In recent decades, a few large agribusiness companies have increasingly influenced the global food and farming system. Some of these companies control seeds and agrochemicals, while others dominate trade and marketing or own vast amounts of farmland. Their growing influence on farm policy has sparked controversy, particularly regarding the spread of genetically modified (GM) crops and the agrochemicals associated with them.

However, there is mounting evidence that the farming practices promoted by these companies have caused significant ecological damage and are not sustainable. Senior agronomist Rene Dumont says, “Much of the extraordinary increase in (farm) production recorded between 1950 and 1984 was achieved by depleting farm resources.” Similarly, Lester Brown and Edward Wolf points out, “Often the very practices that cause excessive erosion in the long run, such as the intensification of cropping patterns and the ploughing of marginal land, lead to short-term production gains, creating an illusion of progress and a false sense of security. Indeed, the US crop surpluses of the early eighties, which are sometimes cited as the sign of a healthy agriculture, are partly the product of mining soils.”

Unsustainable practices

The green revolution has mostly promoted the use of intensive monocultures, but this practice can hurt the long-term fertility of the land. The World Resources Report (WRR) notes, “Soils under intensive monoculture tend to lose organic matter and their ability to retain moisture, thus becoming more susceptible to erosion and ultimately losing their fertility and productivity.”

Intensive monoculture usually requires a greater use of chemical pesticides. However, only a tiny fraction of the pesticides applied–less than 0.1 percent in some cases—actually targets the intended pests. The rest ends up polluting the land and water, harming birds and other wildlife. As WRR notes, “wholesale elimination of helpful soil-dwelling insects and microorganisms that build soil and plant nutrition sometimes occurs, essentially sterilising the soil.”

It's well-known that using too many chemical fertilisers can reduce the flavour of food, but what's less recognised is that it can also lower its nutritional value and lead to serious health issues. According to nutrition expert C Gopalan, “the use of high analysis chemical fertilisers, which is part of the modern intensive agricultural technology, had not always gone hand-in-hand with appropriate measures for soil testing and soil replenishment, with the result that, as shown by the studies of FAO, there are disturbing evidences of micronutrient depletion of soils in some areas; these are likely to be eventually reflected in impaired nutritive value of food-grains grown in such soils.”

Richard Douthwaite in his recent book The Growth Illusion writes, “Nitrogenous fertilisers can raise the amount of nitrate in the final crop to four or five times the level found in the compost-growing equivalent, while at the same time cutting vitamin C and dry matter levels. This change is potentially serious, since nitrates can be turned into powerful carcinogenic nitrosamines by bacteria found in the mouth, while vitamin C has been shown to protect against cancers.”

Climate crisis

The dangers of overusing chemical fertilisers have become even greater in the era of climate change. The International Panel for Climate Change estimates that for every 100 kg of nitrogen fertiliser applied to the soil, one kg ends up in the atmosphere as nitrous oxide, a greenhouse gas 300 times more potent than carbon dioxide and the world’s most significant ozone-depleting substance.

Wendell Berry, the well-known writer and farmer-philosopher from the USA, has argued that, beyond damaging the soil and environment, many modern farming practices promoted by big business and governments are forcing small farms out of business, disrupting rural communities and their culture.

In his famous book ‘The Unsettling of America: Culture and Agriculture’ he writes, “A healthy farm culture can be based only upon familiarity and can grow only among a people soundly established upon the land; it nourishes and safeguards a human intelligence of the earth that no amount of technology can satisfactorily replace. The growth of such a culture was once a strong possibility in the farm communities of this country (USA). We now have only the sad remnants of those communities. If we allow another generation to pass without doing what is necessary to enhance and embolden the possibility now perishing with them, we will lose it altogether.”  

The disconnect

The social and ecological harms are connected, as large companies can't care for the soil and crops in the same way that small farmers and farming communities can. The machines now doing most of the work on farms in wealthier countries can increase food production, but they can't protect the soil for future generations. As more skilled farmers leave agriculture, it's becoming less likely that there will be enough people to not only produce food but also care for the land and soil. Farm animals are increasingly treated like mere commodities, with little attention to their well-being. 

On the consumption side, poverty and inequality prevent many people from getting enough food, but even those who can afford it struggle to find wholesome, nutritious options. The market is dominated by food that’s heavily treated with chemicals or processed in ways that strip away valuable nutrients and add harmful substances.

The London Food Commission reported that at least 92 pesticides were cleared for use in Britain, despite being linked to cancer, birth defects, or genetic mutations in animal studies. In poorer countries, health risks can be even higher, as pesticides and other harmful agrochemicals banned in wealthier nations are often sold cheaply, posing dangers to both consumers and farmers who are in close contact with these harmful chemicals.

Illusion of safety

Regarding food additives, the London Food Commission noted that around 3,800 additives are used to perform about 100 different functions. The Commission stated, “A single meal may contain a cocktail of 12 to 16 additives. The combinations of additives may react with each other and with foods to produce new chemical substances.”

Much of the confusion comes from treating agriculture like an industry—or even mining—focused solely on maximising short-term production and profit. Wendell Berry has effectively pointed out the flaws in this widespread approach.

“The farmer differs from the industrialist in that the farmer is necessarily a nurturer, a preserver of the health of creatures.” He further writes, “The economy of industry is, typically, extractive. It takes, makes, uses, and discards, it progresses, that is from exhaustion to pollution. Agriculture, on the other hand, rightly belongs to a replenishing economy, which takes, makes, uses, and returns - it involves the return to the source, not just of fertility or of so-called wastes, but also of care and affection.”

Explaining why this fundamental understanding of agriculture is often overlooked today, Wendell Berry writes, “The ‘free market’—the unbridled play of economic forces—is bad for agriculture because it is unable to assign a value to things that are necessary to agriculture. It gives a value to agricultural products, but it cannot give a value to the sources of those products in the topsoil, the ecosystem, the farm, the farm family, or the farm community. Indeed, people who look at farming from the standpoint of the ‘free market’ do not understand the relation of product to source. They believe that the relation is merely mechanical because they believe that agriculture is or can be an industry. And the ‘free market’ is helpless to suggest otherwise.”

Roadmap

Government policies that strongly promote ecologically sustainable farming and support rural communities could offer new hope. In this regard, the Indian government's recent announcement to promote natural farming on a larger scale is a positive step. However, it’s important to recognize that this cannot coexist with conflicting trends like the promotion of GM crops. GM crops pose serious health hazards and environmental risks, and their contamination can easily spread to conventional and naturally or organically grown crops. Most independent scientists oppose GM crops. India’s leading expert on the issue, Prof. Pushpa M Bhargava, who founded the Centre for Cellular and Molecular Biology and was appointed by the Supreme Court of India to advise on related issues, summarised the situation: “There are over 500 research publications by scientists of indisputable integrity, who have no conflicts of interest, that establish harmful effects of GM crops on human, animal and plant health and on environment and biodiversity… On the other hand, virtually every paper supporting GM crops is by scientists who have a declared conflict of interest or whose credibility and integrity can be doubted.”

This highlights a key point: the industrial agriculture system cannot protect the most essential need for safe and healthy food. Its main goal is to increase profits and control for large multinational agro-businesses, which rely on risky technologies and inputs like agro-chemicals, whose health dangers are well-known, and GM crops, which come with serious hazards. Despite all the promotion of industrial farming, the safety of food and the sustainability of small farming households are best supported by natural farming systems based in small farmer and family farm communities.

Vast stretches of green and golden paddy spikes sway in the cool breeze, creating a musical rhythm as you glide through the brackish waters of the naturally organic Kaipad (kayal padam) fields, fringed by mangroves. The fields are the lifeblood of coastal villages in Kannur, Kasargod, and Kozhikode, especially in Ezhome panchayat, Kannur, the hub of Malabar Kaipad cultivation.

Here, Dr Vanaja T, associate director of research at Kerala Agriculture University and head of the Regional Agriculture Research Station (RARS) in Pilicode, Kasargod has been working passionately to breed better varieties of paddy for farmers.

“I have hybridised traditional and international varieties in a more saline region than before, creating a high-yielding, saline- and flood-resistant variety with better nutritional value,” she said. Dr Vanaja’s dedication, combined with the farmers' needs, led to the development of five organic, saline-resistant hybrid varieties: Ezhome 1, 2, 3, 4, Jaiva (for non-saline fields), and Mithila, all the result of experiments started in 2000.

Indigenous methods

The rich biodiversity of the land is palpable. The unique calm is as soothing to the mind as the nutritious Kaipad rice is to the body, a connection evident in the villagers' health. “We eat only Kaipad rice in various forms, accompanied by organic vegetables, tubers, fruit, or fish from our farms. We grow paddy during the monsoon in saline-free water, from June to November, and fish after the harvest, from mid-November to April,” said agriculturist C Govindan Nambiar.

“We have always followed this unique indigenous farming method. The saline-resistant rice varieties are nurtured and nourished by the tidal flow. Before the monsoon sets in, we make mounds. After the rains remove the salinity, we sow the seeds in each mound. When it's time to replant, the men scatter the mounds in a specific way, and the women place the saplings in the right positions. We sow and reap in neck- or knee-deep water and marshy soil–a very laborious task. The beds are visible during low tide,” he said.

“We do not use fertilisers or pesticides. After the harvest, it’s time for fish. The sluice gates are closed, and the fish, shrimp, and crab seedlings that flow in from the sea feed on the paddy stubs and other organic matter. After harvesting the fish, they are often exported. The stubble waste, fish, and bird droppings, including those of migratory birds, fertilise the soil,” Nambiar explained.

“We did face issues, but thanks to Vanaja madam, most have been resolved,” he added.

Reviving Kaipad rice

Vanaja has been instrumental in reviving Kaipad rice cultivation and supporting small and marginal farmers through her research and initiatives. “When I started my career as an agriculture officer, I was appointed to the Pepper Research Institute, despite specialising in rice. On State Farmers' Day, the first day of the Malayalam month of Chingam in 2000, I was asked to give a talk to the farmers of Ezhome Panchayat as part of the celebrations. I spoke about various aspects of rice farming when Govindan Nambiar, representing the farmers, interrupted, saying my talk had nothing to offer them.”

Vanaja paused and asked about their concerns. The farmers struggled with low yields from the indigenous Kuthiru and Orkkayama varieties, lodging (where stalks fall to the ground), and the nuisance of awns during harvest.

We should salute the hands that secure food just as we salute the hands that defend the country.

Though she was at the Pepper Institute, she promised the farmers that she would support them, even if it meant conducting the research herself. When she presented the DPR, the university approved it because it was a demand from the farmers that no one had addressed.

New varieties

Vanaja began her experiment at home, hybridising traditional varieties in 200 pots. After much effort, she successfully developed a set of seeds. She leased Kaipad land from a farmer, turning the area into her lab. Vanaja involved the farmers to understand their needs and combine their knowledge with science. After many trials and evaluations based on various criteria, she developed Ezhome 1 and 2 in 2010, naming them after the village. That same year, the Malabar Kaipad Farmers' Society (MKFS) was established, focusing on the conservation, cultivation, consumption, and commercialisation of Kaipad rice. Ezhome 3 was developed in 2014, followed by Ezhome 4 in 2015.

The new varieties offer 60 to 80 percent higher yields than the traditional ones. They are lodging- and awn-free, tastier, and more nutritious.

During the harvest festival inauguration for Ezhome 3, the then agriculture minister was taken by canoe to cut the stalks. However, the canoe overturned, drenching the minister. Along with the local MLA, the minister waded knee-deep through the field to cut the sheaves, gaining firsthand experience of the farmers' struggles.

“The new varieties offer 60 to 80 percent higher yields than the traditional ones. They are lodging- and awn-free, tastier, and more nutritious,” said Vanaja. After years of effort, Kaipad rice received the Geographical Indication (GI) tag in 2014.

“Ezhome 4 is high yielding and flood-resistant, and farmers want to grow more,” said Ezhome panchayat president P Govindan. “But labour shortages, high production costs, lack of mechanisation, and low prices prevent expansion. We need to attract younger generations by boosting the food security army, offering monthly salaries, and introducing mechanisation.”

Challenges and opportunities

In 2019, the governmental agency Kaipad Area Development Society (KADS) was established, with Dr Vanaja as its director. It is the only agency of its kind in north Kerala. According to farmers, the northern districts are a neglected area. In 2020, the Malabar Kaipad Farmer Producer Company (MKFPO) was registered.

To support the farmers and encourage self-entrepreneurship, a Food Security Army (FSA) was formed on a profit-sharing basis. “We should salute the hands that secure food just as we salute the hands that defend the country,” said Vanaja.

The consumption of Kaipad rice has been significantly promoted through awareness initiatives in 52 self-governing bodies across three districts. Kaipad products have been introduced in markets throughout Kerala. The importance of healthy eating is conveyed through a food park set up near the Thavam rail overbridge in Cherukunnu panchayat. Slogans highlighting the need for and benefits of nutritious, organic food adorn the walls. The area houses a production unit and an outlet where Kaipad rice, rice flakes, ‘puttu’, ‘pathiri’, idiyappam, prawn chutney powders, sweetened rice balls, and health mixes for all ages, as well as ‘payasam’, are sold. Most products are also available online.

In the food park, rice gruel made from Kaipad rice is served in earthen pots, accompanied by legumes, ember-roasted ‘papad’, pickles, vegetables, and tonic chutney made from Indian pennywort (muthil), water hyssop (brahmi), or other medicinal herbs. It costs Rs 50. Fish and eggs are also served at an additional charge. “We take turns cooking, making value-added products, packing, and selling in our outlets, catering to tourists who generally book in advance. The gruel at the park is a hit, and our products are in demand,” said Soumya of FSA.

Farm tourism is also being promoted, offering visitors the opportunity to participate in the cultivation process, enjoy canoe rides, relish healthy food, and bask in the beauty of nature.

Kaipad rice and its value-added products were first exported to the UAE in 2019 and are now reaching other countries. The demand exceeds supply. “Today, people have begun to approach us for rice and value-added products, but we don’t have enough paddy to fulfill large orders. Last year, we harvested only 9 tonnes, compared to 15,000 tonnes the year before,” said MKFPC secretary Nidhina Das.

MKFS secretary M K Sukumaran supports her claims. “We have new seed varieties, but cultivation has decreased by 50 percent compared to a few years ago because it has become risky. When farmers are unable to cultivate for a year, mangroves intrude, and it’s illegal to clear them. Moreover, climate change, saline intrusion, and threats from pigs, tortoises, and birds present significant hurdles. We can increase cultivation if the government helps us address these issues and raises our subsidy. The government’s promises have yet to reach us,” he said.

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“Steps are being taken to address the challenges facing Kaipad and make cultivation profitable to attract more farmers and youth. The government has begun marketing organic rice varieties and value-added products from across the state online under the brand ‘Kerala Agro’ through the Krishi Bhavan to secure better returns for farmers,” said agriculture minister P Prasad.

In 2020, MKFS received the Plant Genome Saviour Community Award from Indian president Droupadi Murmu during the Global Symposium for Farmers’ Rights in September 2023, in New Delhi. The Kaipad stall was one of the few visited by the president.

Meanwhile, Vanaja is focusing on the Research and Development Centre being set up on a hillock where viewers can see the Kaipad fields. The lower floor will house the food park and outlets, while the upper floor will contain the lab and other facilities. “I had to depend on toilets in farmers' houses. Better infrastructure will help attract more researchers and contribute more to Kaipad development,” she said.

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India’s food industry is fueling a health crisis, with low-nutrition processed foods contributing to rising rates of diabetes and heart disease. Additives like rhodamine B, potassium bromate, and formalin are sneaking into everyday meals, posing serious risks to public health.

“Indian companies make food on an industrial scale which has very low calorific value with hardly any minerals that are needed to the human body. They do satisfy and increase your hunger pang leading you to overeating,” said Yatish Rajawat, founder of the Center for Innovation in Public Policy.

He pointed out the “regulators are doing a disservice to a nation of 1.5 billion people” by hiding the bigger problem behind a smokescreen of actions.

“These raids are done with the basic objective of misleading the public. The regulators have to show that they are doing something but they don’t do anything against the whole food industry. It is only when public outcry rises there is a reaction. There is no fundamental change in the way these organisations work,” he said.

“The challenge the country is facing is that we now have the second highest number of diabetes in the world. We also have the largest number of cardiovascular patients so this health crisis is basically looming right in front of the industry,” he added.

What to avoid

As the industry continues to grapple with the issue at large, consumers need to make an effort from their end to understand what to eat and what to avoid. 

Rhodamine B

A textile dye that has entered the food supply to produce brilliant pinks, greens, and blues.

Where is it used? 

Commonly used as a food colouring agent in cotton candy, sweets, manchurian dishes, pakoras, and sauces for Chinese cuisine.

Potassium bromate

A flour treatment agent linked to cancer. Potassium bromate is an oxidising agent that makes bread loaves fluffy and soft.

Where is it used? 

High levels of potassium bromate/iodate have been detected in sandwich bread, pav, buns, and white bread from popular brands. The same report mentioned fast food giants selling pizza and burgers also use it.

Oxytocin

Often called the cuddle hormone, oxytocin is a naturally occurring hormone that is misused in the dairy industry to boost milk production. Prolonged consumption can lead to dizziness, nausea, early puberty, mood swings, irregular heart rate, and potential harm to foetal development.

“We know of cases where the drug is stocked and supplied illegally for use other than its intended purpose. People tend to misuse it and having control over its manufacturing, sale and distribution will ensure it is used primarily in the labour rooms for deliveries,” said C K Mishra, former secretary, Ministry of Health and Family Welfare.

Where is it used? 

In addition to milk, oxytocin is present in various foods rich in Vitamin D, Vitamin C, magnesium, and dietary fats, such as fatty fish, mushrooms, peppers, tomatoes, and spinach. It is also used to increase the size of vegetables like pumpkins, watermelons, brinjals, gourds and cucumbers.

Calcium carbide 

Calcium Carbide is primarily used to ripen fruits. However, its components, often referred to as 'masala,' can lead to severe health problems, including dizziness, excessive thirst, irritation, weakness, difficulty swallowing, vomiting, and skin ulcers, as highlighted by the Food Safety and Standards Authority of India (FSSAI) in a warning issued in May during the height of mango season. Further, the gas released by this chemical poses significant dangers to the workers who handle it.

Where is it used? 

The chemical is applied to fruits such as mangoes, bananas, and papayas to accelerate ripening. This helps ensure that fresh fruit remains available, even when it’s out of season.

Formalin

Formalin, also known as formaldehyde, can lead to both short- and long-term health issues. In the short term, it can increase the risk of abortion in pregnant women and weaken the immune system. Prolonged exposure may result in reduced fertility and has been identified as a carcinogen. 

Where is it used? 

Formalin is commonly used to preserve fish. Opting for wild-caught seafood instead of farmed fish can reduce the chances of consuming formalin-treated products.

Brominated vegetable oil (BVO)

Introduced in the 1930s, BVO has become a significant part of the soft drinks industry. This additive emulsifies citrus-flavoured beverages, ensuring they do not separate during distribution.

Where is it used? 

BVO is found in soft drinks and has been associated with various health concerns due to its potential to accumulate in the body.

‍The regulatory loophole 

A recent case in Karnataka revealed carcinogenic substances in 12 out of 235 cake samples tested statewide. In response, the government issued "strict instructions" to outlets to adhere to food safety and quality standards.

However, the growing number of alarming food practices reports shows that issuing warnings isn't enough. There is an urgent need for a stronger regulatory framework, given the current prevalence of food laced with unsafe materials.

“These dyes they found–has anyone questioned how harmful the dyes used by the packaged food industry are?” asked Rajawat. He pointed out that grade two dyes, along with preservatives, emulsifiers, and coagulants, are commonly used. “It is a very sad commentary on a large part of the system that has forgotten the purpose it was set up for,” he added.

Regulators are doing a disservice to a nation of 1.5 billion people.

The government's lack of attention has eroded public confidence. A 2024 survey highlighted this scepticism, with over 7 in 10 Indians expressing doubt in the country’s food regulatory authorities’ ability or willingness to ensure food safety.

In June, the Food Safety and Standards Authority of India (FSSAI) cancelled the manufacturing licences of 111 Indian spice producers, ordering them to cease operations. Following this, the Indian Spice Board, a division of the Union Commerce and Industry Ministry, released new guidelines to prevent contamination in spice production and export.

“In terms of its presence and efficacy, the FSSAI (and its counterparts) is possibly one of the weakest regulators in the country. The reason for it is, nobody has paid much attention to strengthening it over the years,” said Rajawat.

‍‍“The regulatory body in India has taken upon itself that its role is to promote the food industry. Protecting the customer and safeguarding health and nutrition has completely gone out of focus,” he added.

India's ongoing food safety issues continue to raise concerns about regulations and public health. Consumers need to take greater interest in what they eat, demanding safer practices and transparency in the food supply.

Evolving a satisfactory food and farming system has been a subject of intense debate in many countries. The goal is to find common ground among those who genuinely care about healthy, safe food; farmers' welfare through sustainable livelihoods; protecting the environment and biodiversity; and the well-being of farm animals.

Such a consensus must then be discussed in the specific context of various countries so that such policies can then be implemented in the context of the more special needs, problems and assets of any country, and this must be a high priority task for India too. 

It's helpful for shaping policies when all the goals of a good food and farming system align. Providing safe, healthy food goes hand in hand with creating sustainable and fulfilling livelihoods for farmers. Both also support the goal of protecting the environment and other forms of life. This means the best policies arise from understanding how these goals work together and pursuing them without causing unnecessary conflicts.

Natural farming

Starting with farming methods, natural farming is the best option. This means avoiding harmful technologies and chemical inputs, but natural farming goes beyond that. It requires continuous, careful observation and a deep understanding of nature so farming can advance in harmony with nature rather than against it.

People often say that natural farming doesn’t produce enough, but this isn’t true. Natural farming works best with mixed farming, where different crops are grown together. When you look at the total food and fodder produced, well-managed natural farms often have higher yields. Plus, the yields from natural farming are sustainable over time. As the soil improves and water is conserved, the yields may even increase, unlike chemical-based farming, where the soil gets damaged, and yields tend to drop over time.

Moreover, natural farming supports pollinators like bees, as well as other helpful insects and birds. It also provides more space for farm animals, especially cattle, to be cared for in healthier ways, promoting the well-being of all forms of life.

In India, where most farmers are small-scale, natural farming is especially important because it costs much less than chemical-intensive, large-scale monoculture farming. Expenses like commercial seeds, chemical fertilisers, pesticides, herbicides, heavy machinery, and diesel can be greatly reduced or avoided. The approach also ties into the idea of rural self-reliance, or 'gram swaraj’. It encourages rural communities to meet their own needs as much as possible, especially in farming. Small farmers practising natural farming can be resourceful, using local materials often available for free.

Cutting farming costs also lowers farmers' debts. Low-cost farming that provides steady, sustainable yields strengthens the overall economy of farming. This can get even better with smarter mixed farming, improved crop rotations, and better soil and water conservation. Additionally, timely economic support from the government during bad weather would greatly benefit farmers.

All of this will help rural communities adapt better to climate change. Practices like improving soil conservation, boosting organic matter, planting more trees and cover crops, using less heavy machinery and diesel, minimising waste through a circular system, and avoiding chemical fertilisers and pesticides will reduce reliance on fossil fuels and contribute to climate change mitigation.

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Food production

Natural farming helps farmers avoid harmful chemicals and reduces the risk of accidents from heavy machinery. At the same time, it produces healthy food free from chemical pesticides, herbicides, and fertilisers. Natural farming improves soil health and provides a balanced mix of nutrients, resulting in healthier, more nutritious crops and helps prevent health issues related to a lack of essential micronutrients. Further, natural farming has no room for genetically modified (GM) crops, protecting consumers from serious health risks associated with GM foods.

Natural farming with small farming communities is the best path for India. However, many rural households are landless and often among the poorest. Therefore, efforts should be made to provide small plots of land to those landless households willing to practise eco-friendly farming. This would significantly enhance food security for the poorest rural families in India.

The food system can greatly improve by boosting food processing activities in villages. This should have two main goals. First, small-scale processing can better protect food health and safety. Second, increasing food processing in villages can raise the income of many rural households, including those without land, by creating more jobs, especially for women, closer to home. It's important to recognise and respect the significant role women play in both food processing and farming.

Food processing should be better connected with marketing so rural communities can directly reach urban consumers and offer healthy, safe food at fair prices for both farmers and consumers. Such an approach also makes it easier to support nutrition programs like mid-day school meals and anganwadis by supplying them with fresh, healthy produce from local farms.

Government support

The government should buy grains, millets, pulses, and other products from local villages for ration shops or the public distribution system whenever possible. This would reduce unnecessary transportation costs and provide healthier local food.

Rural employment under MGNREGA, which helps with water and moisture conservation, usually pays cash wages, but at least part of the payment could be made with healthy food from natural farming sourced within the village.

The government should allocate more funds to support this ideal food and farming system and avoid wasting resources on schemes and technologies that are harmful to health and the environment.

Do you remember eating tulsi leaves to ward off a fever? Ever wondered why curry leaves are a staple in many Indian dishes, or why sandalwood paste is used in religious ceremonies?

Herbs found in our kitchen gardens, local areas, or even the wild–if you're lucky enough to live near forests–offer powerful health benefits. They aid digestion, relieve migraines, reduce cholesterol, and treat ailments like dengue and arthritis thanks to their antiseptic, antiviral, antioxidant, and astringent qualities.

Prof Madhulika Banerjee, a political science professor at Delhi University, chronicles 100 wonder herbs from India in her new book The Herbal Sutra, beautifully illustrated by Anita Verma. Banerjee provides valuable insights into their medicinal, culinary and cosmetic uses, from familiar herbs like ginger and garlic to lesser-known ones such as Lokha (King of Bitters) and Chisheng (Himalayan Cinquefoil). The book is a gold mine of wisdom, combining practical benefits with trivia on each herb’s traditions and lesser-known applications.

Ayurveda vs biomedicine

Is alternative medicine effective? The professor said this debate is rooted in power dynamics. No surprise then that her PhD thesis was titled Power, Culture, Medicine: Ayurvedic Pharmaceuticals in India, building on her MPhil case study of the Bhopal Gas Tragedy.

“There were two key debates about Bhopal. One focused on the legality of the tragedy, and the other on health and medical issues. That’s when I first realised medicine is a deeply contested terrain,” she said.

Herb extraction, owing to high demand and large-scale manufacturing, is occurring at a rate that we simply don't fully understand. Those knowledgeable about it have no way of controlling the process because the powers overseeing extraction are much stronger.

As the daughter of a surgeon, Banerjee questions why many believe biomedicine–or Western medicine–is the only valid form of knowledge, especially since it has existed for just over 200 years and constantly evolves.

“Legitimacy is an expression of power. When anybody asserts the legitimacy of a particular system of knowledge, of practice or anything, it's vital to understand its underlying power structures,” she said. 

Ayurveda, a knowledge system practised for centuries, boasts sophisticated methods of diagnosis, treatment, and analysis, which deserve equal recognition. Comparing Ayurveda to biomedicine is unfair, said Banerjee.

"Ayurveda practitioners first made it their business to understand biomedicine, anatomy and physiology. Eventually, the Central Council for Research in Ayurvedic Sciences was set up by the Government of India in the late 60s. Around the same time, the notion of Ayurvedic formularies was linked to modern pharmaceutical industries. These formularies were being set up with a systematic search on different texts, and thus, a pharmacopeia was created,” she said.

Initially, researchers aimed to validate Ayurveda through Western biomedicine standards, but by the 21st century, this approach shifted. The researchers demanded a different frame of reference.

Dr P Rammanohar, a skilled Ayurvedic doctor and researcher, convinced the National Institutes of Health (NIH), the top US research body, to test whether Ayurveda could cure rheumatoid arthritis. He not only secured the trial in India but also extended it from six weeks to six months and created a full trial protocol based on Ayurvedic principles.

“The trial conducted by Rammanohar was completely transparent and the NIH was free to come watch, observe, make their own recordings about what was going on, etc.” said Banerjee, adding that scientists and researchers across India are bravely continuing this kind of work, often facing funding challenges.

Herb extraction

Herbal remedies have become very popular in the last 25 years. Because of this, organisations started to ignore the traditional knowledge about gathering these herbs, which local communities used to know.

“There is a procedure and a specification for how much to take to collect each element–whether it's a flower, leaf or root. You also needed to know what season you could access each part and which seasons you could not, i.e., the plant's regeneration time. Also, every forest had a sacred area from which nothing could be collected,” she said.

Now, these thoughtful practices are largely forgotten.

“Herb extraction, owing to high demand and large-scale manufacturing, is occurring at a rate that we simply don't fully understand. Those knowledgeable about it have no way of controlling the process because the powers overseeing extraction are much stronger. As a result, several herbs, such as Aconitum heterophyllum (Atees), Picrorhiza kurroa (Kutki), Saussurea costus (Kuth), Asparagus racemosus (Shatavari), Pluchea lanceolata (Rasna Jadi), and Rauvolfia serpentina (Sarpagandha), are now listed as endangered on the IUCN Red List,” she said.

To combat this, urban herbal garden kits were introduced two decades ago by pioneers like Hariram Murthy. Urban dwellers can grow herbs like lemon grass, tulsi, aloe vera, hibiscus, giloy and ashwagandha in their balconies.

Herbal remedies

Ayurveda offers remedies that can provide both quick relief and long-term benefits. “It is a misconception that traditional medicine only works over a long time. When you have a headache and must pop a pill to report to work, that changes your notion of time. It is no coincidence that biomedicine developed during the Industrial Revolution.”

Banerjee emphasised the delicate balance Ayurveda maintains between diet, sleep, lifestyle and medicine. To ensure their efficacy, herbs must be used with care, adhering to known restrictions prescribed by qualified practitioners. "Paying attention to nature, and ourselves, is key," she concluded.

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India has a long history of growing traditional oilseeds like groundnut, mustard, and sesame. Coconut also provides a good source of edible oil, while trees such as mahua, karanj, kusum, and kokum contribute oils in smaller amounts. Recently, however, there has been a push to promote palm oil, with efforts underway to expand its plantations rapidly. It’s crucial to highlight the need to protect and support the country’s diverse traditional oilseed crops and trees.

Importance of traditional oil seeds

Oil from traditional oilseeds and desi ghee are the preferred cooking options for most people in India. Pure traditional oilseeds offer unsaturated and polyunsaturated fats, which are beneficial for health. After oil extraction, the leftover oil cake serves as nutritious and much-loved feed for dairy and farm animals. Oilseeds can be processed in small, village-level units, producing healthier oils and supporting sustainable livelihoods.

Such traditional oilseeds provide not only edible oil but also key ingredients in many delicious dishes, snacks, and sweets, often paired with healthy foods like jaggery. For instance, rewaris and gazaks made with groundnuts and sesame are winter staples, and groundnuts are enjoyed in their simplest forms. Mustard plants are even more versatile—besides oil, their leaves are used to make 'sarson da saag,' a beloved dish in Punjab and other parts of India. They also have many medicinal uses, and home remedies based on them help millions of people every day.

Traditional oilseeds are also very well integrated in the prevailing crop rotations and mixed farming systems, and millions of farmers have valuable skills and knowledge related to these crops and trees. Additionally, many artisans possess important small-scale oil processing skills, though they are struggling due to lack of support and competition from larger companies.

Moreover, many traditional oilseeds and trees play important roles in festivals, religious ceremonies, and cultural practices, as well as in shaping the natural beauty of villages and landscapes.

For example, the bloom of mustard fields is a sight to behold, and the coconut tree is often seen as a symbol of tropical beauty and abundance. The loss of these traditional crops and practices would not only impact local economies and traditions, but also erase a significant part of cultural identity and heritage for these communities.

Supporting farmers

India's policy should focus on supporting farmers in increasing the production of traditional oilseeds in ways that are environmentally friendly. Even a modest increase in the area planted with these oilseeds, if incentivized, can significantly increase the production of traditional oils and help India meet its edible oil needs.

However, the government's focus on soybean and palm oil has meant that traditional oilseeds have not received adequate support. Despite the fact that traditional oilseeds offer many advantages over these imported sources of oil, the government continues to prioritise them.

In the past, when the government has provided adequate support to traditional oilseeds, farmers have responded positively and production has increased to the point where India was close to being self-reliant in terms of meeting its edible oil needs. Unfortunately, this period of support was short-lived as the government began to favour importing cheaper oils.

Risks of hydrogenated oils

Hydrogenation involves adding hydrogen to liquid fats, such as vegetable oil, transforming them into solid fats at room temperature. It's a common ingredient in processed foods, aimed at improving both shelf life and flavour. However, despite its widespread use, hydrogenated oil is considered unhealthy, and experts recommend limiting its consumption.

The shift towards hydrogenated oils has also had negative impacts on both public health and farming communities. The process involves chemically altering natural vegetable oils—often using harmful catalysts—to strip away their colour and odour, making it possible to use cheaper, lower-quality fats. The practice is favoured by large corporations for cost savings but raises health concerns. There is even the potential for adulteration of desi ghee with hydrogenated oil, as the two look alike. Ultimately, hydrogenation turns nutritious unsaturated fats into unhealthy saturated fats, posing risks to consumers.

Farmers who grow healthy oilseeds and small-scale processors who produce pure edible oils were disadvantaged by big businesses that imported cheap oils and sold hydrogenated oil. This made it harder for traditional oilseed production to grow enough to meet the demand for healthy oils. For a while, the government focused mainly on rice and wheat, which led to oilseeds, pulses, and millets being relatively neglected.

Palm invasion

To make up for past mistakes, the government should have focused on promoting traditional oilseeds and encouraging small, village-level processing units. However, instead of doing this, the government has shifted towards promoting palm oil plantations.

Unlike traditional oilseeds, palm oil fruit can only be processed in large business units and must be processed or extracted immediately, or it will spoil. The palm trees require a lot of water and are typically grown on large plantations, which can harm local biodiversity, especially in sensitive areas like the North East and the Andaman and Nicobar Islands where it's being promoted. The need for quick transport of the fruit can further disrupt the environment due to the infrastructure required

While there have been many cases of farmers losing interest in palm oil trees and giving them up early on, government support and subsidies could help some farmers in the short term. This might lead to a quick spread of palm oil cultivation in certain areas, but the key concern is whether it's sustainable, which is uncertain. Even if there are some successes in a few places, palm oil is still not a better alternative to traditional oilseeds, which offer many benefits that shouldn't be overlooked.

The current concern is that the combination of cheap imported palm oil and the push for domestic palm oil production will hurt traditional oilseeds. They won't be able to compete for fair prices in a market flooded with cheaper oils, including imported oils, domestic palm oil, and hydrogenated oils. As a result, traditional oilseeds will face tougher conditions.

This is why it’s important to raise awareness now, as this could mark the start of a steady decline in traditional oilseeds. When millets and pulses faced challenges, not enough warnings were given, and their decline couldn’t be stopped. If people recognise the threat to traditional oilseeds now, it may be possible to rally public support for efforts to protect India’s rich heritage of these crops.

As the morning sun softly illuminates the rooftops in Lankrishpora, a village in North Kashmir's Bandipora district, a group of young girls rows their traditional wooden boats toward Wular Lake. Their mission: to extract water chestnuts from the lake's depths.

Among them is Asiya, a 26-year-old woman who steers her boat with others to the center of Wular Lake. She spends 5-6 hours each day harvesting water chestnuts, locally known as singhara or water caltrops. Her weathered hands reflect generations of tradition tied to this unique fruit.

For Asiya, who dropped out of school at sixteen, harvesting these chestnuts is more than just a livelihood–it’s a source of pride. "Girls like me do not go outside to work," she said. "This is what we do. My family depends on these chestnuts, and I feel proud to be part of that."

The edible gems 

In the Kashmir Valley, water chestnuts have long been a cherished staple. From June to September, this delicately flavored fruit becomes a key ingredient in local diets and a highlight of the region's food markets. For many, these chestnuts are a vital food source that defines their culinary traditions.

"In summer, the demand for fresh water chestnuts is much higher than in winter, when they are dried and sold to local traders," said Bashir Ahmad, a fisherman from Bandipora. "Every day, tens of thousands of kilograms of green water chestnuts are sold across Kashmir."

Boiled water chestnuts have a mild, slightly sweet flavor and a chewy texture, making them popular in local households. Often consumed plain, with just a pinch of salt added during boiling, they pair perfectly with namkeen tea.

"The fresh chestnuts are a perfect light snack with tea," said Fatima, a homemaker from Bandipora. "They’re not too heavy, and their mild sweetness complements the tea beautifully. We also dry them to make flour for winter."

In Lahrwalpora village, piles of raw chestnuts are a common sight on the porches of many homes. In the evenings, women and men sit together, boiling the chestnuts and removing their kernels. These are then sold to traders who market them plain or fried. Around 60% of Lahrwalpora's population relies on chestnut extraction for their livelihood.

A winter essential

One of the standout qualities of Kashmiri water chestnuts is their ability to be preserved for later use. While fresh chestnuts are a summer delight, they are also dried and processed into flour, becoming a crucial staple during Kashmir’s long, harsh winters. This chestnut flour, valued for its nutritional benefits, helps sustain families when fresh produce is scarce.

Chestnut flour is a lifeline for many families here.

The chestnuts are first sun-dried, then ground into a fine powder. "In winter, we rely heavily on dried vegetables and grains we’ve stocked up during summer," said Mohd Sultan, another fisherman from Bandipora. "Chestnut flour is a lifeline for many families here. It’s filling, nutritious, and versatile, plus it has medicinal properties, which doctors often recommend to diabetic patients."

Water caltrops are also a popular street food in the valley, enjoyed especially during the evening. "I’ve been selling water caltrops on Srinagar’s streets for the past seven years. People love them," said Javaid Ahmad, a street vendor. "We sell them boiled with the kernels removed or fried–both are favorites."

Harvesting chestnuts

The journey of chestnuts from the waters of Wular Lake to Kashmir's markets is no easy task. Harvesting takes place twice a year, from June to September, when chestnuts begin to grow. During this period, the chestnuts are extracted with the floating plants. From December to February, the chestnuts are collected from the lake’s surface using paddles, after they turn black.

Many fisherwomen, like Asiya, row their traditional wooden boats on Wular Lake each morning, spending hours gathering chestnuts from the floating plants that form a natural carpet over the water. "After working the whole day, we collect 8-10 kg and earn 200-250 rupees, which isn’t much, but for uneducated girls like me, it’s better than sitting at home," Asiya said.

"The plants are beautiful, and we feel connected to the lake and nature," said Asiya. "But the work is tough. We’re out here for hours, and when winter comes, it gets even harder."

Peak season

The peak season for chestnut harvest runs from June to September, when fresh green chestnuts are at their best. During these months, demand in local markets skyrockets as residents stock up for both immediate consumption and the colder months ahead.

The chestnuts are in demand, but we don’t get much [money] for them.

Grown naturally without human interference, water chestnuts are a favorite for many. However, increasing demand has coincided with a drop in production, as Wular Lake’s water quality has deteriorated in recent years.

"The chestnuts are in demand, but we don’t get much for them," said Nazir Ahmad. "It’s a hard way to make a living, but it’s what we know. We take pride in providing this food to people."

Future of cultivation

In recent years, Wular Lake, the second-largest freshwater lake in Asia, has faced serious threats, including illegal encroachments, pollution and a shrinking surface area.

If the lake continues to shrink, we’ll lose not just the water chestnuts but our connection to Wular and our tradition.

Around 10,000 families depend on the lake for their livelihood, earning a living by extracting water chestnuts and fishing. Many are now concerned about the lake's shrinking size, with some turning to other jobs in local markets.

Every day, tonnes of garbage enter Wular Lake through nearby village streams and the Jhelum river, the lake's lifeline.

"If the lake continues to shrink, we’ll lose not just the water chestnuts but our connection to Wular and our tradition," said Ahmad. "The lake is our livelihood. We grew up on its banks and spent our childhood here. Now, seeing it shrink, it feels like we’re losing everything."

In recent years, the government has made efforts to restore the lake, but over the last seven to eight years, only a few kilometers have been restored by dredging sewage. Despite these challenges, Wular Lake remains the heart of water chestnut cultivation in Kashmir.
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“It felt as though the sea had come closer to our homes, flooding the villages, roads, and farms. No one expected the water to reach this far — all the way to the Eluru-Vijayawada road, part of National Highway 5 (NH-5)," said Gantasala Peddiraju, a 58-year-old aquaculture farmer.

Peddiraju lives in one of the 46 island villages within Kolleru Lake, the largest freshwater body in India and a designated RAMSAR site.

On September 6, the lake's water levels rose to 12 feet, with dangerous inflows of 25,000 to 30,000 cusecs from the upstream channels of Budameru, Ramileru, Tammileru, and Munneru.

Kolleru Lake has a natural capacity of only 10,000 cusecs and relies on a single outlet — the Upputeru channel — which connects the lake to the Bay of Bengal, flowing 63 kilometres through low-lying plains until it meets the sea.

For over a week, villagers were cut off and had to stay in temporary shelters arranged by the Andhra Pradesh government.

What haunts Peddiraju and many other aquaculture farmers is their loss: fish worth crores escaped into Kolleru Lake and ultimately the ocean, never to return. “Farmers who lost their livestock and paddy in the floods received compensation, as did those whose homes were submerged. But no one cared about us,” said Peddiraju. 

According to Nagalingachari, deputy director of the fisheries department, fishing within the 5-contour line of Kolleru Lake is illegal as the area is a designated wildlife sanctuary. Because these operations are illegal, they cannot receive compensation. Only six small fish tanks outside the 5-contour area have applied for and are eligible for compensation.

The question of what separates legal from illegal activities, and why aquaculture and shrimp farmers in the Kolleru Lake area cannot claim compensation, takes us back 50 years to the start of the Blue Revolution, which prioritised aquaculture at the expense of the environment.

The rise of aquaculture

Around 50 years ago, Peddiraju's family and others stood up against the Andhra Pradesh government's plan to switch from traditional farming to aquaculture as part of the Blue Revolution.

Kolleru Lake, a naturally formed wetland between the Godavari and Krishna river basins, serves as an irrigation source for farmers in 122 villages surrounding the sanctuary area (46 bed villages and 76 belt villages). Over three lakh people depend on this vital water body for their livelihoods.

The lake spans 225,250 acres up to the +10 ft contour line, while the Kolleru Wildlife Sanctuary, located within the +5 ft contour, covers 77,138 acres. Extending up to 20 kilometres around the lake, it functions as a bird sanctuary, providing habitat for over 189 species of birds, including painted storks, pelicans, and several rare and endangered species migrating from Eurasia.

The region’s high demand for fish, government subsidies, and the lake's naturally favourable conditions have transformed the fortunes of many locals. “Almost 98% of the carp culture in the state is developed in and around Kolleru Lake, which extends between the West Godavari and Krishna districts and is now recognised as the fish bowl of India,” stated a 2007 study.

However, this economic boom has taken a toll on the lake’s environmental health. By 2006, illegal fishing ponds had spread across the lake, with 1,776 tanks (1,140 in West Godavari and 636 in Krishna district) covering around 43,724 acres. These structures, both in and around Kolleru, have disrupted the lake’s natural habitat and altered its ecosystem.

Due to these concerns, the state government initiated Operation Kolleru in 2006 based on Supreme Court orders. “While the Supreme Court judgement called for rehabilitating aquaculture farmers before evicting them, the state government did not do so,” said Peddiraju.

Dr Tallavajhula Patanjali Sastri, who has fought a legal case to restore the lake for many years, described the entire eviction process as unscientific. He explained that instead of educating villagers about the Supreme Court’s orders, officials used explosives to destroy illegal fish ponds. “This made the villagers so angry that I was told not to visit the lake alone because of my involvement in the case. The village leaders are also using 'veli' (ostracism) to stop people from supporting our efforts to restore the lake,” Sastri added.

He also pointed out that evictions have only worsened the situation, with fish ponds in the sanctuary area now averaging between 50 and 100 acres. In a recent complaint to the NGT, Sastri noted that about 18,000 acres of the 77,138-acre sanctuary have been taken over by the construction of fish ponds, buildings and roads.

Political will

A recent report from the Ministry of Statistics and Programme Implementation (MOSPI) showed that Andhra Pradesh has the largest share of India's fishing and aquaculture sector, accounting for 40.9%. BV Seshagiri Rao, an environmental activist and former zoology lecturer at DNR College in Bhimavaram, pointed out that aquaculture around Kolleru Lake plays a significant role in this sector.

According to G.O.Ms.No.120 from October 4, 1999, a high court decision from July 30, 2001, and the Supreme Court's orders from April 2006, landowners can practise traditional farming without using pesticides or chemicals.

Turning land into fish ponds by building structures and using chemicals is harming the natural flow of water and affecting water quality. Politicians tend to prioritise profit over the environment. The local population of about three lakh villagers represents many votes, and the money made from the fish economy influences politics, making it less likely for politicians to follow environmental guidelines, he added.

Rao argued that while some villagers benefit, it’s misleading to think aquaculture has helped poor farmers. In reality, it mostly benefits wealthier farmers who act on behalf of others. Further, there is no formal evidence to support this, as most leasing agreements were made verbally in front of village elders.

The former principal secretary of the Andhra Pradesh government’s Environment, Forests, Science, and Technology Department expressed similar concerns to the Central Empowered Committee (CEC) set up by the Supreme Court in 2006. He stated that the rich and powerful have taken over commercial activities under the pretence of supporting the livelihoods of the poor. Instead of working to restore the lake to its former beauty, a significant resolution was passed in the Andhra Pradesh Legislative Assembly on September 4, 2008, during the Congress government.

The resolution urged the National Board of Wildlife, Government of India, and the Central Empowered Committee to reduce the boundary of the Kolleru Wildlife Sanctuary from the +5' contour (77,138 acres) to the +3' contour (33,750 acres) to address challenges faced by local farmers.

In response, the Government of India constituted a seven-member committee headed by Dr PA Azeez of the Salim Ali Centre for Ornithology and Natural History (SACON). However, the committee did not support the proposed reduction, as it would severely impact wildlife conservation, particularly the protection of migratory birds.

Despite this, efforts to reduce the sanctuary's size were revived under the NDA government led by TDP chief and then chief minister N Chandrababu Naidu. On December 23, 2014, the Andhra Pradesh Legislative Assembly passed a similar resolution to reduce the sanctuary’s boundaries.

The resolution stated that the state could not provide compensation for acquiring private lands and relocating affected families. Farmers claimed losses due to restrictions on chemical use. At this time, the union government stated that Compensatory Afforestation Management & Planning Agency (CAMPA) funds could not be used for acquiring private lands.

The Standing Committee subsequently formed a Working Group chaired by Prof R Sukumar, a representative from the Wildlife Institute of India, whose expertise lies mainly in elephant ecology and tropical forest ecology, not wetlands.

Although the Sukumar Committee also rejected the proposal to reduce the sanctuary’s size, it recommended the denotification of nearly 15,000 acres of Zeroyiti (private) lands and an additional 5,600 acres of D-pattas for aquaculture farming within the wildlife reserve.

“This undermined the entire argument for maintaining the free flow of water and the ecological health of Kolleru Lake, as it provides a backdoor entry,” said Sastri, who has challenged these recommendations.

Uncertain future

“Illegal farms do exist. This time, not just the low-lying areas or those in reserve areas have been affected; even the highway has been flooded. There are hundreds of legal farms adhering to environmental norms. Our losses run into crores. Isn’t it the government’s duty to compensate us?” asked J. Ramarao, a 73-year-old aquaculture farmer.

“The lake’s water is no longer suitable for agriculture. Sewer channels from many districts mix in Kolleru before draining into the Bay of Bengal,” he added.

Within the lake area, it is estimated that around 18,100 tons of chemical fertilisers and 1,600 tons of pesticides are used each year, with their residues flowing into the lake through 15 major drains, as found by Seshagiri Rao in his study on threats to Kolleru Lake.

The aquaculture has led to poorer water quality, encroachments, human activity, and poaching, said Sastri and Rao. The lake's natural water flow allows excess or floodwater to drain safely into the ocean through its only outlet, Upputeru. Activists warned that if restoration efforts are not properly monitored, they could create challenges for the surrounding areas.

The lake’s water is no longer suitable for agriculture. Sewer channels from many districts mix in Kolleru before draining into the Bay of Bengal.

Kolleru Lake is home to birds that travel from as far away as Europe and Asia. Some birds stop for a while and can’t return, while others come here to breed. Activists have pointed out that spot-billed pelicans, which used to number in the lakhs, have now dropped to just a few thousand. 

In the wake of the disaster, TDP chief, and chief minister Chandrababu Naidu, who once passed a resolution to downsize the lake, has issued a statement in the aftermath of the Budameru-induced floods in Vijayawada, acknowledging that encroachments from Vijayawada to Kolleru contributed to the floods. "The state will act tough against encroachers," Naidu said, promising stringent legislation to clear illegal settlements along the rivulets feeding into the lake.

Will this be a step toward Kolleru’s revival, or will exceptions be made for the encroachers in aquaculture farming? The answer seems uncertain.
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As Maharashtra prepares for its elections, the focus isn't just on who will win; it’s also on a crucial decision that could impact the state’s farmers. Deputy chief Minister Ajit Pawar has promised that a decision on raising the Minimum Support Price (MSP) for crops will come soon. This has farmers feeling both hopeful and worried, especially after the intense protests that rocked the nation not long ago.

Important political leaders, like India’s agriculture minister Shivraj Singh Chouhan, are talking with representatives from various farmers’ groups to establish a legal guarantee for MSP. Meanwhile, Gujarat’s agriculture minister Raghavji Patel announced that they will start buying groundnut, moong, urad, and soybean at the MSP from November 11. Despite these promises, the main concern remains: can farmers trust the government to ensure they receive a fair price in an industry that often leaves them in debt?

In June 2024, the centre raised the MSPs for all 14 crops by 1-13% as market proxies for agricultural produce surged due to inflation. Sakshee Jaimini, a development practitioner at the Revitalising Rainfed Agriculture Network, discussed the pain points in the current system and the need for a decentralised operating model. She said, “The farmers who are protesting want to decide the MSP themselves, like other products in the market. There is a disparity amongst the farming community.”

In a country where its largest sector struggles with low income and where many farmers are deep in debt, securing fair prices for produce is a fundamental challenge. Official data shows that the average monthly income of a farmer household was Rs 10,218 in 2019, with some states like Jharkhand, Odisha, and West Bengal reporting as low as Rs 4,800. 

Understanding MSP

MSP is the minimum rate at which farmers sell their produce to the government through mandis. Introduced in 1987, it protects farmers from market fluctuations and provides stability and income security. The Commission for Agricultural Costs and Prices (CACP) recommends the MSP based on various factors, with the Cabinet Committee on Economic Affairs, led by the prime minister, making the final decision.

The MSP is calculated using specific parameters, including A2, FL, and C2 costs. The A2 cost covers out-of-pocket expenses for farming, such as chemicals, fertilisers, seeds, hired labour, fuel, and irrigation.

The FL cost accounts for the unpaid labour provided by family members for activities like sowing, weeding, and harvesting. Together, A2 and FL costs represent the total production cost incurred by farmers.

C2 is the most comprehensive cost, factoring in A2 and FL costs alongside land rentals and interest on fixed assets like machinery, buildings, and equipment. Besides the operational costs, it also considers the cost of capital and land.

The CACP recommends the MSP by evaluating cultivation costs per hectare, production costs per quintal, market prices, production and labour costs, demand for the crop, per capita consumption, and industry trends. The government sets support prices at 1.5 times the production cost, ensuring farmers receive a minimum of 50% returns.

Farmers’ demands

In the light of large scale farmers agitation during 2020 and 2021, the India government withdrew the controversial agricultural bills.

Farmers –primarily from Punjab and Haryana–marched to Delhi to protest the opening of the sector to private players. They feared that corporate entry would reduce the government’s role in agriculture and lead to the withdrawal of MSPs.

Currently, there are MSPs for 22 commodities: seven cereals (paddy, wheat, maize, sorghum, pearl millet, barley, and finger millet), five pulses (gram, toor or pigeon peas, moong or green gram, urad or black lentil, lentil), seven oilseeds (groundnut, rapeseed-mustard, soybean, sesamum, sunflower, safflower, and niger), and three commercial crops (copra, cotton, and raw jute).

According to studies, only a small share of farmers in the country benefits from MSPs. Farmers have accused the government of delaying its commitments to address their demands, despite earlier promises made during the protests.

For the current season, the government has started procuring crops at the Minimum Support Price as it has done in the past. However, some farmer groups are still protesting because they feel that the government is not really listening to their concerns and addressing their demands properly.

The farmers' demands are not extreme or unreasonable; they have been getting the MSP for almost six decades now. All they want is for the government to be fair and give them a promised return on their crops.

Indian agriculture has long suffered from negative terms of trade. Instead of supporting farmers, the state policy of keeping food prices low imposes negative subsidies on them.

Millet challenges

The Food and Agriculture Organization (FAO) declared 2023 as the International Year of Millets, but millet farmers have yet to see the benefits. Jaimini, a millet farming specialist, said, “Even though there is MSP [for millets], there is no procurement because there are no support systems built for farmers to cultivate those crops.”

She pointed out that the Green Revolution historically favoured paddy over millets. “Even though the International Year of Millets [2023] happened, the overall development is low,” she added.

Last year, India’s finance minister Nirmala Sitharaman referred to millets as ‘Shree Anna’ in her budget speech. While promoting the nutritive value of millets led to a surge in their market and attracted start-ups, little has changed for farmers.

“Almost 70% of the money allotted to the Indian Institute of Millets Research was spent on building infrastructure for the research centre,” Jaimini said. Moreover, current research focuses on fortifying millets, which is unnecessary since they are already nutritious.

She worries that millets will face the same fate as paddy. “The institute will create certain seed varieties that will increase farmers’ dependency on them. On the other hand, market systems are so rigid regarding one colour, one shade, one taste that we cannot even brand different millet varieties,” said the Youth For India fellow.

Simply having an MSP will not resolve the issue, Jaimini said. “There is a systematic change and intervention that is required, like paddy, but not in a similar fashion.” She suggested focusing on increasing scale while building decentralised systems.

State intervention

The state actively intervenes to establish minimum wages and regulate maximum retail prices for consumer goods. One might reasonably ask: why not extend similar protections to farmers?

The MSP serves as a modest return for the systemic extraction farmers endure in the economy. The ongoing struggle for equal treatment has led farmer unions to demand not just survival but recognition and justice in a system that often overlooks their plight.
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