How water chestnuts keep Kashmiri families afloat

As the morning sun softly illuminates the rooftops in Lankrishpora, a village in North Kashmir's Bandipora district, a group of young girls rows their traditional wooden boats toward Wular Lake. Their mission: to extract water chestnuts from the lake's depths.

Among them is Asiya, a 26-year-old woman who steers her boat with others to the center of Wular Lake. She spends 5-6 hours each day harvesting water chestnuts, locally known as singhara or water caltrops. Her weathered hands reflect generations of tradition tied to this unique fruit.

For Asiya, who dropped out of school at sixteen, harvesting these chestnuts is more than just a livelihood–it’s a source of pride. "Girls like me do not go outside to work," she said. "This is what we do. My family depends on these chestnuts, and I feel proud to be part of that."

The edible gems 

In the Kashmir Valley, water chestnuts have long been a cherished staple. From June to September, this delicately flavored fruit becomes a key ingredient in local diets and a highlight of the region's food markets. For many, these chestnuts are a vital food source that defines their culinary traditions.

"In summer, the demand for fresh water chestnuts is much higher than in winter, when they are dried and sold to local traders," said Bashir Ahmad, a fisherman from Bandipora. "Every day, tens of thousands of kilograms of green water chestnuts are sold across Kashmir."

Boiled water chestnuts have a mild, slightly sweet flavor and a chewy texture, making them popular in local households. Often consumed plain, with just a pinch of salt added during boiling, they pair perfectly with namkeen tea.

"The fresh chestnuts are a perfect light snack with tea," said Fatima, a homemaker from Bandipora. "They’re not too heavy, and their mild sweetness complements the tea beautifully. We also dry them to make flour for winter."

In Lahrwalpora village, piles of raw chestnuts are a common sight on the porches of many homes. In the evenings, women and men sit together, boiling the chestnuts and removing their kernels. These are then sold to traders who market them plain or fried. Around 60% of Lahrwalpora's population relies on chestnut extraction for their livelihood.

A winter essential

One of the standout qualities of Kashmiri water chestnuts is their ability to be preserved for later use. While fresh chestnuts are a summer delight, they are also dried and processed into flour, becoming a crucial staple during Kashmir’s long, harsh winters. This chestnut flour, valued for its nutritional benefits, helps sustain families when fresh produce is scarce.

Chestnut flour is a lifeline for many families here.

The chestnuts are first sun-dried, then ground into a fine powder. "In winter, we rely heavily on dried vegetables and grains we’ve stocked up during summer," said Mohd Sultan, another fisherman from Bandipora. "Chestnut flour is a lifeline for many families here. It’s filling, nutritious, and versatile, plus it has medicinal properties, which doctors often recommend to diabetic patients."

Water caltrops are also a popular street food in the valley, enjoyed especially during the evening. "I’ve been selling water caltrops on Srinagar’s streets for the past seven years. People love them," said Javaid Ahmad, a street vendor. "We sell them boiled with the kernels removed or fried–both are favorites."

Harvesting chestnuts

The journey of chestnuts from the waters of Wular Lake to Kashmir's markets is no easy task. Harvesting takes place twice a year, from June to September, when chestnuts begin to grow. During this period, the chestnuts are extracted with the floating plants. From December to February, the chestnuts are collected from the lake’s surface using paddles, after they turn black.

Many fisherwomen, like Asiya, row their traditional wooden boats on Wular Lake each morning, spending hours gathering chestnuts from the floating plants that form a natural carpet over the water. "After working the whole day, we collect 8-10 kg and earn 200-250 rupees, which isn’t much, but for uneducated girls like me, it’s better than sitting at home," Asiya said.

"The plants are beautiful, and we feel connected to the lake and nature," said Asiya. "But the work is tough. We’re out here for hours, and when winter comes, it gets even harder."

Peak season

The peak season for chestnut harvest runs from June to September, when fresh green chestnuts are at their best. During these months, demand in local markets skyrockets as residents stock up for both immediate consumption and the colder months ahead.

The chestnuts are in demand, but we don’t get much [money] for them.

Grown naturally without human interference, water chestnuts are a favorite for many. However, increasing demand has coincided with a drop in production, as Wular Lake’s water quality has deteriorated in recent years.

"The chestnuts are in demand, but we don’t get much for them," said Nazir Ahmad. "It’s a hard way to make a living, but it’s what we know. We take pride in providing this food to people."

Future of cultivation

In recent years, Wular Lake, the second-largest freshwater lake in Asia, has faced serious threats, including illegal encroachments, pollution and a shrinking surface area.

If the lake continues to shrink, we’ll lose not just the water chestnuts but our connection to Wular and our tradition.

Around 10,000 families depend on the lake for their livelihood, earning a living by extracting water chestnuts and fishing. Many are now concerned about the lake's shrinking size, with some turning to other jobs in local markets.

Every day, tonnes of garbage enter Wular Lake through nearby village streams and the Jhelum river, the lake's lifeline.

"If the lake continues to shrink, we’ll lose not just the water chestnuts but our connection to Wular and our tradition," said Ahmad. "The lake is our livelihood. We grew up on its banks and spent our childhood here. Now, seeing it shrink, it feels like we’re losing everything."

In recent years, the government has made efforts to restore the lake, but over the last seven to eight years, only a few kilometers have been restored by dredging sewage. Despite these challenges, Wular Lake remains the heart of water chestnut cultivation in Kashmir.
{{quiz}}