Eat quinoa for breakfast, and you’re sorted for protein. Slather some avocado and a sunny-side up on warm toast, and you have an aesthetic picture ready for your social media. Top your strawberry shake with chia seeds and blueberries, and you’re halfway to your summer body.
The availability of ‘superfoods’ is a comforting thought. That you can load up your cart with a few ingredients which will multiply your antioxidant intake, lower your cholesterol, keep cancer at bay, and boost energy all at once. But beneath all those glossy promises lies a more complicated—and slightly disappointing—reality. Superfoods…might not even be real.
The big superfood boom
There’s no standardised definition for superfoods. Usually, an ingredient is promoted to superfood status when it has high levels of nutrients, is linked to disease prevention, and ostensibly offers extraordinary health benefits. Its inclusion in the Merriam-Webster Dictionary confirms how the term has made its way into our food lexicon. “A food (such as salmon, broccoli, or blueberries) that is rich in compounds (such as antioxidants, fibre, or fatty acids) considered beneficial to a person’s health.”Antioxidants, fibre, and fatty acids became sought-after in food after it was discovered that they play a significant role in heart health, and consequently, could help in increasing life expectancy.
The origins of the term, and how the humble banana became pedestalised, is telling of how superfoods continue to occupy an ambiguous space between science and advertising.
One of the first usages of the term “superfood” dates back to the early 20th century, around World War I. And it wasn’t food scientists or dieticians going gaga about discovering a mystical, miraculous ingredient. The United Fruit Company in the US started advertising bananas as ‘superfoods’ to profit from their massive banana imports. Their campaigns were a hit—they promoted bananas as cheap, nutritious, and versatile foods in a struggling economy. The term gained greater legitimacy after physicians started publishing their findings in medical journals. Soon, bananas were a dietary staple across the US.
The origins of the term, and how the humble banana became pedestalised, is telling of how superfoods continue to occupy an ambiguous space between science and advertising. There is no clear evidence that foods labelled as superfoods are any better than the locally grown and sourced produce that we consume as part of our everyday diets. In fact, the term ‘superfood’ is regulated in parts of the world like the European Union. Since July 2007, EU regulations have prohibited the marketing of products as "superfoods" unless accompanied by a specific, authorised health claim supported by credible scientific evidence. Food safety regulation and enforcement is often inconsistent in India. One consequence of this has meant that superfoods have become ‘super-business,’ as leading celebrity nutritionist Rujuta Diwekar puts it.
Part of what makes superfoods so tricky to understand is that food conglomerates sponsor research to promote particular foods. Unsurprisingly, industry-funded research tends to have results that favour the products they are marketing. Author of Food Politics: How the Food Industry Influences Nutrition and Health and Professor Emerita of Nutrition and Food Studies at New York University, Marion Nestle, found that of the 76 industry-funded studies she examined, the results of 70 favoured the sponsor’s product. “Popular claims such as grapes and walnuts are superfoods, wine has anti-ageing properties or that dark chocolate is good for your heart were found to have been funded by or its researchers closely associated with organisations such as Mars Inc., California Walnut Commission and even Coca-Cola in a particularly well-publicised research on obesity and healthy eating.”
Most conventional superfoods are also imported—kale, acai berries, avocado, seaweed, quinoa. These are branded as exotic and have a premium price tag, both of which point to the link between aspirational eating and upwards socio-economic mobility.
But it’s not just an industry conspiracy. Even independent studies on nutrition science examining how one superfood affects the body often don’t compare it to eating an ‘ordinary’ food which makes it hard to know how effective it really is, or if it actually has any special benefits in a larger context. Studies also often test ‘superfoods’ in unrealistically high amounts—like asking people to eat two cups of blueberries every day for a month to examine their impact on blood pressure. But real diets are far more varied – people eat a variety of fruits, vegetables, grains and processed foods every single day. This narrow focus of studies can therefore skew results and not reflect how people actually eat. In a way then, is nutrition science in itself being manufactured?
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The wellness economy and eating ‘right’
Through the ages, food advertisements have carefully monitored trends surrounding body image. In the 1980s, fat was the enemy—hundreds of products were posited as low-fat or fatfree. What labels didn’t mention was the extra sugar and additives used to make up for it. As sugar intake soared, so did health issues—and ‘sugar-free’ became the new buzzword. Superfoods are just the latest spin in this same cycle. With the ‘skinny trend’ being back and all over social media, people are looking for a magical cure—and superfoods are perfect to cater to this demand.
Mumbai-based gut microbiome specialist Munmun Ganeriwal says that clients have been curious about superfoods for about two decades, but there has been a shift in their objectives. “Earlier, people were more concerned with weight-loss and aesthetics. Post-pandemic, there has been a decided shift to improving energy, immunity and overall fitness.”
Superfoods are largely a metropolitan phenomenon. Their demand and consumption in India is mostly in large, urban cities. Most conventional superfoods are also imported—kale, acai berries, avocado, seaweed, quinoa. These are branded as exotic and have a premium price tag, both of which point to the link between aspirational eating and upwards socio-economic mobility.
Ingredients that have been staples of Indian kitchens are now suddenly labelled as a ‘superfood’ and pushed into a ‘superior’ category. In reality, any food that is good for health is a superfood. Moreover, the list of superfoods keeps changing. Ghee was considered a fattening agent and a deterrent for health until a few years ago. Now, it’s all the rage.
Food writer and Food And Beverage marketing specialist Kalyan Karmakar talks about how campaigns are strategically designed for the upper-middle class urban resident: “Most of these ads target the globalised, English-speaking consumer. They have greater purchasing power, and are a lot more likely to invest in health.” Health claims bump up these foods on their desired demographic’s radar—studies on consumer behavior show that people are willing to pay more money for foods they perceive as healthy and which have nutritional research backing them.
But it’s not just ‘exotic,’ imported products that are riding the superfood wave anymore. Foods like ghee, turmeric and moringa that are added to podi and khichdi, sprinkled into lukewarm milk, and stirred into aromatic sambar have been catapulted to superfood status in the last two decades.
“There is no fixed definition of superfood,” Ganeriwal says. “Ingredients that have been staples of Indian kitchens are now suddenly labelled as a ‘superfood’ and pushed into a ‘superior’ category. In reality, any food that is good for health is a superfood. Moreover, the list of superfoods keeps changing. Ghee was considered a fattening agent and a deterrent for health until a few years ago. Now, it’s all the rage.”
Ghee was considered a fattening agent and a deterrent for health until a few years ago. Now, it’s all the rage.If these ordinary ingredients have been part of our diet for generations, how do marketing campaigns elevate them into ‘superfoods’? “The idea is to take a food away from its natural form and transform it into a completely different product—like amla capsules, jamun supplements or moringa powder. You combine the aura that comes with labelling something as a ‘superfood’ by making functional claims like it being ‘reinforced’ or ‘concentrated’ that transport it beyond its original avatar,” Karmakar says.
This is also why capsules and supplements have skyrocketed in popularity. “People are short on time, and often cannot afford to cook a well-balanced meal. Supplements and capsules make you feel like you’re getting the benefits with minimal effort,” Chandigarh-based nutritionist Lavleen Kaur says. Celebrity endorsements and nutritionist-influencers on social media have only heightened the appeal of superfoods, reinforcing the belief that they’re a panacea for all health woes.
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Impact on local ecosystems and communities
In some cases, the rise of superfoods has opened up new opportunities for farmers. A boost in the demand for makhanas and moringa has encouraged next-generation farmers to continue in their profession. Hardy crops like quinoa and chia thrive in arid soils where little else can grow. In 2013, the United Nations declared it ‘The International Year of Quinoa’. By this time, the grain was already being imported by India, and –featuring on the shelves of gourmet grocery stores and in fine dining vegan menus. Then, in 2014, the Andhra Pradesh government launched Project Anantha, and distributed quinoa seeds to farmers in the region of Anantapur to revive agriculture in the drought-prone village.
Project Anantha flourished for a few years. Quinoa sold for Rs 70–90 per kilo from 2014-16. But by the end of 2017, quinoa was being grown over 350 acres as compared to the original experimental area of 50 acres. Moreover, Andhra Pradesh lost its sole-producer tag for quinoa and experimental trials started in Rajasthan as well. There was too much unplanned cultivation and production, and the state government had simply not invested in marketing as it had done in production. Superfoods were still largely a metropolitan phenomenon—there was just not as much demand. Quinoa prices crashed to Rs 10 per kg by 2018.
Hardy crops like quinoa and chia thrive in arid soils where little else can grow. Superfoods have affected local ecosystems in other ways, too. A growing appetite for imported foods in particular, has had wide implications across global agricultural landscapes. Once biodiverse plots are increasingly being replaced by monoculture plantations focused on a single ‘super’ crop. This shift has not only strained soil and water resources but also disrupted traditional farming systems and livelihoods.
“Growers have been cutting down swaths of forest to make room for more fruit trees in the state of Michoacan, Mexico, the world’s avocado capital. Today, avocados occupy approx. 340,000 acres of land.” Worse still, the humble avocado—once a staple on Mexican plates—has been priced out of reach for many, thanks to the sky-high demand outpacing supply and turning this everyday fruit into a luxury item for locals.
An increase in monoculture is just one unseen consequence of the global fad of superfoods. Indigenous Indian communities have always foraged in forests for sustenance. Health and wellness companies have suddenly ‘discovered’ the benefits of some of these wild, exotic ingredients and are pushing them as superfoods, pandering to the urban, elite consumer. This means that urban residents are increasingly competing with indigenous communities for food sources, with the latter having to sell what historically constituted their diet at throwaway prices and turning to less nutritious and non-traditional foods.
Building a ’super’ plate
To so brutally villainise superfoods would be to risk de-legitimising them completely. Superfoods ARE healthy foods. For instance, avocado is indeed loaded with healthy fats, and grapefruit is a great source of vitamin A and C, and most superfoods are high in antioxidants. However, many plant-based foods with colour have antioxidants. Staples like turmeric and carrot, containing curcumin and beta carotene respectively, both have antioxidant properties.
Kaur says, “I have poha with avocado and cucumber. Superfoods add variety and additional roughage to your plate. But if you’re drinking jeera/ajwain water, eating fruits, nuts and seeds, you don’t need to go out of your way to consume imported superfoods.” Ganeriwal adds, “There’s no harm in being curious about superfoods. But as regular, healthy people, not pursuing them is not going to make us deficient. You don’t need to fear ‘missing out’—and you definitely don’t need to chase Western superfoods”.
“The Indian plate is so wonderfully diverse, nuanced and seasonal,” the Mumbai-based dietician says. “Take gond (a crystalline herb acquired from the sap of the plant Locoweed)—this jelly-like substance cools your body in the summers and helps keep it warm in the winters.”
There’s no harm in being curious about superfoods. But as regular, healthy people, not pursuing them is not going to make us deficient.
Nutrition science is extraordinarily complex—and the truth is that no single food, no matter how rich in vitamins and antioxidants, can replace a balanced diet combined with regular exercise. “Any whole foods that are minimally processed are going to have a positive impact on your health,” Ganeriwal says. Conventional superfoods can also blind us to other ordinary foods that may be equally as nutritious and flavourful. These locally grown and sourced ingredients may be hiding in plain sight in our kitchens and markets.
Also read: Mindful eating: A wellness tool, or trendy byte?
Indian alternatives to imported superfoods
1. Kombucha vs Buttermilk
Kombucha may be in vogue for claims about its probiotic content. However, the standards for probiotic content in Kombucha are largely unregulated—allowing manufacturers to make unchecked claims. Buttermilk, on the other hand, is a gut-friendly, affordable, homemade alternative, minus the added sugars.
2. Quinoa vs Amaranth
Amaranth (Rajgira) packs more protein, magnesium, iron, and potassium than quinoa—and at a fraction of the cost. Being a local grain, it can be easily found in stores or even grown at home.
3. Kale vs Beet Greens
Kale is hyped as the nutritional powerhouse of all leafy vegetables. But beet greens, which are often discarded,are just as impactful. They’re low in calories, rich in vitamin E and potassium, and are far more accessible.
Beet greens, which are often discarded, are low in calories and rich in Vitamin E and potassium.4. Goji Berry vs Jamun
Goji berries may be trendy, but jamun is India’s original superberry. It boosts immunity, balances blood sugar, and is packed with iron, calcium, and vitamin C. Enjoy the tartness and remember the taste of childhood.
5. Matcha vs Moringa
Matcha might be the new, cool Japanese kid on the block, but moringa is desi and delivers more—30x the protein, 10x the fiber, and 100x the calcium, as celebrity nutritionist Pooja Makhija puts it. From leaves to seeds, it’s a super tree, not just a superfood.
What’s the bottom line? Beneath hyped-up health claims, expert nutrition advice hasn't changed much. "The basic principles of eating healthfully have remained remarkably consistent over the years," Nestle, who has researched extensively on the superfoods phenomenon, says. "Eat a wide variety of relatively unprocessed foods in reasonable amounts.” Take fads with a grain of salt and focus on balance—because good health can’t be contained in a buzzword.