being lab people, we faced many challenges. We knew nothing about growing cardamom, coffee, or pepper. Our focus was on species that thrive under rainforest canopies. We did a crash course with two excellent scientists from the Indian Institute of Spice Research. We toured Coorg, observing both the best and worst plantations, to understand how these crops are cultivated.

Wherever we went, they recommended numerous applications of pesticides and fungicides, warning that otherwise, we wouldn’t have a crop at the end of the season.

At first, we followed existing practices, but we soon realised that the beauty and fragility of this landscape were being destroyed by the agrochemicals being pumped into the fields. That’s when our journey took a turn towards organic farming.
_{- Dr Sujata Goel}

Anurag: Ironically, the scientists who initially told us that organic farming wouldn’t work for cardamom or coffee are now promoting it. We’ve proven it’s possible, and others are doing it too.

Were you afraid to make the big move?

Anurag: I wasn’t afraid of nature. In fact, I find city life, especially in Delhi, more intimidating. People are much more difficult to deal with. Also, you don't have a lot of crime here.

The more you interact with nature, the more familiar and less threatening it becomes. You realise that you’re more of a threat to wildlife than it is to you.

Sujata: Wildlife is smarter than us. They move away at night. We often take night walks, but wildlife isn’t always easy to spot because of our vibrations. We’ve never had accidents except when our dog once stuck his head into a porcupine den and got quills in his face. It’s rare, but we’ve never had any serious mishaps.

Has living close to nature changed your perception of life and how you interact with people?

Anurag: In some ways, people are antithetical to nature. Nature is harmonious, but people are complex, with intricate social structures and interactions.

Sujata: You become more accepting of things as they are. Initially, we tried to change things or make them more efficient. But over time, you realise that some things you can change, while others you must accept and deal with the consequences.

What’s the difference between organic farming and ecological farming?

Anurag: Organic farming typically involves open fields and the use of manure. Ecological farming, or agroecology, is more about fitting into a forest-like environment. You’re trying to harmonise with nature, whereas organic farming involves ploughing fields and adding compost in a more conventional setting.

Sujata: There are many approaches to moving away from conventional, chemical farming, all initially lumped under organic farming. But there are various dimensions, like biodynamic and natural farming, all focused on sustainability. Ecology comes into play when you align farming practices with natural cycles.

What changes have you noticed over the years? 

Anurag: We’ve allowed our forests and canopies to grow back, and as a result, we’ve noticed an increase in biodiversity. For example, there are now hundreds of Malabar gliding frogs and small gliding frogs living in the area, when before we would only see one or two at a time. We even built a tank near the house to help them grow and thrive.

The canopy cover has helped attract birds to our area, and we’re seeing more small animals like barking deer. This is likely because hunting isn’t as common anymore since young people have moved to cities and have less time for it.

But in the last 10 years, I’ve noticed a drastic decline in insects. In the past, we couldn’t leave the windows open because so many insects would fly in. Now, we can leave the door open all night and only a few insects will come in. 

I've noticed that the resident birds have increased, but I see fewer of the local migratory ones. For example, birds like the paradise flycatcher and the golden orioles. Several species used to come to this region after the monsoons and leave before the next monsoons, but now there are far fewer. I think there's a decline in the bird population overall in India. 

Sujata: One thing we've done is to leave some areas around guest houses more natural, letting native plants like Anthuriums grow. This keeps the landscaping low-maintenance and supports local biodiversity, which people can see up close near their residencies.

Anurag: We're also seeing changes related to climate change. Trees that used to flower at certain times are now off by a couple of months. For example, our avocado trees usually flower in October or November, but this year, they’re flowering a few months later. These might seem like small changes, but they could lead to bigger problems.

On sustainability

People often think that organic farming is just a hobby for the rich—something you do when you have other income and want to eat healthy. Is organic farming really viable? 

Anurag: This perception exists because there hasn’t been much research on organic farming in the last 50-100 years. Organic farming is better for the soil and more sustainable in the long run. Conventional farming, on the other hand, focuses on short-term goals and harms the soil and environment—just look at what happened in Punjab.

People are finding innovative ways to make organic farming viable. If you decide to switch to organic farming and just stop using urea without making other changes, your yields will drop, and you could face financial problems.

During the transition, you need to replace urea with compost, cow urine, cow dung, and other preparations like jeevamrut to feed the plants. All plants need the same nutrients, like nitrogen and minerals. The old perception of organic farming is wrong, and it's changing now.

Sujata: Over the years, we’ve visited many farms, not just in our country but around the world, and we’ve never seen an organic farm with poor yields. The crops are always abundant, whether it's in the UK, South America, Africa, or India. Organic farmers never complain about their yields—they only deal with challenges from extreme weather, which can affect the harvest. But that’s something we just have to live with.

One way to handle this is by diversifying crops to make farming more economically viable. Our farm is small, so to add value, we don't just sell our products as raw goods. If we grow coffee, we roast it and sell it as beans or powder. For cardamom, we grade, clean, and package it before selling. It takes a bit more work, but the added value makes up for the extra effort in terms of income.

I read in your book that animal husbandry is key to making organic farming sustainable. Can you explain why and what else can help?

Anurag: To have a successful organic farm, animals are essential because they complete the natural cycle. Animals like cows provide dung and urine, which are sources of nitrogen. Otherwise, you'd need to bring that in from outside. We keep cows and goats, and we used to have chickens, too, because their manure is also great.

Sujata: We have high-quality cow dung, which goes through our biogas composting system to make our own compost. It’s rich and smells pleasant, and that’s what we use to feed our plants. In the past, small farms always included some form of animal husbandry, but maintaining livestock is difficult, so many farms have moved away from it.

Can you share a couple of things you've learned here?

Anurag: One thing I've learned is about Trichoderma, a beneficial fungus that naturally exists in soils and helps fight pests. If you use fungicides, you kill Trichoderma, and when you spray pesticides, you kill everything in the soil. Once people realised how helpful Trichoderma is, they started growing and adding it to their farms. There's also another fungus called Beauveria that attacks insect pests. I once saw a large Hawk Moth with Beauveria growing on it. This fungus can break down insects and act as a natural pest repellent.

Sujata: There are many examples like this when you go into the biology of these systems. For instance, there are saprophytes, fungi that grow on decaying matter. They secrete enzymes that rapidly break down organic matter, sometimes overnight, making nutrients and minerals more available to plants.

We clear weeds only near cardamom or coffee plants but leave the rest. We don't uproot them; we just slash them so their roots stay intact. These roots provide biomass and host natural microbes like fungi and bacteria that break down organic matter and return it to the soil.

The entire ion exchange capacity, the nutrient availability, goes high. Just look at a forest—there’s no input from us, yet the trees are massive. How do they thrive? The ecosystem already has everything in place. Our goal is to fit our agriculture into this natural system, allowing us to be productive in a sustainable way.

Our goal is to fit our agriculture into this natural system, allowing us to be productive in a sustainable way.
_{- Dr Sujata Goel}

Takeaway

What key message do you want to leave with others?

Anurag: When individuals and groups come together, it’s much more rewarding. Otherwise, it's a constant struggle. Organic farmers don't get subsidies, while conventional farming does.

Sujata: It's crucial for organic farmers to build a network because we’re still a minority. People need to understand the importance of eliminating chemicals—they're harmful to wildlife and to us.

Many large-scale chemical farmers keep a small portion of their land organic for their own use, while the rest, grown conventionally, goes to market. I question their ethics, but people do what they feel they need to do. They know chemicals are a health risk, but unless a whole area commits to going chemical-free, toxins will keep spreading.

We’re fortunate that large-scale chemical farming hasn’t taken over here. Agrochemical use is minimal, with urea being the only exception in some conventional farms. Pesticides and fungicides are rarely used here, even during the monsoon season.

But heavy rainfall presents its own challenges. So, I ask you and anyone listening—what will it take for people to stop using toxins? Working together is crucial; nothing works in isolation.

We have the resources to spark a mass movement, but it needs to start with consumers. When they begin demanding better, cleaner food, change will follow. Unfortunately, most government policies seem focused on helping corporations take over agriculture, and that’s the sad truth.

(Image Credits: Sreejith M, Nevin T, Harshith V)

As the sun rises over Srinivaspura, the air fills with the sweet aroma of ripening mangoes. This small town in Karnataka's Kolar district isn’t just another dot on the map; it's India’s Mango City. 

Decades of cultivating some of the world's finest mangoes have earned it this title. The town's name, derived from Srinivasa (a name for Vishnu) and pura (meaning town), reflects its rich cultural and historical roots.

Mango varieties

‍Srinivaspura boasts over 63 mango varieties, with Totapuri leading the pack, followed by Mallika, Alphonso, and Badami. These mangoes make their way to Europe and the Arab world. Totapuri mangoes are largely processed—80% go into juice, tetra packs, frozen fruit, and squash, while just 20% are eaten fresh. Thanks to the high pulp recovery, they are often blended with premium varieties for fragrance, offering a cost-effective solution.

Historically, mango cultivation has been the backbone of Srinivaspura’s economy. The APMC (Agricultural Produce Market Committee) has been vital in facilitating mango trade, offering a structured marketplace where farmers sell their produce.

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The role of rain

Rainfall plays a crucial role in ensuring a successful mango crop in Srinivaspura. Pre-flowering rain from November to January promotes healthy blossoms, while the southwest monsoon, from June to September, replenishes groundwater and keeps soil moisture levels high. Well-timed rains produce larger, juicier mangoes bursting with sweetness. They also help control pests and diseases that flourish in dry conditions.

A day at the market

Step into one of India’s busiest mango markets, where 600,000 quintals of fruit are traded annually. The peak season runs from mid-May to mid-June, with three main marketing yards handling the crop: one private, one run by APMC, and one operated by the mango growers’ association. 

Hundreds of trucks and tractors transport mangoes across India, reaching places like Andhra Pradesh, Rajasthan, Gujarat, Goa, Maharashtra, and Bengaluru.

Mango auctions

In the market, buyers inspect each mango before placing their bids, basing prices on the fruit’s size, variety, and quality. These varieties are typically available from April to June, though some may last beyond the mango season.

Packing process

• Sorting: Mangoes are sorted based on size, colour, and quality to ensure the best condition for consumers. Damaged or overripe fruits are removed, leaving only high-quality mangoes for packing.
• Packing: The sorted mangoes are packed in corrugated cardboard boxes or crates, designed to provide both ventilation and protection during transit. Each box contains mangoes of similar size and grade for consistency.
• Labelling: Packages are labelled with essential details like mango type, grade, weight, and sometimes the packaging date. Branding from exporters or local cooperatives may also be included.
• Distribution: Once packed, the mangoes are loaded onto trucks or other vehicles for delivery to local markets, across states, or even for export overseas.
• High-Volume Handling: The packing process in Srinivaspura is optimised to manage large quantities of mangoes during the peak season, ensuring the fruits arrive in excellent condition.

Showstopper: Banganapalli

Meet the Banganapalli mango—medium to large, golden yellow, and irresistibly delicious. 

• Geographical indication (GI): Recognised with a GI tag for its unique characteristics, this mango variety originates from Banaganapalle in the Kurnool district of Andhra Pradesh, India.
• Size & shape: Medium to large, typically weighing 350 to 400 grams, with an oblong shape and a slightly pointed base.
• Appearance: Smooth, thin skin with a golden-yellow colour and a slight sheen, sometimes dotted with small white spots.
• Flavour & popularity: Known for its sweet taste, smooth texture, and delightful aroma, the Banganapalli mango is a favourite both in India and globally.
• Alternate names: Also called Benishan or Banaganapalle.
• Exports: Due to its exceptional taste and long shelf life, Banganapalli mangoes are widely exported, playing a significant role in India's mango exports.
• Nutrition: Rich in vitamins A and C, they provide essential nutrients, antioxidants, and dietary fibre, supporting digestion and gut health.

Going organic

Traders in the Srinivaspura market voiced concerns about the practicality of going fully organic. They cite the lack of government support in educating farmers on organic practices. Additionally, the higher costs associated with organic cultivation could reduce public demand.

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Need for a factory

Traders also point out the need for a local factory. Without one, they face difficulties in sending their products to states like Maharashtra, where processing plants exist.

A factory would process mangoes into pulp, juice, dried slices, pickles, and jams, extending the fruit's shelf life and reducing post-harvest losses. This would not only increase profits but also boost the local economy by attracting businesses and creating demand for transportation, packaging, and marketing services. By producing packaged and branded mango products, a factory could help Srinivaspura tap into both domestic and international markets.

Amrit Lal, a Bhil tribal farmer from Bhundri village in Rajasthan's Banswara district, faced a harsh reality when prolonged drought forced him to work as a migrant labourer in distant cities. His farm, neglected in his absence, deteriorated. What was meant to be a temporary shift seemed to become permanent, despite the exploitative conditions and Amrit's dissatisfaction with urban work.

During a brief visit home, members of the voluntary organisation Vaagdhara approached Amrit. They offered support if he wanted to return to rural life. Amrit welcomed this opportunity and seized it.

Revival of farm

A few years later, Amrit's two-acre farm is thriving with diverse crops, particularly vegetables and fruits. He's known for his dedication to natural farming and tree planting, inspiring local environmental efforts. His work earned him the Ummedpur Lodh Environmental Award. Both Amrit and his wife Surta are happy with their return to rural life and are determined to continue improving their farm.

Vaagdhara's role

Amrit is one of many farmers Vaagdhara has helped transition from migrant labour back to sustainable rural livelihoods. Jayesh Joshi, the coordinator of Vaagdhara, said the organisation’s efforts focus on rediscovering and strengthening the traditional food and farming systems of Bhil and related tribal communities.

Vaagdhara works with tribal communities in about 100 rural settlements across Rajasthan, Madhya Pradesh, and Gujarat. When Vaagdhara began its work two decades ago, the organisation invested time in understanding the local people, their strengths, and their needs. 

Historical challenges

Participatory research revealed that the tribal communities were familiar with a rich variety of crops, including 26 cereals (such as millets), 28 roots and tubers, 40 vegetables, and 45 fruits. Their traditional farming system was marked by circularity, minimising waste, and maintaining soil fertility. After spending a lot of time with these communities, activists realised that their problems weren't because they were doing something wrong, instead, were caused by outside influences that had damaged their traditional ways of doing things.

Colonial rule and local kingdoms exploited these communities. Despite revolts led by respected figures like Govind Guru, the sustainable traditional system continued to erode.

Independence brought some relief, but new bureaucracies often misunderstood and undervalued traditional systems, equating them with backwardness. They imposed technologies like those of the Green Revolution, which were unsuitable and led to debt, further reducing the communities’ ability to cope with droughts, and forcing many into exploitative migrant labour.

Promoting tradition

In consultation with local communities, Vaagdhara sought to revive the strengths of traditional farming systems, including soil conservation practices and mixed farming. Scientific analysis confirmed the nutritional richness of the leafy and other vegetables traditionally used by the tribal communities, increasing the confidence in their time-honoured practices.

Saving traditional seeds of various crops, including millets, is a key focus for these communities. Over the years, this work has gained momentum as people realise its importance. This June, the efforts peaked with a seeds festival, held across about 90 decentralised meetings in different village clusters. Farmers brought their saved traditional seeds to these gatherings, discussing the benefits and features of different varieties and exchanging seeds with one another. 

While all the farmers were enthusiastic, women were especially excited since they have traditionally been responsible for seed-saving and possess extensive knowledge about it. Many participants suggested making the seeds festival an annual event.

Earlier, a traditional food festival was organised with the active involvement of women and children. Held at the village level, these meetings highlighted the high nutritional quality of traditional foods and the need to protect them from the onslaught of junk food. Recipes combining taste and nutrition were shared, and dishes were cooked on the spot, delighting the children in particular.

The spread of natural farming has been crucial in reviving traditional farming strengths, significantly reducing costs and improving the quality of produce.

Empowering women

Women have responded positively to these initiatives. Empowerment groups, or saksham samoohs, have been established in several villages to advance sustainable livelihoods for women. Kanchan, the coordinator of one such group in Nagli Sera village (Banswara district), says they meet regularly to discuss how to advance village development collectively. Susheela, a group member, notes that apart from salt and edible oil, they meet all their food needs within the village. Kanku Bai is particularly skilled in identifying and saving various seeds.

This movement is part of a broader vision rooted in the concept of gram swaraj, which seeks to make villages as self-reliant as possible in meeting their food, farming, and other needs. The approach traces its origins to Mahatma Gandhi’s emphasis on self-reliant rural communities during the freedom movement. Organisations like Vaagdhara are now taking this forward in contemporary contexts by emphasising natural farming, mixed cropping with millets, fruits, and vegetables, and the use of non-cultivated foods.

This approach not only provides more nutritious and safe food but also reduces farmers’ costs, shielding them from debt. Mixed cropping and non-cultivated foods are also vital assets during droughts. This system is well-suited for climate change adaptation and, with its focus on reducing fossil fuel use, increasing tree cover, and improving soil organic content, also supports climate change mitigation.

Apoorva BV is on a mission to protect some of the world’s smallest, yet most important, creatures: honey bees. His journey started with a childhood curiosity, one that grew with the guidance of his mentor, Shanth Veeraiah S M. Over time, that interest turned into a mission to reconnect people with nature.
Sixteen years ago, he left his career in engineering to pursue his passion for beekeeping. Today, as the founder of Kodagu Bee Farm and the Hive Trust, he leads India’s urban beekeeping movement.
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During peak season, his phone rings constantly, sometimes up to 200 times a day. But these calls aren’t panicked requests to remove bees. People now want to learn how to live with them!
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In Bengaluru, he’s helped hundreds of people turn their rooftops into bee-friendly spaces. But Apoorva’s mission goes further. He’s raising awareness about the global decline in insect populations and what that means for our food. He’s also challenging the honey industry to clean up its practices and promoting beekeeping as a vital part of small-scale farming.
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As Apoorva looks back on his journey, it’s clear how far he’s come from that first spark.

Misconceptions and experience

Q. How did you get into beekeeping?

A. In my third year of engineering, I started beekeeping as a hobby. After that, I travelled across the country to study successful beekeeping models. I returned to Bangalore and started both a beekeeping and supplies business in 2014.

Q. Can you explain the misconceptions people have about bees and beekeeping?

A. The main misconception is fear, and that’s something we need to address. Beyond fear, there are other aspects of bees that we have overlooked for ages.

We live in a subtropical country, surrounded by bees and snakes. Right now, there are about 300 pairs of eyes watching me, but I’m not watching them. Just because we haven’t observed them doesn’t mean they aren’t there. 

There are some minor misconceptions too. For example, people say that during full moon nights, bees will come, and on Amavasya (new moon), they will leave. In reality, bees migrate to specific ecosystems whenever they need food, mating opportunities, shelter, and nesting habitats.

Q. What does a day with bees look like for you?

A. By 5.30 am, they start foraging, around the same time birds begin to chirp. They collect nectar, pollen, and water, which are essential for the colony’s sustainability. Around noon, they return because when the sun is directly overhead, it affects their navigation.

After 12 pm, they assess natural conditions—if it’s too hot, they won’t venture out. If the temperature exceeds 33-35 degrees Celsius, the foragers stay back and fan their wings to control the temperature.

They instinctively know which trees and plants blossom in the morning and evening and where they can collect more nectar. They use natural instincts to tell time and even use pheromones to navigate.

At night, they don’t sleep like us. When there’s no navigation or foraging outside, they stay busy with other tasks like wax production, organising food for easy access, and converting nectar into honey. Bees never sleep, which is why they’re called busy bees.

Q. In your experience as a beekeeper, can you emphasise how important bees are for our ecosystem?

A. Bees are considered keystone species. When bees are present in an ecosystem and are able to pollinate, everything else begins to flourish. Bees are responsible for about 86% of pollination on earth, which is why we have such a variety of fruits, vegetables, and even wild plants. This is why we say pollination is a primary service. The presence of bees signifies the sustainability, and biodiversity of an ecosystem.

For a farmer, integrating bees into their farm ecosystem is crucial because it’s the only way to ensure reliable pollination.

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Identifying good honey

Q. What are some key characteristics to look for when identifying high-quality honey?

A. Honey is one of the most contaminated foods in the world because it’s difficult to collect and harvest. Worker bees require suitable conditions to convert nectar into honey.

We have the Western Ghats, Eastern Ghats, Deccan region, Himalayan biosphere, desert flora, and a coastline. With this diversity, we have over 3,000 varieties of honey.

There are plants in the Western Ghats that bloom during the monsoon, producing honey so bitter that even a spoonful is difficult to eat. Some varieties of honey from wild flora are naturally sour, while sunflower honey is very sweet.

When I offer sunflower honey to people from the Western Ghats, they often reject it as impure, assuming I’m trying to cheat them. To them, their local honey is the only pure honey.

I’ve tasted many varieties of honey and have memories of all those flavours. I can judge honey to a certain extent. But what about the average consumer who has only tasted the honey available in stores?

Consumers need to understand how honey is made and should participate in the process. They should step out of their comfort zones and learn about the efforts farmers make to harvest honey. Adulteration is widespread, and only scientific laboratory tests can identify impurities. It can’t be tested in the kitchen.

Q. Can honey truly last forever if stored properly, or is this just a myth?

A. Honey contains high concentrations of sugars, which prevent bacterial growth. While you may observe some bacteria under a microscope, they remain dormant and cannot multiply or function. However, if honey is exposed to moisture, there is a risk of yeast cells multiplying. After use, make sure the lid is tightly closed to avoid exposure to atmospheric moisture, as it may cause fermentation.

In Egypt, edible honey was discovered that was more than 1,000-2,000 years old. This indicates that honey has no fixed shelf life and can be consumed if properly maintained and stored.

Q. Is there any difference between wild honey and the honey we get from boxes?

A. Wild or forest honey is considered a tribal right. Tribals are gatherers who climb trees and hunt for honey, a process known as honey hunting, not beekeeping. They use smoke, cut the entire comb, and extract honey predominantly from a species called Apis dorsata. They also collect honey from Apis cerana, but in very small quantities.

During harvesting, if the comb falls and touches the soil, it may be handled with bare hands. Due to these factors, it is called wild honey. To access it, we must purchase it from their society. We should not casually use terms like ‘wild’ and ‘forest’ for honey.

Some brands market their products as forest honey, but this practice is not sustainable due to climate change and competition. When you visit a store, you may find jars labelled as forest honey alongside others. Naturally, you may be inclined to choose the forest honey. Increased demand leads tribals, who once collected only minimal quantities of honey for their sustainable lifestyle, to collect more.

Moreover, there is no system to monitor how bees are treated in the forest. Tribals are the primary custodians of the forest. They were protecting it long before departments and ministries were established.

Q. Is there a noticeable difference in taste or consistency in wild honey?

A. Yes, because Apis dorsata can forage up to six to eight kilometers, while Apis cerana can forage up to 500 meters to one kilometer. This difference in foraging range results in variations in floral sources, which in turn affects the taste of the honey.

Another factor is that when honey is collected by these gatherers, it is often squeezed rather than centrifuged. Sometimes they squeeze out stored pollen, which may be slightly fermented, or laurel water gets mixed up. These factors also influence the taste.

Decline and conservation

Q. Can you provide some numbers on the decline in honeybee populations compared to previous years?

A. Forty percent of insect biomass on Earth is on the verge of extinction, including indigenous and solitary bees. However, imported bees can be bred and multiplied more easily using twin-rearing techniques and other methods.

In South India, we practise indigenous beekeeping methods. We do not force bees to breed; instead, we allow them to breed naturally, much like other animals. There is no captivity in beekeeping; bees are free to leave if they don’t like the environment or the beekeeper.

We employ specific methods only during their natural breeding season. Before they naturally divide, we separate them into another beehive and provide a nesting habitat. Beekeeping in India is a different story compared to the West.

Providing space for bees is a form of conservation.

When people say we are saving the wrong bees, they are usually referring to the US, not India. In urban areas like Bengaluru, I rescue colonies that have taken up residence in chimneys and bathrooms. There are hundreds of urban beekeepers in Bengaluru who practise beekeeping on their terraces, balconies, and in their compounds. Providing space for bees is a form of conservation.

Q. Can you highlight some common adulteration practices?

A. Traditional adulterants include jaggery, sugar, and molasse. Now, advanced adulteration technologies from other countries are introducing high-fructose syrups made through hydrolysis (a chemical process that breaks sucrose into fructose and glucose). Laboratories need the competence to test these, but many lack this capability.  

Adulterants are increasing day by day, and new technologies are emerging to detect them. It’s crucial for consumers to be vigilant. My point is that adulteration will happen. 

As consumers, understanding how products are grown and reach the market is vital. If you rely solely on the label, you’re taking a significant risk.

Q. What is the average income of a farmer keeping honeybees? Could this be a side income for smallholders?

A. In 2021, the Agricultural Ministry and the Indian Council for Agricultural Research (ICAR) released an official statement highlighting that beekeeping is as important as soil for agriculture. This means that without pollination, farmers cannot expect yield or productivity.

In some farm ecosystems, integrating beekeeping can increase the income of small-scale farmers, not just through schemes and policies. For example, the productivity of oilseeds and even coconuts can increase by 25%. In the case of sunflowers, you can expect 50% more produce. Beekeeping can also boost areca nut harvests by one to two quintals, adding around one lakh rupees per acre. The increase in productivity isn’t just about the number of seeds but also the oil content, size, and weight.

Pollination is an ecological service—it’s not just for your benefit.

In beekeeping, the direct income comes from honey, while the indirect income comes from pollination. Pollination is an ecological service—it’s not just for your benefit.

Some farm ecosystems can yield 5 kg of honey per year, while others may only produce 2-3 kg. The yield depends on where you’re beekeeping and the number of plants and trees within a 500m to 1km radius.

The global economic value of pollination is estimated at around 400 billion dollars. In India, we lack specific data on how much crop production results from animal pollination and the number of natural and domesticated colonies.

There is a device called a pollen trap used to collect coconut pollen, which contains 28-30% more protein—a ‘gold’ for athletes. We need case studies comparing the yields of farmers who have integrated bees and those who haven’t.

Disclaimer: The views and opinions expressed in this interview are those of the speaker.

"Try the fish. It's cooked in a multivitamin leaves gravy," urges Jaywant Chowgule, the owner of Mangaal Farmstay, as he nudges me towards a special item on the day’s lunch menu. We were there celebrating a friend’s birthday, enjoying a wholesome, delicious set lunch, when Jaywant mentioned the leaves—something I'd never heard of before. My curiosity piqued, I eagerly served myself a generous helping of the forest green dish.

A closer look

After lunch, we walked over to a short tree where Jaywant reached up and plucked a few leaves. The leaves spread symmetrically from a central stalk, with the largest, around 4 cm in length, at the base, and smaller ones, about 1.5 cm long, higher up the stem. They resembled the Star Gooseberry plant, which I mistakenly assumed they were. But Renuka Vijairaghavan, a 66-year-old sustainable lifestyle coach from Pune, corrected me.

"Multivitamin leaves plant is Sauropus Androgynus and Star Gooseberry plant is Phyllanthus Acidus. They look similar, but they're entirely different. Even some scientists make this mistake in their reports," she explained. Renuka grows the plant herself and regularly includes the leaves in her diet, sometimes eating them raw after pruning to get those extra nutrients.

The versatile sweetleaf

Sauropus Androgynus, known as sweetleaf or Multivitamin leaves, among other names, is usually found in Southeast Asia—particularly in India, Bangladesh, and the Guangxi, Guangdong, Hainan, and Yunnan provinces of China. This easy-to-grow plant thrives in warm, tropical climates and can reach up to 6 metres if left unattended. Widely known as Katuk or Cekur Manis in South East Asia, the sweet leaf is known to have a nutty flavour profile with a taste between peas and asparagus. In India, it’s also called Chakramuni or Thavasi Keerai.

Nutritional powerhouse

One of the most striking aspects of sweetleaf is its protein content, comparable to that of soybeans, making it especially appealing to vegetarians and vegans. It’s also rich in antioxidants, provitamin A, carotenoids, and vitamins B, C, and D. In fact, it has more phosphorus than a banana and is loaded with calcium. Dr. Hock Eng Khoo’s research highlights the plant's abundance of both macro and micronutrients, nearly all our bodies need.

Medicinal uses

Sweetleaf has long been used in folk (unani) medicine for treating coughs, wounds, urinary disorders, and fevers, thanks to its anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties. Dr Maryanne Lobo, an Ayurveda physician and agroforestry consultant, says, "Though not widely mentioned in Ayurvedic texts, these leaves are known to lower cholesterol, strengthen bones, alleviate cancer symptoms, and cure infections." In Indonesia, the leaves were traditionally used to increase breast milk supply. Their high lutein content benefits eyesight and digestive health.

Though not widely mentioned in Ayurvedic texts, these leaves are known to lower cholesterol, strengthen bones, alleviate cancer symptoms, and cure infections.

In Tamil Nadu, Thavasi Keerai (another name for sweet leaf) is used for its detoxification properties. Its flavonoids and carotenoids boost the plant’s ability to act as an anti-carcinogen, anti-diabetic, anti-inflammatory, and antioxidant. It’s also an excellent wound healer, featured in various gels and creams. Folklore even claims it can reduce snoring and teeth grinding—a remedy many wives might be eager to try on their husbands!

Given its robust nutritional profile, it’s surprising that sweetleaf isn’t a culinary star. This herb has been used for decades in traditional recipes across China, India, and Thailand. Shruti Tharayil, a forager who educates others about wild greens through her Instagram, Forgotten Greens, regularly picks and eats these leaves. In Goa, Tanya, the owner of Edricia Farms, grows and sells them. Most of her customers, including chefs, eat them raw in salads or lightly stir-fried.

A south Indian staple

In South India, Sweetleaf is commonly used in Thambli, a chutney made by grinding the leaves with curry leaves, mustard seeds, cumin, lentils, and grated coconut. Many South Indians also fry the leaves until crispy, enjoying them as a side with rice and dal. The younger leaves can be eaten raw, added to salads, or blended into smoothies for a nutritional boost. The mild, slightly sweet flavour pairs well with a variety of ingredients. 

Chef Sandeep Sreedharan was "adventurous enough" to combine multivitamin leaves with clams. He says, "We used to call it Madura Cheera in my hometown in Kerala - it means sweet leaf. The most common preparation we had was with half-cooked lentils. I grew up eating this."

But he cautions against eating it everyday, saying, "It is a very strong leaf. And once the plant fruits, the taste of the leaves changes and they are not very nice."

While the leaves offer numerous benefits, overconsumption can lead to health issues. The compound papaverine, which helps relieve constricted blood flow, can cause lung damage if consumed in excess, leading to a condition known as bronchiolitis obliterans.

My culinary experiment

I found a consistent supply of these leaves through a friend’s garden. Although they don’t cook with them, they’re happy to share. I’ve sneaked these leaves into various recipes. My north Indian roots led me to attempt a version of palak ka saag with these leaves. With a dollop of fresh cream, it tasted divine—knowing it was more nutritious than the traditional spinach or mustard leaf version made it even better. Yet, given the potential side effects, I resist the temptation to cook it too often.

With its ease of growth, medicinal properties, versatile flavour, and impressive nutrient profile, it’s puzzling that Sweetleaf hasn’t gained more culinary recognition. Perhaps it’s time for this humble leaf to step into the spotlight. 

In 2016, Sikkim became India’s first 100% organic state. Spanning approximately 7,000 km², it is the country’s second smallest state. However, this transition was not without its challenges.

Seeds of change

The story begins in 2003 when chief minister Pawan Singh Chamling pledged to transition the state entirely to organic farming. Over 13 years, the hilly state eliminated chemical fertilisers and pesticides from its 76,000 hectares of agricultural land. 

Sikkim had a head start with its minimal reliance on chemicals—its fertiliser use was only 5.8 kilos per hectare, significantly lower than the national average, thanks to its remote location. 

Even as the rest of India embraced the green revolution of the 1960s, Sikkim’s isolation kept its soil relatively free from synthetic chemicals. This geographical advantage meant that the state’s agricultural output lagged behind more industrialised regions. 

Bharati Rai, a farmer from Gaucharan village near Ranipool in Sikkim, said “Moving towards organic farming and restricting the use of chemicals and pesticides was done while keeping in mind the health of the people and the environment, including the health of the soil.” But the challenge was to implement this transition without putting the livelihoods of Sikkim’s thousands of farmers at risk.

Sikkim’s government opted for a gradual transition, learning from Sri Lanka’s mistake of an overnight ban on chemical fertilisers that led to a collapse in agriculture. 

Phased Agricultural Shift

In 2003, Sikkim provided a 40% subsidy on urea, reducing it by 10% each year until 2008, when it was completely removed. This allowed farmers and the land to gradually adapt to organic farming. “The slow change towards organic farming over the years was ideal as it allowed us to prepare for the change, along with allowing the soil and land to slowly adapt to the new mode of farming,” Rai said.

Farmer and politician Dwarikanath Sapkota developed a transitional programme to help train farmers in getting accustomed to methods of growing crops without the use of chemicals. Training sessions were conducted by several agencies such as Sikkim Organic Mission (SOM), the state’s horticulture department, Krishi Vigyan Kendras, the Agriculture Technology Management Agency and the Indian Council of Agriculture Research (ICAR). The government established nurseries to cultivate earthworms, which were then distributed free of charge to farmers to initiate vermicomposting.

The government continued its earlier practice of distributing quality seeds at a cheap rate, but with a renewed emphasis on seeds for high-value fruits and vegetables that are suitable to grow in the particular climatic and geographic conditions of the region. 

When chemical fertilisers and pesticides are completely phased out, it takes a while for the soil to recover its nutritional value for effective organic farming to be possible. During this period, government rations helped farmers survive. The government also gave cows to many families, ensuring a steady income from dairy farming. Another scheme was launched at this time, giving one government job to each family, making salaried income a means of survival for a lot of farmers. Bharati said the government tried to incentivise farmers with awards and monetary prizes for their achievements in organic farming. 

The overwhelming popularity of Chamling, who won 31 out of 32 and 32 out of 32 seats in the 2004 and 2009 assembly elections respectively, meant that there was no sizable opposition to speak of. This allowed the government to push through these reforms and implement them in a timely manner.

Impact of Organic Farming

As the state moved to organic farming, its cropping pattern started looking different. Rice, integral to the Sikkimese diet, has been reduced almost to half of what its yield used to be. Contrarily, there has been little change in yields of maize, another important crop. Acreage under wheat, finger millet, barley, pulses and oilseeds has been seeing a decline. Unsurprisingly, fruits and vegetables have seen steady growth.

"Since the change, farmers have been benefiting from the increased demand for organically grown crops. The prices of these crops are also high, and combined with the increased demand, the farmers are not negatively impacted by the changes. This demand comes from tourists, foreigners, and even locals who can afford them.” said Rai. 

In 2014, legislation was introduced completely banning the use of all chemical fertilisers and pesticides. It was made a punishable offence with a hefty fine of Rs 1 lakh, up to 3 months in prison or both. Two years later, Prime Minister Narendra Modi declared Sikkim as India’s first, fully organic state. The state saw a 50% boost in the number of tourists between 2014 and 2017, owing to its newly found ‘organic’ reputation. 

Challenges and sustainability

The vast majority of Sikkim still depends on food exports from Siliguri in West Bengal for its sustenance. Its organic produce is consumed by a minority within the state, and largely accrues profit through exports. 

Reduced yields after the transition meant the government had to bolster prices to cover for the incurred losses, disincentivizing local customers from buying the organic produce. 

Much of Sikkim's organic food is not marketed under the official ‘Sikkim Organic’ brand. This, combined with the lack of regulations on food imported from outside the state, means that organic products from Sikkim have to compete with exports from West Bengal. Grains, fruits and vegetables that come from West Bengal are cheaper and thus, preferred by the consumers in Sikkim. 

In the fruit market, many prefer the exported, conventionally-grown fruits as they are bigger and more colourful. This has resulted in a significantly reduced market for the state’s own organic produce. “It is cheaper to buy food from outside states, and people do tend to prefer the more affordable option. However, farmers are still seeing an increase in demand for organically grown crops.” said Rai.

Logistical hurdles

The state’s geographical isolation is another major issue. Any export has to travel about 80 kilometres by road to the nearest airport at Bagdogra, before it can reach anywhere else in the country. Given the short shelf life of organic produce, this is a difficult endeavour. Small and marginal farmers, who live in parts of Sikkim that are difficult to access, depend on middlemen to take their produce to towns and cities, lowering their profit margin. The initial promise of ‘higher prices despite low yield’ has not entirely come true. 

Government support has been severely lacking in some areas. Many farmers have not been provided bio-fertilisers and biopesticides from the government and have suffered losses as a result. Between 2010 and 2014, only 5 percent of the total expenditure of SOM was allocated to farmer training. Therefore, efforts to help the farmers generate their own inputs have also not seen much success. Despite pest attacks being a huge concern among the farmers, there has been no attempt by the government’s agencies to collect data on this matter. 

A major underlying cause of this government neglect is the lack of funds, which have been disproportionately directed towards getting the state ‘organic’ certified through Third Party Certification for international export. From 2010 to 2016, SOM has spent approximately 78 percent of its total expenditures on certification-related procedures. The government’s preoccupation with certification has meant that less funds are allocated to providing farmers with essential organic inputs and training. 

Despite these challenges, Sikkim remains the sole example in the world of a complete transition to organic farming at its scale. Hence, it serves as a case study for governments, scientists and environmentalists looking to transform agriculture into a sustainable industry and make the food we eat nutritious and healthy.

Balchandra Ahirwar, a Dalit farmer from Lidhoratal village in Madhya Pradesh's Tikamgarh district, owns just two acres of land. Despite limited resources, he has successfully implemented low-cost, local resource-based natural farming methods. His efforts have increased production and improved food quality, earning him a government award. He now trains other farmers in natural farming techniques.

He has developed a multi-layer vegetable garden and a small fruit orchard, cultivating up to 44 different crops in a typical year.

Balachandra entirely avoids use of any chemical fertilisers and pesticides from the market. Instead, he makes organic liquid and soil fertiliser and pest repellants on his farm. He has also established a natural farming centre, producing bio-fertilisers using only local resources. These are available to other farmers at a modest price.

His wife, Guddi, has significantly contributed to these efforts. She says, "The benefits of natural farming are clear, especially in terms of the money we used to spend on frequent medical treatments. By eating food grown naturally, we are much healthier now."

Phulbai Chadaar, a farmer with just one acre of land in Digaura village, also in Tikamgarh district, has similarly embraced natural farming. By growing high-quality fruits and vegetables, she has reduced costs and increased income, finding a ready market for her produce. “Earlier I was often pleading before someone for a small loan, now I can give one to you if you need it”, she says with a broad smile.

Three-pronged approach

These success stories are among many emerging from the efforts of SRIJAN (Self-Reliant Initiatives through Joint Action), a voluntary organisation working in Bundelkhand, a region spread across 14 districts of Madhya Pradesh and Uttar Pradesh. SRIJAN's initiatives focus on three main areas:

1. Promotion of natural farming: SRIJAN encourages farmers to adopt natural farming practices. Farmers showing interest are supported in setting up natural farming centres, producing organic fertilisers and pest repellents not only for themselves but also for other farmers who are unable to make these products.
2. Community-driven water conservation: Bundelkhand is known for its traditional water tanks, many of which have become heavily silted due to a decline in community maintenance. SRIJAN has organised the desilting of tanks in several villages, exponentially increasing their water retention capacity. The fertile silt removed is offered to farmers free of charge to enhance soil fertility. SRIJAN also arranges repairs for old structures like check dams and digs saucer-shaped pits called dohas in water channels to retain more water during dry months.
3. Support for small and women farmers: SRIJAN places special emphasis on assisting small farmers, with a focus on women farmers, recognizing their vital contributions to agriculture.

Expanding impact

SRIJAN’s initiatives often begin in Tikamgarh district and are then expanded to other parts of Bundelkhand through collaborations with grassroots voluntary organisations under the BIWAL (Bundelkhand Initiative for Water, Agriculture, and Livelihoods) program.

In Lapaanv village, Chitrakut district, a young woman named Kiran tends to her multi-layer vegetable garden, often chasing away monkeys. Despite challenging conditions, her family has created an organic vegetable garden of exceptional quality, attracting buyers to their remote location. Kiran says her father-in-law, Braj Behari, who was scheduled for eye surgery, experienced significant improvement in his eyesight after regularly consuming amaranth, a leafy vegetable.

In Elha, activist Gajendra reports significant increases in wheat and fodder yields, improved grain quality, and reduced costs in fields cultivated under SRIJAN's initiatives.

In Sakrauhan, Sarita has started a natural farming centre that also focuses on preserving traditional seed varieties. The introduction of multi-layer vegetable gardens has boosted both productivity and the quality of vegetables, which are easily sold in local markets.

In Churiyari of Mahoba district, Keshkali's natural farming centre has brought new hope to farmers. Vipin Tewari, a farmer from the village, has nearly doubled his yield in some fields.

In Thurhat, Ramesh Dada, who runs a successful natural farming centre, says even when his yield does not increase, the superior quality of his wheat allows him to command higher prices. Ghashyam, another farmer, takes pride in his bumper crop of high-quality watermelons.

In Khemkhara, a lotus pond known for its nutritious makhanas (fox nuts) was revitalised through desilting, greatly benefiting the village.
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Community building

The cooperation achieved during these community conservation efforts has improved the prospects for such cooperation in future. In Markhera village, Tikamgarh district, the digging of doha water saving pits and check dam repairs has led to collective afforestation efforts and substantial contributions of voluntary labour (shramdaan). 

The next phase of these initiatives involves food processing and marketing to increase income through value addition. A women's farmer producer organisation in Tikamgarh district has begun local extraction of groundnut and mustard oil, grading groundnuts, and producing desi ghee, among other products. Subsequently, the Ken-Betwa Women Farmer Producer Company was formed, named after the two main rivers of the region, which has 2300 rural women as its shareholders. Though still in its early stages, the company has already received promising orders for its natural farming-based products.

While these efforts have yielded significant benefits, there is even greater potential ahead. Combining these agricultural initiatives with social reforms, such as reducing the high consumption of liquor and tobacco (especially smokeless tobacco and gutkha) in the region, could further enhance the health benefits.

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Sugar is a common ingredient in many Indian dishes, but it has long been criticised for its negative impact on health. Consuming excessive amounts of sugar can cause dental decay, weight gain, increased risk of diabetes, and heart disease. 

Unfortunately, popular fast-food chains and cold drink brands often incorporate sugar in their products, making it difficult to avoid this harmful ingredient.

Potato chips, tea, coffee, sweets, and many Indian dishes often contain added sugar, which can be unhealthy in large quantities. However, the prospect of giving up sweets may not be very appealing to the average consumer. Hence, many are turning to artificial sweeteners, which offer the sweetness without the negative effects. These sweeteners are made from plant extracts or chemicals and can be found in many sugar-free products.

But what are these artificial sweeteners? How did we discover them? What are they made of? Are they entirely safe? Let’s find out.

"Table sugar, also known as sucrose, is high in calories but low in nutritional value. Natural sugars found in fruits and vegetables are digested slowly and provide a steady source of energy, which is generally considered healthy. But when sugar is added to food and drinks as a sweetener or preservative, it’s probably bad news. According to the NHS, adults shouldn’t consume no more than 30 grams of added sugar per day.

Artificial sweeteners work by providing the same level of sweetness as sugar, or even more, with almost no calories. This is why they are called non-nutritive sweeteners (NNS). The Food Safety and Standards Authority of India (FSSAI) has approved the following artificial sweeteners for use in food: saccharin sodium, aspartame, acesulfame potassium, sucralose, neotame, and isomaltulose.

Oldest artificial sweetener

Saccharin is the oldest artificial sweetener on the market. It comes in granule and liquid forms and is made by chemically modifying o-toluene sulfonamide or phthalic anhydride through the process of oxidation. 

Saccharin was discovered in 1879 by Constantin Fahlberg at Johns Hopkins University, Baltimore, while he was experimenting with benzoic sulfimide. The discovery was allegedly accidental, as Fahlberg noticed a sweet taste on his hand and named the compound after this observation. Fahlberg and his colleague Ira Remsen later developed a way to synthesise saccharin from o-sulfamoylbenzoic acid.

Saccharin is about four to five hundred times sweeter than table sugar, and hence required in far smaller quantities to do its job. This high sweetness and stability, as well as its long shelf life, make it an ideal choice for food manufacturers. Common applications include sugar-free sodas, candies, jams, jellies, and cookies.

According to the US Food and Drug Administration (FDA), the acceptable daily intake (ADI) of sodium saccharin is 5 mg per kilogram of body weight.

Are they really safe?

Artificial sweeteners, despite their widespread use, remain controversial due to concerns about their safety and benefits. While many people believe that switching to artificial sweeteners can aid weight loss, scientific evidence is inconclusive. The World Health Organization (WHO) does not recommend their use for weight loss, noting little to no reduction in body fat based on a 2022 review. Instead of relying on artificial sweeteners, it might be better to incorporate more nutrient-rich fruits and non-sweetened foods into one's diet.

A review published in the Indian Journal of Pharmacology highlights a lack of randomised controlled studies assessing the efficacy of artificial sweeteners across various population groups.  Observational studies yield inconsistent and contradictory findings.  Moreover, consumers are generally unaware of the potential dangers associated with the use of artificial sweeteners.

Aspartame, an ester derived from the amino acids L-aspartic acid and L-phenylalanine, is a good case in point. This dipeptide is combined with methanol to form the compound aspartame, which is around 200 times sweeter than sugar. Aspartame is extensively used in various food and beverage products and is generally considered safe for human consumption.

However, some potential risks have been identified.

The International Agency for Research on Cancer (IARC) has classified aspartame as ‘possibly carcinogenic to humans’, although the evidence is limited.

The Joint FAO/WHO Expert Committee on Food Additives has established the acceptable daily intake (ADI) of aspartame at 40 mg per kg of body weight. However, more research is needed to better understand the possible mechanisms by which aspartame may cause cancer.

Some research suggests that aspartame may pose a risk for people with Type-2 Diabetes. This is because it can increase cortisol levels in the body, potentially leading to weight gain and insulin resistance.

The widespread marketing and government approval of artificial sweeteners have contributed to their widespread use. However, due to the limited evidence of their benefits and potential health risks, consumers, particularly those with diabetes, need to exercise caution when consuming these products.