The humble pumpkin, now India's national vegetable, has quietly awaited its moment in the sun. In Chhattisgarh, it's revered as the eldest son, and cutting one can be seen as akin to sacrificing a child. Here, tradition dictates that a male family member first cuts the pumpkin in half before passing it to the women for further preparation. In North India, particularly West Bengal and northeastern states, pumpkins have replaced animal sacrifices in religious ceremonies, much to animal lovers' delight.

In South India, a white pumpkin is hung outside homes to absorb evil and negative energies. Evil energies are believed to remain in the house if the pumpkin rots in less than a year. If it lasts a year, then it means the negativity has cleared. 

‍

Many-splendoured thing

Recently,  a Goan neighbour saw the pumpkin vines overflowing from my terrace and remarked on how the beautiful yellow flowers taste so good when batter-fried. The next day, a domestic help saw the same vines cascading to the floors below and commented on how they often cook the young leaves into a stew in her village, Sirsi, in Karnataka. A couple of days later, Jaywant Chowgule, a farmer who runs a farm and experiments with growing various plants, offered me some pumpkin mousse when I visited his farm in Goa. These encounters sparked a rediscovery of the pumpkin's abundance - every part edible, from fruit to seeds, flowers to leaves, and even tender stems.

In Bihar, pumpkin leaves and stems are batter-fried to make pakodas (fritters). Further south in Goa, pumpkin leaves are made into 'Dudyachya Paanachi Bhaji', which translates to a “dish made with pumpkin leaves''. Across India, pumpkins have found their place in many regional cuisines.

Bengalis love the entire plant. Flowers are batter-fried to make ‘PhoolerBoro’, leaves into a chutney named ‘Kumro Patar Vorta’ and young stalks are used in curries. Owing to its growing popularity, Chef Dibyendu Roy of Taj Fort Aguada, Goa, has arranged for his team to grow pumpkins in the hotel’s rather large kitchen garden area. A popular vegetable in West Bengal, the pumpkin leaves and stems are thrown into a pan to create a Chachari - a mish-mash of several vegetables.

Odiyas, too, have discovered the versatility and taste of pumpkins. They relish the plant in its entirety - they use the pumpkin, called Kakharu in Odiya, and its stem, called Danka, in a dish similar to Chachari, called the ‘Kakharu Danka Batibasa Chadchadi’.

 “All the ingredients are mixed up in a bowl known as Bati and cooked on extremely low heat. This Batibasa technique is still practised in many rural households who cook their food on Chullahs,” said Odiya chef Rachit Keertiman. The women would slow-cook the dish on the dying embers of the challah. “This is a very healthy form of cooking a dish,” he added. Slow cooking on low heat retains the nutrients in the food.

Pumpkin vines are a common sight in Odisha's kitchen gardens. Its fruit is the primary ingredient in ‘Dalma’, a dish associated with frugality in the past. The flower adds texture to dishes, while the leaves are perfect for chutneys. “We teach hotel management students nose-to-tail menus or, in the case of pumpkin - fruit to root, where we use absolutely every part of the plant,” said Keertiman.

With its versatility, an entire menu - from starters to desserts - can be curated with pumpkin plants. The flowers have an earthy flavour, while the stems and leaves are nutritious. The fleshy fruit can be made sweet or savoury. 

In West Bengal, pumpkin seeds are combined with jaggery and sesame to make a delectable evening snack, said Chef Dibyendu Roy. World over, roasted pumpkin seeds are great as a snack and make a healthy addition to smoothies and cereal mixes. And, of course, in the US, around Halloween, pumpkins are the flavour of the season and make their way into all possible foods and beverages - the famous ‘pumpkin spice latte’ is only one of them. 

Medicinal benefits

Pumpkins boasts medicinal properties, potentially protecting against peptic ulcers and offering a wealth of vitamins (A, B, C, and E).Research suggests that pumpkin seeds and pulp may even benefit the liver and promote healthy cholesterol levels in rats.This diverse nutritional profile has captured the attention of scientists, with traditional medicine systems also recognising its potential.

Global research dubs the pumpkin a crop likely to mitigate food challenges in the future. “Although undervalued, pumpkin is a valuable vegetable herbaceous plant that contributes to global food and nutritional security,” according to  MDPI. A hardy crop, pumpkin is relatively easy to grow even in water-scarce regions and does not require a lot of pesticides and external intervention. 

Kashiphal, the Indian name for Pumpkin, is a multifunctional crop for both humans and animals and could be a potential solution for food and livelihood. From rural kitchens to five-star hotels, this adaptable vegetable is reshaping India's culinary landscape while offering solutions to agricultural challenges.

The first Indian colour film, released in 1938, was Kisan Kanya (Farmer's Daughter). Today, despite nearly 85% of rural Indian women working in agriculture, their contributions are often overlooked. The image of the Indian farmer—a man in a dhoti kurta, standing defiantly against a barren landscape—has become an icon of agrarian struggle. But this portrait is incomplete.

P Sainath, a veteran journalist who has chronicled rural India for decades, captures this disparity in his documentary, Nero's Guest. In its opening scenes, Sainath examines photographs of farmers who have taken their own lives. He pauses on the image of Sudha Mani, a woman cradling a child. Sudha's mother had died by suicide. Yet Sudha was deemed ineligible for compensation. In the eyes of society and law, her mother was not a farmer but just a farmer's wife.

"I wish I had a memory of my mother when she was not working," Sudha said. "When I slept, she was working; when I woke up, she was working." This relentless toil is the reality for millions of women across India's agricultural heartland.

According to Annual Periodic Labour Force Survey, 2021-2022, agriculture has the highest estimated female labour force participation at 62.9%. Yet, these women are rarely recognised as farmers in their own right, instead labelled as mere labourers on land they often help cultivate.

Men, money and migration

The Economic Survey of 2017-18 emphasised the need for an 'inclusive transformative agricultural policy' with targeted gender-specific interventions and proposed strategies to boost productivity on small farms, integrate women into rural development and involve both genders in extension services. The survey mentioned allocating at least 30% of budgets across ongoing schemes and development activities to women beneficiaries. The government also pledged to support women through self-help groups (SHGs), facilitating micro-credit access and ensuring representation in decision-making bodies.

Despite these recommendations, a significant gender gap persists in agricultural support programs. Take, for example, the Pradhan Mantri Kisan Samman Nidhi scheme, which provides Indian farmers 6,000 annually as minimum income support. In June, PM Narendra Modi released the “17th instalment amounting to nearly 20,000 crore that will benefit around 9.3 crore farmers.” The delayed funds, released as a bonanza, drew criticism from the opposition. In November 2023, the overall figure of the scheme’s beneficiaries stood at 8.12 crore, of which 6.27 crore or 77.33 percent were men and only 1.83 crore or 22.64 percent, highlighting a stark gender disparity.

The feminisation of Indian agriculture is, paradoxically, a byproduct of its challenges. As climate change renders farming increasingly unpredictable and chemical fertilisers drive up costs, men are migrating to cities in search of more stable incomes. Women, left behind, shoulder the double burden of agricultural labour and domestic responsibilities.

Mounting challenges 

Indian women have limited access to resources crucial for agricultural stability, such as land, water, credit, technology, and training. To make ends meet, these workers often overexert themselves, leading to various problems.

In Beed, Maharashtra, economic distress has led to a disturbing trend. More women in their twenties are undergoing hysterectomies due to exploitative sugarcane work. Lack of education and the perception that menstruation hinders work drive this dangerous practice.

Further north, as temperatures soar to record highs, women from impoverished backgrounds endure the brunt of heat exposure in agricultural labour, facing severe health hazards. Rural areas often lack access to amenities such as air conditioning and health resources, leaving these women particularly vulnerable to rising temperatures.

Perhaps the most fundamental barrier facing women farmers is land ownership. In India, despite 85% of rural women engaging in agriculture, only about 13% have land ownership. Challenging male dominance in agriculture is extremely difficult since women who provide labour aren't recognised as farmers, a status tied to land ownership that most rural Indian women lack.

Kavitha Kuruganti, speaking for the Mahila Kisan Adhikaar Manch (MAKAAM), identifies this lack of land ownership as the key factor rendering female farmers invisible. Without land titles, these women remain unrecognised as farmers, perpetuating their marginalisation and leaving them vulnerable to exploitation.

Path forward

As India grapples with the challenges of feeding a growing population in an era of climate uncertainty, it can no longer afford to overlook half of its agricultural workforce. Recognizing and empowering women farmers is not just a matter of equality—it's a necessity for the nation's food security and economic stability.

The path forward requires a multipronged approach:

1. Legal reforms to recognise women as farmers in their own right
2. Targeted financial and educational support
3. A cultural shift in how society views women's roles in agriculture

Only then can India truly claim to be cultivating a future where every farmer, regardless of gender, can reap what they sow.

In the end, the story of India's women farmers is one of resilience in the face of systemic neglect. It's time for their silent revolution to be heard, for their invisible labour to be seen, and for their rightful place in India's agricultural narrative to be acknowledged.
‍

As I watched the jasmine flowers in full bloom in my mother-in-law’s garden in Pune, the sweet smell wafted into my senses subtly with the pre-monsoon breeze, and I couldn’t help but think of the calming effect this was having on me. 

Jasmine flowers are beloved across India, especially in South India, where they are a staple hair accessory for women. Known as Mallipoo in Tamil, Mallige in Kannada, and Malle Puvvu in Telugu, jasmine holds a special place in wedding and festival decorations, is considered sacred and offered to gods, and is used to produce essential oil, much of which is exported from India. Jasmine plants are easy to grow in pots and thrive in sunlight, making them a common sight in gardens worldwide.

Jasmine's appeal goes beyond decoration and perfume; these fragrant blooms are now appearing on our plates. Every part of the jasmine plant is edible and features in recipes across the globe.

Refreshing traditions

During the last monsoon, I was introduced to a mogra sharbat at a friend’s house, made from steeping mogra flowers in sugar syrup. “My mother disliked Coca-Cola and other aerated drinks so much that when we were kids she made it a point to give us only fresh sharbats which she prepared at home. She made mogra, badam, and rose sharbat amongst others,” says Aruna Katara from Pune. “What started off as a way for my mother to share her love for cooking with our family, has turned into a tradition that my sister-in-law Ritu Chhabria, is keeping alive even today, years after my mother’s passing.” 

Every year, the family sends out hundreds of bottles of mogra sharbat to friends and family.

‍Mixology

Journalist Vikram Doctor says, “Gin, lime, jasmine syrup and soda make for a great cocktail. There’s an excellent book Madurai Malligai, by Dr Uma Kannan, about the cultivation and use of jasmine in Tamil Nadu, and that gives a good recipe for jasmine syrup.” 

Buland Shukla, the founder of For the Record bar in Goa steam distils Jasmine and Plumeria for a cocktail named ‘Hydroball’. He prefers steam distilling to boiling as the latter brings out hints of off flavours. “There's still some amount of reflux that happens, even if it is steam and not hydro distillation. But by taking conservative cuts, we can get a really good quality distillate that is both sweet and earthy.” 

It is said that scented jasmines, picked early in the day, make the best syrup. 

‍Global influence

One of the most common uses for jasmine flowers is in tea. Jasmine tea is made by boiling fresh or dried flowers in water for a minute and then letting it steep for five minutes. Many chefs use jasmine decoction and flowers in drinks, mostly cocktails, while some use the flowers as a garnish. Being edible, they are often pressed into cookies or cakes. Just a few flowers can make an entire dish fragrant; for instance, six jasmine flowers can aromatize a whole pot of rice. Renowned chef Sanjeev Kapoor shares a  recipe for very fragrant jasmine rice, and there are popular versions of fried rice using fresh flowers in the East.

Jasmine tea can subtly enhance various foods during cooking. While jasmine has a sweet aroma, it also has a slightly bitter taste. In China, jasmine flower buds are used in dishes like fried eggs. Mogra flowers are loved for their strong aroma in everything from vodka infusions to salad dressings. Nazish Arif, a food technologist from Karachi, Pakistan is so partial to jasmine flowers that she has dedicated an entire blog to Chameli, the local name for the flowers. 

In her book Royal Cuisines of India, travel writer Dharmendar Kanwar features an old recipe that uses a kilo of jasmine stalks. Given that various parts of this plant are edible, I’m sure it finds use in various regional recipes. One that I did come across was the Mogra Panache Virshe, a soup made using the leaves of the jasmine plant. 

Blooming desserts‍

Given their sweet smell and taste, I would think the flowers themselves are only used in sweeter foods. They are used in a variety of global desserts - from British shortbread cookies to French palmiers. Popular Mumbai restaurant, The Table, incorporates Mogra flowers into a dessert. Their chef Will Aghajanian says, “A flower vendor on the streets of Colaba trying to sell a mogra gajra (a jasmine hand bracelet or hair accessory) was the inspiration behind incorporating the fragrant mogra flower in The Table's dessert menu. We make a jasmine and jaggery syrup to season the cream with, as well as infuse the cream with more jasmine flowers overnight.” The Gavti Lab, a Goa-based gelato brand, has a jasmine and coconut crumble. Although I’m yet to try it, I hear it’s a hot favourite.

My mother disliked Coca-Cola and other aerated drinks so much that when we were kids, she made it a point to give us only fresh sharbats which she prepared at home. She made mogra, badam, and rose sharbat amongst others.

There’s definitely a renewed interest in cooking with flowers in recent times and as chefs and food scientists experiment more with offbeat ingredients, I’m sure mogra’s unique flavour and aroma will be used to elevate a larger variety of dishes. 

In India, food security programs have long been mired in controversy, with frequent criticism over both the quality and quantity of food provided. These schemes, designed to combat malnutrition, often fail not due to a lack of resources but because of inefficient supply chains and a lack of focus on nutritional standards.

Recently, the Madras High Court directed the central government to address concerns about potential health impacts linked to fortified rice. Made under FSSAI standards, fortified rice involves blending rice with three crucial micronutrients: Iron, folic acid, and vitamin B12. This rice reaches millions of Indians through food security schemes, including the widely praised Mid-Day Meal (MDM) program, a free school feeding initiative supported by educators and economists.

The Union Ministry of Consumer Affairs, Food, and Public Distribution stood accused of neglecting essential operational guidelines for evaluating the distribution and use of fortified rice among its intended recipients, including through the MDM program and other schemes.

The Union Ministry of Consumer Affairs, Food, and Public Distribution has faced accusations of neglecting crucial guidelines for distributing and evaluating fortified rice. Critics argue that the rice lacks necessary warning labels to caution individuals with certain health conditions. The Indian Council of Medical Research has highlighted the absence of thorough medical evaluations since the pilot program's rollout, raising questions about potential health risks. Moreover, NITI Aayog, the government’s policy think tank, recommended a baseline study before introducing fortified rice, a step seemingly overlooked.

{{marquee}}

Promising start

In 2020, during the announcement to introduce fortified rice under the MDM, then Food Secretary Sudhanshu Pandey emphasized that India runs the world's largest food program under the National Food Security Act (NFSA), which legally entitles 810 million beneficiaries.

During his 75th Independence Day speech in 2021, Prime Minister Narendra Modi announced the government's commitment to distributing fortified rice through central schemes by 2024 to combat malnutrition among underprivileged communities. The initial phase, which started in October 2021, saw fortified rice being provided through the Integrated Child Development Services (ICDS) and the Pradhan Mantri Poshan Shakti Nirman (formerly Mid-Day Meal Scheme). The second phase began on April 1, 2022, targeting 291 specific districts, with the third phase launching in April 2023.

Challenges emerge

But in 2023, a report surfaced unfolding the reality about the quality of rice being served to children. School Development and Monitoring Committees, students, and teachers reported improperly cooked rice, yet no inquiry was conducted into the staple's quality. Current allegations that the grain was not thoroughly evaluated before reaching plates add to the concerns.

Sanjeev Chopra, the current secretary in the Department of Food and Public Distribution, assured that the Center is “on track to achieve 100 percent distribution of fortified rice across all rice consuming districts in the country.”  Once fortified rice is fully distributed across all districts by the end of this fiscal year, the program's annual cost will go up to Rs 2,680 crore. But the situation of India’s food distribution system continues to be grim despite money being funnelled into the meal programmes by the government.

Call for accountability 

The Mid-Day Meal program was introduced to ensure at least one nutritious meal for government school students and to boost attendance. The logic is simple: well-fed children can concentrate better and are more likely to attend school, especially those from impoverished families. However, some regions struggle to meet even this secondary goal, as the number of students relying on the program decreases.

A decade ago, the Comptroller and Auditor General (CAG) had concluded that the Mid-Day Meal scheme had been ineffective. But with thousands of crore rupees being channelled each year, wiser decisions should be made as the government becomes liable if it fails to meet the required quality mid-day meal as legally mandated by the National Food Security Act, 2013.

On 31 January, five members of the All Goa Small Scale Responsible Fisheries Union (AGSSRFU) set out to document illegal fishing activities in the Zuari River.

Using GPS cameras and powerful lights, they recorded trawlers fishing illegally near Dona Paula Jetty, just four kilometres from the coast. 

“We submitted this evidence to the department and the police to prove that illegal fishing was taking place. The recordings were made using GPS cameras, so the longitude and all GPS data were embedded within the videos,” said Sebastiao Rodrigues, AGSSRFU’s advisor.

Despite being prohibited within a five-kilometer radius from the shore as per the Goa, Daman, and Diu Marine Fishing Regulation Act, 1980, ecologically harmful fishing equipment such as trawl nets and purse-seine nets continue to be used in the Zuari River. 

The lack of proper enforcement has even emboldened trawlers to attack small-scale fishers.

“Although trawling has now ceased in the Zuari River due to our efforts, we still receive unconfirmed reports of a few trawlers and purse seiners engaging in such [illegal fishing] activities around 3:00 a.m. in the river,” he noted.

The union has consistently fought against illegal trawling and numerous others. There are junctures in time where it would stop—issues, including tourism encroaching on the fishers' livelihoods. Yet, given the state's lack of interest in maintaining ecological balance and curbing illegal activities, small-scale fish workers increasingly feel like they're fighting an uphill battle.

Policy dissonance

India is one of the top global producers of marine capture fisheries. Since independence, its marine capture fisheries have evolved from small-scale operations to highly mechanised ones. In 2022, marine fishing in mainland India generated an estimated revenue of ₹58,247 crore, supporting livelihoods and providing nutritional security for more than 28 million people engaged in the industry.

However, overfishing has become a growing concern in Indian waters in the past two decades due in part to the rise in mechanized fishing vessels, a trend encouraged by the Indian government to boost catch volumes. Additionally, climate change has led to declining fish stocks along India's eastern and western coasts. 

The report by the Bay of Bengal Programme Inter-Governmental Organisation (BOBP-IGO) mentioned that increasing seawater temperature, ocean acidification, sea level rise, changing current pattern, cyclone intensity, ocean oxygen, and nitrate levels, and shifting fish stocks likely pose significant challenges to the marine fisheries sector, having an estimated cost of 1-2% of India's current GDP by 2050.

A 2023 study published in Marine Policy concluded that India’s fisheries policies developed over the last 75 years rarely accounted for the ecological consequences of overfishing. It analysed previous research and revealed that policies have embraced new technology to catch more fish but have been slow to acknowledge scientific evidence of declining fish populations. 

The study revealed that the five states on the western coast had significant policy differences despite sharing similar marine ecology. For instance, in Maharashtra and Kerala, exclusive zones for artisanal fishing are defined by water depth, whereas in Gujarat, Goa, and Karnataka, they are determined by distance from shore. Bull trawling, a highly destructive technique, is banned in Goa and Maharashtra but remains legal in neighbouring Gujarat.

Regarding existing laws, there are no specifications for mesh sizes of trawler nets in Goa. Thus, trawlers can use any mesh size they desire.

Additionally, the minimum mesh sizes for trawlers vary considerably among these West Coast states. National fisheries policies have yet to implement a system to identify, assess, and address these discrepancies. The researchers recommended establishing effective incentives to encourage inter-state collaboration in fisheries management. “Regarding existing laws, there are no specifications for mesh sizes of trawler nets in Goa. Thus, trawlers can use any mesh size they desire,” said Rodrigues.

However, Goa has two legally approved mesh sizes for gillnets: 24 mm and 22 mm. The 22 mm size is general, while the 24 mm size is specifically for prawns and other species. These are the only two approved sizes, and anything smaller is prohibited.

Moreover, fishermen who use fish finders and have computer screens installed in their canoes and trawlers often use purse seine nets. However, purse seines are not supposed to operate within 5 km of the shore. These nets usually have a relatively small mesh size of eight or nine mm. “This situation leads to fish entering the nets, which are either discarded and dumped, including small or dead fish, directly into the river or sold as fertiliser,” he points out.

India's marine fishery has witnessed significant growth. The mechanisation of fishing vessels has led to intense exploitation of commercial marine species along both coasts and has put pressure on fish stocks, causing many species to become less abundant. The study warns that this rapid growth could lead Indian fisheries towards an unsustainable future.

Fishing ban

Every year, the Indian government imposes a 45- to 62-day fishing ban along the East and West coasts to maintain marine life and ensure healthy populations of aquatic species.

The fishing ban coincides with the monsoon season, the prime time for fish to reproduce without disturbance. The Central government enforces fishing bans in Exclusive Economic Zones (EEZ), while state governments are responsible for setting the ban periods in territorial waters.

The primary purpose of the ban is to prevent overfishing and maintain a balance in marine ecosystems. It also helps protect fishermen from the rough seas and unpredictable weather during the monsoon season.

On the East Coast, the ban runs from mid-April to mid-June; on the West Coast, it starts in early June and ends in late July. There is a 10- to 14-day overlap in early June when fishing is prohibited on both coasts simultaneously.

Seasonal fishing bans and minimum mesh size regulations are two standard rules used in fisheries management. However, the aforementioned study published in the journal Marine Policy found that these rules often do not consider important biological information published in scientific studies.

Small-scale fishers have complained that they return empty-handed almost daily for ten days starting June 15, signaling the end of the ban period.

Debasis Shyamal, President of the Dakshinbanga Matsyajibi Forum (DMF) and council member of the National Platform for Small Scale Fish Workers (NPSSFW), which represents small-scale fish workers in the southern part of West Bengal, says that at the national level, NPSSFW demands that trawlers be banned for 120 days and motorized boats for 61 days. The NPSSFW argues that when everyone returns to the sea after the ban period, resources are depleted within 15-20 days, affecting small-scale fishers. "Small-scale fishers have complained that they return empty-handed almost daily for ten days starting June 15, signaling the end of the ban period," Shyamal points out.

NPSSFW advocates for differential management in fisheries because small fishers cannot compete with big, mechanized boats. Shyamal also notes that promoting and preserving small-scale fishers helps protect marine resources.

"Small-scale fishers are increasingly moving away from fishing activities or transitioning to work for trawlers and other big mechanized boats, indicating that resources are being depleted faster than they can be replenished," he says.

NPSSFW has repeatedly demanded a pan-India differential treatment prioritizing small-scale fishers. Shyamal explains that one reason for this demand is the increasing occurrence of cyclones and natural disasters on the East Coast. He believes that a 120-day ban on mechanized boats could also be beneficial in this context.

According to Shyamal, small-scale fishers benefit from the ban period because trawlers and other large mechanized boats must cease operations entirely.

"It has been confirmed that hand-drawn net fishers near my home [in East Medinipur district] have a significant catch during the ban period. However, soon after the ban ends, small fishers find it difficult to catch fish, and the yield decreases significantly," he explains.

The fishing ban period may be less effective in recharging marine resources. The Marine Policy study found that the monsoon fishing ban, applied to all coastal states, is not very effective because less than 40% of commercially fished species breed during the ban on the West Coast. Given these findings, changes to the regulations might be necessary.

Additionally, large, mechanized boats and trawlers do not always follow the fishing ban. Rodrigues points out that there have been reports of violations by several trawlers and purse seiners, even during the fishing ban period of June-July.

He also mentions that in his conversations with fishermen, some recommend abandoning mechanized fishing or, for small-scale fishers, avoiding using motors and resorting to rowing for fishing for at least two months. This drastic approach, he suggests, could genuinely help replenish fish stock. 

"They claim that even their motors chase away fish and create sound pollution, not just trawlers," he says.

Mechanized menace

According to a 2022 report by the Central Marine Fisheries Research Institute (CMFRI), mechanized fishing vessels accounted for 82.0% of the total catch, totaling 2.85 million tonnes, out of three types of fishing crafts. Motorized fishing crafts contributed 0.61 million tonnes, or 17.0%, while non-motorized fishing crafts brought in just 0.04 million tonnes, representing 1.0% of the total landings.

This significant shift towards mechanized fishing not only impacts the marine ecosystem but also severely affects the lives and livelihoods of small-scale and artisanal fishers.

"Small-scale fishers are finding it hard to survive. They migrate from Andhra Pradesh to work on large mechanized boats operating in West Coast states like Gujarat and Maharashtra," says D. Pal, General Secretary of the Democratic Traditional Fish Workers Forum based in Rajahmundry, a city on the eastern banks of the sacred Godavari River in Andhra Pradesh.

Pal adds that the dominance of mechanized boats has increased over the past eight years due to government policies. He explains that these policies encourage the transition to mechanized fishing, but this shift does not benefit small-scale fishers. Even if the government provides partial financial support for buying mechanized boats, small-scale fishers often cannot meet the rest of the loan requirements.

"They can hardly meet their daily expenses. We can't expect them to gather enough funds to transition to mechanized fishing boats. People with more resources can afford these mechanized boats, while small-scale fishers, unable to compete with the big mechanized boats, end up working on them," he notes.

Pal also pointed out that conflicts between fishermen have escalated in Visakhapatnam. Fishermen from nearby areas, struggling to find a catch in their own regions, come close to the Vishakhapatnam area. Local fishermen in Vishakhapatnam have protested this intrusion, and in some cases, boats belonging to the intruders have been set on fire.

{{marquee}}

Surviving the ban period

Since fisheries fall under state jurisdiction, each state government decides the ban period and whether to offer any financial compensation during this time. As a result, the compensation schemes vary widely and are sometimes completely absent.

In West Bengal, there has been no allowance for the fishing ban period since 2012, when the Savings Cum Relief Scheme—which relied on contributions from the central government, the state, and beneficiaries—was discontinued. This program supported small-scale fishers during the ban period.

This year, the West Bengal government finally addressed a demand made by the Dakshin Banga Matsyajibi Forum in 2017 by launching the Samudra Sathi scheme. This scheme provides Rs 5,000 in compensation to all seafaring fishermen over 21 years old during the ban period. Even trawlers can request compensation under this scheme.

In Andhra Pradesh, all marine fishermen operating mechanized, motorized, and non-motorized vessels receive an allowance of Rs 10,000 during the ban period. However, according to D. Pal, General Secretary of the Democratic Traditional Fish Workers Forum, many small-scale fishers are excluded from this allowance.

"We have corresponded with the fisheries department multiple times over the last three years about this," he said.

Furthermore, additional eligibility criteria restrict who can receive the allowance. For instance, fishermen over 50 are ineligible, leaving many without support during the ban. If someone is over 50 but has no choice but to continue fishing, what will they do? The government doesn't even provide a pension to those over 50," Pal remarked.

Pal also noted widespread corruption, with only a few enjoying diesel subsidies—300 liters for a boat every month. Mechanized boats, which account for most of the fishing activity, tend to receive preferential treatment, monopolizing the subsidies meant for everyone. The subsidies for essential items like ice boxes, new nets, and ropes are frequently redirected towards mechanized boats.

Another source of inequity is that boats under 25 meters are considered small-scale fishers, even if they are motorized. Yet, they do not receive subsidies meant for small-scale fishers. Pal highlighted that many larger boats receiving these benefits belong to influential political leaders.

In April, fishermen associated with the Odisha Traditional Fish Workers Union (OTFWU) called for an increase in compensation during the two-month marine fishing ban from April 15 to June 14. The Odisha government proposed offering Rs. 4,500 to each family during the ban through a scheme focused on providing "livelihood nutritional support for the socio-economic background of active traditional fishery families for conservation of fisheries resources."

K. Alleya, the general secretary of OTFWU, mentioned that the ban would impact about 1.5 lakh traditional fishermen in Odisha who rely on fishing for their livelihoods. He urged the government to increase compensation to at least Rs. 15,000 per family per month during the ban. Additionally, he insisted that women involved in the fishing industry, including those who sell and transport fish, should be included in the list of beneficiaries.

In Goa, there is no allowance for small-scale fish workers during the ban period. "They survive on their savings," says Rodrigues.On the night of January 31 this year, five members of the All Goa Small Scale Responsible Fisheries Union (AGSSRFU) members sailed out from various locations along the northern banks of the Zuari River, which meets the Arabian Sea at Cabo Aguada, Goa, at 11.30 pm. Using GPS cameras and powerful hand lights, they captured evidence of trawlers engaging in illegal mechanized fishing in the Zuari River, near Dona Paula Jetty, about four kilometers from the coast, where the currents were normal and not choppy. The recordings were forwarded to the Director of Fisheries, Government of Goa, and the Superintendent of Police Coastal Security, Panaji, Goa, along with the type of vessel, their registration number, time and date of violation, and coordinates.

The fishermen were acting at the behest of their union lawyers, who advised them to document illegal activities they encountered to demonstrate the state government’s incompetence in not enforcing the orders issued by the Goa bench of the Bombay High Court.

This project originated during my time at Samaj Pragati Sahayaog in Dewas, Madhya Pradesh. Together with Hari Sai Srikar, I was involved in documenting the edible wild greens that thrived abundantly during the monsoon season in a small village named 'Sitapuri,' located alongside the 'Kanad' river. Throughout this process, we meticulously documented our findings, along with several other wonderful discoveries. Among these, was the documentation of local games played by the kids. Anything in their surroundings seemed to become a medium for play and joy for them, so simple and creative. They have a deep-seated connection with nature, as seen in their intuitive understanding of the plants and materials around them. They knew which leaves when crushed produced colors, which one suited best to blow bubbles. Young girls made necklaces breaking reeds and blew bubbles from the sap coming out of plants.
‍

Unlike urban environments where play is often confined to structured playgrounds or indoor spaces, rural children use the vast outdoors as their playground. This natural setting provides endless opportunities for imaginative and unstructured play. The curiosity with which they immerse themselves opens portals of magic for them in the ordinary. The children's ability to repurpose natural elements into toys and games highlights the resourcefulness and adaptability inherent in rural life. Through play, children learn about their local ecosystems. They become familiar with different plants, insects, and animals, gaining practical knowledge about which plants are safe, which insects might sting, and where it’s safe to explore. Many games played by rural children have been passed down through generations. These games often have cultural significance and are a way for children to connect with their heritage. This connection nurtures creativity, resilience, and a sense of community. The way children in Sitapuri and similar villages interact with nature reminds us of the profound relationship between humans and their environment.

An audio-visual record

Sachin makes whistles with leaves from the trees around his house in Sitapuri. We can see here how kids engage all their senses when interacting with their surroundings.

Madhu and Sajjan display their creativity by crafting captivating patterns on leaves with gentle bites, each leaf becoming a canvas for their imagination. With each playful interaction, they explore the infinite possibilities, creating unique designs with an innate understanding of natural aesthetics. This is a delightful illustration of how children effortlessly apply design principles in harmony with nature.

Young girls find ways to make jewelry from the plants around them, breaking down reeds into small pieces carefully, they make these beautiful neckpieces for themselves.

Madhu and Sonu find joy in creating bubbles using the sap of fruits from the Jatropha plant, which thrives abundantly around their home. Their fascination highlights the keen awareness children possess regarding the unique traits of the plants in their environment.

Sajjan delights in plucking the tender leaves of the Sagwan Tree, and with a gentle crush between his hands, unveils brick-red pigments. Children, captivated by the allure of nature's palette, eagerly join in the exploration, uncovering vibrant colors hidden within. These simple yet enchanting games are cherished among the young ones, passed down through generations, fostering a timeless connection with the wonders of the natural world.

Rajma, Idli, Chana. Repeat. Since the green revolution, our plates and palates have shrunk to eat just what is readily available. With the entire country depending on a handful of crops for their nutritional needs, this has had a profound impact on our bodies, ecology, and the soil that grows them. 

In the last 50 years or so, more than 1.10 lakh rice varieties have been lost because of multiple factors. First, high-yielding varieties were favoured; second, the onslaught of monoculture began; and third, chemical usage became rampant. The loss of crop diversity has reduced our nutrition and exposed farmers to the vagaries of climate. 

Our collective dietary choices can go a long way in fighting climate change, and the rules seem simple enough: eat local, seasonal, and traditional food. Yet, making these choices has never been more challenging. With more choices than we can count from distant lands, much of our food is packaged, laced with toxic chemicals or comes with immense food miles. To help consumers make ecologically sustainable choices while rediscovering the lost foods in their region, the Centre for Science and Environment launched ‘First Food: Future of Taste’, the fourth in their series ‘First Food’. The book is a compilation of a hundred climate-resilient and highly nutritious recipes from different parts of India.

The First Food series started in 2000 after CSE’s Down To Earth magazine focused on featuring local ingredients. Vibha Varshney, editor of the First Food series and Down To Earth’s consulting editor, says, “The first book, Taste of India's Biodiversity, focused on food and environment; second, Culture of Taste on community’s knowledge of biodiversity in food and third, Business of Taste on linkages between food, biodiversity and livelihood.”

Preserving traditions

Future of Taste guides cooking in our climate-risked worlds by focusing on resilient ingredients such as galgal (hill lemon) and kulfa (purslane) that are locally foraged. The volume is a survival guide to food shortages and haphazard climate patterns. It encourages you to consume food that thrives despite arid conditions, water scarcity and erratic life cycles. By including traditional knowledge from the grassroots, the book is an entreaty to reimagine and use food parts that are generally wasted, weeds that are often overlooked, and seeds with long shelf lives.  

“Communities in India have used such ingredients to survive periods of distress like droughts or excessive rains or floods,” said Varshney. “Our ancestors had this knowledge. Future of Taste is an effort to preserve this knowledge,” she added. 

The book’s approach involves focusing on one ingredient in one article at a time. Each article narrates its cultural significance, importance to nature, nutritional and medicinal value, livelihood impact and response to climate change. At least one or two recipes later follow the article.

Apart from Varshney, the book's contributors include scientists, bloggers, nutritionists, politicians, and government officials who have shared their personal food stories. Future of Taste also has renowned chefs Manish Mehrotra, Jatin Mallick, and Manjit S Gill to give a spin to the ancient millet and encourage the urban eater to play and innovate. To date, the entire series has showcased 400 recipes.    

Varshney’s belief that carrying out such recipes can create a demand and, thus, business has had encouraging precedents. Millets and makhanas are two recent examples that have grown in popularity. From millet rotis to makhana chaat, these ingredients are now used by the urban consumer in myriad imaginative ways.

First Food is divided into two sections: one focuses on millet accompanied by experimental millet recipes from the chefs. The second section focuses on breakfast, snacks, meals, chutneys, pickles, beverages, and sweets recipes using native ingredients from different regions in the country. For the average reader, surprises are there at each turn of the page. The book reveals recipes for gulmohar flower pakoras and chane ka saag (saag made from chickpea leaves).

 At a glance, the list of ingredients seems unfamiliar and wild. But Varshney dispels the myth that a wide variety of food is inaccessible to city-dwellers. “Many of the ingredients grow wild in urban neighbourhoods. We need to recognise them and find ways of using them,” explains Varshney. For example, young leaves of pilkhan (Ficus virens) can be used to prepare a stir-fried vegetable dish. Though the leaves are abundant for a few weeks in the year, very few know they can be consumed, let alone make an effort to pluck them and prepare a dish.”

The book also includes expert opinions on five Indian ecosystems, including the Himalayas, Sundarbans, Western Ghats, Peninsular Plateau, and Northeast. The spotlight on each ecosystem illuminates its role as a food basket for indigenous communities and beyond. Since documenting biodiversity is a key challenge, Future of Taste chronicles the natural bounty of fish, snails, crab, cereals, millets, legumes, roots, tubers, vegetables, and spices such ecosystems possibly offer. 

Each ecosystem offers unique offerings. For instance, the Himalayas are known for their wild edibles. Consuming these edibles can help marginal communities achieve nutritional security, and documentation through various non-profits also improves their livelihoods. 

In that sense, ‘First Food: Future of Taste’ is a win-win for all. It is time to look around and pluck that oft-seen flower, grow local greens, and ask your vegetable seller for the local and traditional to repair the damage to our soil and bodies. 

Murukesan TP wades into the backwater and disappears into it in a flash. Seconds later, he emerges, carrying in his hands a mound of blackish mud, which he deposits on the shore. This routine continues until he has collected enough of the nutrient-rich mud that will serve as the bed for his mangrove seeds at home.

Murukesan from Malippuram, a small fishing hamlet 13 kilometres from Ernakulam, has over 5,000 mangrove saplings at a small nursery attached to his 10-cent property. For over 11 years now, this fisherman has been working tirelessly towards conserving the region’s mangrove cover. Till date, he has planted more than 50,000 saplings in Elankunnapuzha, Mulavukadu, Valanthakad, Vallarpadam, Puthuvype, Njarakkal, Cherai and Kannammali regions where the mangrove population has declined drastically.

‍

According to a 2009 study carried out by the Kerala Forest Research Institute (KFRI), of the 14 districts in Kerala, mangroves are spread over 10 districts with Kannur having the largest area under mangroves (755 ha), followed by Kozhikode (293 ha) and Ernakulam (260 ha). Over the years, as the burgeoning city began expanding its boundaries, mangrove forests were cleared. 

I was born and raised here, amidst the fields and mangroves, and they have always been a part of my life.

Murukesan, 58, has witnessed this change first hand. “I come from a family of farmers who worked in the Pokkali fields here in Malippuram. I was born and raised here, amidst the fields and mangroves, and they have always been a part of my life. I remember my grandmother cooking the seeds of uppatti (avicennia officinalis) known as black mangrove for they were said to have medicinal properties,” he says. Over time, rapid urbanisation led to the shrinking of mangrove forests and Pokkali rice fields were filled up for construction. 

How it all started

It was in 2013, when he had a chance meeting with an official from the Kerala Forest Department’s social forestry programme that Murukesan decided to get into active conservation. “We spoke about replanting and the idea of a nursery was born then,” he says. He soon set up a makeshift nursery at home.

In 2020, Murukesan improved the infrastructure at the nursery with the support of the MS Swaminathan Research Foundation’s fisheries-based skill development and livelihood enhancement project for coastal villages. Today, the nursery, which is built in the space around his house, is 10 metres in breadth and 40 metres long.

He builds a seed bed by creating a frame on the ground with bamboo pieces stacked close together (about eight to nine inches in height). This is filled with the fertile mud collected from the backwater. After the bed is ready, the seeds are sown and watered periodically. “If it is too sunny, I tie a thin sheet above.” Once the seeds are sown, Murukesan monitors them constantly. “I have to keep checking, remove the bad seeds and ensure they are watered,” he adds. In about three weeks, the seeds sprout two leaves and in two months, they grow up to one-and-a-half feet in height. “This is when the saplings are ready to be planted,” Murukesan adds.

Seed collection usually begins in April and extends up to May – he takes his two-wheeler and goes on a seed hunt. “I usually come back with at least two sacks full of seeds, however, this year, owing to the harsh summer, the seeds were fewer,” he adds. 

Murukesan does the planting himself, too. He takes his boat out to the estuarine zones and plants the saplings close to the shore in such a way that they are not fully submerged during high tide.

The picture, however, isn’t all too rosy. Murukesan does 80% of the work, even though his family and friends chip in at times and the process is expensive. He buys bamboo, rope, sacks, and rents out a machine to cut the bamboo into pieces. Though the organisations/individuals who place the orders for mangrove saplings for planting drives pay him, most of the money is spent from his own pocket, which gets especially challenging when he isn’t able to go out fishing. But Murukesan is undeterred. “I will continue to do what I can to bring mangroves back to their former glory,” he says.

During the initial days, his neighbours saw his work as a futile exercise. They couldn’t understand why he would want to spend time and money on a relatively valueless plant. “Coastal communities often attach a nuisance value to mangroves as they are a safe haven for reptiles, mosquitos and sometimes attract otters; which are seen as pests by people living close to mangroves,” Murukesan says.

But today, things are different. Governmental organisations and private bodies procure saplings from him and he is often invited to give lectures and talks on the importance of mangroves in the region. He has won a number of awards and recognition for his conservation efforts, too. “The people around here have begun to understand my work. I have become a mangrove evangelist,” he laughs.

Even if I can create a difference one tree at a time, I would say it is a step ahead.

Mangrove tree clusters act as a natural barrier against tidal waves, storms and coastal erosion. “It was during the 2018 floods that coastal communities realised the real importance of mangroves. It can prevent coastal flooding to a great extent,” he adds.

They also sustain several marine species. Mangrove swamps serve as feeding, breeding, and spawning ground for fishes, crabs and shrimp. The inorganic nutrients from the land and decomposed leaves supply valuable organic nutrients for marine organisms. The trees, with their wide canopies, act as a sanctuary for birds.

Kochi has about 15 varieties of mangroves and Murukesan deals mostly with Rizophora mucronata (the Asiatic mangrove or bhranthan kandal in Malayalam).

Murukesan is confident that if the afforestation efforts are carried out at this rate, we would be able to witness a visible change in the next 10 years. He says: “Even if I can create a difference one tree at a time, I would say it is a step ahead.” 

What keeps farmers in Coimbatore and its neighbouring districts awake at night? It's not just the usual worries of weather and market prices, but the looming threat of wild animals, especially elephants and boars.

"Every other day, I lose crops worth up to Rs 150," said ‘Manpuzhu' (Earthworm) Ravi, an organic farmer in Uppupallam, Sathyamangalam. For over a decade, he has been waging a silent war against wild boars on his four-acre farm.

In Coimbatore and Sathyamangalam, farmers cultivate various crops such as bananas, mangoes, tomatoes, brinjals, and turmeric. Millets like sorghum and ragi, along with pulses such as black gram and green gram, round out the crop diversity. TBut there is a serious threat to their livelihoods lurking in the form of wild boars. These animals can adapt to diverse habitats, breed quickly, and feed on just about anything, making them well-suited to areas with human activity. The farmers struggle to protect their crops, with the state forest department's measures often falling short. The wild boars wreak havoc on the fields, damaging every stage of the crops from seedlings to maturity.

"Unlike elephants, boars cause seemingly minor damage. For example, they just knock down a few trees. Even getting a paltry compensation of Rs 500 for those few trees is a hassle. So, many farmers simply don't report boar attacks. But the losses add up significantly over time,” said Dr Jayaprakash CR, an expert in human-animal conflict and a certified organic farmer in Thadagam.

Perfect storm

Farms are easy to attack and combined with deforestation and fewer natural predators like tigers, leopards, panthers, wild dogs, and jackals, allowed the wild boar population to grow quickly. According to globalforestwatch.org, Coimbatore lost 262 hectares of natural forest from 2010 to 2023.

Kerala’s boar population grew by more than 40% in the last 15 years, from 40,963 in 1993 to 58,000 in 2019​​.  Since 2022, culling efforts have been enforced with proper protocol to ensure the humane treatment of the boars while not disrupting their role in the ecosystem. Determining the exact wild boar population in Tamil Nadu is challenging due to the lack of a comprehensive statewide census.

The consequences of boar attacks go beyond mere crop damage. “The fear they create is palpable. Farmer unions demand vermin status for wild boars, Centre highlights their role in forest habitat and workers are afraid to even come to the fields," said an office bearer of the Tamilaga Vivasayigal Sangam's (Tamil Nadu Farmer’s Union) G Ranganathan. 

Ideally, a buffer zone of 100 to 200 metres from the forest boundary should remain undeveloped to allow wildlife to move freely and mitigate human-wildlife conflicts. “However, this practice is often ignored, with cultivation extending right up to the forest edge, exacerbating conflicts and disrupting wildlife movements,” said N Sadiq Ali, founder of Wildlife and Nature Conservation Trust (WNCT) in Nilgiris.

Culling vs conservation

In Kerala, the government encourages local bodies to cull wild boars that threaten crops or human life. In March, the government decided to designate the conflict as a state-specific disaster. As a result, the State Disaster Management Authority (SDMA) will also be involved in implementing various remedial actions.

Farmer organisations across Tamil Nadu have also urged their state government to classify the animals as vermin, allowing for their culling. In December 2023, farmers in Tirunelveli asked the government to remove wild boars from the Wildlife Protection Act's 1972 Scheduled List of protected animals. As per the latest announcement, TN’s forest minister M Mathiventhan has officially declared that the government will hunt wild boars that damage agricultural crops beyond 5 km from reserve forests. 

Conservationists, though not entirely against culling, are sceptical of misuse. "A significant fear is that without strict oversight, such measures could lead to indiscriminate killing, affecting not only the targeted wild boar populations but other wildlife species as well," said Ali. 

Kalidasan, founder of Osai, a Coimbatore-based environmental trust, emphasises the wild boar's ecological importance: "It is an essential link in the food chain by providing prey for predators such as leopards and tigers. Its habit of digging the ground fosters plant growth, and its scavenging behaviour helps with nutrient recycling. So, a drastic action like culling must be carried out with careful consideration.” 

The state government formed a 19-member committee in November 2023. Headed by Chief Wildlife Warden Srinivas R Reddy, the committee included forest officials, scientists, and farmers. It conducted field visits to assess the situation and recommend mitigation strategies. Antony Rubin, one of the committee's members, said it found no concrete evidence of culling in Kerala reducing the wild boar population in the long run. "They might disappear for a day or two due to fear, but they eventually return. The compensation system is broken. Lack of transparency in promised payments and municipalities not paying further complicate the situation. To make matters worse, regulations against culling young and lactating animals are being ignored," he added.

Containing the wild boar population requires a multi-pronged approach. "While the forest department initially considered capture and relocation, the logistics have made it unviable," said Kalidasan. "We need to conduct a thorough survey to map wild boar populations and crop damage outside forested areas before making policy decisions. We must also identify and clear their hiding places, such as overgrown areas near streams which are often choked by invasive plants. This could discourage them from encroaching on farmland,” he added.

Ali suggests that camera traps, typically used in forests, could be deployed on forest edges to track the movement of wild boars. This data, he reckons, would help target interventions to reduce conflict and protect animals and communities.

The state government's committee also favours a multifaceted approach, according to Rubin. Apart from identifying 'hot zones' of the wild boar population, he believes studying the impact of feral pigs (which seem to result from interbreeding between domestic and wild pigs), examining the insurance schemes for farmer compensations, and exploring bio-repellent options is crucial for resolving the conflict. "We have suggested all these mitigation measures. And the final framework of the committee will be released soon," said Ali.

"As an organic farmer, I understand biodiversity," said ‘Manpuzhu’ Ravi. “The wild boars aren't at fault. Human encroachment—like resorts on forest land—disregards the environment,” he added. 

To address the growing crisis, GV Sudarshan, a third-generation organic farmer from Gobichettipalayam, Erode, has developed a liquid bio-repellent. Validated by the Forest College and Research Institute of Tamil Nadu Agriculture University, this bio-repellent, according to Sudarshan, can also increase yields and improve soil health. "We've conducted tests in various locations against elephants, wild boars, and even bats," he said, "Once these tests proved successful, we started collaborating with Krishi Vigyan Kendras (KVKs) through the Indian Council of Agricultural Research district research stations for wider application." 

The product is available in Tamil Nadu, Orissa, Uttar Pradesh, Bihar, Gujarat, and Kashmir.