Chitrakut district in Uttar Pradesh, renowned for its pilgrimage sites, has long been marked by severe exploitation in many villages. Over the past 40 years, significant progress has been made through a consistent initiative to distribute farmland to the poorest landless households, particularly from Kol tribal and Dalit communities.

Gaya Prasad Gopal, 85, who founded the voluntary organisation Akhil Bharatiya Samaj Sewa Sansthan (ABSSS) and led this initiative, recalls, “Most of the land was owned or encroached by large landlords. Landless Kols and Dalits laboured for minimal wages, often just a quarter kilogram of coarse grain. Many were bonded workers. Hunger was widespread, compounded by a shortage of drinking water.”

When ABSSS sought to free bonded workers, the administration initially denied their existence. Persistent advocacy led the state government to send experts from Lucknow, who identified 2,900 bonded workers in the Manikpur and Mau blocks, where ABSSS was active.

The administration then took action, though it was delayed, to release and help the bonded workers. ABSSS continued working diligently to make sure the government support reached the released workers.

Recovering land

Meanwhile, ABSSS found out many landless workers had been allocated 2 to 4 acres of land years earlier, but landlords had taken over this land. 

The activists worked hard to gather information on these land deals and encroachments. They then launched a campaign to recover the land from the landlords so that the poorest families could use it for farming. The activists, led by Gopal Bhai, faced not only powerful landlords but also dangerous dacoit gangs that threatened and harassed them.

By this time, the Kols and Dalits had become confident in the ABSSS’s commitment and quickly came together to safeguard their new opportunities. The ABSSS had also set up several informal schools, and as the students grew up, they and their teachers joined in the effort to protect their rights.

Many families felt a sense of pride as they began receiving official documents confirming their land rights. Despite issues with encroachers, most people who received these documents (Pattas) were eventually able to farm their land.

However, challenges persisted. Much of the land was difficult to cultivate, and a lack of irrigation was a significant problem for these new farmers.

Tackling water challenges

ABSSS addressed this by initiating water conservation and small irrigation projects, which later evolved into larger watershed programmes. As ABSSS built a reputation for effective, low-budget work, prominent organisations like NABARD, Tata Trust, Oxfam, and Action Aid supported their efforts. Bhagwat Prasad, then the young director of ABSSS, played a crucial role in enhancing their work's quality while keeping costs low. This earned ABSSS the prestigious FICCI award for their water conservation and watershed development work, particularly in Mangava panchayat.

The sudden death of Prasad from a heart attack was a major setback. Yet, his legacy of check dams, ponds, and soil conservation projects enabled many Kol and Dalit farmers to cultivate their land effectively.  For the first time, they could harvest crops from their own land and understand what food security means.

Land distribution 2.0

This success also raised the hopes of other landless individuals who had not yet received land. In response, a new campaign was launched, resulting in a second wave of land distribution that helped many more landless families obtain land. The work continued with renewed vigor, including creating layered vegetable gardens and digging water conservation pits or dohas. 

Because of these efforts, many Kol and Dalit families in villages like Mangava, Harijanpur, Itwan-Paatin, and Tikariya (Manikpur block) have successfully farmed their newly allocated land, thanks to minor irrigation and soil and water conservation projects.

Gopal Bhai says, “As a result of our direct efforts and our influence on some government initiatives, about 2,500 landless families were able to get land.”

He also mentions that while some farmers started using chemical fertilisers due to the availability of irrigation, ABSSS focused on promoting natural farming methods.

Continuing success

Food security improved with the planting of various native trees, especially fruit trees. ABSSS estimates that about 60,000 of these trees have survived.

The success, achieved in a challenging environment once controlled by large landowners and criminal gangs, was driven by community involvement. Participation in protest meetings, marches, and sit-ins was crucial. Women played a key role in these efforts, with activists like Booti, Sanjo, Kesar, and Urmila stepping up. Some of these women even ran for and won panchayat elections. This increased the community’s confidence in their ability to protect their land and rights.

Matadayal from Harijanpur village recalls the hunger his Dalit family endured in his childhood. The community's hope was rekindled first with land allotments and then with the creation of an irrigation pond. Today, most families successfully farm their land and enjoy a decent level of food security.

As Matadayal grew up, he became close to Gopal Bhai and eventually emerged as a well-known activist. Although he learned to read and write later in life, his involvement in struggles helped him develop skills in writing and performing struggle songs. Now, he is sought after for his inspirational songs, many of which he has composed himself. He continues to work to help landless families secure and protect their land rights.

Cautionary note

The experiences from these villages show the great potential of land reforms focused on providing land to the landless for improving sustainable livelihoods and food security. During multiple visits to these villages, I have seen the progress in food security. However, this success is overshadowed by a troubling trend. With some extra cash available and an increase in places selling liquor, tobacco (especially smokeless tobacco or gutkha), and junk food, health and nutrition are being negatively affected. As Gopal Bhai points out, “Nutrition and health improvements could have been much greater if it weren’t for this growing problem. We need to address this issue more seriously.”

When local authorities and real estate developers in Rajkot aimed to expand the city's green cover, Conocarpus seemed an ideal choice. Native to Africa, this tree was affordable, fast-growing—reaching up to 20 feet in just two years—and featured glossy leaves and vibrant flowers. It thrived in hot conditions, required minimal water, and could grow well using drainage and sewage water.

However, in late 2023, the Gujarat government banned the planting of Conocarpus in both forested and non-forested areas. In a circular dated September 26, SK Chaturvedi, principal chief conservator of forests, stressed the importance of controlling this “unfamiliar species”. Research had indicated that Conocarpus could cause respiratory problems due to its pollen, and damage infrastructure like telecommunication lines, drainage systems, and water supplies with its extensive root system.

It is not an isolated incident. In recent years, several states have taken measures to limit the spread of non-native plants. While Telangana has banned Conocarpus as well, states like Delhi, Karnataka, Punjab, Kerala, Rajasthan, Maharashtra, Sikkim and Tamil Nadu have targeted species such as Prosopis juliflora, Acacia tortilis, Acacia mearnsii, Gliricidia sepium, Chinese teak, Lantana camara, and eucalyptus, among others.

Going green

A common link among these species is their introduction through greening programs. For over 200 years, India has experimented with tree plantations, a practice that began in the mid-18th century during British rule. At the time, forest officials extensively planted European and North American pines in the Himalayan region, and introduced Australian acacia species. In Delhi, they planted Prosopis juliflora, while in Kerala, eucalyptus trees were introduced.

“They brought over 40 species to the Nilgiri plateau, including cinchona, eucalyptus, acacias, pines, and Cedrus deodara," says Rajat Nayak from the Foundation for Ecological Research Advocacy and Learning (FERAL).

The introduction and planting of these species continued under various forestry programs, even after the end of British rule. "Non-native species were often used in greening programs, particularly in arid regions," says Chetan Misher, a biologist at the Ashoka Trust for Research in Ecology and the Environment. For instance, in the 1950s, river damming increased soil salinity in Gujarat’s Banni grasslands. To combat this, Prosopis juliflora, a salt-tolerant tree from South America, was introduced in the 1960s.

Even recent government initiatives, such as the National Agroforestry Policy (2014) and the National Mission for a Green India, continued to introduce fast-growing exotic species like eucalyptus and exotic poplars. Other species, like Lantana camara, were introduced for beautification.

While these trees were meant to combat climate change and increase green cover, they instead dominated ecosystems, often to the detriment of native biodiversity. In other words: they became invasive.

Invasive growth

The International Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN), an international organisation working in the field of nature conservation and sustainable use of natural resources, lists invasive alien species (IAS) as non-native organisms that pose a threat to biodiversity, ecosystem services, or human well-being. A 2022 study published in Biological Invasions reveals that India is home to more than 2,000 alien species. Further, in 2023, when scientists from India and six other countries compiled an inventory of plants introduced in South Asian countries that have become IAS, the country topped the list with 185 such plant species.

Among them is the notorious Lantana camara, which finds a mention among 100 of the World's Worst Invasive Alien Species. It alone has invaded 44% of India’s forests, threatening tiger habitats, competing with native flora, and reducing available foliage for herbivores. Similarly, more than 50% of Gujarat’s Banni grasslands have transformed from grassy plains into dense, woody thickets dominated by Prosopis juliflora. Invasive alien species like eucalyptus, acacia, Lantana camara and Senna spectabilis have also reduced food availability in forests, pushing wildlife into human settlements and farmlands.

It’s resulted in a sharp rise in human-wildlife conflict. In Kerala, for instance, according to the forest department data, there were 7966 wildlife attacks in 2021-22. Most of these conflicts were with farmers living near forested areas. Almost every district in the state has reported such incidents.

Invasive species also contribute to the spread of wildfires, hinder the regeneration of native flora, and deplete resources essential to local communities. They are more adaptable and capable of thriving in diverse environments, making them better suited to cope with the effects of climate change. “While there are no precise estimates of the total area impacted by IAS, they tend to thrive in areas that offer a combination of sunlight and moisture,” says Karuna Jha, a conservationist focused on forest preservation in Jharkhand.

Findings reveal that invasive species increase water loss through transpiration, which reduces stream flows and affects water availability for drinking and power generation, especially during dry periods.

Ultimately, their spread can significantly reduce native biodiversity. For example, the unique montane grasslands of the Nilgiris, home to endemic species like the Nilgiri Tahr and Nilgiri Pipit, face a serious conservation threat due to these invasives. In Kerala, the elephant population has shrunk to 2,386 in 2023, a decline of 58.19% compared to the elephant count of 5,706 in 2017, as per data released by the state forest department. Experts believe that invasive plants have a role to play in this decline.

Researchers have also been studying the effects of invasive species on the hydrological and nutrient cycles in the Upper Nilgiris. “Their findings reveal that invasive species increase water loss through transpiration, which reduces stream flows and affects water availability for drinking and power generation, especially during dry periods. Additionally, they’ve found that areas invaded by woody plants face increased flood risks due to reduced water retention and higher runoff during heavy rains, along with greater phosphate and nitrate outflows,” says Nayak.

Removing root and stem‍

Yet, despite the widespread presence of invasive plants, their economic impact remains vastly under-researched in India compared to that of invasive animals. But it will be profound. A 2022 study by Bang and colleagues estimated that India had incurred $127 billion in damages over the last six decades due to the cost of managing invasive alien species, averaging $2-3 billion annually.

Which means that preventing the spread of invasive species is the most effective and cost-efficient strategy for management—though easier said than done. India, a signatory to the Bonn Challenge, has committed to restoring 26 million hectares of degraded land by 2030. It needs data validation. “To identify a forest in a 30-by-30-pixel satellite image, sufficient tree cover on the ground is necessary. This requires planting trees more densely than the natural 10-40% canopy cover. Only fast-growing species like teak, eucalyptus, and bamboo can grow quickly enough to be detected by satellite," says Jha.

Reports like the India State of Forest Report (ISFR) 2021, which indicate an increase in India's tree and forest cover, often count areas dominated by invasive species as “forest cover”. This can distort perceptions of the country's ecological health.

Still, it’s not yet a lost cause. Some states have begun to address the issue. In 2023, New Delhi’s forest and wildlife department issued a tender to eradicate both Prosopis juliflora and Lantana camara from a 132-hectare area in the southern ridge. Kerala's 2021 Ecorestoration Policy states that "plants like Lantana, Mikania, and Senna, which are not suitable for our environment and are adversely affecting the habitats, will be removed on a war-footing, and soil and water conservation measures shall be taken up to aid the growth of native indigenous plant species”.

And following an order from the Madras High Court, the Tamil Nadu Government released a draft policy on the "control and removal of invasive alien plant species and restoration of habitats." This policy emphasises removing invasive species and restoring grasslands in the Nilgiris and Palani Hills, with a strong focus on scientifically monitoring outcomes.

We need to move from 'reforestation' to 'ecosystem restoration’.

"Currently, efforts to remove acacia, which thrive in the area, involve cutting the trees at ground level," says Mohan Kumar, a farmer from the Niligiri district, "but this method is ineffective as acacia coppices easily and has a large seed bank in the soil that germinates readily after rainfall. More research is needed to develop better removal practices and to address related issues like soil erosion and sediment outflows.”

Ultimately, Misher emphasises that a paradigm shift in policy is the need of the hour: “We need to move from 'reforestation' to 'ecosystem restoration’. Planting trees in grasslands and deserts is not reforestation; it's the degradation of these ecosystems. It's crucial to recognise the value of diverse ecosystems, like deserts and grasslands, and prioritise restoring them rather than blanket afforestation."

Gowramma’s story is grounded in the land she tends. She’s seen firsthand how the land changes with the climate, the culture, and the relentless push toward unsustainable agriculture. 

She speaks with the confidence of someone who’s been through tough times and emerged even stronger. Her philosophy is simple: care for the cow, care for the earth, and the rest will follow.

For Gowramma, farming is about more than just yield; it’s about health, empowerment, and reconnecting with nature, something she passionately believes the world desperately needs.

In this candid interview, she shares her insights, hardships, and hard-earned wisdom on organic farming, the role of women in agriculture, and the urgent need to protect our earth.

Hardships and learnings

How did it all start?

We started growing greens, and they turned out well, so we shared them with family. Then I thought, why not take it further? We cleared out the grapes and slowly began growing different things. In 2018, Spudnik came. We learned about desi (local) breeds and others, and that’s when we realised just how important our health is.

As a woman, what hardships did you face when you initially?
In the beginning, it was nothing but hardships. We only had one borewell with just an inch of water, making things extremely difficult (tears up).

Our children were small, the yield was small, and I didn’t know what to do. But the Kisan Sangh gave me confidence and guidance. They supported me when my family was hesitant, and my friends and the Sangh stood by me like a mother. I can’t forget them.

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Do you think women should pursue organic farming? What are the benefits of rearing animals in this process?
If you want to do organic farming, you must have animals. The desi cow is like a urea bank. You need animals like dogs, chickens, sheep, and goats to produce Jeevanmrutha. In just 1 kg of cow dung, there are millions of microorganisms. Take care of the cow, and you won’t even need to go for walks. Farmers should always be in aarmba (X), shouldn’t have muktaya (X).

Cow urine, or gomutra, is essential. I drink a little every morning for kashayam. Cow dung is vital for Jeevanmrutha, manure, earthworm pits, and even cleaning the yard. Without cows, we can’t sustain the earth. We’re losing local cow breeds, just like we’re losing traditional rice varieties. HF cows are useless. We need desi cows to help the earth.

All about farming

What do you grow on your land, and why?
I sometimes have 10 to 50 plants. Growing only one or two crops leads to losses. We’ve grown bottle gourd with chilli underneath and greens, too. Multi-cropping increases profit, though it requires more work. But I’d rather work 6 hours in the field than 12 in an office. 

How do you protect your crops, and how important is that in organic farming?
If a human dies, they return to the earth. If we ruin the earth, will humans survive? We need to care for the earth. Whatever I grow, we eat first. Farmers are crucial to the nation, and we should feed poison-free food to society. All children are our children, so I don’t feed poison.

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What methods do you use to save the soil?
We use earthworm manure, banana and jaggery spray, and Jeevanmrutha. I prepare everything – 1 kg of organic jaggery, 2 litres of buttermilk, mixed with curd. After 40 days, the concoction is ready for use.

Can a small-scale farmer be self-sustaining with organic methods? How can they pass this knowledge to the next generation?
It’s not about how much land you have; be grateful for what you’ve got and cultivate it. Mother Earth will give you what you need. Even with half an acre, you can survive.  Four gunthas (x)is also enough.

Did our ancestors use chemicals? Pesticide companies converted us. Our grandfathers raised many children without these things – why can’t we?

What other organic practices do you use?
The soil needs to be prepared. If the earth is ready, everything else falls into place. We mix 10 kg of mud with 5 litres of milk and spray it for 10 days—that’s enough.

Climate change is a big issue today. What changes have you seen, and what problems do farmers face?
People have ruined the climate, not the gods. There are no trees anymore because we’ve cut them down. Instead of blaming the climate, we should plant trees. In our land, the earth is still fine, but it’s getting hotter. We need to create a good climate by planting trees, which will also prevent diseases.

Advice to farmers

What advice do you have for future generations?
We need to teach the next generation by getting them involved in fieldwork. If we don’t, they’ll become lazy. Just like a plant needs to bend to grow, they need to learn the value of hard work and not get too comfortable. Along with their studies, they should also learn hands-on skills. Kids today are sharp, so they can pick things up quickly.

How do you see women’s empowerment in farming? How have you progressed, and what can other women learn?
At first, I depended on my husband for everything. But now I do things myself. Women should spend time on their land instead of watching TV. We’re powerful and capable of being self-sufficient. We shouldn’t depend on men for everything. I decided to go organic even when others didn’t. My husband used to say I ruined him, but I don’t care—I tell him, “This is who I am.” I’m healthier now, I’ve lost weight, and my eyesight has improved. My mother is 95 years old and still active. Why can’t we do the same? We need to teach our children to work hard.

Can you share your thoughts on organic farming?
Organic farming is essential for our health. We need to reflect on where we went wrong and reconnect with nature. Why wouldn’t you get a good yield if you work hard? Good health doesn’t just happen—you need to take responsibility for it. Society needs to change its mindset.

Farmer's Share, located on the banks of Nila River in Shoranur, Kerala, is more than a farm – it's a working example of how people and nature can live in harmony. Started in 2017 on a 10-acre leased plot, this space has become a hub for permaculture and traditional crafts.

Here Ambrose Kooliyath, his wife Mini Elizabeth, and their two sons, Amal and Akhil are quietly working towards their dream of creating a self-sustaining community by practising different crafts like hand spinning, weaving, natural dyeing, pottery, architecture, papermaking, soap making, food processing and baking.

Ambrose, who served as the Ernakulam district secretary of Gandhi Yuva Mandal, was instrumental in the Swasraya Vypin initiative, which aimed to make the island of Vypin self-reliant. Following this, he and his associates founded "Grasshopper," a naturopathy restaurant in Ernakulam. Ambrose's journey then led him to Bangalore, where he launched the Lumière Organic Project. It was during this period that he, along with like-minded individuals, established Farmer's Share in Shoranur.

‍Gram Swaraj

Farmer’s Share is a trust that includes a variety of individuals with different backgrounds and skills including Manoj IB, an environmental activist; Sachu Muralidharan, who focuses on mindfulness practices; Meera, who works with nature; Kavya George, who runs the handmade paper-making unit of Farmer’s Share; and Rashid Ahmed and Sasi Memuri, who are both artists.

The collective is grounded in the principles of Gram Swaraj, a concept that advocates for the self-reliance of villages and localities in governance, livelihoods, and the production and distribution of resources. The collective constantly experiments with new ideas to support eco-friendly living.

There is a danger that looms over every society. We’ve lost the education that instils responsibility towards local resources

“As a collective, we strive to make products that add value to our social lives,” says Ambrose Kooliyath. “The quality of a product depends on the producer’s understanding of social, economic, and environmental issues. Our vision is a self-sufficient society built on meaningful transactions and ready for positive change.”

Ambrose believes the society has become too disconnected from local resources with the rise of the monetary system. “There is a danger that looms over every society. We’ve lost the education that instils responsibility towards local resources,” he says.

“Money doesn’t provide security – it’s a misconception. Happiness comes from limited consumption, and despite the challenges, I believe it’s possible to turn a village into a self-sufficient community where people control their own lives.”

Value-added products

Today, many farmers struggle because they can't control the prices of their crops. But by making value-added products, they can set their own prices and gain some financial stability.

"I’ve been working with Farmer’s Share since its early days. Ambrose asked for a range of crops like ginger, turmeric, pepper, yam, banana, mango, and jackfruit. Now we’re also growing hibiscus and butterfly pea to meet their needs. I get much better prices for my products than I would in the regular market, and sometimes we trade goods instead of money. If every village had a project like Farmer’s Share, farmers like me could lead more dignified lives," says Paul KJ, an organic farmer from Kolezhi, Thrissur.

In India, there are countless opportunities to create value-added products. For instance, fruits that are often wasted could be turned into wine with 2-3% natural alcohol. Unfortunately, state governments often stop these efforts by citing current laws.

‍Innovations

Farmer’s Share offers a diverse range of (around 50) food products, including value-added items made from hibiscus and butterfly pea flowers. These plants are not only easy to cultivate but also require minimal water. With a lifespan of three to four years, they provide a reliable and sustainable source of income for farmers.

Both hibiscus and butterfly pea flowers are used to create sarbath. Unlike the synthetic options available in the market, Farmer’s Share offers two natural varieties of sarbath made from these flowers. The drinks come in vibrant red and blue, blended with Naruneendi (Indian Sarsaparilla) and sweetened with palm jaggery, making them healthier and more natural.

The white and blue varieties of butterfly pea flowers and hibiscus are used to make jam and tea pellets. The jam is made by mixing the flowers with pulped white gourd. Tea pellets come in nearly seven flavours, including cinnamon, cardamom, dried ginger, and mint. They have also experimented with incorporating drumstick leaves into the tea pellets and exploring the use of pollen in cookies and soap. Another unique product is honey infused with the essence of these flowers.

Seasonal fruits like mango and jackfruit, as well as vegetables and yam, are transformed into various products using coconut vinegar.

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Health benefits

Hibiscus is packed with vitamin C and supports your immune system. It aids digestion, helps restore balance, and has anti-aging benefits. In Ayurvedic medicine, butterfly pea is valued for its ability to boost memory, reduce stress, and act as a natural antidepressant. Its high antioxidant levels help fight fatigue and energise you.

"I have been using Farmer’s Share products such as hibiscus tea, hibiscus jam, coconut vinegar, turmeric pickle, orange vinegar, and Shankupushpam-Nannari concentrate for over four years. I believe the secret to their incredible taste lies in the way they are processed, with complete dedication and a genuine desire to create the best. The hibiscus tea, in particular, is incredibly refreshing for both my mind and body," says Satish CJ, a retired KSEB engineer from Ernakulam.

‍Sustainable model

Ambrose believes farmers can easily market their value-added products independently, setting their own prices. These products can be made manually, requiring minimal technology investment, which makes them an accessible option for farmers looking for sustainable livelihoods. Initially, Farmer’s Share relied on exhibitions for marketing, but they have now moved to online platforms to save on the high costs of physical events.

I don’t want to develop a centralised system that relies on external resources; we cultivate the flowers we need on our own premises

“People visit us and get inspired, but instead of producing their own value-added products, they ask if I could buy their flowers. They are not interested in the production process. I am not focused on the exponential growth of this enterprise but would rather see small groups engage in similar activities to support their lives. We can provide the knowledge for others to produce value-added products from their harvests, allowing them to create their own unique blends and flavours. I don’t want to develop a centralised system that relies on external resources; we cultivate the flowers we need on our own premises,” says Ambrose.

Processing

After harvesting, the flowers are dried in a dryer for about two days. Sun drying is avoided to keep their vibrant colour. To prevent hibiscus flowers from fading, they are sprayed with lemon juice. Once dried, the flowers can be stored for up to six months before being turned into final products.

The dried flowers are then ground into powder to make tea pellets. For sarbath, a herbal decoction is prepared, and the necessary flavours are added.

The final products are packaged in glass bottles. However, there are challenges due to the lack of suitable glass bottles and caps for canning without preservatives. Many bottle tops do not meet the required standards, which increases the risk of water or air entering the bottles during canning, potentially causing spoilage before the expiration date. This issue can affect marketing, as complaints about a few defective bottles might lead to concerns about the quality of the entire batch.

‍No patent

‍Farmer’s Share is a movement towards a more sustainable and thoughtful way of living. By producing value-added products, the collective empowers farmers to set their own prices and reduces their dependence on fluctuating markets.

I have not sought a patent for my innovations, nor do I see the need for one. I believe that knowledge should be freely shared, not restricted by patents, which I consider a form of injustice

"Arangottukara Krishi Patashala and Farmer’s Share have had a long-standing relationship, exchanging products and services. Farmer’s Share takes rice, ragi, and fruits from us, and we, in turn, purchase their vibrant, flavorful, and aromatic products. I believe the quality of these products reflects the values held by the producers. We are happy to sell our produce to someone who truly cares about human well-being and the sustainability of nature. What makes the relationship special is not just the eco-friendly products, but also the simple and transparent atmosphere of the centre. Occasionally, we are even invited to organise cultural programs and theatre performances," says KV Sreeja, who is part of the Patashala near Pattambi.

And with its commitment to eco-friendly practices, Farmer’s Share is helping shape a future where small, self-sustaining communities can thrive. “I believe human beings can learn from their mistakes and return to the right path. Humans are creatures of hope and optimism, capable of creating a new world order through conviction and clarity,” says Ambrose.

“I have not sought a patent for my innovations, nor do I see the need for one. I believe that knowledge should be freely shared, not restricted by patents, which I consider a form of injustice,” he adds.

Javaid Ahmad Dar, 55, an apple farmer from Reshipora in Kashmir's Shopian district, switched his entire orchard to a different apple variety a few years ago. Like many apple growers in the valley, he replaced the traditional Delicious apples with a newer type, called High-Density apples. Two varieties, Italy and Red Gala, are becoming especially popular.

Javaid believes that in this business, it's more important to focus on what consumers want than on which apples are technically better. He said, "Italy (new variety) apples have bright colors and large sizes, which attract more buyers." That's why he decided to replace his old apple trees with these newer, trendier varieties.

It’s all about optics

Apple farming is a key industry in Kashmir, preferred over other crops. Kashmir produces about 1.7 million metric tonnes of apples and contributes 75% of India's total apple production, with exports reaching 1.8 million metric tonnes annually.

Most farmers in Kashmir grow Delicious apples, known for their dull red-green skin and a sweet-sour, crisp taste. However, buyers prefer apples with brighter colours, which is why many growers have switched to high-density varieties like Italy and Red Gala. These types are red but have a bland taste and lower nutritional value.

Like many farmers, Javaid Ahmad’s choice paid off financially. “For 11 years, my traditional apple orchard only produced 2 tonnes of apples. But after just one year of switching to the Italian variety, we made a profit of 1 lakh,” he shared.

Our Delicious apples taste much better, but buyers only care about the colour, not the flavour

Shabir Ahmad, a 52-year-old farmer from Pulwama, 35 km south of Srinagar, also replaced his old trees with Italian apples for better earnings. “Our Delicious apples taste much better, but buyers only care about the colour, not the flavour,” Shabir said.

Low maintenance

Another reason for the shift is the advantages of the new apple varieties. They produce higher yields with less effort and are more resistant to pests. These trees are easier to manage and give a much larger harvest compared to traditional ones. Plus, they’re ready for harvest almost a month earlier.

“The new varieties are easy to grow, cost less to maintain, and harvesting is much less work than with the older types. Most importantly, market demand is higher, and profits are much better,” Shabir said.

Financially, there's no comparison between the two. Demand for traditional apples has dropped while supply has increased. 

Ayaz Mir, an apple farmer from Wangam, 18 km from the Anantnag district in Kashmir, recently switched to Italy apples. “We used to get Rs 900 to 1,200 per box of Delicious apples, but now it’s selling for just Rs 600 to 700. That’s a poor return for such a product,” he said. However, Italy and Red Gala apples are different – their boxes sell for nearly double.

Ornamental value

Experts believe the fruit market today is all about appearance.

“As buyers, people are drawn first to colour and size. Taste and nutrition come second, especially in Asia. That’s where the new high-density apple varieties outshine traditional Kashmiri apples. Kashmiri varieties are harvested later, have less vibrant colour, and face growth and yield issues. In contrast, the high-yield Italy apples are self-pollinating, harvested earlier, have better size, colour, and disease resistance, making them more cost-effective,” said Inaam Mir, 32, founder of The Garden Guardians, a horticulture consultancy. He added that these changes are necessary for farmers to stay competitive.

While Italy and Red Gala apples have a shorter lifespan, they produce 5-6 times more than traditional varieties. This allows farmers to earn much more in a shorter period with less effort. Inaam explained, “High-density apple trees can be planted at 166 trees per hectare, compared to just 10 traditional trees. So, even if prices drop, the higher production ensures farmers still make a profit.”

Mohd. Younis Dar, manager of the only cold store in Anantnag, said the main reason farmers are switching to new varieties like Italy and Red Gala is that they start producing fruit within two years of planting. 

“The demand for Red Gala and Italy apples is growing each year,” he said. “In 2019, we received around 20,000 high-density boxes, in 2020 it jumped to 100,000, in 2021 and 2022 we got over 150,000 boxes, and in 2023, more than 250,000. This clearly shows that high-density varieties are gaining popularity.”

Threat to tradition

One of the biggest and long-lasting impacts of the shift to new apple varieties could be the disappearance of native Kashmiri types like Ambri and Maharaji. These apples, known for their unique fragrance and taste, are almost no longer grown because they require a lot of care and aren't financially viable. This sudden switch to new varieties could lead to their extinction.

"Kashmiri Ambri is on the verge of extinction. We rarely see it anymore, and we Kashmiris had a deep connection to it. It’s one of the tastiest apples in the world, and we should never lose it. But with the rise of new varieties, reviving it is becoming harder,” said Dr Tariq, a well-known plant pathologist and professor at SKAUST, Kashmir’s leading agricultural university.

Ayaz Mir also emphasised the need to preserve these native apples. “If new varieties replace our traditional orchards, the value of Kashmiri apples will decline. Our identity is tied to our traditional apples, and we must protect them at all costs," he said.

These apples, with their distinct traits, aren’t grown anywhere else in the world. If they go extinct, the world will lose some of the most unique apples, known for their fragrance, taste, and nutritional value.

If new varieties replace our traditional orchards, the value of Kashmiri apples will decline. Our identity is tied to our traditional apples, and we must protect them at all costs

The main challenge with growing these native varieties is the amount of care they require. They’re prone to disease, have low yields, and take about six years to bear fruit, compared to two or three years for hybrid types. This makes them less attractive to farmers. On top of that, there’s low demand due to their less vibrant colour.

Nutritional value

While the new apple varieties look appealing, are easier to grow, and bring in more profit for farmers, experts warn that switching from traditional types could significantly reduce nutritional value. Red Delicious apples, for instance, are much more nutritious, offering 8% more protein, 9.09% more phosphorus, 1.67 times more lipids, 0.92g less sucrose, 1.96 times more vitamin A (IU), 28.57% more copper, and three times more vitamin A (RAE) per 100 grams compared to Red Gala and Italy apples.

"Delicious apples are undoubtedly more nutrient-rich and healthier," said Dr. Tariq. "If given the option, people should choose this variety over Italy and Red Gala because of its superior nutritional value," he added.

Future concerns

While switching from Delicious to Italy apples is more profitable and easier for farmers, it could cause problems in the long run. Experts and farmers worry that large-scale conversion to Italy could eventually harm the region's apple industry. A massive supply of these apples could drive down prices, making them less profitable. "There's no doubt that the demand and prices for the new variety are high right now, but what happens in 10-12 years? As these high-density varieties become more common, prices will drop because supply will increase while demand stays the same," said Ayaz. He added, "People will realise these apples only have colour, not taste, and will start seeking out more flavorful and nutritious apples like Delicious."

Dr. Tariq emphasised the need for balance between traditional and new varieties to maintain the long-term health of the apple sector. He believes it's crucial not only financially but also for production stability. "I recommend keeping a 60:40 ratio of new to traditional apples. If high-density varieties completely replace the traditional ones and, God forbid, there’s a disease outbreak, it could devastate the industry, as some diseases target specific types. That’s why diversity is key," he said.

Om Prakash and Premkali, landless workers in the dalit hamlet of Mohatra (Banda district, Uttar Pradesh) were becoming increasingly tense as food stocks dwindled rapidly and moneylenders harassed them for repaying loans. Their biggest worry was how to feed their three young children.

Like many other Dalits in their village and nearby areas, they accepted an advance from a labour contractor and ended up working at a distant brick kiln in Gwalior, bringing their children along.

At the brick kiln, Prakash and Kali worked tirelessly, but things took a turn when Prakash fell ill. As his condition worsened, the owner told the whole family to leave immediately. In the scorching heat of May, Premkali somehow managed to get a rickshaw to take all five of them to the Gwalior railway station, but Om Prakash died on the way. On finding her crying uncontrollably, some railway and police officials arranged for them to be sent to their village with the dead body.

Now back in the village, Premkali has no idea how she'll raise her children. All the families there are landless, with limited employment opportunities locally – and even those pay very little. As a result, many are forced to migrate to distant places, often facing unsafe and exploitative working conditions.

Worker’s plight

Delhi is a major destination for migrant workers. At various labour chowks, workers gather to find daily wage jobs. Talking to some of them, I learned that newer migrants often live together in rented rooms and don't have access to subsidised food or other benefits available to most city residents. When I asked why they have not made use of the government's recent decision to make village ration cards operational in cities too, they said that this may exist on paper, but ration dealers do not accept this.

Things got worse for these migrant workers when the lockdown was announced during the pandemic. With no food reserves and no money for rent, they were forced to walk hundreds of miles back to their villages.

Pappu from Naugawa said he walked about 800 km from Surat to his village in Banda district. He reached here in 26 days, then spent another 15 miserable days in quarantine. Bhaiyaram Lakshman, from the same village, walked from Hyderabad but managed to get some lifts along the way, reaching home in 15 days with swollen, blistered feet. Karim Chacha said his four sons, who worked in Hyderabad, walked the entire way back to the village. During quarantine, these workers had to be fed by their families, even though their families were already struggling with hunger themselves.

Community support

In Bhanwarpur village, Butu broke down as he talked about the struggles his three sons faced walking all the way from Delhi with a larger group. I also met some families, including young children, who had walked about 500 km from Delhi, occasionally getting lifts along the way.

Their hardships were eased somewhat by food and other supplies provided by a voluntary group, Vidyadham Samiti (VDS). This organisation also helped some of the migrant workers return to farming their small, neglected plots. In an inspiring effort, around 50 Dalits from Bhanwarpur, including many women, formed a committee to partially revive a small river, improving farming opportunities and increasing crop yields.

While supporting these efforts, VDS has also called for better implementation of rural employment programs under NREGA, so that even landless workers have better chances of survival in their villages.

As Raja Bhaiya, the coordinator of VDS, says, "Migration will still happen, but we can work to make sure people aren't so helpless that they have to accept any kind of exploitation. With better farming, kitchen gardens, land for the landless, water conservation, and improved implementation of NREGA and other government programs, we should ensure that people won't go hungry, even if they stay in their village. This will improve their terms even when they go out for work."

Forced migration

In other words, workers shouldn't be forced to migrate due to poverty and hunger, which pushes them into accepting exploitative conditions. But right now, many villages face this harsh reality. One particularly heartbreaking story I heard during a drought was about a woman who didn't want to leave with her husband because their young daughter was very sick. However, her husband convinced her, saying they had to go or they'd have no food. She reluctantly agreed, holding her baby close. Sadly, just a few miles into their bus journey, the baby passed away, and the couple had to return to arrange the funeral.

Extreme hunger and deprivation, worsened by frequent droughts, hailstorms, floods, and other disasters linked to climate change, must be addressed. To fix this, we need programs focused on justice and equality. Unfortunately, land reforms and distributing land to the landless have been almost forgotten. There's plenty of land that could be given to the landless simply by removing illegal encroachments by powerful people, but this has been ignored. In addition, of course, protection measures for migrant workers should be better implemented.

Worker protection

At a recent meeting of Chingari, a leading women's organisation in Banda district and nearby areas, women from poor rural households strongly demanded that the local labour department register all outgoing workers. They called for a system that helps workers facing exploitation or bondage in distant places by providing assistance, including rescue operations. Helplines and similar services could be set up, as they have in some areas. Although several laws and policies already exist to protect migrant workers, they haven't been properly enforced.

An overlooked issue is the elderly parents or grandparents left behind in villages, often without enough food or basic necessities. In some cases, children are also left behind to live in difficult conditions with elderly relatives who are unable to care for them properly.

The situation for children who travel with their parents to work sites like brick kilns can be extremely harsh, especially for girls who are more vulnerable to sexual exploitation. In one tragic case I reported, a teenage girl had migrated with her mother and brother. When her employer attempted to molest her, her brother stepped in to defend her and was killed. The girl was so traumatised that she would faint whenever the incident was discussed. Despite several efforts to seek justice, nothing had been achieved by the time of reporting.

Incidents like this emphasise the urgent need for widespread justice and development programs in villages where workers are at risk of falling into exploitative migrant labour. Providing land to the poorest families, helping them cultivate it, and ensuring better implementation of NREGA and other government programs are essential steps to prevent such tragedies.

In 1994, Dr Anurag Goel and Dr Sujata Goel who worked in a research lab in Delhi made a decision to trade the confines of urban Delhi life for Kodagu slowness. Heading towards South India, they landed on the piece of neglected land and decided to build it organically. 

The Goels have established a model that integrates agroecology to preserve the local flora and fauna. They are focused on growing coffee and nurturing the space organically to minimise harm to the land and ecosystem, both of which are currently at risk from chemical fertilisers.

We visited their farm in Madikeri to learn about the insights and experiences they've gathered over the past three decades.

Experience with ecology

You’ve been here for 30 years, but that wasn’t the initial plan. How has the experience of living with nature been, as researchers, as farmers, and as a couple?

Anurag: The first few years were tough. We didn’t know a single person in South India—we just came and settled. We started in a rented place before finding this land. Initially, we wanted a place with a house to make the move easier. But when we saw the wilderness and streams, we fell in love with this place, even though it had no infrastructure.

The first 5-7 years were challenging, especially financially. When you buy land, you have to survive off it. There was a small amount of income from cardamom growing here, which we replanted and supplemented with other crops. We introduced vanilla and diversified as much as we could while preserving the canopy, which was our goal—to find a balance between nature and agriculture.

Sujata: Being lab people, we faced many challenges. We knew nothing about growing cardamom, coffee, or pepper. Our focus was on species that thrive under rainforest canopies. We did a crash course with two excellent scientists from the Indian Institute of Spice Research. We toured Coorg, observing both the best and worst plantations, to understand how these crops are cultivated.

Wherever we went, they recommended numerous applications of pesticides and fungicides, warning that otherwise, we wouldn’t have a crop at the end of the season.

At first, we followed existing practices, but we soon realised that the beauty and fragility of this landscape were being destroyed by the agrochemicals being pumped into the fields. That’s when our journey took a turn towards organic farming.
_{- Dr Sujata Goel}

Anurag: Ironically, the scientists who initially told us that organic farming wouldn’t work for cardamom or coffee are now promoting it. We’ve proven it’s possible, and others are doing it too.

Were you afraid to make the big move?

Anurag: I wasn’t afraid of nature. In fact, I find city life, especially in Delhi, more intimidating. People are much more difficult to deal with. Also, you don't have a lot of crime here.

The more you interact with nature, the more familiar and less threatening it becomes. You realise that you’re more of a threat to wildlife than it is to you.

Sujata: Wildlife is smarter than us. They move away at night. We often take night walks, but wildlife isn’t always easy to spot because of our vibrations. We’ve never had accidents except when our dog once stuck his head into a porcupine den and got quills in his face. It’s rare, but we’ve never had any serious mishaps.

Has living close to nature changed your perception of life and how you interact with people?

Anurag: In some ways, people are antithetical to nature. Nature is harmonious, but people are complex, with intricate social structures and interactions.

Sujata: You become more accepting of things as they are. Initially, we tried to change things or make them more efficient. But over time, you realise that some things you can change, while others you must accept and deal with the consequences.

What’s the difference between organic farming and ecological farming?

Anurag: Organic farming typically involves open fields and the use of manure. Ecological farming, or agroecology, is more about fitting into a forest-like environment. You’re trying to harmonise with nature, whereas organic farming involves ploughing fields and adding compost in a more conventional setting.

Sujata: There are many approaches to moving away from conventional, chemical farming, all initially lumped under organic farming. But there are various dimensions, like biodynamic and natural farming, all focused on sustainability. Ecology comes into play when you align farming practices with natural cycles.

What changes have you noticed over the years? 

Anurag: We’ve allowed our forests and canopies to grow back, and as a result, we’ve noticed an increase in biodiversity. For example, there are now hundreds of Malabar gliding frogs and small gliding frogs living in the area, when before we would only see one or two at a time. We even built a tank near the house to help them grow and thrive.

The canopy cover has helped attract birds to our area, and we’re seeing more small animals like barking deer. This is likely because hunting isn’t as common anymore since young people have moved to cities and have less time for it.

But in the last 10 years, I’ve noticed a drastic decline in insects. In the past, we couldn’t leave the windows open because so many insects would fly in. Now, we can leave the door open all night and only a few insects will come in. 

I've noticed that the resident birds have increased, but I see fewer of the local migratory ones. For example, birds like the paradise flycatcher and the golden orioles. Several species used to come to this region after the monsoons and leave before the next monsoons, but now there are far fewer. I think there's a decline in the bird population overall in India. 

Sujata: One thing we've done is to leave some areas around guest houses more natural, letting native plants like Anthuriums grow. This keeps the landscaping low-maintenance and supports local biodiversity, which people can see up close near their residencies.

Anurag: We're also seeing changes related to climate change. Trees that used to flower at certain times are now off by a couple of months. For example, our avocado trees usually flower in October or November, but this year, they’re flowering a few months later. These might seem like small changes, but they could lead to bigger problems.

On sustainability

People often think that organic farming is just a hobby for the rich—something you do when you have other income and want to eat healthy. Is organic farming really viable? 

Anurag: This perception exists because there hasn’t been much research on organic farming in the last 50-100 years. Organic farming is better for the soil and more sustainable in the long run. Conventional farming, on the other hand, focuses on short-term goals and harms the soil and environment—just look at what happened in Punjab.

People are finding innovative ways to make organic farming viable. If you decide to switch to organic farming and just stop using urea without making other changes, your yields will drop, and you could face financial problems.

During the transition, you need to replace urea with compost, cow urine, cow dung, and other preparations like jeevamrut to feed the plants. All plants need the same nutrients, like nitrogen and minerals. The old perception of organic farming is wrong, and it's changing now.

Sujata: Over the years, we’ve visited many farms, not just in our country but around the world, and we’ve never seen an organic farm with poor yields. The crops are always abundant, whether it's in the UK, South America, Africa, or India. Organic farmers never complain about their yields—they only deal with challenges from extreme weather, which can affect the harvest. But that’s something we just have to live with.

One way to handle this is by diversifying crops to make farming more economically viable. Our farm is small, so to add value, we don't just sell our products as raw goods. If we grow coffee, we roast it and sell it as beans or powder. For cardamom, we grade, clean, and package it before selling. It takes a bit more work, but the added value makes up for the extra effort in terms of income.

I read in your book that animal husbandry is key to making organic farming sustainable. Can you explain why and what else can help?

Anurag: To have a successful organic farm, animals are essential because they complete the natural cycle. Animals like cows provide dung and urine, which are sources of nitrogen. Otherwise, you'd need to bring that in from outside. We keep cows and goats, and we used to have chickens, too, because their manure is also great.

Sujata: We have high-quality cow dung, which goes through our biogas composting system to make our own compost. It’s rich and smells pleasant, and that’s what we use to feed our plants. In the past, small farms always included some form of animal husbandry, but maintaining livestock is difficult, so many farms have moved away from it.

Can you share a couple of things you've learned here?

Anurag: One thing I've learned is about Trichoderma, a beneficial fungus that naturally exists in soils and helps fight pests. If you use fungicides, you kill Trichoderma, and when you spray pesticides, you kill everything in the soil. Once people realised how helpful Trichoderma is, they started growing and adding it to their farms. There's also another fungus called Beauveria that attacks insect pests. I once saw a large Hawk Moth with Beauveria growing on it. This fungus can break down insects and act as a natural pest repellent.

Sujata: There are many examples like this when you go into the biology of these systems. For instance, there are saprophytes, fungi that grow on decaying matter. They secrete enzymes that rapidly break down organic matter, sometimes overnight, making nutrients and minerals more available to plants.

We clear weeds only near cardamom or coffee plants but leave the rest. We don't uproot them; we just slash them so their roots stay intact. These roots provide biomass and host natural microbes like fungi and bacteria that break down organic matter and return it to the soil.

The entire ion exchange capacity, the nutrient availability, goes high. Just look at a forest—there’s no input from us, yet the trees are massive. How do they thrive? The ecosystem already has everything in place. Our goal is to fit our agriculture into this natural system, allowing us to be productive in a sustainable way.

Our goal is to fit our agriculture into this natural system, allowing us to be productive in a sustainable way.
_{- Dr Sujata Goel}

Takeaway

What key message do you want to leave with others?

Anurag: When individuals and groups come together, it’s much more rewarding. Otherwise, it's a constant struggle. Organic farmers don't get subsidies, while conventional farming does.

Sujata: It's crucial for organic farmers to build a network because we’re still a minority. People need to understand the importance of eliminating chemicals—they're harmful to wildlife and to us.

Many large-scale chemical farmers keep a small portion of their land organic for their own use, while the rest, grown conventionally, goes to market. I question their ethics, but people do what they feel they need to do. They know chemicals are a health risk, but unless a whole area commits to going chemical-free, toxins will keep spreading.

We’re fortunate that large-scale chemical farming hasn’t taken over here. Agrochemical use is minimal, with urea being the only exception in some conventional farms. Pesticides and fungicides are rarely used here, even during the monsoon season.

But heavy rainfall presents its own challenges. So, I ask you and anyone listening—what will it take for people to stop using toxins? Working together is crucial; nothing works in isolation.

We have the resources to spark a mass movement, but it needs to start with consumers. When they begin demanding better, cleaner food, change will follow. Unfortunately, most government policies seem focused on helping corporations take over agriculture, and that’s the sad truth.

As the sun rises over Srinivaspura, the air fills with the sweet aroma of ripening mangoes. This small town in Karnataka's Kolar district isn’t just another dot on the map; it's India’s Mango City. 

Decades of cultivating some of the world's finest mangoes have earned it this title. The town's name, derived from Srinivasa (a name for Vishnu) and pura (meaning town), reflects its rich cultural and historical roots.

Mango varieties

‍Srinivaspura boasts over 63 mango varieties, with Totapuri leading the pack, followed by Mallika, Alphonso, and Badami. These mangoes make their way to Europe and the Arab world. Totapuri mangoes are largely processed—80% go into juice, tetra packs, frozen fruit, and squash, while just 20% are eaten fresh. Thanks to the high pulp recovery, they are often blended with premium varieties for fragrance, offering a cost-effective solution.

Historically, mango cultivation has been the backbone of Srinivaspura’s economy. The APMC (Agricultural Produce Market Committee) has been vital in facilitating mango trade, offering a structured marketplace where farmers sell their produce.

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The role of rain

Rainfall plays a crucial role in ensuring a successful mango crop in Srinivaspura. Pre-flowering rain from November to January promotes healthy blossoms, while the southwest monsoon, from June to September, replenishes groundwater and keeps soil moisture levels high. Well-timed rains produce larger, juicier mangoes bursting with sweetness. They also help control pests and diseases that flourish in dry conditions.

A day at the market

Step into one of India’s busiest mango markets, where 600,000 quintals of fruit are traded annually. The peak season runs from mid-May to mid-June, with three main marketing yards handling the crop: one private, one run by APMC, and one operated by the mango growers’ association. 

Hundreds of trucks and tractors transport mangoes across India, reaching places like Andhra Pradesh, Rajasthan, Gujarat, Goa, Maharashtra, and Bengaluru.

Mango auctions

In the market, buyers inspect each mango before placing their bids, basing prices on the fruit’s size, variety, and quality. These varieties are typically available from April to June, though some may last beyond the mango season.

Packing process

• Sorting: Mangoes are sorted based on size, colour, and quality to ensure the best condition for consumers. Damaged or overripe fruits are removed, leaving only high-quality mangoes for packing.
• Packing: The sorted mangoes are packed in corrugated cardboard boxes or crates, designed to provide both ventilation and protection during transit. Each box contains mangoes of similar size and grade for consistency.
• Labelling: Packages are labelled with essential details like mango type, grade, weight, and sometimes the packaging date. Branding from exporters or local cooperatives may also be included.
• Distribution: Once packed, the mangoes are loaded onto trucks or other vehicles for delivery to local markets, across states, or even for export overseas.
• High-Volume Handling: The packing process in Srinivaspura is optimised to manage large quantities of mangoes during the peak season, ensuring the fruits arrive in excellent condition.

Showstopper: Banganapalli

Meet the Banganapalli mango—medium to large, golden yellow, and irresistibly delicious. 

• Geographical indication (GI): Recognised with a GI tag for its unique characteristics, this mango variety originates from Banaganapalle in the Kurnool district of Andhra Pradesh, India.
• Size & shape: Medium to large, typically weighing 350 to 400 grams, with an oblong shape and a slightly pointed base.
• Appearance: Smooth, thin skin with a golden-yellow colour and a slight sheen, sometimes dotted with small white spots.
• Flavour & popularity: Known for its sweet taste, smooth texture, and delightful aroma, the Banganapalli mango is a favourite both in India and globally.
• Alternate names: Also called Benishan or Banaganapalle.
• Exports: Due to its exceptional taste and long shelf life, Banganapalli mangoes are widely exported, playing a significant role in India's mango exports.
• Nutrition: Rich in vitamins A and C, they provide essential nutrients, antioxidants, and dietary fibre, supporting digestion and gut health.

Going organic

Traders in the Srinivaspura market voiced concerns about the practicality of going fully organic. They cite the lack of government support in educating farmers on organic practices. Additionally, the higher costs associated with organic cultivation could reduce public demand.

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Need for a factory

Traders also point out the need for a local factory. Without one, they face difficulties in sending their products to states like Maharashtra, where processing plants exist.

A factory would process mangoes into pulp, juice, dried slices, pickles, and jams, extending the fruit's shelf life and reducing post-harvest losses. This would not only increase profits but also boost the local economy by attracting businesses and creating demand for transportation, packaging, and marketing services. By producing packaged and branded mango products, a factory could help Srinivaspura tap into both domestic and international markets.

Amrit Lal, a Bhil tribal farmer from Bhundri village in Rajasthan's Banswara district, faced a harsh reality when prolonged drought forced him to work as a migrant labourer in distant cities. His farm, neglected in his absence, deteriorated. What was meant to be a temporary shift seemed to become permanent, despite the exploitative conditions and Amrit's dissatisfaction with urban work.

During a brief visit home, members of the voluntary organisation Vaagdhara approached Amrit. They offered support if he wanted to return to rural life. Amrit welcomed this opportunity and seized it.

Revival of farm

A few years later, Amrit's two-acre farm is thriving with diverse crops, particularly vegetables and fruits. He's known for his dedication to natural farming and tree planting, inspiring local environmental efforts. His work earned him the Ummedpur Lodh Environmental Award. Both Amrit and his wife Surta are happy with their return to rural life and are determined to continue improving their farm.

Vaagdhara's role

Amrit is one of many farmers Vaagdhara has helped transition from migrant labour back to sustainable rural livelihoods. Jayesh Joshi, the coordinator of Vaagdhara, said the organisation’s efforts focus on rediscovering and strengthening the traditional food and farming systems of Bhil and related tribal communities.

Vaagdhara works with tribal communities in about 100 rural settlements across Rajasthan, Madhya Pradesh, and Gujarat. When Vaagdhara began its work two decades ago, the organisation invested time in understanding the local people, their strengths, and their needs. 

Historical challenges

Participatory research revealed that the tribal communities were familiar with a rich variety of crops, including 26 cereals (such as millets), 28 roots and tubers, 40 vegetables, and 45 fruits. Their traditional farming system was marked by circularity, minimising waste, and maintaining soil fertility. After spending a lot of time with these communities, activists realised that their problems weren't because they were doing something wrong, instead, were caused by outside influences that had damaged their traditional ways of doing things.

Colonial rule and local kingdoms exploited these communities. Despite revolts led by respected figures like Govind Guru, the sustainable traditional system continued to erode.

Independence brought some relief, but new bureaucracies often misunderstood and undervalued traditional systems, equating them with backwardness. They imposed technologies like those of the Green Revolution, which were unsuitable and led to debt, further reducing the communities’ ability to cope with droughts, and forcing many into exploitative migrant labour.

Promoting tradition

In consultation with local communities, Vaagdhara sought to revive the strengths of traditional farming systems, including soil conservation practices and mixed farming. Scientific analysis confirmed the nutritional richness of the leafy and other vegetables traditionally used by the tribal communities, increasing the confidence in their time-honoured practices.

Saving traditional seeds of various crops, including millets, is a key focus for these communities. Over the years, this work has gained momentum as people realise its importance. This June, the efforts peaked with a seeds festival, held across about 90 decentralised meetings in different village clusters. Farmers brought their saved traditional seeds to these gatherings, discussing the benefits and features of different varieties and exchanging seeds with one another. 

While all the farmers were enthusiastic, women were especially excited since they have traditionally been responsible for seed-saving and possess extensive knowledge about it. Many participants suggested making the seeds festival an annual event.

Earlier, a traditional food festival was organised with the active involvement of women and children. Held at the village level, these meetings highlighted the high nutritional quality of traditional foods and the need to protect them from the onslaught of junk food. Recipes combining taste and nutrition were shared, and dishes were cooked on the spot, delighting the children in particular.

The spread of natural farming has been crucial in reviving traditional farming strengths, significantly reducing costs and improving the quality of produce.

Empowering women

Women have responded positively to these initiatives. Empowerment groups, or saksham samoohs, have been established in several villages to advance sustainable livelihoods for women. Kanchan, the coordinator of one such group in Nagli Sera village (Banswara district), says they meet regularly to discuss how to advance village development collectively. Susheela, a group member, notes that apart from salt and edible oil, they meet all their food needs within the village. Kanku Bai is particularly skilled in identifying and saving various seeds.

This movement is part of a broader vision rooted in the concept of gram swaraj, which seeks to make villages as self-reliant as possible in meeting their food, farming, and other needs. The approach traces its origins to Mahatma Gandhi’s emphasis on self-reliant rural communities during the freedom movement. Organisations like Vaagdhara are now taking this forward in contemporary contexts by emphasising natural farming, mixed cropping with millets, fruits, and vegetables, and the use of non-cultivated foods.

This approach not only provides more nutritious and safe food but also reduces farmers’ costs, shielding them from debt. Mixed cropping and non-cultivated foods are also vital assets during droughts. This system is well-suited for climate change adaptation and, with its focus on reducing fossil fuel use, increasing tree cover, and improving soil organic content, also supports climate change mitigation.