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Rashi Goel
|
August 30, 2024
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4
min read

The nutrient-rich green that’s ready for the spotlight

Meet the superfood that's been right under our noses all along

"Try the fish. It's cooked in a multivitamin leaves gravy," urges Jaywant Chowgule, the owner of Mangaal Farmstay, as he nudges me towards a special item on the day’s lunch menu. We were there celebrating a friend’s birthday, enjoying a wholesome, delicious set lunch, when Jaywant mentioned the leaves—something I'd never heard of before. My curiosity piqued, I eagerly served myself a generous helping of the forest green dish.

A closer look

After lunch, we walked over to a short tree where Jaywant reached up and plucked a few leaves. The leaves spread symmetrically from a central stalk, with the largest, around 4 cm in length, at the base, and smaller ones, about 1.5 cm long, higher up the stem. They resembled the Star Gooseberry plant, which I mistakenly assumed they were. But Renuka Vijairaghavan, a 66-year-old sustainable lifestyle coach from Pune, corrected me.

"Multivitamin leaves plant is Sauropus Androgynus and Star Gooseberry plant is Phyllanthus Acidus. They look similar, but they're entirely different. Even some scientists make this mistake in their reports," she explained. Renuka grows the plant herself and regularly includes the leaves in her diet, sometimes eating them raw after pruning to get those extra nutrients.

The versatile sweetleaf

Sauropus Androgynus, known as sweetleaf or Multivitamin leaves, among other names, is usually found in Southeast Asia—particularly in India, Bangladesh, and the Guangxi, Guangdong, Hainan, and Yunnan provinces of China. This easy-to-grow plant thrives in warm, tropical climates and can reach up to 6 metres if left unattended. Widely known as Katuk or Cekur Manis in South East Asia, the sweet leaf is known to have a nutty flavour profile with a taste between peas and asparagus. In India, it’s also called Chakramuni or Thavasi Keerai.

Nutritional powerhouse

One of the most striking aspects of sweetleaf is its protein content, comparable to that of soybeans, making it especially appealing to vegetarians and vegans. It’s also rich in antioxidants, provitamin A, carotenoids, and vitamins B, C, and D. In fact, it has more phosphorus than a banana and is loaded with calcium. Dr. Hock Eng Khoo’s research highlights the plant's abundance of both macro and micronutrients, nearly all our bodies need.

Medicinal uses

Sweetleaf has long been used in folk (unani) medicine for treating coughs, wounds, urinary disorders, and fevers, thanks to its anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties. Dr Maryanne Lobo, an Ayurveda physician and agroforestry consultant, says, "Though not widely mentioned in Ayurvedic texts, these leaves are known to lower cholesterol, strengthen bones, alleviate cancer symptoms, and cure infections." In Indonesia, the leaves were traditionally used to increase breast milk supply. Their high lutein content benefits eyesight and digestive health.

Though not widely mentioned in Ayurvedic texts, these leaves are known to lower cholesterol, strengthen bones, alleviate cancer symptoms, and cure infections.

In Tamil Nadu, Thavasi Keerai (another name for sweet leaf) is used for its detoxification properties. Its flavonoids and carotenoids boost the plant’s ability to act as an anti-carcinogen, anti-diabetic, anti-inflammatory, and antioxidant. It’s also an excellent wound healer, featured in various gels and creams. Folklore even claims it can reduce snoring and teeth grinding—a remedy many wives might be eager to try on their husbands!

Given its robust nutritional profile, it’s surprising that sweetleaf isn’t a culinary star. This herb has been used for decades in traditional recipes across China, India, and Thailand. Shruti Tharayil, a forager who educates others about wild greens through her Instagram, Forgotten Greens, regularly picks and eats these leaves. In Goa, Tanya, the owner of Edricia Farms, grows and sells them. Most of her customers, including chefs, eat them raw in salads or lightly stir-fried.

A south Indian staple

In South India, Sweetleaf is commonly used in Thambli, a chutney made by grinding the leaves with curry leaves, mustard seeds, cumin, lentils, and grated coconut. Many South Indians also fry the leaves until crispy, enjoying them as a side with rice and dal. The younger leaves can be eaten raw, added to salads, or blended into smoothies for a nutritional boost. The mild, slightly sweet flavour pairs well with a variety of ingredients. 

Chef Sandeep Sreedharan was "adventurous enough" to combine multivitamin leaves with clams. He says, "We used to call it Madura Cheera in my hometown in Kerala - it means sweet leaf. The most common preparation we had was with half-cooked lentils. I grew up eating this."

But he cautions against eating it everyday, saying, "It is a very strong leaf. And once the plant fruits, the taste of the leaves changes and they are not very nice."

While the leaves offer numerous benefits, overconsumption can lead to health issues. The compound papaverine, which helps relieve constricted blood flow, can cause lung damage if consumed in excess, leading to a condition known as bronchiolitis obliterans.

My culinary experiment

I found a consistent supply of these leaves through a friend’s garden. Although they don’t cook with them, they’re happy to share. I’ve sneaked these leaves into various recipes. My north Indian roots led me to attempt a version of palak ka saag with these leaves. With a dollop of fresh cream, it tasted divine—knowing it was more nutritious than the traditional spinach or mustard leaf version made it even better. Yet, given the potential side effects, I resist the temptation to cook it too often.

With its ease of growth, medicinal properties, versatile flavour, and impressive nutrient profile, it’s puzzling that Sweetleaf hasn’t gained more culinary recognition. Perhaps it’s time for this humble leaf to step into the spotlight. 

Ananyo Chatterjee
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August 29, 2024
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5
min read

Sikkim shows how to farm without chemicals

How India's second smallest state went 100% organic in just 13 years

In 2016, Sikkim became India’s first 100% organic state. Spanning approximately 7,000 km², it is the country’s second smallest state. However, this transition was not without its challenges.

Seeds of change

The story begins in 2003 when chief minister Pawan Singh Chamling pledged to transition the state entirely to organic farming. Over 13 years, the hilly state eliminated chemical fertilisers and pesticides from its 76,000 hectares of agricultural land. 

Sikkim had a head start with its minimal reliance on chemicals—its fertiliser use was only 5.8 kilos per hectare, significantly lower than the national average, thanks to its remote location. 

Even as the rest of India embraced the green revolution of the 1960s, Sikkim’s isolation kept its soil relatively free from synthetic chemicals. This geographical advantage meant that the state’s agricultural output lagged behind more industrialised regions. 

Bharati Rai, a farmer from Gaucharan village near Ranipool in Sikkim, said “Moving towards organic farming and restricting the use of chemicals and pesticides was done while keeping in mind the health of the people and the environment, including the health of the soil.” But the challenge was to implement this transition without putting the livelihoods of Sikkim’s thousands of farmers at risk.

Sikkim’s government opted for a gradual transition, learning from Sri Lanka’s mistake of an overnight ban on chemical fertilisers that led to a collapse in agriculture. 

Modus operandi

In 2003, Sikkim provided a 40% subsidy on urea, reducing it by 10% each year until 2008, when it was completely removed. This allowed farmers and the land to gradually adapt to organic farming. “The slow change towards organic farming over the years was ideal as it allowed us to prepare for the change, along with allowing the soil and land to slowly adapt to the new mode of farming,” Rai said.

Farmer and politician Dwarikanath Sapkota developed a transitional programme to help train farmers in getting accustomed to methods of growing crops without the use of chemicals. Training sessions were conducted by several agencies such as Sikkim Organic Mission (SOM), the state’s horticulture department, Krishi Vigyan Kendras, the Agriculture Technology Management Agency and the Indian Council of Agriculture Research (ICAR). The government established nurseries to cultivate earthworms, which were then distributed free of charge to farmers to initiate vermicomposting.

The government continued its earlier practice of distributing quality seeds at a cheap rate, but with a renewed emphasis on seeds for high-value fruits and vegetables that are suitable to grow in the particular climatic and geographic conditions of the region. 

When chemical fertilisers and pesticides are completely phased out, it takes a while for the soil to recover its nutritional value for effective organic farming to be possible. During this period, government rations helped farmers survive. The government also gave cows to many families, ensuring a steady income from dairy farming. Another scheme was launched at this time, giving one government job to each family, making salaried income a means of survival for a lot of farmers. Bharati said the government tried to incentivise farmers with awards and monetary prizes for their achievements in organic farming. 

The overwhelming popularity of Chamling, who won 31 out of 32 and 32 out of 32 seats in the 2004 and 2009 assembly elections respectively, meant that there was no sizable opposition to speak of. This allowed the government to push through these reforms and implement them in a timely manner.

Outcomes

As the state moved to organic farming, its cropping pattern started looking different. Rice, integral to the Sikkimese diet, has been reduced almost to half of what its yield used to be. Contrarily, there has been little change in yields of maize, another important crop. Acreage under wheat, finger millet, barley, pulses and oilseeds has been seeing a decline. Unsurprisingly, fruits and vegetables have seen steady growth.

"Since the change, farmers have been benefiting from the increased demand for organically grown crops. The prices of these crops are also high, and combined with the increased demand, the farmers are not negatively impacted by the changes. This demand comes from tourists, foreigners, and even locals who can afford them.” said Rai. 

In 2014, legislation was introduced completely banning the use of all chemical fertilisers and pesticides. It was made a punishable offence with a hefty fine of Rs 1 lakh, up to 3 months in prison or both. Two years later, Prime Minister Narendra Modi declared Sikkim as India’s first, fully organic state. The state saw a 50% boost in the number of tourists between 2014 and 2017, owing to its newly found ‘organic’ reputation. 

Challenges and sustainability

The vast majority of Sikkim still depends on food exports from Siliguri in West Bengal for its sustenance. Its organic produce is consumed by a minority within the state, and largely accrues profit through exports. 

Reduced yields after the transition meant the government had to bolster prices to cover for the incurred losses, disincentivizing local customers from buying the organic produce. 

Much of Sikkim's organic food is not marketed under the official ‘Sikkim Organic’ brand. This, combined with the lack of regulations on food imported from outside the state, means that organic products from Sikkim have to compete with exports from West Bengal. Grains, fruits and vegetables that come from West Bengal are cheaper and thus, preferred by the consumers in Sikkim. 

In the fruit market, many prefer the exported, conventionally-grown fruits as they are bigger and more colourful. This has resulted in a significantly reduced market for the state’s own organic produce. “It is cheaper to buy food from outside states, and people do tend to prefer the more affordable option. However, farmers are still seeing an increase in demand for organically grown crops.” said Rai.

Logistical hurdles

The state’s geographical isolation is another major issue. Any export has to travel about 80 kilometres by road to the nearest airport at Bagdogra, before it can reach anywhere else in the country. Given the short shelf life of organic produce, this is a difficult endeavour. Small and marginal farmers, who live in parts of Sikkim that are difficult to access, depend on middlemen to take their produce to towns and cities, lowering their profit margin. The initial promise of ‘higher prices despite low yield’ has not entirely come true. 

Government support has been severely lacking in some areas. Many farmers have not been provided bio-fertilisers and biopesticides from the government and have suffered losses as a result. Between 2010 and 2014, only 5 percent of the total expenditure of SOM was allocated to farmer training. Therefore, efforts to help the farmers generate their own inputs have also not seen much success. Despite pest attacks being a huge concern among the farmers, there has been no attempt by the government’s agencies to collect data on this matter. 

A major underlying cause of this government neglect is the lack of funds, which have been disproportionately directed towards getting the state ‘organic’ certified through Third Party Certification for international export. From 2010 to 2016, SOM has spent approximately 78 percent of its total expenditures on certification-related procedures. The government’s preoccupation with certification has meant that less funds are allocated to providing farmers with essential organic inputs and training. 

Despite these challenges, Sikkim remains the sole example in the world of a complete transition to organic farming at its scale. Hence, it serves as a case study for governments, scientists and environmentalists looking to transform agriculture into a sustainable industry and make the food we eat nutritious and healthy.

Bharat Dogra
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August 29, 2024
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4
min read

SRIJAN breathes new life to parched Bundelkhand region

Voluntary group promotes natural farming and water conservation

Balchandra Ahirwar, a Dalit farmer from Lidhoratal village in Madhya Pradesh's Tikamgarh district, owns just two acres of land. Despite limited resources, he has successfully implemented low-cost, local resource-based natural farming methods. His efforts have increased production and improved food quality, earning him a government award. He now trains other farmers in natural farming techniques.

He has developed a multi-layer vegetable garden and a small fruit orchard, cultivating up to 44 different crops in a typical year.

Balachandra entirely avoids use of any chemical fertilisers and pesticides from the market. Instead, he makes organic liquid and soil fertiliser and pest repellants on his farm. He has also established a natural farming centre, producing bio-fertilisers using only local resources. These are available to other farmers at a modest price.

Balchandra Ahirwar

His wife, Guddi, has significantly contributed to these efforts. She says, "The benefits of natural farming are clear, especially in terms of the money we used to spend on frequent medical treatments. By eating food grown naturally, we are much healthier now."

Phulbai Chadaar, a farmer with just one acre of land in Digaura village, also in Tikamgarh district, has similarly embraced natural farming. By growing high-quality fruits and vegetables, she has reduced costs and increased income, finding a ready market for her produce. “Earlier I was often pleading before someone for a small loan, now I can give one to you if you need it”, she says with a broad smile.

Phulbai Chadaar

Three-pronged approach

These success stories are among many emerging from the efforts of SRIJAN (Self-Reliant Initiatives through Joint Action), a voluntary organisation working in Bundelkhand, a region spread across 14 districts of Madhya Pradesh and Uttar Pradesh. SRIJAN's initiatives focus on three main areas:

  1. Promotion of natural farming: SRIJAN encourages farmers to adopt natural farming practices. Farmers showing interest are supported in setting up natural farming centres, producing organic fertilisers and pest repellents not only for themselves but also for other farmers who are unable to make these products.
  2. Community-driven water conservation: Bundelkhand is known for its traditional water tanks, many of which have become heavily silted due to a decline in community maintenance. SRIJAN has organised the desilting of tanks in several villages, exponentially increasing their water retention capacity. The fertile silt removed is offered to farmers free of charge to enhance soil fertility. SRIJAN also arranges repairs for old structures like check dams and digs saucer-shaped pits called dohas in water channels to retain more water during dry months.
  3. Support for small and women farmers: SRIJAN places special emphasis on assisting small farmers, with a focus on women farmers, recognizing their vital contributions to agriculture.

Expanding impact

SRIJAN’s initiatives often begin in Tikamgarh district and are then expanded to other parts of Bundelkhand through collaborations with grassroots voluntary organisations under the BIWAL (Bundelkhand Initiative for Water, Agriculture, and Livelihoods) program.

In Lapaanv village, Chitrakut district, a young woman named Kiran tends to her multi-layer vegetable garden, often chasing away monkeys. Despite challenging conditions, her family has created an organic vegetable garden of exceptional quality, attracting buyers to their remote location. Kiran says her father-in-law, Braj Behari, who was scheduled for eye surgery, experienced significant improvement in his eyesight after regularly consuming amaranth, a leafy vegetable.

In Elha, activist Gajendra reports significant increases in wheat and fodder yields, improved grain quality, and reduced costs in fields cultivated under SRIJAN's initiatives.

In Sakrauhan, Sarita has started a natural farming centre that also focuses on preserving traditional seed varieties. The introduction of multi-layer vegetable gardens has boosted both productivity and the quality of vegetables, which are easily sold in local markets.

In Churiyari of Mahoba district, Keshkali's natural farming centre has brought new hope to farmers. Vipin Tewari, a farmer from the village, has nearly doubled his yield in some fields.

In Thurhat, Ramesh Dada, who runs a successful natural farming centre, says even when his yield does not increase, the superior quality of his wheat allows him to command higher prices. Ghashyam, another farmer, takes pride in his bumper crop of high-quality watermelons.

In Khemkhara, a lotus pond known for its nutritious makhanas (fox nuts) was revitalised through desilting, greatly benefiting the village.

Foxnuts or Makhana (Source: Wikimedia Commons/FacetsOfNonStickPans)

Community building

The cooperation achieved during these community conservation efforts has improved the prospects for such cooperation in future. In Markhera village, Tikamgarh district, the digging of doha water saving pits and check dam repairs has led to collective afforestation efforts and substantial contributions of voluntary labour (shramdaan). 

The next phase of these initiatives involves food processing and marketing to increase income through value addition. A women's farmer producer organisation in Tikamgarh district has begun local extraction of groundnut and mustard oil, grading groundnuts, and producing desi ghee, among other products. Subsequently, the Ken-Betwa Women Farmer Producer Company was formed, named after the two main rivers of the region, which has 2300 rural women as its shareholders. Though still in its early stages, the company has already received promising orders for its natural farming-based products.

While these efforts have yielded significant benefits, there is even greater potential ahead. Combining these agricultural initiatives with social reforms, such as reducing the high consumption of liquor and tobacco (especially smokeless tobacco and gutkha) in the region, could further enhance the health benefits.

Ananyo Chatterjee
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August 27, 2024
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3
min read

The bitter truth behind artificial sweeteners

Doesn't taste much like sugar, and its safety remains uncertain.

Sugar is a common ingredient in many Indian dishes, but it has long been criticised for its negative impact on health. Consuming excessive amounts of sugar can cause dental decay, weight gain, increased risk of diabetes, and heart disease. 

Unfortunately, popular fast-food chains and cold drink brands often incorporate sugar in their products, making it difficult to avoid this harmful ingredient.

Potato chips, tea, coffee, sweets, and many Indian dishes often contain added sugar, which can be unhealthy in large quantities. However, the prospect of giving up sweets may not be very appealing to the average consumer. Hence, many are turning to artificial sweeteners, which offer the sweetness without the negative effects. These sweeteners are made from plant extracts or chemicals and can be found in many sugar-free products.

But what are these artificial sweeteners? How did we discover them? What are they made of? Are they entirely safe? Let’s find out.

"Table sugar, also known as sucrose, is high in calories but low in nutritional value. Natural sugars found in fruits and vegetables are digested slowly and provide a steady source of energy, which is generally considered healthy. But when sugar is added to food and drinks as a sweetener or preservative, it’s probably bad news. According to the NHS, adults shouldn’t consume no more than 30 grams of added sugar per day.

Artificial sweeteners work by providing the same level of sweetness as sugar, or even more, with almost no calories. This is why they are called non-nutritive sweeteners (NNS). The Food Safety and Standards Authority of India (FSSAI) has approved the following artificial sweeteners for use in food: saccharin sodium, aspartame, acesulfame potassium, sucralose, neotame, and isomaltulose.

Oldest artificial sweetener

Saccharin is the oldest artificial sweetener on the market. It comes in granule and liquid forms and is made by chemically modifying o-toluene sulfonamide or phthalic anhydride through the process of oxidation. 

Saccharin was discovered in 1879 by Constantin Fahlberg at Johns Hopkins University, Baltimore, while he was experimenting with benzoic sulfimide. The discovery was allegedly accidental, as Fahlberg noticed a sweet taste on his hand and named the compound after this observation. Fahlberg and his colleague Ira Remsen later developed a way to synthesise saccharin from o-sulfamoylbenzoic acid.

Saccharin is about four to five hundred times sweeter than table sugar, and hence required in far smaller quantities to do its job. This high sweetness and stability, as well as its long shelf life, make it an ideal choice for food manufacturers. Common applications include sugar-free sodas, candies, jams, jellies, and cookies.

According to the US Food and Drug Administration (FDA), the acceptable daily intake (ADI) of sodium saccharin is 5 mg per kilogram of body weight.

Are they really safe?

Artificial sweeteners, despite their widespread use, remain controversial due to concerns about their safety and benefits. While many people believe that switching to artificial sweeteners can aid weight loss, scientific evidence is inconclusive. The World Health Organization (WHO) does not recommend their use for weight loss, noting little to no reduction in body fat based on a 2022 review. Instead of relying on artificial sweeteners, it might be better to incorporate more nutrient-rich fruits and non-sweetened foods into one's diet.

A review published in the Indian Journal of Pharmacology highlights a lack of randomised controlled studies assessing the efficacy of artificial sweeteners across various population groups.  Observational studies yield inconsistent and contradictory findings.  Moreover, consumers are generally unaware of the potential dangers associated with the use of artificial sweeteners.

Aspartame, an ester derived from the amino acids L-aspartic acid and L-phenylalanine, is a good case in point. This dipeptide is combined with methanol to form the compound aspartame, which is around 200 times sweeter than sugar. Aspartame is extensively used in various food and beverage products and is generally considered safe for human consumption.

However, some potential risks have been identified.

The International Agency for Research on Cancer (IARC) has classified aspartame as ‘possibly carcinogenic to humans’, although the evidence is limited.

The Joint FAO/WHO Expert Committee on Food Additives has established the acceptable daily intake (ADI) of aspartame at 40 mg per kg of body weight. However, more research is needed to better understand the possible mechanisms by which aspartame may cause cancer.

Some research suggests that aspartame may pose a risk for people with Type-2 Diabetes. This is because it can increase cortisol levels in the body, potentially leading to weight gain and insulin resistance.

The widespread marketing and government approval of artificial sweeteners have contributed to their widespread use. However, due to the limited evidence of their benefits and potential health risks, consumers, particularly those with diabetes, need to exercise caution when consuming these products.

Sneha Mahale
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August 26, 2024
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5
min read

Heatwaves cast shadow on India's food future

Unusually high temperatures in the second fortnight of February and March were responsible for the low crop yields.

Bhupen Singh, a farmer in Punjab's Bathinda district, witnessed his wheat harvest shrivel in 2022 due to unusual heat, peaking at a scorching 44.1°C during critical growing months. “Unusually high temperatures in the second fortnight of February and March were responsible for the low crop yields. It affected the wheat during its critical milking stage, resulting in smaller grains. Crops also experienced browning, premature maturation and shrivelled grains. Farmers, like me, suffered heavy losses,” said Singh.

According to the Indian Council of Agricultural Research (ICAR), average wheat yields in the district plummeted from 58.2q/ha in 2021 to just 41.6q/ha in 2022. Heatwaves in 2023 and 2024 have also affected wheat crop yields in the region, although specific data on the losses is not yet available.

Scientists project that a temperature increase of 2.5 to 4.9°C across India could lead to a decrease of 41%-52% in wheat yield. (Source: Yann Forget via Wikimedia Commons)

The heat is on

Our planet's temperature has been steadily rising. Since 1880, Earth's temperature has been rising by 0.08°C per decade. But since 1981, it's more than doubled to 0.18°C per decade. Globally, hot days are increasing while cold days are declining. Research published in Science Advances shows that heatwaves are becoming longer and slower, particularly in North America and Eurasia. From 1979-1983, the world averaged about 75 heatwave events. Fast forward to 2016-2020, and the number had increased to 98.

While a warmer planet poses severe health risks for humans, it also significantly impacts agricultural output. For India, home to over 1.4 billion people and ranked 111 out of 125 countries in the Global Hunger Index, this presents a serious problem.

Most India Meteorological Department (IMD) stations have recorded an increase in heatwave events from 1961 to 2020. This summer, the country faced its third consecutive year of severe heatwaves, with temperatures in northern India crossing 50°C. What's even more concerning is the trend of these heatwaves starting earlier, lasting longer, and affecting larger areas – a troubling shift from historical climate patterns.

Fields of fire

Studies project a temperature increase of 2.5 to 4.9°C across India, potentially leading to a decrease of 41%-52% in wheat yield and 32%-40% in rice production. This decline extends to most cereals, particularly in the Indo-Gangetic plains, where rising temperatures and reduced water availability are expected. Modelling approaches suggest a substantial loss in crop production, ranging from 10% to 40% by 2100.

High temperatures could impact water-intensive crops such as rice, making their cultivation increasingly challenging. (Source: Subhrajyoti via Wikimedia Commons)

“Some crops, vegetables, and fruits are more susceptible than others, depending on their genetic quality and agro-ecological needs,” said Anjani Kumar, senior research fellow at the International Food Policy Research Institute-South Asia.

Rain-fed crops: Crops, including sorghum, jowar, ragi, bajra, oilseeds, and vegetables, are particularly susceptible to longer dry spells, erratic rainfall patterns, and extreme heavy rain events. "These conditions could lead to lower yields per hectare or even crop failure, with a higher risk of pest infestations due to rising temperatures," said Shrinivas Badiger, PhD fellow at the Centre for Environment and Development, Ashoka Trust for Research in Ecology and the Environment.

Groundwater-irrigated crops: A warming climate accelerates groundwater depletion, threatening crops reliant on irrigation. "Higher temperatures elevate the water demand for evapotranspiration," said Badiger. "If this requirement isn't met, it will adversely affect yields even in irrigated regions." This could significantly impact water-intensive crops like sugarcane, rice, cotton, and wheat, making their cultivation increasingly challenging.

Quality matters

A 2019 United Nations report highlights the negative impact of climate change on staple crops, vital for global nutrition. While elevated CO2 levels may make vegetables like lettuce and tomatoes sweeter and increase yields, it comes at a cost. Studies show a decrease of 10 to 20% in protein, nitrate, magnesium, iron, and zinc content. Plants may lose up to 8% of their mineral content in these carbon-rich environments.

While elevated CO2 levels may make vegetables like lettuce and tomatoes sweeter and increase yields, it comes at a cost. Studies show a decrease of 10 to 20% in protein, nitrate, magnesium, iron, and zinc content. Plants may lose up to 8% of their mineral content in these carbon-rich environments.

This translates to a rise in hidden hunger, a condition where people experience undernutrition due to a lack of essential nutrients despite consuming enough calories. A policy note from the Gender, Climate Change, and Nutrition Integration Initiative predicts 138 million more people could be at risk of zinc deficiency and 148 million more at risk of protein deficiency globally by 2050.

The most vulnerable regions include South Asia, Southeast Asia, China, the Middle East and North Africa, where many are already near nutritional deficiency and rely heavily on wheat and rice. In India alone, an estimated 53 million people could become newly protein-deficient, and 48 million could become zinc-deficient under higher CO2 levels.

“The precise impact of heatwaves varies according to the type of crop, soil conditions, and the local climate. So, more comprehensive research is required to fully understand and verify these effects and their implications for food security and dietary quality,” said Suvarna Sawant, chief dietician and HOD, clinical nutrition & dietetics, Nanavati Max Super Speciality Hospital, Mumbai.

Coping strategies

Climate change demands a shift in dietary patterns, but the strategies differ across regions. In the West, reducing meat consumption is a major focus. However, meat and eggs remain essential protein sources in India, where consumption is already relatively low and these foods contribute significantly to meeting nutritional targets.

Substituting scarce items with readily available ones is another option, but challenges exist. No two foods are nutritionally identical, and even similar options can differ in calories, protein, and micronutrients.“For example, replacing whole grains with refined grains significantly reduces fibre and nutrient intake, while shifting from animal protein to plant-based alternatives requires careful consideration to balance amino acids and vitamins," said Sawant.

Here's where consumers can play a key role:

Reduce food waste: Globally, 931 million tonnes of food are wasted annually, contributing to 8-10% of carbon emissions. Reducing food waste lowers demand and mitigates further warming.

Prioritise fresh produce: Fresh, seasonal produce offers higher nutrient levels and fewer additives compared to processed foods.

Meanwhile, scientists and policymakers are working on equipping farmers with tools to manage losses:

Climate-resilient crops: Genome editing is making strides towards creating heat-resistant, nutritious crops. In 2021, Prime Minister Narendra Modi introduced 35 such varieties developed by ICAR, including drought-tolerant chickpeas and biofortified wheat, pearl millet, and maize. Biofortification is a process that increases the nutrient density of crops.

Weather information and agronomic practices: The IMD's Gramin Krishi Mausam Sewa scheme provides farmers with crucial weather and crop information to optimise production. "Farmers can adapt by diversifying crops, using resilient seed varieties, and modifying planting and irrigation practices," said Kumar.

Rising temperatures result in mango flower drop and lots of jhumka problems. (Source: Yann via Wikimedia Commons)

For instance, in Uttar Pradesh this year, a 5°C rise in temperature resulted in mango flower drop and lots of jhumka problems in the fruit due to poor pollination. “To mitigate losses, we implemented ICAR-Central Citrus Research Institute (CCRI) and ICAR-Central Institute for Subtropical Horticulture’s advisories to initiate drip irrigation with organic mulching. Certain fungicides, such as copper oxychloride, were also recommended to control fruit infections that spike in rising temperatures,” said Uday Singh, a farmer in the Ayodhya district, where mangoes and guavas are the primary fruits grown.

The road ahead

There's no doubt that our planet is getting warmer, and heatwaves will only intensify. Only through informed, collaborative efforts at the community level and through government-led initiatives can India develop resilient food systems. Ongoing research and data collection can provide valuable insights, guiding effective interventions and policies aimed at preventing malnutrition, sustaining yields, and promoting overall health and well-being.

Maneesh
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August 2, 2024
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3
min read

Why common infections could become killers again

Antimicrobial resistance is making infections tougher to treat

Antimicrobial resistance, or AMR, is a fast-evolving threat to global health systems. According to the World Health Organization (WHO), AMR occurs when bacteria, viruses, fungi, and parasites no longer respond to antimicrobial medicines as they develop drug resistance.

In many wealthy countries, doctors frequently prescribe antimicrobials even when they aren't necessary, according to a paper published in the United States National Center for Biotechnology Information. Meanwhile, in developing nations like India, these drugs are often readily available over the counter, leading to rampant misuse.

A study in The Lancet Regional Health — Southeast Asia highlighted India's high consumption of broad-spectrum antibiotics, which should be used sparingly due to their wide-ranging effects. The journal JAC—Antimicrobial Resistance reported that antibiotic misuse varies significantly across India, with poorer states showing lower rates of consumption, likely due to limited access rather than prudent use. This misuse breeds superbugs—pathogens armed with resistance genes that render treatments ineffective. As a result, common infections become increasingly difficult, if not impossible, to treat.

According to a report published by the Indian Council of Medical Research, a big chunk of patients in India may no longer benefit from carbapenem, a powerful antibiotic used in critical care settings to treat pneumonia and septicemia. The resistance isn't limited to bacteria. Fungal pathogens like C. parapsilosis and C. glabrata are showing increasing resistance to common antifungal medicines such as fluconazole.

Unfolding catastrophe

In 2019 alone, drug-resistant infections claimed 1.27 million lives globally. The United Nations warns that by 2050, this number could soar to a staggering 10 million annual deaths. 

According to an article in the United States Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC), antimicrobial-resistant infections that require the use of second- and third-line treatments can harm patients by causing serious side effects, such as organ failure, and prolonged care and recovery, sometimes for months.

The article further says that resistance also comes in the way of a person’s ability to fight infections using antibiotics during treatments/procedures, including joint replacements, organ transplants, cancer therapy, and chronic diseases like diabetes, asthma, and rheumatoid arthritis. 

According to the United Nations Environment Programme (UNEP), AMR could shave off USD 3.4 trillion from global annual GDP and push 24 million more people into extreme poverty in the next decade. The UNEP also warns that by 2050, up to 10 million deaths could occur annually due to drug-resistant infections globally. 

Beyond human health

The misuse of antimicrobials extends beyond humans, affecting food-producing animals and aquaculture. The widespread use of these drugs to promote growth and prevent disease has led to resistant bacterial strains that can spread to humans through direct contact, consumption, or the environment.

While AMR drivers are universal, its impact is disproportionately severe in low- and middle-income countries, as noted by the WHO. Here, the overuse of non-prescribed drugs is more prevalent, exacerbating existing inequalities as healthcare costs rise and agricultural productivity falls.

Charting a new course

Recognising the gravity of AMR, scientists and policymakers advocate for a multi-faceted approach. Improved surveillance is crucial, as highlighted by the United States Library of Medicine. Gaps in data on key microbes hinder our understanding of AMR trends, making it essential to establish standardised methods and definitions for tracking resistance.

Hospitals must improve infection control measures, while public education campaigns can help curb antimicrobial misuse. The Federation of European Microbiological Societies (FEMS) suggests that effective public awareness campaigns could cut antimicrobial prescriptions by 36%.

In agriculture, reducing antimicrobial use in livestock and developing new drugs to combat superbugs is imperative. The UNEP emphasises the environment's role in AMR's evolution and spread, advocating for a 'One Health' approach that recognises the interconnectedness of humans, animals, plants, and ecosystems.

A call to action

For the 'One Health' strategy to succeed, global organisations and governments must prioritise AMR as an international concern. The time has come to place this threat at the forefront of the global political agenda, acknowledging that addressing AMR is not just a scientific or medical issue but a societal imperative that demands coordinated action from all sectors. Only by acting decisively can we hope to avert the looming health crisis and safeguard future generations from the devastating impact of drug-resistant infections.

Puja Bhattacharjee
|
July 16, 2024
|
6
min read

The rise and fall of India's Tilapia dream

The journey of Tilapia from miracle fish to ecological menace in Indian waters

Before becoming an aquaculture consultant and probiotic shrimp supplier, Apuchand Eluri farmed fish for 15 years on his 130-acre farm in Khammam district, Telangana. Today, an uninvited guest threatens to upend his livelihood.

"Tilapia feed much faster than the Carp because there are more of them, and they are very active feeders. They have robust spines on their fins, which prevent other fish from attacking them and eating the feed. They're more dominating and territorial. They eat the feed first, and the other cultured fish eat the rest," he said.

Tilapia, once hailed as a potential solution to global food security, has become both a blessing and a curse for Indian fish farmers and ecosystems alike.

A fish with a mission

In 1988, WorldFish and its partners started the Genetic Improvement of Farmed Tilapia (GIFT) project to develop a faster-growing strain of Nile Tilapia fit for small-scale and commercial aquaculture. According to the Consortium of International Agricultural Research Centers (CGIAR), GIFT has since become a lifeline for small-scale farmers, providing a sustainable source of income, food, and nutrition while helping them adapt to climate change.

(Source: Wikimedia Commons)

A 2022 study by WorldFish and the Confederation of Indian Industry (CII) revealed a growing interest in Tilapia farming across India's eastern, western, and southern states. This trend is driven by rising prices of Carp and sea catch. India's current Tilapia production stands at approximately 70,000 metric tons, with 30,000 metric tons from aquaculture and 40,000 metric tons from wild catches.

The CII study projects India's Tilapia market to grow to over 0.766 million metric tons by 2027 and exceed 2.155 million metric tons by 2032. This aquatic chicken, as it's sometimes called, could significantly boost India's ambitious fish export goals.

Farmer’s dilemma

Globally, Tilapia farming has grown much faster than the aquaculture sector and other farmed aquatic species categories over the last twenty years. But In Andhra Pradesh, India's aquaculture hub, the Tilapia boom feels more like a bust. 

“Carps fetch anywhere between Rs 80 to Rs 100 per kg. But Tilapias fetch around Rs 10 to Rs 20 per kg, but their feed costs as much as the Carp. In Kerala, a fish called pearl spot or Etroplus, a close cousin of Tilapia, fetches almost 300 to 450 rupees per kg because of its taste,” said Eluri.

Eluri suffered significant losses due to the Tilapia invasion. To cut losses, farmers like Eluri have become creative, using dried and pulverised Tilapia as fish feed and soil fertiliser or selling it to Sea Bass farms. 

Getting rid of Tilapia also proves challenging. “The bigger fish are caught in the nets; however, mid-sized and small fish hide in the soil at the uneven pond bottom. Even if the pond is dried, there will be some eggs or small fish in the slush. They start multiplying once the water fills the pond," he said. 

India has a diverse palate. Proper planning is needed because a single species or strategy across the country may not be effective.

KK Vijayan, Former Director of the Central Institute of Brackishwater Aquaculture (ICAR-CIBA) Chennai and Former Head of the Marine Biotech Division, ICAR-CMFRI, Kochi, said Tilapia is not a one-size-fits-all solution. "India has a diverse palate. Proper planning is needed because a single species or strategy across the country may not be effective,” he said.

Tilapia that grows in brackish water are tastier and have more nutritional value as their bodies release a burst of antioxidants to counteract the salinity stress, he added.

(Source: Wikimedia Commons)

Growing problem

A 2021 study found the Mozambique Tilapia to be the most extensively distributed invasive fish in the region. In just two years, their population in the Yamuna River jumped from a fraction to 3.5% of total fish species. In Rajasthan's Jaisamand Lake, they've reduced the average weight of major Carp and threatened endangered Mahseers. Tilapias have infiltrated biodiversity hotspots like the Andaman Islands and the Western Ghats and are thriving in the marine environment in Palk Bay, Tamil Nadu.

According to Smrithy Raj, a postdoctoral fellow at the University of Kerala and one of the study's authors, the Western Ghats contain more than 300 species of freshwater fish, of which nearly 70% are endemic. Roughly one-third are threatened by flow regulation, pollution, invasive species, climate change, and overexploitation.

“And among these, biological invasion is the most rapid and widespread. When there are a lot of new invasive species coming in, there is a higher chance that some species in the wild will die out,” he said. Raj said the number of non-native exotic species in the Western Ghats has doubled after the floods.

“Earlier, only the Mozambique Tilapia variety was found, but at present, Nile Tilapia has become dominant in the water bodies. They compete with native fish species for food and shelter. The Pearlspot Cichlid (Etroplus suratensis), Kerala's state fish, is at high risk due to the invasion of Tilapia, as both species share a similar niche,” he added.

Tilapia farming also has its own set of challenges.

An expert from the Indian Council of Agricultural Research (ICAR) said Tilapia can meet the protein demand and is very easy to grow, which is why it is being promoted worldwide. However, the highly contagious Tilapia Lake virus, which causes sudden mortality in Tilapia, is a cause for concern.

According to Vijayan, to achieve a blue revolution, the government should focus on various fish species instead of a single species. “Tilapia has its market niche, depending on various factors. We could take a holistic approach based on consumption patterns. Understanding these consumption patterns and marketing strategies is crucial,” he said.

Meanwhile, Eluri said the government intervention is unwieldy.

“Mozambique Tilapia is a wild species, but the government is promoting the genetically modified variety (GIFT), which grows to a larger size. However, because the Mozambique Tilapia has been around for decades, people have developed an aversion towards the fish. As a result, even if farmers want to culture GIFT, there are no buyers.” he said.

In the end, the Tilapia dilemma is more than just a question of fish farming—it's a test of our ability to balance progress with preservation, innovation with tradition, and short-term gains with long-term sustainability. 

Ananyo Chatterjee
|
July 12, 2024
|
3
min read

What’s really in your street food?

Find out which street foods might be dangerous and how to stay safe

In India, street food is more than just food; it’s an adventure. Whether you’re looking for a quick bite or an excuse to hang out with friends, these food stalls have you covered. 

The famous Khau Gallis of Aamchi Mumbai are packed with hungry office workers and students ready to dive into a feast of pani puri, momos, and shawarmas. Meanwhile, Manek Chowk in Ahmedabad undergoes a nightly transformation from a bustling jewellery market to a food paradise, where scores of workers grate cheese with mechanical dedication, infusing it into everything from sandwiches to 'gotala' dosas. In Namma Bengaluru, the famous Rameshwaram Café takes pride in injecting its offerings with heart-stopping quantities of ghee. 

The smells, the flavours, the sheer joy of eating something delicious right off the cart is what makes street food so irresistible. But beneath all that flavour, these snacks often conceal serious public health risks. Recent studies have given us more reasons to pause and reconsider our love for these quick bites.

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Hidden dangers

Recent sampling in Karnataka found cancer-causing chemicals used as food colouring in many pani puri samples. Colours like sunset yellow, brilliant blue, and carmoisine, found in 19 out of 49 tested samples in Bengaluru, have raised health concerns. Officials are considering bans on these additives, but pani puri has long been a concern due to the water used, which is often contaminated and of uncertain origin.  And it's not just pani puri. Kebabs were previously under scrutiny for artificial coloring use, while rhodamine-B, a dye found in Gobi Manchurian and cotton candy, caused health scares earlier this year. Shawarmas have also been flagged for safety concerns. A survey by the Food Safety and Standards Authority of India (FSSAI) across 10 districts in Karnataka revealed that 8 out of 17 samples contained harmful bacteria and yeast, which could cause severe illnesses like diarrhea, food poisoning, and pneumonia.

While many are aware of the risks associated with street food, the severity is often underestimated. Contaminants are not always visible, and one frequent yet overlooked danger is the use of newspapers to wrap food.  Ink from newspapers can leach bioactive elements into food, posing serious health risks. If the newspaper is made from recycled paper, there’s the additional danger of metal contaminants and other harmful chemicals.

And then there is hygiene, a question almost entirely ignored in India’s street food culture.  A 2023 study in Kolkata found that only a quarter of food vendors covered their food after preparation, leaving it vulnerable to airborne contaminants. Almost half reused leftovers from the previous day, increasing the risk of infection and foodborne illnesses.

Be street smart

While government authorities strive to regulate and enforce bans on harmful substances in street foods, these measures take time and are not always consistently applied. As consumers, it's essential to exercise caution. When indulging in street food, consider asking vendors about their water sources, consulting locals for trusted stalls, and opting for fried foods to minimize risk.

Alternatively, there are plenty of healthy snack options to enjoy. A mixed bowl of nuts like almonds, pistachios, cashews, and peanuts offers healthy fats, protein, and fiber without the risk of illness. Dark chocolate, rich in antioxidants, is another tasty choice. Fresh fruits also make a satisfying and nutritious addition to your snack repertoire.

Shreyas S Kumar
|
July 4, 2024
|
4
min read

Is a world without farmers possible?

Masanobu Fukuoka believed humanity's essence is rooted in plant life.

Farming has been a key part of human life for thousands of years, but things are changing. The number of farmers worldwide has dropped from 1 billion in 2000 to 866 million in 2021 - a 13.4% decrease.

(Source: FAO)

Some economists even argue that a world without agriculture could be feasible if developing countries adopt the model set by developed countries, where the share of employment in agriculture is minimal. Land consolidation and technological advances could maintain or even increase production with fewer farmers, freeing smallholders to pursue more lucrative urban careers.

However, this radical idea has some problems. Modern farming methods, including those from the Green Revolution, contribute a lot to global warming. Also, as the world's population grows (expected to reach 9.8 billion by 2050), we'll need more food and more land to grow it on. Some estimates suggest we'll need an additional landmass twice the size of India to feed the growing population. 

The great and characteristic problem of industrial agriculture is that it does not distinguish one place from another.

The Midwest of the United States shows what large-scale industrial farming looks like. You see huge fields growing just one type of crop, usually corn or soybeans. This approach has removed much of the natural variety of plants and animals that used to exist in these areas. Wendell Berry, a writer and environmental activist, says this makes all the fields look the same. He also points out that modern tractors separate farmers from direct contact with nature.

Then there is genetically modified (GM) food. Unlike traditional farming methods that rely on natural crossbreeding and selection, GM technology allows scientists to introduce new traits into organisms faster and more precisely. This could lead to crops that are resistant to pests, more nutritious, or grow faster. Some people believe GM foods can help increase food production and reduce the need for harmful chemicals, but others are concerned about the effects on our health and the environment.

<spanclass = 'display-text pretty text-color-dark-green'>As farming becomes more focused on technology and large farms, it's losing its sense of community. In the past, farming was not just a job but a way of life that connected people to their neighbours and the land.</span>

Impact

Farming has been central to human existence since the agricultural revolution about 10,000 years ago. Peter C. Timmer, Professor emeritus of Development studies at Harvard, highlighted the role agriculture has played in lifting populations out of poverty: Historically, almost all poverty alleviation schemes are intractably linked to a “successful structural transformation” in agriculture, which leads to higher productivity rates and increasing wages which then expunge ‘absolute poverty’. Timmer said agriculture has set the economic gears in motion.

However, as economies grow, they usually become less dependent on agriculture. Based on the assumption that food spending remains relatively constant even with an increase in income, a low-income family would spend the majority of their income (e.g., 70%) on food, and as their income increases, this percentage would decrease. Consider India, where agriculture's contribution to GDP hovers around 17.59%—far above the global average of 4.32% (as of 2022). Yet 65% of Indians still depend on agriculture for their livelihood. This mismatch between economic output and employment exposes deeper structural fault lines.

Globally, the three biggest agricultural producers are India, China, and the USA. China and the USA have mostly switched to machine-based farming, showing the trend towards industrialisation.

Risks

Masanobu Fukuoka, the influential Japanese farmer and philosopher, believed humanity's essence is rooted in plant life. He argued that nature tends towards balance and harmony, ensuring equilibrium among all living things. Any disruption to this balance, he warned, could lead to ecological crises and human alienation.

Masanobu Fukuoka (Source: Designer AI)

Fukuoka's "do-nothing" philosophy of farming advocates for minimal intervention in natural processes. The approach stands in stark contrast to the intensive methods of industrial agriculture, raising important questions about sustainability and our relationship with nature. The potential consequences of a world with fewer farmers are far-reaching:

Spiritual and psychological impact: Through a Fukuokan lens, severing our connection to nature through farming could lead to spiritual alienation. This isn't just a philosophical speculation. Harvard Health Publishing reports that spending time in nature significantly reduces cortisol levels, a key stress hormone. Another study found an almost proportional decrease in stress levels as people visited areas with increasing greenery.

Environmental effects: If farms become too large, it might make sustainable farming practices nearly impossible. If we focus only on producing as much food as possible, we could destroy much of the natural variety of plants and animals in favour of crops that make money. This would break a 10,000-year-old connection between humans and nature, likely causing many unexpected problems. Experts agree that we need a new, more sustainable approach to farming that considers more than just production.

Economic impact on developing countries: In poorer countries, improving agriculture is often necessary before the wider economy can grow. The idea of combining small farms into larger ones, which might work in richer countries, is much harder to do in poorer nations where there are many small farmers with tiny plots of land. Ironically, to move away from agriculture, these countries first need to make their farming more effective. 

Food producers of the world (Source: https://cgspace.cgiar.org/items/a248e930-9cbf-4b83-997d-d588b1aec81e)

Farming 2.0

With the world's population growing and the need for food increasing, encouraging small farmers could be the way forward - making farming a viable career while connecting it to the wider market. It could also address the ageing farmer population, potentially attracting younger generations to the profession. However, any efforts to encourage farming must also consider environmental concerns.

Simply moving people away from farming by promoting urban or industrial jobs can cause problems. A sudden increase in people looking for work in cities could lead to lower wages and overcrowded urban areas, which could slow down economic growth.

Instead of abandoning small farmers, we should find ways to help them use modern technology and sustainable practices such as precision farming techniques for small plots, methods that increase biodiversity, and better access to markets through digital platforms.

Our relationship with the land isn't just about producing food. It's about maintaining our connection to nature, preserving the variety of plant and animal life, and ensuring the health of our planet for future generations. The future of farming isn't about getting rid of it, but about changing it for the better. By supporting small farmers and giving them the tools to succeed in a changing world, we can work towards a more sustainable planet.

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