“If we use antibiotics when not needed, we may not have them when they are most needed,” Dr Tom Frieden, former director of the US CDC.

Antimicrobial resistance is knocking at humanity’s door, and the warnings have been ringing loud and clear. Since the advent of antimicrobial medicines in the 1920s, these drugs have increased our average lifespan by 23 years and saved countless lives. However, the overuse and misuse of antibiotics, antifungals, antivirals, and antiparasitics have created a vicious cycle of resistant pathogens, rendering these life-saving medicines increasingly ineffective.

We now stand at the brink of a post-antibiotic era, where common diseases are no longer treatable by these drugs.

Global health crisis

But what happens when bacteria adapt, and our bodies stop responding to these medicines? That’s when antimicrobial resistance (AMR) sets in. “Common diseases are becoming untreatable.” That’s the blunt warning issued on page one of a 2019 United Nations report on drug resistance.

When antibiotics and other antimicrobials lose effectiveness, infections become harder—or even impossible—to treat, raising the risk of disease spread, severe illness, and death. Misuse, such as taking antibiotics when they’re not needed or failing to follow prescriptions, enables bacteria to adapt and become resistant, complicating future treatments.

As antibiotics lose their effectiveness, experts have warned for years of a ‘silent’ global health crisis. Some argue that the rise in AMR cases could make the COVID-19 crisis pale in comparison.

“Antimicrobial resistance could unwind 100 years of medical progress, making infections that are easily treatable today a death sentence,” said Tedros Adhanom Ghebreyesus, the World Health Organization director-general, at a news conference in September. “No country is immune to this threat, but low- and middle-income countries bear the greatest burden.”

Indian picture

One out of every eight people worldwide lives in India, and with that concentration of humanity comes an equally concentrated problem of antimicrobial resistance. India’s struggle with AMR is paradoxical, with people suffering both from a lack of access to antibiotics and from fatal AMR infections.

According to a analysis, between 300,000 to 1.1 million Indians lost their lives to AMR in 2019. The superbug crisis has taken a toll on India's healthcare system. 

The three most common antibiotic-resistant pathogens here are E. coli, causing gut infections; Klebsiella pneumoniae, which leads to pneumonia and urinary tract infections; and Acinetobacter baumannii, associated mainly with hospital-acquired infections.

A concerning number of children in India are born with infections resistant to most antibiotics, resulting in over 58,000 infant deaths within a year. Just five years ago, the situation wasn’t this severe. The rapid rise of AMR in India stems from multiple factors: lack of clean water, harmful bacteria prevalent from soil to sewage, and widespread environmental contamination.

With a population of 1.5 billion, India is well aware of the urgency of addressing Antimicrobial Resistance (AMR). The Indian government has already created a national action plan to tackle the issue, which recognizes the importance of tackling all four key drivers of AMR: humans, animals, food, and environment.

Recognizing the country-specific challenges like untreated water waste, improper discard of livestock, and use of sludge in agriculture, the plan takes a comprehensive approach to address the issue from multiple angles.

While similar factors drive AMR in other countries, India lacks adequate data and research on AMR trends. Researchers, scientists, and doctors are charting new territory in the fight against AMR, with experts calling for a unified data system and standard operating procedures to monitor AMR effectively. Planning, monitoring progress, and reassessing the approach are critical steps to ensure India can manage this growing crisis effectively.

Unschooled 

AMR has always been an integral part of our everyday lives, but it's been largely ignored in the pages of our science textbooks and in public discourse. However, after spending nearly two years cooped up in our homes during the pandemic, AMR has suddenly been thrust into the spotlight.

With a newfound focus on health, food, and medicine, people have become increasingly aware of the importance of AMR and the urgent need to address it. The global COVID-19 lockdown has served as a wake-up call, making AMR one of the hottest topics in health and science today.

Every year since 2015, the World Health Organization has designated November 18-24 as World AMR Awareness Week (WAAW) to draw attention to the alarming problem of antimicrobial resistance, which is affecting the health of humans, animals, plants, and the environment alike. In 2024, the theme for WAAW is “Educate. Advocate. Act Now.”, chosen after receiving valuable input from around 200 stakeholders from diverse areas of health.

Silent threat

Year after year, medical journals and publications report on this “invisible killer,” often referred to as the “silent pandemic” or even “evolution in action.” Beyond human health, antibiotics are used heavily in agriculture, livestock farming, and aquaculture, further fueling their spread across our environment.

Throughout November, the Good Food Movement will cover these topics and more as part of the World Health Organization’s AMR awareness week.

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The apple harvest in Himachal Pradesh's famed orchards has come up short this season, as the state’s collection centres have received only 3.61 lakh metric tonnes (LMT) of apples, a big drop from last year's 3.84 LMT. The dip has been attributed to several factors, according to Rakesh Thakur, an apple orchard owner in Shimla. “This year, the season, which typically runs from June 27 to October 25, started late. Ageing orchards are being replaced, and some farmers are shifting to other crops for year-round income. We’ve also faced setbacks from fungal infections.”

While the old adage about an apple a day keeping the doctor away may still hold some truth, the stakes are higher. According to a 2022 mBio study, 13% of sampled apples from northern India were found to harbour the drug-resistant fungus Candida auris, which has been linked to severe infections and carries a mortality rate of 34%, according to the Centres for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC) data.

With such high risks associated with this potentially deadly pathogen, the message is loud and clear: keep your apple safe by thoroughly washing it before taking a bite.

The presence of drug-resistant fungus on fruits like apples is just the tip of the iceberg. The broader, underlying issue is antimicrobial resistance (AMR) in our food systems, where once-healthy soil has become a breeding ground for antibiotic-resistant bacteria.

The increasing use of antimicrobials in agriculture, often used to boost crop yield and protect plants from diseases, is contaminating the soil with these substances. “Increasing use of antimicrobials in agriculture is contaminating the soil, leading to the emergence and selection of resistant strains,” said Rajesh Bhatia, former director of communicable diseases for WHO's South-East Asia regional office.

How AMR enters our soil

As global food demand rises, so too does the use of antibiotics to speed up livestock growth and protect crops from disease. While these practices may offer short-term gains, they also inadvertently create a long-term problem: antibiotic-resistant bacteria in soil. 

These resistant bacteria can spread and survive in soil through multiple routes, including seeds, soil additives, irrigation water, and especially animal manure used as fertiliser. Antibiotics given to livestock often remain in their manure, and when this manure is applied to fields, it releases antibiotic residues and resistance genes into the environment.

AMR bacteria can contaminate crops, get into water supplies, and pass resistance to bacteria that infect people. As a result, common infections could become harder to treat, causing longer illnesses and more deaths. “The food we eat plays a critical role in the dynamics of AMR, largely due to the overuse of antibiotics. Intensive farming practices often involve giving animals antibiotics to promote growth and prevent disease, leading to resistant bacteria that can enter the human food chain,” said Dr Akhlesh Tandekar, head consultant of critical care at Wockhardt Hospitals Mira Road.

A recent study confirmed that animal manure often contains antibiotics like tetracyclines, sulfonamides, and fluoroquinolones, all of which contribute to the growth of AMR in soil. These resistant microbes can easily find their way onto nearby crops.

The food we eat plays a critical role in the dynamics of AMR, largely due to the overuse of antibiotics. Intensive farming practices often involve giving animals antibiotics to promote growth and prevent disease.

“Antimicrobials and bacteria from these sources also adapt and exchange genetic material, creating more resistant strains. Through the food chain, humans and animals can become exposed to these resistant pathogens,” said Bhatia. 

In a 2021 study, researchers at the University of Nebraska-Lincoln found that over 60% of the antimicrobial resistance (AMR) genes found on lettuce leaves were traced back to soil that had been fertilised with animal manure.

Moreover, antibiotics are sometimes applied directly to plants, enhancing crop health and yields. However, this practice also fuels the spread of resistant bacteria in the soil. "For instance, tetracyclines are injected into tree trunks to combat citrus diseases like huanglongbing (HLB) and sprayed on pears and apples to prevent fire blight. Although effective, such practices add to the growing issue of resistance in soils, posing risks across the food chain," said Vidyut Singh, a pear farmer in Kullu.

Climate change then compounds the issue. "Rising temperatures create favourable conditions for bacteria to multiply, while excessive rains and water accumulation create an ideal environment for pathogens," said Bhatia.

Why it matters to you

In 2023, the WHO identified AMR as one of the top global public health threats. And the alarming part? These bacteria don’t respond to common antibiotics. "If they cause infections, doctors have fewer treatment options, turning a mild infection into a serious, potentially life-threatening condition. When people consume foods carrying antibiotic-resistant bacteria, they face the risk of infections that require longer hospital stays and can increase mortality rates," said Dr Tandekar.

According to the WHO, bacterial AMR caused an estimated 1.27 million deaths and contributed to an additional 4.95 million in 2019 alone. If left unchecked, the impact of AMR is predicted to be catastrophic, with an estimated 10 million deaths worldwide by 2050. India, with its vast population, carries a disproportionate burden of drug-resistant pathogens, highlighting the urgent need for action and interventions to mitigate this crisis.

For farmers, the impact is even more immediate. "Resistant bacteria degrade soil health, reducing crop yields. This forces farmers to rely on even more chemicals, creating a vicious cycle that is hard to break. Addressing AMR is crucial not just for our health, but for the sustainability of agriculture and food security," said Thakur.

Solutions for AMR-free farming

The challenge is significant. “India’s National Action Plan on AMR (2017-2021) highlighted the importance of a One Health approach, integrating efforts across human, animal, and environmental health. However, implementation faltered due to the pandemic and limited engagement from the environmental sector,” said Bhatia.

Despite setbacks, experts believe India's farming sector can still turn the tide. Here are their recommendations:

But India’s farming sector can still turn the tide. Here’s what the experts recommended:

• Go organic: Organic farming avoids antibiotics and synthetic pesticides, fostering healthier soil microbes that combat resistant bacteria. India has 2.6 million hectares under organic farming, fifth largest in the world, supported by the GOI’s Paramparagat Krishi Vikas Yojana, but broader adoption is needed.
• Integrated pest management (IPM): By using natural pest predators, crop rotation, and habitat modifications, IPM reduces reliance on chemicals, limiting resistant bacteria in the soil.
• Stricter regulation & awareness: Stronger enforcement of antibiotic regulations and educating farmers about AMR risks are essential. Public health campaigns should target rural areas to ensure greater awareness.
• Monitoring soil health: Focus on Soil Health Management (SHM) under the National Mission for Sustainable Agriculture (NMSA), by combining chemical fertilisers with organic manures and bio-fertilisers to improve soil health and productivity.

Protecting our soil from resistant bacteria means safeguarding our crops, health, and the future of Indian agriculture. That future depends on the choices we make today–in the fields, in research labs, and at our dinner tables.

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Earlier this year, the International Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN) released its first global analysis of mangroves. The findings were alarming: half of the world’s mangrove ecosystems are at risk of collapse. The primary culprit? Human activity.

While the report highlighted mangrove degradation in southern India, similar destruction is unfolding elsewhere. In the same month, media reported mangrove loss in Maharashtra, heavy metal pollution in the Sundarbans, and mangroves being cleared in Gujarat to build a cricket ground.

A vital ecosystem

The Indian peninsula, with one of the world's longest coastlines and a tropical climate that supports mangroves, has 43 of the 80 true mangrove species, second only to Indonesia, according to a report by the Indian Institute of Science, Bengaluru. These ecosystems thrive in brackish water, where most plants cannot survive.

Researchers repeatedly emphasise the crucial role mangroves play in combating climate change. They reduce the impact of storm surges during cyclones, decreasing both wave height and speed. Their tangled roots help prevent flooding and absorb significant amounts of carbon dioxide. Additionally, mangroves provide habitats for crabs and other crustaceans, boosting local fish populations and supporting marine ecosystems. These salt-tolerant plants, known as halophytes, can flourish in environments where most vegetation cannot survive.

Urbanisation vs restoration

As India's fragile coastal areas balance urbanisation and restoration, nonprofit organisations have stepped up to compensate for the lack of government support. They're planting hundreds of thousands of mangrove trees to restore these natural barriers.

“Real estate is a major concern because a city like Mumbai is expanding. Since there is no land, the only way to expand is into the ocean,” said Radhika Jahveri, an environmental activist. “The Navi Mumbai airport project is entirely built on CRZ1 [coastal regulation zone which includes mangroves],” she added.

According to the notification, no new construction is permitted in these zones, but that’s clearly not the case here. In 2009, the CRZ rules were amended to allow airport construction after repeated pleas from local politicians.

The latest 2019 notification requires that a minimum of three times the mangrove area affected, destroyed, or cut during construction be compensated by planting new mangroves. One of the most important voices in the city’s environmental conscience, Stalin D, the director of Vanashakti, said the biggest joke is that there is currently no space for compensatory afforestation of mangroves. “Wherever mangroves could have grown, they are already growing,” he said.

Human impact

“Flooding has worsened in the villages, especially in Raigad and Uran. The villagers who settled here 100-200 years ago knew the area was safe. But today, the entire surrounding land has been reclaimed. The villages have sunk by three metres.”

“Naturally, instead of spreading out in the flood-holding zones, the water is now entering the villages,” he added.

Nandakumar Pawar, a member of the Vanashakti NGO and part of a fishing community, has witnessed the impact of mangrove destruction firsthand.

“Where we live on the coast, a mangrove forest used to be right in our backyard. Our tradition was to cast our nets and catch plenty of fresh fish; we never relied on frozen or dead fish from the market,” he recalled. However, things have changed dramatically.

Until the early 90s, fishing conditions were still favourable. Gradually, urban development began to take over the region. Today, fisherfolk struggle to find any fish in Thane Creek, the largest creek in Asia, which connects three regions. It is now contaminated beyond imagination, as noted by Pawar, who has been documenting the ecological damage for decades.

Toxic waste, sewage, and other chemicals have polluted the water bodies, severely affecting fish breeding grounds. As a result, only a handful of species remain. “Oysters and crabs have been completely wiped out,” he said.

Kerala’s coastline

Meanwhile, Kerala has lost 95 percent of its mangroves in the last three to four decades. From 700 square km in 1975, the state’s mangrove cover has dwindled to just 24 square km. Over half of the remaining mangroves are privately owned, making them difficult to protect.

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In 2021, government authorities planned to acquire around 51 hectares of private land with mangroves in Thrissur, Kollam, Malappuram and Kannur districts. However, in 2023, the project was halted for unknown reasons.

While authorities remain indecisive, fishermen like TP Murukesan are taking action. Over the past decade, Murukesan has planted more than one lakh mangrove saplings in Malappuram, despite the financial burden. He believes that if reforestation continues, the landscape will improve within the next decade.

Read more: A fisherman's inspiring fight to save Kerala's coast

The Sundarbans

To the east lies the Sundarbans, the largest mangrove ecosystem on the planet, which has lost nearly 25 percent of its area in the past three decades due to relentless erosion.

Ayush Sarda, a 25-year-old environmental advocate with the Sundarban Foundation, has spent four years working to restore this vital ecosystem. He recalls planting mangrove saplings just seven to nine inches tall; many have now grown into sturdy four-foot trees. “We’ve planted about one lakh mangrove trees in the Birajnagar blocks of Gosaba Island,” he said.

The Sundarbans, surrounded by saline water, lack drinkable freshwater, forcing locals to dig deep borewells or rely on scarce freshwater lakes. Here, mangroves serve as a barrier, keeping saltwater at bay.

Sarda said mangroves once extended as far as Kalighat, now overrun by urban expansion. As a result, cyclones have intensified, rainfall patterns have become erratic, and climate change is affecting urban areas like Kolkata, where winters are warming and summers are scorching.

“We need to ensure high survival rates,” said Sarda. The foundation has achieved a 90% survival rate among the mangroves it planted, while many other initiatives struggle with survival rates of only 60% or 70%.

In 2020, to compensate for the damage caused by cyclone Amphan, the West Bengal government planned to plant five crore mangrove propagules (seeds). Experts called the plan ‘improbable,’ citing lack of space as a major factor, among other concerns. Two years later, most of the mangroves planted between 2020 and 2022 have washed away.

Untapped potential

At the largest Pichavaram mangroves in Tamil Nadu, tourism aims to help people connect with and appreciate nature. However, authorities have yet to address the lack of infrastructure and mismanagement.

The verdant system, spread over 1,000 hectares, suffered destruction during the 2004 tsunami, after which little or no effort has been made by authorities to develop the infrastructure. The government's lack of attention and awareness is leading to further deterioration of the ecosystem.

Earlier in 2024, the International Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN) organisation's first global mangrove assessment stated that mangroves covering the Tamil Nadu coast are critically endangered. 

Local environmentalists argue that the government should focus on promoting community-led tourism to fully tap the region's potential. They also urge the government to establish a learning centre at Pichavaram dedicated to all things related to mangroves, particularly for researchers.

Time is running out

India’s mangroves are in peril, and the consequences of inaction are clear. These vital ecosystems protect our coastlines, support biodiversity, and help combat climate change. Without immediate and sustained efforts, from both government and communities, the future of India’s mangroves–and the people who depend on them–remains uncertain.

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In Bidire village in Karnataka’s Hassan district, Sudha faced an unexpected turning point when her husband lost his job in Channarayapatna. As her family struggled to make ends meet, Sudha decided to use the opportunity–and her land–to change their future. “Our family was struggling,” she said, “so one day, we decided to make use of our vacant land.” And with that, a small dairy farm began, along with a few rows of banana plants, marking the start of a journey toward stability.

The first year saw the family steadily gain revenue from dairy sales, enough to expand into poultry farming with a focus on country chickens and egg sales. Today, Sudha has cleared her debts and lives a content, self-sufficient life. Her story serves as a vivid example of resilience, illustrating how job loss can sometimes pave the way to a thriving, independent life in rural India.

Return to the roots

Between 2020 and 2021, India saw a 28.9% migration rate, with rural areas contributing to 26.5% of this movement. Remarkably, a growing segment of these individuals–10.8%--moved in search of employment, only to return to agriculture. 

The recent Periodic Labour Force Survey (PLFS) released by the Ministry of Statistics and Programme Implementation highlights this shift. From July 2023 to June 2024, approximately 46.1% of India’s workforce was involved in agriculture–a rise from 42.5% in 2018-19. 

Sudha’s story reflects the emerging landscape of rural employment. While challenges persist, such examples of resilience offer hope, showing how individual initiative and adaptability can lead to empowerment and self-sufficiency.

Economic pressures

For countless landless and daily wage labourers, returning to their villages during the pandemic became a test of resilience. Pappu, from Naugawa, shared his story of walking nearly 800 kilometres from Surat to his home in Banda district-a journey that took him 26 days. Upon arrival, he endured another 15 days in quarantine, isolated but finally safe. Another villager, Bhaiyaram Lakshman, trekked from Hyderabad, sometimes receiving lifts, yet his journey still stretched over 15 exhausting days. He reached home with swollen, blistered feet. For both men, life remained harsh; their families, already grappling with hunger, now had additional mouths to feed. Despite relentless job searches, no work was available nearby. Survival hinged on support from voluntary groups and organisations, which stepped in with food and essentials, bridging the gap as employment opportunities remained scarce.

Agriculture is one sector that can absorb as many as it can. People tried to return to the cities, but jobs were scarce. This trend has contributed to a 3-4% increase in agricultural employment over the past five years.

The economic fallout of COVID-19 left 9.3% of urban workers jobless, according to the latest Periodic Labour Force Survey (PLFS). Once seen as hubs of prosperity, cities have become increasingly unaffordable, especially in tier-1 and tier-2 locales, as the cost of essentials like food, housing, and transport continues to climb. Industrial workers, who earn an average of Rs 563 per day (around Rs 14,075 per month) according to the Annual Survey of Industries (ASI), often find themselves stretched thin.

For many, the weight of urban financial strain prompted a re-evaluation, drawing them back to rural life where agriculture offers a more sustainable, if hard-won, livelihood. "During COVID-19, many people who depended on unorganised work in the cities went back to their native places,” said Dr SR Keshava, economist and HOD at Bangalore University. “Agriculture is one sector that can absorb as many as it can. People tried to return to the cities, but jobs were scarce. This trend has contributed to a 3-4% increase in agricultural employment over the past five years."

The pandemic spurred a migration reversal, redirecting thousands back to their roots, where farming–though challenging–has offered a measure of stability and self-reliance that urban industries could not.

Methodology

Between July 2023 and June 2024, an extensive survey was conducted across 12,800 first-stage units (FSUs) throughout India, comprising 7,016 villages and 5,784 urban frame survey (UFS) blocks. Of these, 12,743 FSUs (6,975 villages and 5,768 urban blocks) were successfully surveyed for canvassing the Periodic Labour Force Survey (PLFS).

In total, 1,01,920 households were surveyed, with 55,796 households from rural areas and 46,124 from urban areas. The survey covered 4,18,159 individuals, of which 2,42,546 were from rural areas and 1,75,613 from urban areas.

The sample also included 3,19,773 individuals aged 15 years and above, with 1,80,793 from rural areas and 1,38,980 from urban areas. This data provides a comprehensive snapshot of the surveyed population's labour force characteristics across India’s rural and urban regions.

The PLFS survey methodology was robust, covering a large and diverse sample size. Surveyors collected data from rural and urban households, painting a detailed picture of how labour dynamics have evolved over time. The survey allows policymakers to assess the effects of urban migration, job loss, and the shift back to agriculture with greater accuracy, guiding future decisions.

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Ripple effects

The increase in India’s farming population brings both opportunities and challenges. On the positive side, more farmers could boost agricultural production, enhance food security, and open up growth in sectors like agro-processing. A strengthened rural economy could lead to job creation and increased exports, bringing long-term benefits to the country. “In case if more job opportunities are created in other sectors especially in manufacturing, agriculture will also be productive and the d-sector will also get the workforce,” Keshava said.

However, this shift also raises concerns about the strain on natural resources such as land and water. Overcrowding in the agricultural sector could reduce the productivity of individual farmers unless steps are taken to support sustainable farming practices. The government will need to invest in farmer education and infrastructure to ensure that this trend benefits both the rural and national economies in the long run.

“In all developed countries, there is a clear pattern of how sectors evolved. They moved from an agricultural economy to an industrial economy and then to a service economy. However, in India, a large part of the population moved directly from an agricultural economy to a service economy, bypassing the industrial stage. This is not the right approach.

If India wants to become a developed country by 2027, the share of agriculture in the economy should reduce to around 15%. Currently, the surplus labour is in agriculture, which is why productivity in the sector is low. Dr BR Ambedkar noted this in 1917, and every economist suggests the same solution: shifting surplus labour to other sectors. Unfortunately, due to the unprecedented pandemic and government facilities and subsidies, more people have returned to agriculture. However, this percentage may decrease in the next two years,” he added.

In the wake of economic pressures, agriculture has offered a safety net for many. While this transition has the potential to reshape rural economies and bolster food security, it must be managed carefully to avoid overburdening resources. By embracing sustainable practices and ensuring proper infrastructure, India can navigate this shift in its workforce, balancing growth with long-term sustainability.

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We often don't know who grows our vegetables and fruits, or where and how they are grown. Kai Thota, which literally means kitchen garden, is a backyard farm near Bengaluru working to change that.

The one-acre farm, managed by 24 women from the Mayuri Shakti organisation, follows a community-supported agriculture (CSA) or crop-sharing model. They deliver fresh greens to urban Bengaluru, cutting out middlemen and simplifying the conventional supply chain.

The farm is located in Ragihalli, less than 30 kilometres from central Bengaluru. The area, a mix of scrubland and dry deciduous forest in the valleys, has been marked as an eco-sensitive zone (ESZ). it's under constant pressure from urbanisation, impacting its resources and forest management. "When the forest department takes over the land, it becomes really hard for farmers to make a living," said Geetha, an expert farmer who has been with Kai Thota since day one at a discussion at Bangalore International Centre (BIC). Since these locals farm organically, their income is lower than in neighbouring panchayats. But the women, along with the Ragihalli panchayat, prioritise quality over quantity, even though market demands suggest otherwise.

The people of Ragihalli rely heavily on agriculture. However, limited farming space and conflicts with the forest department have driven many to seek work in Bengaluru. Before turning to farming, some women worked in factories in Jigani and Anekal, stayed at home, or found job in a local bakery.

Biodiversity and community farming

What are the farmers growing? Pretty much everything. In total, 80 varieties of fruits and vegetables thrive on this land. These include taro (arbi), bottle gourd, amaranth, Malabar spinach, papaya, cauliflower, brinjals, knol-khol, onions, white yam, okra, mint, sweet potato, turmeric, gongura, radish, spring onions, snake gourd, carrots, chillies, doddapatre, curry leaves, lemongrass, shallots, ash gourd, and perennial coriander. The biodiversity on each of the 31 plots creates its own microclimate. 

Despite the labour-intensive work compared to monocropping, the women find the rewards fulfilling. The women also educate customers by adding local weeds to their baskets and sharing cooking tips. Many of these weeds are highly nutritious, and this effort spreads awareness about edible weeds while showcasing the local women's expertise. 

People who destroy ecosystems act collectively, so working alone isn’t enough.

Nikhil Shenoy, a member of Kai Thota, said the goal is for city dwellers to learn how to incorporate these plants into their diets. “These grow in Bengaluru too, but we don’t know about them,” he added.

Shenoy, trained as a mechanical engineer, eventually realised his passion for agriculture. He spent around five years with MKSS in Rajasthan, practising farming in water-scarce regions, before coming to Bengaluru. 

“When you start growing for customers, there's a different kind of pressure to deliver–one that doesn’t exist when you’re just growing for yourself.” 

He believes organic farming is part of a larger philosophy where you work within the system, not as a lone individual. "People who destroy ecosystems act collectively, so working alone isn’t enough."

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Autonomy and sustainable farming

The women typically work from 9 am to 1 pm, marking their attendance daily. Along with managing the plots, they maintain a nursery, eliminating the need to travel 40 kilometres to Chandapura for saplings. The goal is to foster their independence and autonomy.

Currently, they're rebuilding the soil beds to prevent water stagnation during the rains. "For the women, it’s a new experience; they’re learning, and so are we," said Shenoy.

Beyond giving them ownership, the aim is to help them understand that being in an ecologically sensitive zone brings advantages, like biodiversity. Shenoy recalled a snail infestation during the rainy season, but birds quickly dealt with it. "If this had happened in a city, the farmer would’ve had to use external inputs to control the snails," he pointed out. 

Natural solutions

When the women noticed an increase in fruit flies, they made a fruit fly trap. “Once you have the problem, you think of a solution,” said Shenoy. “Now we’re dealing with rats. We’ll see if nature resolves it; otherwise, we’ll figure something out.”

They also prepare a popular organic insect repellent called Dashaparni, made from a mix of ten leaves. 

The Ragihalli panchayat is surrounded on all sides by Bannerghatta National Park, the only corridor for elephants to move between the Western and Eastern Ghats. 

"Ragi and paddy attract them because they’re more nutritious than what’s available in the forest," said Nishant Srinivasaiah in a Land Body Ecologies discussion. The farm is solar-fenced to protect the plants and produce from marauding animals. 

Scaling sustainable agriculture initiatives

Kai Thota’s vision follows a three-fold plan. The first step is the current model. Next, they aim to scale it to an organisational level, where IT companies can provide fresh greens to their employees. The third model will involve larger-scale planting.

"We can implement a vegetable basket CSA where people can either come and pick their own harvest in any combination or have it delivered," Shenoy said. They also want to introduce a nutri-garden programme for schools and colleges. 

Through the government’s NREGA scheme, the school or panchayat would provide land and labour, while the agriculture department would supply drip irrigation. Children would get involved in sowing and weeding activities. "Right now, D1 and D2 plots operate like that," said Shenoy.

Abheek, an alternative learning school in Gottigere, has subscribed to two plots. Every Wednesday, the children come from 10 am to 1 pm to help, followed by a one-hour class exploring and understanding the area. The group’s progress is visible in the land, the way they share knowledge, and their efforts to restore lost food diversity.

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A gag is either a joke or something that cuts off your air. Rohan Chakravarty’s comic strips capture both ideas. His humour is sharp, but it highlights the suffocating reality of our planet’s state.

Sea Ice? Now You Don’t is his latest book in the Green Humour collection, featuring comic strips published in The Hindu, Times of India, Roundglass Sustain, and DW News.

From woolly mammoths asking elephants about their "trimmer," to illustrated flight announcements reading, “Expect some turbulence: large-scale habitat destruction, mass hunting, and climate change on our path. Enjoy the flight, and thanks for choosing the East Asian–Australasian Flyway, the world’s most endangered flyway,” his work touches on everything. For first-time readers, the comics promise fun. For the uninitiated, it’s akin to a walk in nature. And for complacent readers, there’s a clear call to action.

Green humour

‍Green Humour has been around for 14 years, serving as a wellspring of news, research and quaint curiosities about all things green. Chakravarty, from Nagpur, said,  “In 2010, while dabbling with my cartoons, I didn’t know which direction to take my work. Nagzira is one of the tiger reserves close to Nagpur. In fact, Nagpur is called the tiger capital of the world because of its proximity to many tiger reserves around. Around this time, I had a tiger sighting that gave me the idea of volunteering for Kids for Tigers, an organisation that takes school kids on nature trails, birdwatching walks etc.” Soon after, Green Humour became a blog, and in 2013, national publications began running the cartoons.

While cartoons are often seen as something just for kids, Chakravarty doesn’t put an age limit on his readers.“Recently, I got feedback from an eighth grader on Sea Ice at a Bangalore literature festival where I spoke. He said he and his peers greatly enjoyed the book because I don't dumb down my voice. Though they had to Google or check things with their parents, they were drawn to the books as I spoke to them as I would to an adult, to a person my age.”

Black humour

Finding humour in grim developments, such as a 73% decline in wildlife populations, hasn't been easy. Beyond moments of self-doubt, Chakravarty says that the impact of his work keeps him motivated. "From feedback like this to making more significant differences, I feel fortunate. For instance, in 2020, when the government decided to scrap the Environmental Impact Assessment (EIA), I drew the then environment minister as a superhero called 'Clearance Man.'"

In the cartoon, wherever he flew, trees were cut down, and corporations were thrilled. The strip became the online face of the movement against the draft EIA and helped gather six lakh signatures, putting the government on the back foot.

“I’ve realised this small humble art form, combined with bigger forces like social media or people’s movements, has the potential to create a tangible impact,” said Chakravarty, who won the WWF International President’s Award in 2017.

Indian reality is rife with paradoxical stances on ecological conservation. Chakravarty said the sheer absurdity of certain environmental initiatives makes him feel as if material for his work is being served to him on a platter.

“I think Project Cheetah was like a cartoon strip from the word go, and even experts were aware of it. Yet, it was executed with such pomp and show. We all know that today, most of the cheetahs have unfortunately perished, and the ones that remain still languish in captivity. Many similar decisions are being made across the country, and to me, they are perfect subjects for cartoons.”

But to the country, they represent ecological disasters, like the current plan to turn Great Nicobar into a Hong Kong or a Singapore, regardless of its strong indigenous tribal population.

I’ve realised this small humble art form, combined with bigger forces like social media or people’s movements, has the potential to create a tangible impact.

“They say that in the next four or five years, Nicobar will experience compensatory afforestation in Haryana. That is a cartoon punchline, but unfortunately, the government doesn’t see it that way,” he said. 

“Is the country willing to pay the price for such an approach? That's the big question. Similarly, in the Northeast, hundreds and hundreds of dams are coming up in seismically fragile zones. And we can only guess where this will lead the country.”  Chakravarty, who trained as a dentist, believes this disconnect stems from a gap between governance and science, not just bureaucratic stubbornness. “We don’t have a culture of speaking science to, you know, people in power.”

The process

With his deep commitment to science and research, Chakravarty put in rigorous work to unearth the most fascinating stories. “The process is very random, as are my series. It could involve an animal or bird I’ve encountered casually on a walk or environmental news, which requires a lot of fact-checking, including discussions with experts. For the book Naturalist Ruddy, I had to read dry and tedious scientific papers, but I approached them like a detective, creating mysteries and crimes from them, since my protagonist is a detective mongoose who exposes crimes against nature.”

Chakravarty also went on field visits to collect firsthand references for illustrating posters and maps for Green Humour.

The young cartoonist stressed his approach changes depending on the story. Drawing inspiration from comic legends like Bill Watterson (Calvin and Hobbes) to conservation comic artists like Seppo Leinonen and Rosemary Moco, Chakravarty is always open to experimenting. When asked about his favourite strips from the book, he said: “I am usually very self-critical, but there are a few that always make me chuckle every time. I’ve done an entire series on Arctic Terns, the longest-distance migratory bird in the world, i.e., all the way from the Arctic Circle to Antarctica and back. So, in this particular comic, the bird is giving sustainable travel tips to this generation of Instagram travellers; something I always find relevant.”

Barley holds deep cultural significance in the high altitudes of Himachal Pradesh, particularly in Spiti. This ancient crop is linked to the Namkhan festival, and it is harvested only after the festival, showing how much it matters.

In the past, three types of barley, locally known as jau, were cultivated in Spiti. “The crop was consumed and also exchanged for other essential items. Now, only one variety is grown, mostly eaten as sattu after roasting. It is naturally grown during the summer,” said Tenzin Thinley, a farmer from Kibber village.

According to Thinley, people in Spiti still trade barley for rice from Kullu and Manali. They also buy aluminium storage boxes, or sanduk, for preserving it, underscoring its importance.

Fading barley

However, barley cultivation has declined since the introduction of green peas as a cash crop in the 1980s. "Today, only about two to three quintals of barley get sold, fetching around Rs 42 per kilogram locally," said Thinley. Peas have brought higher profits, pushing barley aside.

Though peas are commercially viable and planted around the same time as barley, they come with drawbacks. "Climate change is the biggest threat. Pea crops are often ruined by excessive rain and hail in June and July when they're nearly ready for harvest. Barley, on the other hand, can endure such climate shocks. But most farmers now grow peas for financial reasons," Thinley said.

Thinley believes small-scale farmers who only grow peas are more vulnerable to unexpected climate changes. Additionally, as barley farming declines, the younger generation may gradually forget its importance in Spiti.

Crop switch

Barley is mainly grown for consumption, but its market value is almost zero. In Spiti, many farmers saw their fortunes improve about four decades ago when they started growing peas. According to Thinley, barley barely sells despite his efforts to find a market. He owns 49 bighas of land, where he practises crop rotation. If he cultivates about 10 bighas one year, he leaves that much land fallow the next year due to water shortages.

“Last year, peas sold for Rs 95 per kg, but this year it was Rs 75 per kg. If farmers find a viable market for barley, many will reduce pea cultivation since it requires more water.”

Peas and barley are sown together around March-April. The crops are harvested in mid-September to October, although this year the harvest came early, leading to lower prices for peas.

Climate change is the biggest threat. Pea crops are often ruined by excessive rain and hail in June and July when they're nearly ready for harvest. Barley, on the other hand, can endure such climate shocks.

Over the past few years, Thinley has noticed that the harvest has moved up to August. “Overall, this is due to a changing climatic trend in Spiti”

The early harvest is a major issue. Farmers miss out on the higher prices available in September and October. Since the crop is ready in August in lower elevations, overproduction drives prices down, Thinley said.

Pea farming typically brings in a profit of Rs three to four lakh annually for many, with most of the produce sent to Delhi. Thinley is worried that, at some point, farmers might suffer big losses from growing peas, and barley could completely disappear from the area.

Impact of tourism

In Spiti, where people rely on livestock and pea farming for their livelihoods, tourism has also brought changes. Thinley said many tourists now visit Spiti in winter to see snow leopards. “In winter, it’s like a fair here, full of outsiders. Even Western-style toilets have been installed for tourists, but they don’t work in the cold.” If pea crops fail in any given year, horses and yaks are sold for income.

Another farmer from Kibber village, Dorje Chhering, grows both peas and barley. He began cultivating peas in 1988. Chhering owns 30 bighas of land, planting peas on 10 bighas and barley on another 10. The rest remains fallow.

According to Chhering, pea crops require more water, a resource always scarce in the region. Farmers build kuls, or water channels, to bring glacial water to their fields. He sources water from eight km away. Plus, Kuls, traditional water harvesting systems in Spiti, need proper management and maintenance.

“There is a severe water shortage here. I’m not getting a good market for barley, but I’ve heard there’s demand. If I find a viable market, I’ll stop growing peas. Peas are always risky. The seeds aren't local, which is the biggest problem. In summer, when peas are sown, water can be scarce. When they’re ready, excess rain or hail storms can ruin the crop,” Chhering said. He added that barley is a hardy crop, resistant to climatic shocks, and beer made from barley tastes good.

There is a severe water shortage here. I’m not getting a good market for barley, but I’ve heard there’s demand. If I find a viable market, I’ll stop growing peas.

Takpa Tenzin, a resident of Chicham, a village five km from Kibber, said, “Farmers in Spiti buy pea seeds at subsidised rates, but most of the time they’re poor quality. Middlemen often cheat us by providing inferior seeds. Last year, I bought four kg of pea seeds for Rs 4,200. Still, one kg of peas sells for Rs 60-70 in the market.”

Like others in the region, he’s aware of the risks posed by peas. Farmers lack storage facilities, and with markets far away, they rely on middlemen to sell their crops. These middlemen come from various districts in Himachal Pradesh after the harvest.

Alternative income

Besides the commercially viable green pea, Takpa Tenzin also grows black peas, or kala matar in Hindi. This local Spiti variety lacks a market as well. Though it looks green in the field, the peas are slightly blackish. When snow, rain, or road blockages occur, farmers struggle to store green peas for long periods. But black peas, dried in the fields, can be stored for up to a year. They’re small and must be beaten with sticks to remove the pods.

“I’m trying to find a market for black peas. Once, I sent about two quintals to Gujarat through a friend,” he said. But there’s been no promotion for the crop. Thinley added that black peas are exchanged for rajma from Kinnaur, where people appreciate their nutritional value and taste.

Though Spiti is part of the trans-Himalayan region, water shortages are still constant. “The pea crop needs water 10-12 times from sowing to harvest. In high mountains, farmers rely on springs. But the constant pressure from tourism also affects the region’s water sources. Farmers use PVC pipes to bring water to their fields, but the springs, their water source, are gradually drying up.”

Takpa Tenzin, who also runs a homestay, said things have changed. Most people in Spiti now run homestays. Namkeen chai, once popular in the region, has been replaced by regular sweet tea.

Meanwhile, farmers in Kibber gram panchayat have vowed to avoid using chemicals. “Chemical use reduces the bird count. If farmers stop using chemicals, birds return in large numbers.”

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Hardy crop

Ajay Bijoor, who works with the Nature Conservation Foundation’s high-altitude programme, said the green pea crop was introduced to Spiti from Lahaul. Lahaul farmers have grown cash crops, including potatoes, since the 1960s.

“Barley needs less water than green peas, but cash crops like cauliflower and lettuce require even more. The first watering of crops is now delayed due to reduced snowfall and receding glaciers, which disrupts the crop cycle.”

Barley is one of the oldest crops known to humans. Bijoor explained that Spiti was likely inhabited because barley was cultivated here since ancient times. This long history has given the crop its resilience to climate change.

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In recent decades, a few large agribusiness companies have increasingly influenced the global food and farming system. Some of these companies control seeds and agrochemicals, while others dominate trade and marketing or own vast amounts of farmland. Their growing influence on farm policy has sparked controversy, particularly regarding the spread of genetically modified (GM) crops and the agrochemicals associated with them.

However, there is mounting evidence that the farming practices promoted by these companies have caused significant ecological damage and are not sustainable. Senior agronomist Rene Dumont says, “Much of the extraordinary increase in (farm) production recorded between 1950 and 1984 was achieved by depleting farm resources.” Similarly, Lester Brown and Edward Wolf points out, “Often the very practices that cause excessive erosion in the long run, such as the intensification of cropping patterns and the ploughing of marginal land, lead to short-term production gains, creating an illusion of progress and a false sense of security. Indeed, the US crop surpluses of the early eighties, which are sometimes cited as the sign of a healthy agriculture, are partly the product of mining soils.”

Unsustainable practices

The green revolution has mostly promoted the use of intensive monocultures, but this practice can hurt the long-term fertility of the land. The World Resources Report (WRR) notes, “Soils under intensive monoculture tend to lose organic matter and their ability to retain moisture, thus becoming more susceptible to erosion and ultimately losing their fertility and productivity.”

Intensive monoculture usually requires a greater use of chemical pesticides. However, only a tiny fraction of the pesticides applied–less than 0.1 percent in some cases—actually targets the intended pests. The rest ends up polluting the land and water, harming birds and other wildlife. As WRR notes, “wholesale elimination of helpful soil-dwelling insects and microorganisms that build soil and plant nutrition sometimes occurs, essentially sterilising the soil.”

It's well-known that using too many chemical fertilisers can reduce the flavour of food, but what's less recognised is that it can also lower its nutritional value and lead to serious health issues. According to nutrition expert C Gopalan, “the use of high analysis chemical fertilisers, which is part of the modern intensive agricultural technology, had not always gone hand-in-hand with appropriate measures for soil testing and soil replenishment, with the result that, as shown by the studies of FAO, there are disturbing evidences of micronutrient depletion of soils in some areas; these are likely to be eventually reflected in impaired nutritive value of food-grains grown in such soils.”

Richard Douthwaite in his recent book The Growth Illusion writes, “Nitrogenous fertilisers can raise the amount of nitrate in the final crop to four or five times the level found in the compost-growing equivalent, while at the same time cutting vitamin C and dry matter levels. This change is potentially serious, since nitrates can be turned into powerful carcinogenic nitrosamines by bacteria found in the mouth, while vitamin C has been shown to protect against cancers.”

Climate crisis

The dangers of overusing chemical fertilisers have become even greater in the era of climate change. The International Panel for Climate Change estimates that for every 100 kg of nitrogen fertiliser applied to the soil, one kg ends up in the atmosphere as nitrous oxide, a greenhouse gas 300 times more potent than carbon dioxide and the world’s most significant ozone-depleting substance.

Wendell Berry, the well-known writer and farmer-philosopher from the USA, has argued that, beyond damaging the soil and environment, many modern farming practices promoted by big business and governments are forcing small farms out of business, disrupting rural communities and their culture.

In his famous book ‘The Unsettling of America: Culture and Agriculture’ he writes, “A healthy farm culture can be based only upon familiarity and can grow only among a people soundly established upon the land; it nourishes and safeguards a human intelligence of the earth that no amount of technology can satisfactorily replace. The growth of such a culture was once a strong possibility in the farm communities of this country (USA). We now have only the sad remnants of those communities. If we allow another generation to pass without doing what is necessary to enhance and embolden the possibility now perishing with them, we will lose it altogether.”  

The disconnect

The social and ecological harms are connected, as large companies can't care for the soil and crops in the same way that small farmers and farming communities can. The machines now doing most of the work on farms in wealthier countries can increase food production, but they can't protect the soil for future generations. As more skilled farmers leave agriculture, it's becoming less likely that there will be enough people to not only produce food but also care for the land and soil. Farm animals are increasingly treated like mere commodities, with little attention to their well-being. 

On the consumption side, poverty and inequality prevent many people from getting enough food, but even those who can afford it struggle to find wholesome, nutritious options. The market is dominated by food that’s heavily treated with chemicals or processed in ways that strip away valuable nutrients and add harmful substances.

The London Food Commission reported that at least 92 pesticides were cleared for use in Britain, despite being linked to cancer, birth defects, or genetic mutations in animal studies. In poorer countries, health risks can be even higher, as pesticides and other harmful agrochemicals banned in wealthier nations are often sold cheaply, posing dangers to both consumers and farmers who are in close contact with these harmful chemicals.

Illusion of safety

Regarding food additives, the London Food Commission noted that around 3,800 additives are used to perform about 100 different functions. The Commission stated, “A single meal may contain a cocktail of 12 to 16 additives. The combinations of additives may react with each other and with foods to produce new chemical substances.”

Much of the confusion comes from treating agriculture like an industry—or even mining—focused solely on maximising short-term production and profit. Wendell Berry has effectively pointed out the flaws in this widespread approach.

“The farmer differs from the industrialist in that the farmer is necessarily a nurturer, a preserver of the health of creatures.” He further writes, “The economy of industry is, typically, extractive. It takes, makes, uses, and discards, it progresses, that is from exhaustion to pollution. Agriculture, on the other hand, rightly belongs to a replenishing economy, which takes, makes, uses, and returns - it involves the return to the source, not just of fertility or of so-called wastes, but also of care and affection.”

Explaining why this fundamental understanding of agriculture is often overlooked today, Wendell Berry writes, “The ‘free market’—the unbridled play of economic forces—is bad for agriculture because it is unable to assign a value to things that are necessary to agriculture. It gives a value to agricultural products, but it cannot give a value to the sources of those products in the topsoil, the ecosystem, the farm, the farm family, or the farm community. Indeed, people who look at farming from the standpoint of the ‘free market’ do not understand the relation of product to source. They believe that the relation is merely mechanical because they believe that agriculture is or can be an industry. And the ‘free market’ is helpless to suggest otherwise.”

Roadmap

Government policies that strongly promote ecologically sustainable farming and support rural communities could offer new hope. In this regard, the Indian government's recent announcement to promote natural farming on a larger scale is a positive step. However, it’s important to recognize that this cannot coexist with conflicting trends like the promotion of GM crops. GM crops pose serious health hazards and environmental risks, and their contamination can easily spread to conventional and naturally or organically grown crops. Most independent scientists oppose GM crops. India’s leading expert on the issue, Prof. Pushpa M Bhargava, who founded the Centre for Cellular and Molecular Biology and was appointed by the Supreme Court of India to advise on related issues, summarised the situation: “There are over 500 research publications by scientists of indisputable integrity, who have no conflicts of interest, that establish harmful effects of GM crops on human, animal and plant health and on environment and biodiversity… On the other hand, virtually every paper supporting GM crops is by scientists who have a declared conflict of interest or whose credibility and integrity can be doubted.”

This highlights a key point: the industrial agriculture system cannot protect the most essential need for safe and healthy food. Its main goal is to increase profits and control for large multinational agro-businesses, which rely on risky technologies and inputs like agro-chemicals, whose health dangers are well-known, and GM crops, which come with serious hazards. Despite all the promotion of industrial farming, the safety of food and the sustainability of small farming households are best supported by natural farming systems based in small farmer and family farm communities.

Vast stretches of green and golden paddy spikes sway in the cool breeze, creating a musical rhythm as you glide through the brackish waters of the naturally organic Kaipad (kayal padam) fields, fringed by mangroves. The fields are the lifeblood of coastal villages in Kannur, Kasargod, and Kozhikode, especially in Ezhome panchayat, Kannur, the hub of Malabar Kaipad cultivation.

Here, Dr Vanaja T, associate director of research at Kerala Agriculture University and head of the Regional Agriculture Research Station (RARS) in Pilicode, Kasargod has been working passionately to breed better varieties of paddy for farmers.

“I have hybridised traditional and international varieties in a more saline region than before, creating a high-yielding, saline- and flood-resistant variety with better nutritional value,” she said. Dr Vanaja’s dedication, combined with the farmers' needs, led to the development of five organic, saline-resistant hybrid varieties: Ezhome 1, 2, 3, 4, Jaiva (for non-saline fields), and Mithila, all the result of experiments started in 2000.

Indigenous methods

The rich biodiversity of the land is palpable. The unique calm is as soothing to the mind as the nutritious Kaipad rice is to the body, a connection evident in the villagers' health. “We eat only Kaipad rice in various forms, accompanied by organic vegetables, tubers, fruit, or fish from our farms. We grow paddy during the monsoon in saline-free water, from June to November, and fish after the harvest, from mid-November to April,” said agriculturist C Govindan Nambiar.

“We have always followed this unique indigenous farming method. The saline-resistant rice varieties are nurtured and nourished by the tidal flow. Before the monsoon sets in, we make mounds. After the rains remove the salinity, we sow the seeds in each mound. When it's time to replant, the men scatter the mounds in a specific way, and the women place the saplings in the right positions. We sow and reap in neck- or knee-deep water and marshy soil–a very laborious task. The beds are visible during low tide,” he said.

“We do not use fertilisers or pesticides. After the harvest, it’s time for fish. The sluice gates are closed, and the fish, shrimp, and crab seedlings that flow in from the sea feed on the paddy stubs and other organic matter. After harvesting the fish, they are often exported. The stubble waste, fish, and bird droppings, including those of migratory birds, fertilise the soil,” Nambiar explained.

“We did face issues, but thanks to Vanaja madam, most have been resolved,” he added.

Reviving Kaipad rice

Vanaja has been instrumental in reviving Kaipad rice cultivation and supporting small and marginal farmers through her research and initiatives. “When I started my career as an agriculture officer, I was appointed to the Pepper Research Institute, despite specialising in rice. On State Farmers' Day, the first day of the Malayalam month of Chingam in 2000, I was asked to give a talk to the farmers of Ezhome Panchayat as part of the celebrations. I spoke about various aspects of rice farming when Govindan Nambiar, representing the farmers, interrupted, saying my talk had nothing to offer them.”

Vanaja paused and asked about their concerns. The farmers struggled with low yields from the indigenous Kuthiru and Orkkayama varieties, lodging (where stalks fall to the ground), and the nuisance of awns during harvest.

We should salute the hands that secure food just as we salute the hands that defend the country.

Though she was at the Pepper Institute, she promised the farmers that she would support them, even if it meant conducting the research herself. When she presented the DPR, the university approved it because it was a demand from the farmers that no one had addressed.

New varieties

Vanaja began her experiment at home, hybridising traditional varieties in 200 pots. After much effort, she successfully developed a set of seeds. She leased Kaipad land from a farmer, turning the area into her lab. Vanaja involved the farmers to understand their needs and combine their knowledge with science. After many trials and evaluations based on various criteria, she developed Ezhome 1 and 2 in 2010, naming them after the village. That same year, the Malabar Kaipad Farmers' Society (MKFS) was established, focusing on the conservation, cultivation, consumption, and commercialisation of Kaipad rice. Ezhome 3 was developed in 2014, followed by Ezhome 4 in 2015.

The new varieties offer 60 to 80 percent higher yields than the traditional ones. They are lodging- and awn-free, tastier, and more nutritious.

During the harvest festival inauguration for Ezhome 3, the then agriculture minister was taken by canoe to cut the stalks. However, the canoe overturned, drenching the minister. Along with the local MLA, the minister waded knee-deep through the field to cut the sheaves, gaining firsthand experience of the farmers' struggles.

“The new varieties offer 60 to 80 percent higher yields than the traditional ones. They are lodging- and awn-free, tastier, and more nutritious,” said Vanaja. After years of effort, Kaipad rice received the Geographical Indication (GI) tag in 2014.

“Ezhome 4 is high yielding and flood-resistant, and farmers want to grow more,” said Ezhome panchayat president P Govindan. “But labour shortages, high production costs, lack of mechanisation, and low prices prevent expansion. We need to attract younger generations by boosting the food security army, offering monthly salaries, and introducing mechanisation.”

Challenges and opportunities

In 2019, the governmental agency Kaipad Area Development Society (KADS) was established, with Dr Vanaja as its director. It is the only agency of its kind in north Kerala. According to farmers, the northern districts are a neglected area. In 2020, the Malabar Kaipad Farmer Producer Company (MKFPO) was registered.

To support the farmers and encourage self-entrepreneurship, a Food Security Army (FSA) was formed on a profit-sharing basis. “We should salute the hands that secure food just as we salute the hands that defend the country,” said Vanaja.

The consumption of Kaipad rice has been significantly promoted through awareness initiatives in 52 self-governing bodies across three districts. Kaipad products have been introduced in markets throughout Kerala. The importance of healthy eating is conveyed through a food park set up near the Thavam rail overbridge in Cherukunnu panchayat. Slogans highlighting the need for and benefits of nutritious, organic food adorn the walls. The area houses a production unit and an outlet where Kaipad rice, rice flakes, ‘puttu’, ‘pathiri’, idiyappam, prawn chutney powders, sweetened rice balls, and health mixes for all ages, as well as ‘payasam’, are sold. Most products are also available online.

In the food park, rice gruel made from Kaipad rice is served in earthen pots, accompanied by legumes, ember-roasted ‘papad’, pickles, vegetables, and tonic chutney made from Indian pennywort (muthil), water hyssop (brahmi), or other medicinal herbs. It costs Rs 50. Fish and eggs are also served at an additional charge. “We take turns cooking, making value-added products, packing, and selling in our outlets, catering to tourists who generally book in advance. The gruel at the park is a hit, and our products are in demand,” said Soumya of FSA.

Farm tourism is also being promoted, offering visitors the opportunity to participate in the cultivation process, enjoy canoe rides, relish healthy food, and bask in the beauty of nature.

Kaipad rice and its value-added products were first exported to the UAE in 2019 and are now reaching other countries. The demand exceeds supply. “Today, people have begun to approach us for rice and value-added products, but we don’t have enough paddy to fulfill large orders. Last year, we harvested only 9 tonnes, compared to 15,000 tonnes the year before,” said MKFPC secretary Nidhina Das.

MKFS secretary M K Sukumaran supports her claims. “We have new seed varieties, but cultivation has decreased by 50 percent compared to a few years ago because it has become risky. When farmers are unable to cultivate for a year, mangroves intrude, and it’s illegal to clear them. Moreover, climate change, saline intrusion, and threats from pigs, tortoises, and birds present significant hurdles. We can increase cultivation if the government helps us address these issues and raises our subsidy. The government’s promises have yet to reach us,” he said.

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“Steps are being taken to address the challenges facing Kaipad and make cultivation profitable to attract more farmers and youth. The government has begun marketing organic rice varieties and value-added products from across the state online under the brand ‘Kerala Agro’ through the Krishi Bhavan to secure better returns for farmers,” said agriculture minister P Prasad.

In 2020, MKFS received the Plant Genome Saviour Community Award from Indian president Droupadi Murmu during the Global Symposium for Farmers’ Rights in September 2023, in New Delhi. The Kaipad stall was one of the few visited by the president.

Meanwhile, Vanaja is focusing on the Research and Development Centre being set up on a hillock where viewers can see the Kaipad fields. The lower floor will house the food park and outlets, while the upper floor will contain the lab and other facilities. “I had to depend on toilets in farmers' houses. Better infrastructure will help attract more researchers and contribute more to Kaipad development,” she said.

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